Posh Italian luxury brand Dolce and Gabbana recently demonstrated that Islam’s strictures on women’s attire don’t have to curtail a sense of fashion, and three Thai labels have more proof if needed.

D&G’s gorgeous black and golden-beige abaya (cloak) and hijab (headscarf and veil) were a hit in much of the Arab world. Now – with so many Middle Eastern tourists visiting Thailand – Theatre, Tube Gallery and Tango have produced magnificent outfits for Muslim men and women replete with their typically immaculate handcrafting.

Sirichai Daharanont, who founded Theatre 30 years ago, says his Middle Eastern clients are “big spenders” – “Sometimes a single sales slip can top Bt100,000!”

“We’ve seen them more frequently over the past three or four years. Every time they come to Bangkok they’ll drop into the shop because they know we’ll always have something new for them.”

Sirichai doesn’t design clothes specifically for Middle Eastern customers, “but I think they like my style, which uses high-quality fabrics in loose, long A-line dresses with lots of glittery handcrafting and embroidery.

“These are suitable for any occasion, casual or formal, and both the standard size and oversize models have a comfortable shape. And, since the clothing tends to be quite loose, mothers might buy several outfits for their teenage daughters.”

In public, Islam’s devout female followers usually wear a loose black robe covering the body from head to toe, leaving only the hands exposed and sometimes the face. Underneath is another garment reaching from neck to toe that’s revealed in private company or when the women assemble by themselves separately from the men. Unlike the necessarily plain abaya, this dress can be quite colourful and elaborate.

“My Thai female customers like this style too,” Sirichai says, “not for any specific purpose but just in case they have a special party to attend or even for when they go to the seaside. The dresses are easygoing, yet glamorous and coquettish, with lace details or embroidery along the hem and dramatic draping.”

Sirichai adorns the men similarly, in shirts and jackets with scintillating details in the fabric or in the embellishments.

Saksit Pisalasupongs and Phisit Chongnarangsin of Tube Gallery ship attire to leading stores in the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia. They’ve been building up a customer base in the Middle East ever since participating in a trade fair in France years ago, says Phisith.

“The fashion market is quite distinct and targeted by many high-end designer brands. Arabian women need very specific clothing – loose yet sophisticated in the crafting, with semi-couture styles for eveningwear. They like the darker shades like black, dark blue and purple, as well as gold.

“In some countries the gown must be long enough to cover the feet, but they’re still surprisingly fashionable and up-to-date on seasonal trends. When European women started wearing midi skirts, the women in the Middle East did too – whereas Thai women will have to wait another season or two.”

Though Tube Gallery leans towards edgy ideas, Pisith says he normally includes long dresses in his eveningwear collections. “The design shouldn’t focus too much on the petite figure because every women is concerned about her shape.”

Tube Gallery’s current autumn-winter line, “Passage through the Lost Town”, takes its cues from the simpler lifestyle and architecture of Luang Prabang in Laos. It features an embroidered push-up pattern to create dramatic bulges. The luxury elements include not just rich texturing but also accessories such as a large golden belt that can be matched with a golden tank-top evening dress. The overall look is simple in structure but luxurious and refined in the artistic details.

Also attracting buyers from the Middle East is 20-year-old Tango, which has a franchise boutique in Al Ain, Abu Dhabi. Kanvara Pechdasada’s meticulous craftsmanship in exotic leather deserves much of the credit, says her daughter Nongwinee, who’s a rising designer.

Tango’s current winter collection features intricate hand-embroidering and a bold use of ribbons and one-off pieces such as python-skin bags. Rusty gold predominates, straight out of a Gustav Klimt painting, complemented by contrasting bright pastels.

“Our bespoke leather handbags and shoes became popular here and in Japan first and then in the Middle East,” Nongwinee says. “With a partner and a boutique there we’re able to understand Arabia women’s tastes and preferences better.

“They like expensive and high-quality materials, like exotic skins, and a fine attention to detail. Tango’s original designs and the sense of ‘wearable art’ match their tastes. The women want to look distinguished, so when they take off their modest covering robes – at teatime, for example – they want something outstanding that reflects their personality, maybe crystal embroidery.

“We also make specific adjustments on request, such as the length of the strap or a larger handbag,” she says. “We make two versions of the dresses – a shorter one for Thais with maybe a wider split-cut and longer one for Middle Eastern women.”