At Sensi, no sense goes neglected

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  • Ravioli Creme Brulee
  • Cuisine magician Stefano Merlo holds court at the long chef’s table that has place of honour in front of his kitchen.
  • Beef Tartare
  • Steamed Sea Bass and Baby Zucchini

At Sensi, no sense goes neglected

tasty July 21, 2018 01:00

By Khetsirin Pholdhampalit
The Nation Weekend

3,532 Viewed

The Italian restaurant’s new team tickles with surprises – including spice-infused napkins

FIVE-YEAR-OLD ITALIAN restaurant Sensi on Bangkok’s Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 17 is under new management and has a fresh kitchen team revamping the menu, with the focus on the engaging “chef’s table” style of dining.

Set in a house in a soi quiet enough to make you forget about nearby bustling Sathorn, Sensi retains its homey feel indoors and out, but the way the tables are set establishes that you’re about to indulge in fine dining.

“There’s still an a-la-carte menu, but every table can be a chef’s table, letting the chef create a tailor-made meal for that ‘personal touch’ experience,” says Pierre Metz, one of the new co-owners as of the beginning of the year.

“We also offer seven- and nine-course carta bianca menus,’ he says, translating “carte blanche” into Italian. “That means the chef will offer innovative and surprising dishes to create an exciting culinary journey.”

Chef Stefano is seen at work in the kitchen.

New executive chef Stefano Merlo worked at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Japan and the triple-Michelin-star Le Calandre in Italy. In Bangkok he’s been in charge at JoJo at the St Regis and Rossini’s at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit.

At Sensi, the best place to watch him at work is sitting at the long table set out in front of the kitchen, which can seat up to 10 diners.

“I follow traditional Italian recipes, but the approach is a bit contemporary,” says Merlo, who hails from Padova, Italy, near Venice. “A lot of Thais visit Italy and when they come back they want the original flavours – the same way these dishes have always tasted. There is no fusion food here and you can always identify what it is you’re tasting.”

During my visit, Merlo offers both a-la-carte dishes and a few carta bianca surprises. Carta bianca costs Bt2,690 for seven courses and Bt3,490 for nine.

Seafood Tartare with Gin Lemon 

The first appetiser is Seafood Tartare with Gin Lemon – a scallop and a Sicilian red prawn marinated simply with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. The gin lemon is freezing, as intended.

Beef Tartare 

The restaurant’s name alludes to the human senses, and the nose gets the biggest treat from the Beef Tartare. It has black-truffle shavings on top and rests on a bark sheet. The earthy aroma is wonderful. On the side is a steamed rolled-up napkin infused with spices and sprinkled with shards of cinnamon, star anise, lemon, orange and berry juniper.

“The idea,” says the chef, “is to wipe your hands with it so that when you grab a morsel of beef, you inhale the pleasant odour from your hands along with the distinctive smell of truffle.”

Beef Tongue and Salad 

Merlo says his Beef Tongue (Bt560) is a traditional northern Italian dish and typically enjoyed at Sunday family feasts. The tongue is boiled for about five hours and then dressed with a salsa verde of parsley emulsion and capers. It comes with a small salad in balsamic vinegar dressing.

Risotto Seafood 

The Risotto Seafood is delightfully colourful. The white plate is sprayed with black squid ink, yellow saffron and red beetroot and the rice is in shades of black from the squid ink, green from spring onion and orange from lobster bisque. A scallop and mussel and chunks of lobster and sea bass rest on top.

Cappelli alla Amatriciana 

The pasta and bread are made on the premises. Cappelli alla Amatriciana (Bt480) has the little hat-shaped noodles stuffed with a classic

Italian pasta sauce based on guanciale (cured pork cheek), pecorino cheese, tomato and basil.

Steamed Sea Bass and Baby Zucchini

The Steamed Sea Bass is an arty entr้e presented on a white plate on which the outline of a fish has been drawn in squid ink. The fillet is seasoned with vanilla oil and capped with thin slices of baby zucchini arranged to resemble fish scales, with zucchini flowers forming the fin and tail. Seafood foam and baby zucchini confit on the side further enhance the flavourful adventure.

