“Whale watching is a life-changing experience,” says the friendly man from Hertz Rental Car at Nelson Airport as he helps me set up “Becky”, our speaking GPS device. “The whales are spectacular when they are breaching, hopping, sailing and tailing,” he tells us and his enthusiasm is catching. We can’t wait to spot our first whale. Two days later, when we arrive in Kaikuora on the east coast of South Island, we discover that the life-changing experience starts with a plea for mercy. We miss the boat by just seconds and it seems that we are going to miss the whales too.

“Please, everyone we’ve met in the last two days insists that whale watching is a must. It’s a life changing experience,” I implore the staff of Whale Watch. “Back home in Thailand, we don’t have whales and the biggest animal we’ve ever seen is an elephant. We cannot leave New Zealand without seeing a whale fluking.”

The lady behind the counter regards us sympathetically and turns back to her computer before running her fingers through the reservations. She takes a while to check the bookings and makes a telephone call. We have only a half a day in Kaikuora, and it’s looking more and more like our whale-watching trip is a write-off. Then Lady Luck gives a broad smile.

“Two people haven’t confirmed their bookings,” she tells us. “I will put you two in the first boat tomorrow morning. Don’t miss the boat twice.”

We didn’t mean to be late but the scenery here in New Zealand, not to mention the fine food and wine, made us linger a little too long on the road. We have only one week in South Island and we are determined to do as much as possible, from paddling in the clear turquoise crystal waters to strolling around Mt Cook Valley. Whale watching, of course, is also part of our road trip around South Island.

Nestled on the island’s rugged east coast, Kaikoura is the unofficial whale watching capital of New Zealand. In the waters off this peninsula, a complex marine system provides an abundantly rich habitat for marine mammals and seabirds, making it an ideal place for getting close to nature. Legend has it that the Ngati Kuri people, as the Maori tribe who founded Kaikoura are known, rode with the mythical Paikea on the back of a white whale from Hawaii to New Zealand. Whale Watch is also run by the Maori and has been taking tourists out to sea for almost 30 years. Kaikoura, we are told, is the best place to watch whales fluking, as the action of lifting its tail is called.

Right now though, we still have a few hours in Kaikoura before the sky goes completely dark. We quickly check into Hapuku Tree Houses and Lodge – a stylish eco-friendly resort. Perched 10 metres above the ground in the canopy of a native Manuka grove, our Tree House is designed as a contemporary complement to the environment. The exterior is clad in native woods and copper shingles and large windows bring the tree canopy right into the bedroom.

We leave our lodge with a list of places we want to explore and again are grateful for deciding on a self-drive trip. Rather than being rushed on and off a tour bus, we’ve been able to discover New Zealand at our own pace. From Nelson on the northern tip of South Island, for example, we’ve come to Kaikoura via Havelock and Marlborough. The small seaport of Havelock is known as the mussel capital of the world, while Marlborough is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc.

Kaikoura itself, in the Maori tongue, means “meal of crayfish” and that prompts us to ask “Becky” to guide us to Nins Bin, a roadside eatery specialising in freshly cooked lobster. Owner Ricky, who’s been in business since 1977, catches his lobster the old way – by spearfishing. We order a decent-sized crayfish and savour the taste of Kaikoura.

The next morning, we’re the first to arrive at Whaleway Station and check in for Whale Watch Kaikoura tour. As the lady said, you cannot miss the boat twice.

Back in 1987, at a time when the Maori were finding it impossible to earn a decent living, Ngati Kuri leader like Bill Solomon looked at the Pacific and hoped the whale could bring prosperity to his people. The tales of breaching, hopping, sailing and fluking whales quickly spread and today business is thriving.

Our boat is packed with tourists from all corners of the world. We’re informed that beneath the Kaikoura sea is a canyon – a giant habitat for a giant creature.

“Roughly put together in a U-shape, Kaikoura Canyon is about 60 kilometres long and up to 1,200 metres deep,” says our guide.

The sea is very rough. From time to time the Maori “whale spotter” dips a stethoscope of sorts into the sea to listen to the whales, helping the crews locate the giant creatures. An hour passes and sensitive stomachs are reacting badly to the churning waves but there’s no sign of a whale never mind any fluking.

“Whale spotting is a matter of luck too,” says the guide. “On a trip we might spot five or six whales, while on another we see little more than a wandering albatross.”

“Just wait and be patient” I whisper to myself, determined to keep sea sickness at bay. It doesn’t look good though and it seems that the Asian elephant will remain the largest mammal I’ve ever seen.

Then, just as the captain is just about to sheer away, the miracle happens.

“Eleven o’clock!” somebody yells.

Like something out of “Moby Dick”, a massive sperm whale emerges from the water. The 15-ton behemoth sends up a v-shaped spout of water from its blowhole, flips, and flukes as it dives into the depths of Kaikoura Canyon.

A life-changing experience indeed.

IF YOU GO

+Thai Airways International flies between Bangkok and Auckland. A Thai driving license, with the name is English, can be used to hire a car.

+Driving in New Zealand is easy. Just stick to the speed limit, and follow the rules of the road.

