LIKE MANY THAIS, I pictured the Sultanate of Oman as a hot, arid country, an austere nation dominated by the desert, where visitors would spend their time riding camels or driving up and down sand dunes. Instead, I find a land of endless limestone mountains dotted with fertile plateaux of colourful flowers and succulent fruit, and a rich history just waiting to be discovered.

Fruit and roses are grown on terraced plantations. 

Whisked away from Muscat airport, I travel for two hours up a well-maintained road to Al Jabal Al Akhdar. Known as the Green Mountain, it is part of the Al Hajar range in Ad Dakhiliyah Governorate and reaches 2,000 metres above sea level.

The weather is surprisingly cool up here on this barren terraced highland – a very pleasant 25 degrees Celsius – though the strong breeze makes it feel colder.

Geologists believe that, some 80 million years ago, the spectacular peaks of Al Jabal Al Akhdar were up-folded following a tumultuous collision of the Arabian and Eurasian tectonic plates in the late Cretaceous Period. As a result of that cataclysmic upheaval, massive sections of ocean mantle and continental crust were thrust high above the land, creating the Al Hajar mountain range.

Homes in the mountaintop village of Al Aqur are fashioned from stones and mud. 

Later in the day I join a trek to the ancient villages on the fertile Saiq Plateau, stopping frequently to admire the spectacular panorama of the rugged mountainous landscapes juxtaposed with green terraced plantations of fruits and roses.

The two-hour walk along the three-kilometre path starts from Al Aqur on the upper plateau, an ancient abandoned hamlet built many centuries ago with local limestone blocks and mud. The guide leads our group into a 700-year-old house that has been carefully maintained to allow visitors to see how folk lived in times past.

“The villagers used the stones and mud to build their houses and walls and the terraces and steps for their plantations. They used mud to render the stone blocks and more recent residents added cement. But there were problems with water and electricity and no hospitals or schools for the children. The government told them if they moved from here, they would get free land. Today the only resident is a 74-year-old man who refuses to move,” the guide explains.

“Some of the walls are painted with a three-coloured flag to guide the way for tourists. This is a very fertile area and the villagers have planted damask roses, garlic, olives and pomegranate. The villages are now served by water through the al falaj system, which is Oman’s typical irrigation system.”

Al Imam BilArab bin Sultan Al Y`aribi built Jabreen Castle in 1670. 

Our group slowly skirts the stone mountainside to a waterfall and rows of terraced plantations, where dates, pomegranates, pears, grapes and walnuts grow alongside the fragrant roses.

Lower down are the villages of Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah. The ambience here is livelier and the earth-toned houses and buildings are adorned with beautifully carved wood doors, mostly imported from India. These villages are inhabited and the guide reminds us to give priority to privacy, to walk in silence and not to snap pictures of local women.

While Al Jabal Al Akhdar is famous for the beauty of its landscape, the tranquil town of Bahla has a stunning showcase of historical sites. Standing behind a palm grove, the luxury compound of Jabreen Castle takes visitors back to the 17th century after the old capital moved from Nizwa to Jabreen.

Constructed in 1670 by Imam Bil’arab bin Sultan Al Yaribi from stones and mud, the castle brought together the designs from the most beautiful palaces in that period and served both as home to the Imam and his family as well as a bastion during times of war.

Spread over five floors, it was also a learning centre of astrology, medicine and Islamic law. Inside there are 55 functional rooms and the Imam’s tomb. An al falaj irrigation system runs through the middle of the complex.

Visitors to the castle were formally received in the Sun and Moon Room.

Many of the ceilings are painted with floral motifs and Islamic inscriptions that pay tribute to the skills of Omani craftsmanship. Among the highlights is the Sun and Moon room, where the Imam would welcome important visitors for discussions and consultations. Its ceiling is decorated with unique Islamic calligraphy and a panel of 14 windows creates airflow throughout the year.

Next door is the Imam Protection room with four secret hideouts designed to protect the Imam and his family during an attack. The ground floor meanwhile is home to a cave-like date store, where the palm fruit was fermented.

We unfortunately arrive too late to visit Bahla Fort. On the Unesco World Heritage List since 1988, it is an immense fortress constructed of unbaked mud bricks on stone foundations. Adjacent is the Friday Mosque, which owes its prosperity to the Banu Nebhan tribe, who dominated the central Omani region from the 12th to the end of the 15th century.

Bahla Fort, now partially in ruins, was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1988.

We also stop at the Nizwa Souq, a popular market offering a wide range of unique handcrafts and silver jewellery. Here elaborate curved daggers jostle with copper ware, coffee-pots, swords and pottery as well as glittering silver accessories.

We end our trip to the Sultanate in Muscat where we visit the extravagant Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Built from 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone as well as materials from China, Italy and Iran and costing US$130 million (Bt4.47 billion), it was built by Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said and took more than six years to complete.

The men’s prayer hall in the mosque has a magnificent chandelier with 600,000 glittering Swarovski crystals. 

The men’s prayer hall is home to the world’s second biggest chandelier weighing eight tons and adorned with 600,000 Swarovski crystals and 24-carat gold plating. The floor is equally as opulent, covered with a red Persian carpet composed of 1,700 million knots, which took about 27 months to weave and boasts 28 different colours made from plants or natural dyes, in varying gradations.

The writer travelled courtesy of Oman Air and the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort.

IF YOU GO

>> Oman Air offers daily direct flights between Muscat and Bangkok serviced by Boeing 787 Dreamliners. Three flights a day will be available from June 7. Flying time is slightly over six hours. Check fares are http://www.OmanAir.com.

>> For more details about tourist destinations, visit http://www.OmanTourism.gov.om.