Turbot Fish and Seaweed 

In Turbot Fish and Seaweed, the fish fillet is wrapped in a sheet of wakame seaweed and draped with three strings of seaweed spaghetti, the turbot’s fins and orange sauce. You also get three morsels of potato puree under fried seaweed.

Venison Steak with Pomegranate Sauce 

The eyes are getting spoiled now. Venison Steak is the most visually stunning of all, with pomegranate sauce and beetroot puree engineered to look like blood splatters.

A fantastic meal can suitably end with Ravioli Creme Brulee, which is seasoned with blood-orange juice and jam.

Ravioli Creme Brulee

Co-owner Metz, who is also a founding partner in the Bangkok restaurants Appia and Peppina, says he’s next planning a “tavola” concept for Sensi – available only for four-seat tables Mondays through Thursdays. In Italy, he says, when Mama wants the kids at the dinner table, she hollers out, “Tavola!” (In other words, “Table! Now!”).

“The price is set for Bt4,000 per table for the food only and the meal will have surprise dishes. I want to show young people that good Italian food isn’t as expensive as they think. And, in the system we’re developing, the booking and payment can be done online.”

Also in the works is opening a deli in the small building next door to Sensi, which will sell the restaurant’s bread, pasta and sauces by day and become a wine bar by night.

TRADITION MEETS NOVELTY

Sensi is at Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 17 Yaek 5 off Sathorn Road in Bangkok.

Dinner is served every night except Sunday from 5.30pm to 11.30pm.

Book a visit at (02) 676 4466 or http://www.SensiBangkok.com.

Logging on for food

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Logging on for food

tasty July 18, 2018 15:00

By The Nation

Eatigo, the leading restaurant reservation website, teams up with TripAdvisor to bring funding across all its investors to date to more than US$25 million (Bt833 million)

The pre-series C investment for Eatigo comes as TripAdvisor’s restaurants business unit and its subsidiary, TheFork, help expand Eatigo’s presence and services across the Asia Pacific region. On the heels of a successful entry into Hong Kong, the Philippines, Malaysia and India last year, Eatigo will use the funds to launch in several more markets and extend its product offering.

“Eatigo is excited to continue its strong relationship and collaboration with TripAdvisor. These new funds will be integral in allowing Eatigo to consolidate and extend the reach of our leadership and expertise in helping customers reserve the perfect table,” said Michael Cluzel, Eatigo’s chief executive officer and co-founder.

Available in six countries, Eatigo has over four million users and offers the largest inventory of discounted restaurants offers in the region, with more than 4,000 restaurant partners, from upscale hotels and fine-dining establishments to popular restaurant chains and neighbourhood budget eateries.

TripAdvisor Restaurants was established to better support the needs of diners and the 4.6 million restaurants listed on the travel site. TripAdvisor’s 2014 acquisition of its subsidiary, TheFork, provided the ideal complement to the site’s millions of restaurant listings by positioning it as an immediate online reservations leader in the dining and hospitality industry.

Today, TheFork operates out of 11 countries globally and supports reservation services for more than 50,000 restaurants. In the Asia Pacific region, TheFork operates the Dimmi brand in Australia.

“As we look to further our presence in the Asia Pacific region, we believe our latest strategic investment in Eatigo will continue to support a great business and strong management team,” said Bertrand Jelensperger, senior vice president of TripAdvisor Restaurants and founder of TheFork.

“TripAdvisor’s continued partnership with Eatigo will help us both better serve millions of diners and restaurant owners who are increasingly turning to online channels.”

So who’s counting the calories?

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So who’s counting the calories?

tasty July 16, 2018 11:53

By The Nation

Dean & Deluca is launching a new “Taste of American Summer” campaign offering American favourites from juicy burger and tasty fries to succulent ribs from today through September 16.

Among the tasty treats are Chilli Cheese Burger (Bt435) and Chilli Cheese Fries (Bt175). The star ingredient of this delicious duo is Thai wagyu beef chilli, a special chilli recipe concocted by Dean & Deluca’s own chef. The inspiration behind these two dishes come the most exquisite chilli cheese burger and fries in Southern California where Dean & Deluca’s chef feasted during his university years.

