NEW FOR THE sporty types from Calvin Klein Platinum is the capsule “Floral” collection, which harks back to the brand’s 1990s runway shows but adds flowers to the athletically minded unisex street wear.

The print-adorned cotton fabric ensures lightness in the sweater, trousers, bomber jacket, hoodie and or jump-leg pants and the matching bag and shoes. Black and white are the prominent tones.

Meanwhile the autumn-winter line has arrived, looking decidedly rebellious and subversive, but also sensual. The favourite Platinum staples are re-imagined for today’s generation of non-conformists.

The men’s array has been expanded – and exaggerated and intensified. It fuses ’90s minimalism, sporty elements and punk details into a modern, layered and unexpected “uniform”. A palette of dusty powder blue, deep Bordeaux and dark forest merges with the signature black, navy, grey melange and chalk, often clashing unexpectedly in fresh, graphic looks.

The circular ring snaps includes multiple-element zip detailing throughout and the styling is multi-layered. There are zip-up bomber jackets in wool or leather and stripe-trimmed cardigans to be worn over zipped high-neck tops. A wool overcoat in a jacquard pattern looks great on top and slim track pants can be tucked into lace-up athletic boots.

For the girls, Platinum reaches a little further back, to the ’80s, for a “soft punk” look in pale blue and powder grey and dusty pink, with surprise pops of crimson or crystal blue, all punctuated by crisp black and white.

The jacquard fabrics are bold and graphic-laden. Macro grids clash with distorted zigzags, creating a rush of movement and texture. The smooth nappa leather (synthetic napa) is punctured with silver grommets. Stretch viscose is given a tough edge and adorned with embroidered holes.

The styling is layered, with skinny knits, plaited-rib viscose or plush cashmere in sweaters worn under dresses or separately. The top layers have the illusion of being recklessly slashed when the zippers that wrap around the body are left open. The outerwear layers are luxe in soft shearling, alpaca and cashmere.

Among the accessories, the boundaries of duality are tested amid architectural lines and sinuous curves. Minimalist shades are enlivened by a brushstroke print and boldly amplified tones. Supple leather is interposed by crisp, contrasting edges and high-shine hardware.