A MELODIC adhan rings through the air of Isfahan in Central Iran as we stroll into Naqsh-e Jahan Square. The sun is high and the Islamic call for worship drifts north across the old square that stretches from the sixteenth-century Shah Mosque to the old bazaar at its northern edge. The call then spreads sideways to Ali Qapu Palace and Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah on the eastern and western sides.

“As followers of Shia Islam, we pray three times a day,” says Farnood, our guide in Isfahan. “Unlike the Sunni – who pray five times a day – we answer the call to prayer in the morning, at noon and in the evening. This means people have time for their daily tasks.”

We gaze at Shah Mosque, which is also known as Imam Mosque, impressed by both the size and richness of its massive blue dome and the colours of its mosaic designs. Turning away from it, we come face to face with the Ali Qapu Palace (the Residence of shah or the king) on our left. The six-storey palace, with slender columns and a gigantic elevated terrace, stands proudly opposite Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah across the maydan. At the square’s northern end, the dome and arch of the old bazaar beckons travellers to browse for Persian carpets, copper pots and trays, herbs and spices and miniature paintings.

Known as Persia in the pre-Islamic period, Iran is on the bucket list of most travellers.

Unfortunately, the violence in the Middle East and United Nation sanctions on Iran’s suspicious nuclear programme have kept the former Persian Empire off the tourist map. That ban has now been partly lifted and visitors are slowly making their way to Iran. Thai Airways International has responded to this curiosity and now operates four flights weekly between Bangkok and Tehran.

Iran has a great deal to share with visitors and Isfahan, quite aside from its magnificent culture and architecture, is reputed for its chicken kebabs.

Just 350 kilometres south of Tehran, Isfahan (sometimes spelt Esfahan) is an historic and beautiful city teeming with Persian architecture and gardens. The city was twice the capital of the Persian Kingdom and the seat of the Safavid dynasty for 138 years, from 1598 to 1736. The Safavid made Isfahan the world’s most beautiful city, leading French poet Renier, who came during its heyday in the 16th century to write “Isfahan is half the world” in honour of its unmatched beauty.

Five centuries later, Isfahan is still beautiful. At every turn, the square dazzles with Persian architecture and lush gardens. The age-old mosques, the Persian carpets, the women in chadors and the frescoes on the palace walls spell out the romance of medieval Persia.

Farnood leads us into the dome of Shah Mosque where blue, yellow and pink mosaics featuring geometric designs, floral motifs and calligraphy underline the skill of the 16th-century artists and artisans who created them. The pride of the Persian design is probably the acoustic properties and reflections at the central point under the dome.

“The Imam could speak with a subdued voice and still be heard clearly by everyone inside the building,” says Farnood, as he steps into the central point and chants “Allahu akbar allahu akbar” – Allah is greatest, God is greatest.

His resounding chant, reflected outwards from the dome, sees many visitors turn towards the sound.

We follow a group of French tourists to Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah. Shah Abbas I established this Mosque on the eastern side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square. The Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah has plenty to say about the quality of Persian architecture.

Under the dome, surrounded by a mishmash of tourists babbling away in Chinese, French, English and German, I sit on the floor and lean against the tiled wall trying to make sense of the complexity of the mosaics on the ceiling. Unlike the Shah Mosque, which was built by the king for the common man, the Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah was especially constructed for the royal family and is connected to the palace by an underground tunnel.

When evening falls, Naqsh-e Jahan Square is even more atmospheric.

Iranians of all ages sit on the mats and munch snacks as they watch visitors take rides in the horse-drawn carriages. Many of them greet us, thanking us for visiting their country.

A five-minute walk along Sepah Street takes us to Chehel Sotoun – the palace of 40 columns. Set in the middle of a park at the far end of a long pool, it was built by Shah Abbas II and boasts 20 slender ribbed wooden pillars that rise to a superb wooden ceiling with crossbeams and exquisite inlay work. The 20 columns are reflected in the pool, hence the “lucky forty”. The palace houses a beautiful collection of frescoes depicting both historical battles and warm welcomes.

Isfahan is split in half by the Zayandeh River and its banks are connected by six historic bridges, each a destination in its own right. The riverbed is dry most of the year, but the banks are flanked by leafy parks. In the cool morning air, the bridges come to life as residents walk or cycle back and forth. Others just sit in the gardens and watch the time going by.

At night the Si-o-Seh and Khaju bridges take on a life of their own, their illuminated walkways drawing Iranians to socialise with music, hookahs and herbal tea. For visitors from far afield, this is a visual feast.

IF YOU GO

– Thai Airways International operates direct flights between Bangkok and Tehran. Isfahan is about an hour by plane from Tehran. Visitors with Thai passports can ask for a visa upon arrival at Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport.

– Watch a video of Isfahan at http://www.NationMultimedia.com/travel.