Chipotle BBQ Pork Ribs (Bt485), meanwhile, is a hearty main dish perfect for sharing and consists of braised pork ribs that have been slow-cooked for three-and-a-half hours. The succulent meat is then glazed with slightly sweet and spicy chipotle BBQ sauce with chipotle pepper and coffee extract, and served with potato salad and Dean & Deluca’s signature coleslaw.

For a smaller main dish, opt for American BBQ Chicken Quarter (Bt275 for restaurants and Bt195 for cafes). The tender chicken is marinated overnight and laden with tangy and sweet BBQ sauce. It is accompanied with creamy potato salad, coleslaw, and mixed green salad (restaurants only).

From the beverage side, the barista team rolls out Iced Rocky Road Nutella Latte (Bt150) and Rocky Road Milkshake (Bt175). This must-try drink series boast an all-time favourite chocolate hazelnut spread Nutella, chewy toasted marshmallows and crunchy roasted almonds.

Or check out the Rocky Road Milkshake with 72-per-cent Dark Belgian Chocolate ice cream. The drinks are available only in medium size. Wrap up the meal with two divine desserts. Oreo Cheesecake (Bt145), a delicacy featuring cheesecake mousse, dark chocolate, oreo cookies and Chantilly cream.

For something a little more classic, try Apple Raspberry Crumble Cheesecake (Bt155) boasting key ingredients such as apple cinnamon, raspberry, crumble and cream cheese.

Beverages and desserts are available at all Dean & Deluca stores except Khao Yai and Suvarnabhumi Airport stores.

Something extra from Kyo Roll En

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  • There are two Bangkok eateries called Kyo Cafe and Meal, this one at J Avenue on Soi Thonglor
  • Salmon Chazuke
  • Cold Cha-soba and Somen with dashi-shoyu sauce
  • Signature Somen Soup
  • Triple Roe Spaghetti

Something extra from Kyo Roll En

tasty July 14, 2018 01:00

By Khetsirin Pholdhampalit
The Nation

Two of the chain’s restaurants are now called Kyo Cafe and Meal, the better to fill you up

KYO ROLL EN, the popular chain of Bangkok dessert cafes known for their hand-rolled cakes made from authentic Kyoto recipes, is introducing an all-day-dining concept with additional menus for savoury light and healthy meals.

The “Kyo Cafe and Meal” concept has so far gone into action at two of the chain’s 31 outlets – at J Avenue on Soi Thonglor and at Central Department Store on Rama IX Road. They’ve been renamed as such, though the Kyo Roll En brand remains clear enough.

The typical Kyo Roll En interior design – subdued lighting in a setting that mimics its signature bamboo charcoal roll – is replaced at these eateries with a minimalist Japanese aesthetic, all clean, pale-wood furnishings and seats upholstered in indigo material.

There are two Bangkok eateries called Kyo Cafe and Meal, this one at J Avenue on Soi Thonglor

 

The J Avenue branch next to Villa Market boasts a glass facade, infusing the restaurant with natural light that freshens up the mood. The glass-topped tables bear display cases containing miniature Zen gardens. About 40 people can comfortably share the 70 square metres.

“In the competitive confectionery business today, sweet treats alone can’t draw in customers all day,” says owner Litti Kewkacha, who also runs the Sfree and Parferio cafes.

“With the new concept, customers can still enjoy the full range of Kyo Roll En desserts and drinks and now also 30 new savoury dishes that are light, quick and healthy.”

The chain’s name includes “Kyo” as a nod to Kyoto, the former capital of Japan that’s home to its cuisine inspiration.

“We go back to the roots of Kyoto cuisine, which typically features the flavour of dashi, the clear soup stock made from kombu [dried kelp] and katsuobushi [dried, smoked bonito],” says Litti. “These dry ingredients are rich in naturally occurring glutamates and provide a natural savoury umami flavour – the ‘fifth taste’ after salty, sweet, sour and bitter.

“Making a good dashi is difficult and complicated. Our dashi spends six hours boiling and is used in every dish in varying amounts.”

Salmon Chazuke

Chazuke is a simple dish traditionally made by pouring green tea and dashi over cooked rice, along with common toppings like pickles, seaweed, mentaiko (cod roe) and salted fish. With Kyo Cafe & Meal, a must-try dish is Salmon Chazuke (Bt159), a bowl of steamed rice topped with a lightly grilled salmon fillet and salmon roe and a small teapot of dashi that’s mild yet distinctive in flavour.