Known in the Maori tongue as Aotearoa or “the land of the long white cloud”, New Zealand – and especially North Island – enjoys a wonderfully temperate climate even in the winter.

From now to September, winter in the Southern hemisphere, is the best time for “tropical plants” like Thais to escape the wet season at home and revel in the exceptional landscape for which the country is justifiably famous. Adding to the pleasure is the fact that the summer’s pricey attractions are quiet and the ticket prices low so you get to experience a range of highlights that the summer holidaymaker never sees.

The best way to explore New Zealand is through a self-drive holiday. With postcard-perfect views all around, renting a car allows you to enjoy scenic stops on your own terms.

One of the most unforgettable driving routes on North Island is the Pacific Coast Highway, which as the name suggests, takes you along the Pacific Ocean for 1,170 kilometres from Auckland to the eastern port of Napier. The trip offers majestic coastal views and several must-stop locations for you to take photos to share with your friends.

Jumpstart your trip from Auckland on State Highway 2, connecting to State Highway 25 towards The Coromandel. This region is a centre of tourist attractions and outdoor activities much loved by Kiwis.

Here are some of most famous stops for you to visit.

Cathedral Cove – a symbol |of The Coromandel

Put Cathedral Cove on your bucket list when you visit The Coromandel, as this is one of the most photographed locations. An arched cavern standing majestically against a backdrop of white sandy beach and clear water, it makes for a distinctive sight. There are two ways to get here, by foot or by boat. The roundtrip walk takes around one-and-a-half hours but the stunning view is worth every step. Otherwise you can enjoy Cathedral Cove from a sea kayak, which is a highly recommended activity while you’re in New Zealand.

Hot Water Beach – a natural hot spa on the beach

A 10-minute drive from Cathedral Cove, naturally heated mineral water bubbles up from within the earth to emerge through golden sand at the appropriately named Hot Water Beach. The air temperature may be cool in winter, but the water is always hot. Bring a spade or shovel, or rent one from a store, to dig your own spa pool in the sand when the tide is low while enjoying the sea view and listening to the ocean waves.

Once your batteries are recharged, head back on the road to State Highway 25 for the Bay of Plenty. This region is home to spectacular beaches and New Zealand’s only active marine volcano.

Mount Maunganui – second-most-shared spot on Instagram

Mount Maunganui has long been the Kiwis’ favourite beach town and was listed as the second-most-shared spot on Instagram in 2015. If you want a legendary shot of the town, take a hike up “Mauao”, a peak 232 metres above sea level. The walk to the top takes around 30-45 minutes depending on your fitness. Huge views of the harbour, beach and Pacific Ocean will make the effort totally worthwhile.

White Island – thrills on a marine volcano

Only 87 kilometres from Mount Maunganui to the south towards Whakatane, you will reach the start of a journey to White Island, New Zealand’s only active marine volcano. Sign up for a walking tour of the island, which is about two kilometres in diameter and rises to 321 meters above sea level. Your experienced guide will lead you close to roaring steam vents, bubbling pits of mud and hot volcanic streams with a distinct smell of sulphur.

Gisborne – the first and the longest

Further south on State Highway 35 is the East Cape, the easternmost region of New Zealand. Gisborne, the largest settlement in the region, is home to “the first and the longest” spots for you to check in and share with your friends.

East Cape lighthouse – watch the sun’s first rays of the day

Gisborne is the first city in the world to see the sun each morning and there is no better place to watch the first light than at the historic East Cape lighthouse which stands 154 metres above sea level at the easternmost point of the country. The trek to the lighthouse is all uphill but worth every one of the 700 steps as you’ll be treated to an unbeatable view of the rugged surrounding coastline.

Tolaga Bay Wharf – New Zealand’s longest wharf

Another 114 kilometres down the road from the East Cape lighthouse is Tolaga Bay Wharf, stretching 660 metres in length, which makes it the longest wharf in the country. Allow half an hour to walk to the end and back and remember to take your swimsuit. Adrenaline junkies can jump off at the end of the wharf and swim back to the shore. This place is also an ideal spot for catching fish.

Hawke’s Bay – fine wine |and tasty food

Hawke’s Bay is a famous wine-growing region and also home to New Zealand’s oldest operating winery. With a climate similar to Bordeaux, the region is one of the country’s leading producers of wine, especially reds. More than 30 wineries are open for wine tasting with many offering restaurant-dining of fresh, locally grown ingredients.

Napier – a place where |time stands still

After a devastating 1931 earthquake destroyed buildings in the centre of Napier, the town was rebuilt in “Spanish Mission” and Art Deco architectural styles that focused on geometric shapes. This resulted in Napier becoming one of the cities with the highest concentration of Art Deco buildings in the world. Some iconic buildings you shouldn’t miss taking selfies against are the T&G Building and the National Tobacco Company Building. The time you spend absorbing the vintage beauty of the buildings will make you feel as if time is standing still.

IF YOU GO

Thai Airways International operates flight from/to Bangkok and Auckland – a gateway New Zealand’s North Island.