For an extra Bt30 you can get a pot of matcha-flavoured dashi that’s slightly bitter compared to the dashi itself, and refills are available too. It goes well with side dishes like toasted nori (seaweed), arare (rice cracker), fresh wasabi, chopped negi (long onion) and homemade takana (pickled mustard leaves).

In addition to salmon, chazuke can be ordered with braised chicken and konjac (Bt125),unagi (freshwater eel) and shredded Japanese omelette (Bt189), and mentaiko (cod roe) and maitake mushroom (Bt139).

Signature Somen Soup

Two noodles – the very thin, white somen made with wheat flour and not-so-thin, matcha-flavoured cha-soba made from buckwheat flour – can be had hot or cold.

Marked “Lite” in the menu, Signature Somen (Bt135) is noodle soup capped with braised, lean chicken chashu, wakame seaweed, maitake mushroom and fishcake.

“The idea is to sate the appetite but not get too full so that after the light meal, you still have room for dessert,” says Litti.

The cold-noodle choices are somen (Bt125), cha-soba (Bt145) and a combination of the two (Bt145) to dip in dashi-shoyu sauce.

Cold Cha-soba and Somen with dashi-shoyu sauce

Another cold dish is Maze-Somen (Bt145), which has somen noodles, an onsen egg, chicken chashu, mentaiko roe, takata pickles, shredded omelette, zucchini, wakameseaweed and cherry tomato. The dressing is mild dashi-shoyu sauce.

Maze-Somen 

Whether your noodles are hot or cold, pay an extra Bt89 for a refreshing soda infused with yuzu, grape or strawberry hibiscus. For an extra Bt75, you get to choose dessert from among a slice of roll cake or ice cream and pudding, and for Bt150, a soda-dessert combo.

Oden Pot

You might want to also try oden, a traditional Japanese winter comfort food that’s a stew of tofu and fishcake in dashi broth. Other optional ingredients are a seafood ball, boiled egg, mochi tofu, daikon, a konjac chunk or konjac noodles, eringi mushroom and seaweed. A solo diner could get two ingredients for Bt50, while a group can get eight choices for Bt180.

Kyo Spaghetti

Then there are six choices in pastas, each in a dashi sauce. Kyoto is well known for excellent matcha, and that’s what flavours Kyo Spaghetti (Bt165), along with grilled salmon and asparagus in a light, mildly creamy carbonara sauce.

Ebi-Miso Spaghetti

Ebi-Miso Spaghetti (Bt185) has shrimps and mushrooms in a slightly spicy shrimp-roe cream sauce and Triple Roe Spaghetti (Bt195) with dashi cream sauce and eggs of cod, salmon and shrimp.

Melon and Yuzu Granita

Available only here are two palate-cleansing desserts – Melon and Yuzu Granita (each Bt89).

DASHI TO DELIGHT

Kyo Cafe and Meal at J Avenue on Thonglor Soi 15 in Bangkok is open daily from 10 to 10.

Call (092) 265 9100 or visit http://www.KyoRollEn.com.

A taste of true Ethiopian coffee

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A taste of true Ethiopian coffee

tasty July 12, 2018 15:17

By The Nation

BOUTIQUE SINGLE origin coffee Kafa heads to Hong Kong this month, featuring in a special tasting dinner at Nicholini’s from July 19 to August 2.

Not only has chef Riccardo Catarsi created a menu filled with fragrant, roasted coffee flavours, the dinner will also be accompanied by coffee cocktails that highlight Kafa’s distinctive characteristics.

Kafa gets its name from the beans’ origin –a small forest region deep in Ethiopia. The 100-per-cent Arabica coffee’s exceptional quality has a direct relationship with the area’s wonderful soil and climate, the artisan cultivation technique and the way the beans are hand picked one by one. This production method, which stresses the connection with the surrounding landscape, means the beans are only available in small quantities and this makes them all the more precious.

Inspired by Kafa’s unique tasting notes, Catarsi harmoniously marries the coffee with the freshest produce in his menu. After sampling the welcome cocktail Kafa facon sangria, diners will be presented with scampi, roasted smoked leek cream, bell pepper brunoise and Kafa coffee dust. The dish is a work of balance, with just the right amount of the powdered coffee opening up an extra dimension to the delicate flavours of the scampi and vegetables. It’s followed by another drink, Coffeetail No 10 with Bombay Gin, a rounded concoction to enliven the taste buds.

The tasting dinner continues with risotto with castelmagno and mascapone cheese, porcini mushroom and coffee sweet onion cream. The coffee adds a novel element to this otherwise classic pairing, its robust notes an appropriate complement to the porcini. It will be served with the Coffeetail Spritz infused by citrus peel and orange aperitif.

The coffee’s strong fragrance also enriches another dish, lamb loin with cherries, almonds and coffee polenta. The dessert is composed of coffee macarons, chocolate rum mousse, lemon sponge; white coffee ice cream and sugar cane crumble, dazzling diners with its complex layering. Chef Catarsi names it dolce ponce after the iconic drink from his hometown Livorno, made with a part of rum and a part of coffee, sugar and lemon peel.

The tasting dinner will be available at HK$1,080. While not publicly on sale, Kafa coffee is now served exclusively at Nicholini’s and Conrad Hong Kong. Guests who opt for Nicholini’s tasting dinner during the promotion period can also take home a coffee cup and saucer by Lavazza.

Nicholini’s is at Conrad Hong Kong and online reservations can be made at http://www.ConradDining.com.

The ultimate sushi

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The ultimate sushi

tasty July 11, 2018 16:00

By The Nation

2,002 Viewed

Luxury Phuket resort Sripanwa is hosting Master Chef Hiroshi Saeki from Sushi Saeki in Osaka for an exclusive sushi pop-up event that will run from August 31 to September 2.

With limited seats, Sushi Saeki, Osaka is always fully booked a year ahead by sushi lovers eager to experience the premium qualities of seasonal ingredients.

Special accommodation packages are available for gourmets wanting to experience Saeki’s Omakase course.

The meal alone starts at Bt12,000-plus for two while the two-night packages cost from Bt42,000 to Bt58,000 plus special gifts.

Make a booking by emailing chill@sripanwa.com or call (076) 371000.

Burgers lovers find a new paradise

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Burgers lovers find a new paradise

tasty July 11, 2018 11:51

By The Nation

2,556 Viewed

CKE Restaurants Holdings, the parent company of California burger brand Carl’s Jr, recently opened the fifth restaurant in Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Soi 22 that’s open around the clock.

Operated by the franchisee R&R Restaurant Group, the new Carl’s Jr restaurant introduces the taste of California to a young energetic population of consumers. Now, more Thais will have the chance to experience a classic American menu of 100-per-cent pure beef char-grilled burgers, a Western Bacon Cheeseburger as well as Hand-Breaded Chicken Tenders, crispy Hand-Breaded Chicken Drumsticks and Wings and Hand-Scooped Ice Cream Shakes.

“We are thrilled to expand Carl’s Jr into the Sukhumvit district,” said Brad Sommer, general manager –Asia, CKE Restaurants.

“Thailand’s large, youthful population and aspirational middle class are increasingly seeking western brands that offer superior taste, quality and convenience,” added Ivor Pratap, group director of R&R Restaurants Group. “With its freshly prepared, flavourful menu items, Carl’s Jr. is well positioned to meet the needs of today’s discerning Thai consumers.”

In addition to the Soi Sukhumvit 22 opening, Carl’s Jr. Thailand will open two more restaurants in Bangkok this year.

Keep updated at Facebook.com/CarlsJr.Thailand

Caramba! TexMex arrives in Bangkok

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Caramba! TexMex arrives in Bangkok

tasty July 10, 2018 16:29

By The Nation

3,152 Viewed

Hong Kong-based CaliMex Bar & Grill, spreads its wings and lands in Bangkok, opening its first branch in the City of Angels on the ground floor of the Holiday Inn, the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 22, on July 18.

The original concept the taqueria, a casual Mexican bar/restaurant, but here it diverges. CaliMex serves up a cool Californian vibe combining American-style Mexican food in an easygoing laidback atmosphere. The founders came up with the idea on a roadtrip from North America to Mexico.

“We loved the staple Mexican dishes – tacos, nachos, quesadillas and burritos but were totally sold on the Californian fresh, light and healthy take on Mexican cuisine,” says CaliMex founder Jeffrey Moss. “The Californian food vibe added a tasty simplicity with an emphasis on quality farm produce. On the road, we decided to create the ultimate fastfood luxury experience and the CaliMex Bar & Grill idea was born.”

CaliMex’s secrets to success are the carefully handpicked ingredients which are flown in daily; fresh from global destinations, the constantly updated mouthwatering specials from the state of the art CaliMex Food Lab, the trademark CaliMex decor of quality wooden and copper fittings, and the large shared booth-seating with custom-made tables from Canada incorporating the CaliMex signature feature of built in beer taps serving ice cold beer.

The brand already has 20 locations in Hong Kong and in Bangkok, the founders saw a potentially lucrative market.

“Bangkok is the ideal place for strategically placed CaliMex Bar & Grill venues. Considering the ever increasing tourist clientele plus local and expat residents who are always on the lookout for innovative, fresh new dining and bar hotspots, we tick all the boxes,” adds Mike Warde, country manager of CaliMex Thailand.

The restaurant will be serving all the CaliMex favourites: choose your filling Burritos, Saladas, Quesadillas, Enchiladas, Nachos and Homemade Guacomole plus vegetarian options like the Venice Beach Vegan. A mouthwatering selection of Burgers, Off the Grill Specialities: Ribeye steaks, Fish & Chips, Grilled Atlantic Salmon and Chicken Parmigiana make choices difficult. All dishes have spice levels: super hot, hot, medium and mild. It can accommodate about 100 customers.

Three more locations are expected to open later on Silom, Sukhumvit Soi 11, and Soi Thonglor.

“We anticipate at least 20 CaliMex outlets in Thailand within three years, the same growth pattern as Hong Kong”, says Warde.

Marvels of the Med

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Marvels of the Med

tasty July 09, 2018 19:04

By The Nation

3,131 Viewed

Uno Mas – a unique rooftop restaurant on the 54th floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld has just rolled out a brand new “Chef’s Seasonal Tasting Menu”, bringing some of the finest and freshest flavours from Spain and the Mediterranean to your table.

 This seasonal tasting menu, comprising of six courses, blends authentic, home-cooked style dishes with some innovative Mediterranean twists that showcase the chef’s creative flair.

The six-course menu includes risotto-style creamy bomba rice with Pyrenees wild mushrooms, pan-fried wild turbot served with seasonal porcini and Joselito broth, as well as Rubia Gallega rib-eye steak imported straight from Spain, served with potato mille-feuille, piquillo pepper, black garlic and garlic puree.

Dessert takes the form of Basque country traditional cheesecake with Canary Islands fig jam.

Uno Mas’s seasonal tasting menu is priced at Bt1,950-plus with an additional wine pairing to go with each course costing Bt1,290-plus on top.

Book your table at (02) 100 6255 or email: diningcgcw@chr.co.th.

Foodpanda turns six

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Foodpanda turns six

tasty July 09, 2018 12:00

By The Nation

3,080 Viewed

Foodpanda Thailand is celebrating its sixth anniversary by giving free delivery to those ordering their favourite food via the foodpanda application or website.

The promotion runs until July 31 for selected restaurants, including Bonchon Chicken, The Terrace Restaurant, The Coffee Club and many more.

If the idea of eating gravy noodles from the renowned Chakki, hot and spicy Somtum from Zabb One or Pad Thai from Pad Thai Fai Talu on your own couch attracts you, you can order street food menus with a minimum value of Bt200 to get free delivery.

On top of the free delivery, customers of foodpanda app and website are entitled to various deals including free items and discounts.

“Foodpanda is now stepping towards its sixth year as one of the top food delivery companies in Thailand. We would like to take this opportunity to thank all customer and business partners who have supported us along the way. We would particularly like to thank our customers for the loyalty they have to our service by delivering food to their doorstep without any delivery fee”, says foodpanda Thailand’s Managing Director, Alexander Felde.

“Our goal is to keep improving and expanding our service across Thailand,” he adds. The offers are valid across Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket.

Participating restaurants will be labelled with a “Free Delivery” pink tag in the app and on the foodpanda website at http://www.foodpanda.co.th/.