Based at Como Uma Paro, this six-night trip takes you to the heart of the ethereal Himalayan kingdom. From the gravity-defying Tiger’s Nest Monastery to the temple of the Divine Madman, travellers can enjoy spectacular drives, unique nature walks and a day at the renowned Matsutake Mushroom Festival.

Visitors will spend three nights at COMO Uma Paro and three nights at COMO Uma Punakha, located in the tropical Punakha Valley with its magnificent dzongs, rice paddies and ancient temples. A journey into the kingdom’s heartland starts at the bustling capital of Thimphu, set in a valley dotted with monuments, museums and markets. You then visit the Matsutake Mushroom Festival at Genekha village, where the local community comes together to exhibit their delicious local produce, including their famous mushrooms.

The package includes accommodation, picnic lunches during excursion days (excluding beverages), and five-and-a-half days of privately guided excursions taking in the highlights of the Paro, Thimphu and Punakha Valleys with an experienced English-speaking Bhutanese guide.

Guests can also take advantage of seasonal Matsutake menu, a complimentary packet of Matsutake mushrooms, an one-hour mushroom hunt, a 60-minute Como Shambhala body treatment, private airport transfers and transport around Bhutan and all Bhutanese government visa and royalty fees, service charge and sales tax.

Find out more at www.Comohotels.com/umabhutan.

Following the renovation of facilities and restoration of natural resources, the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation (DNP) has collected Bt1.7 billion in revenue from nationwide national park admission fees from October 2016 until June 2017, DNP spokesman Sompot Maneerat said on Wednesday.

Most of the revenue was collected from the admission fees of Bt428 million at Krabi’s Nopparat Thara Beach and Phi Phi Islands National Park, followed by Bt299 million at Phang Nga’s Mu Koh Similan National Park.

The DNP is aiming to generate more revenue from tourism at the national parks and will allocate the money for the restoration and development of natural attractions, as the budget from the government is not sufficient.

AFTER FLOODING caused by the run-off from the Mekong River put a damper on festivities last year, the northeast province of Loei has sprung back to life, with Dan Sai district all ready to host its annual Bun Luang or “Bun Pawet” and the famous Phi Ta Khon Festival in a week-long celebration that gets underway this weekend.

This year, the unique celebration featuring colourful processions and villagers wearing ghost masks, kicks off at Wat Phon Chai on Saturday and runs through Monday then moves to Wat Sri Phum on June 27-28, Wat Sri Sa Ard, on June 30 and Wat Pho Sri on July 1.

The annual Phi Ta Khon Festival returns to Dan Sai district of Loei province this weekend.

“Phi Ta Khon in Nam Thang and Na Vieng still maintains the traditional masks and procession, but Phi Ta Khon in Na Vieng is now different, having switched to a night parade,” says Witut Suwankoed, Na Viang Yai’s village headman.

“It isn’t scary at you might imagine a night event to be but rather it provides plenty of photographic opportunities. Three prizes are handed out for the winning images of Phi Ta Khon in Na Vieng.”

Four temples in Dan Sai abide by the traditions of the Phi Ta Khon Festival, but only Wat Phon Chai has been promoted over the years and today draws Thai and foreign tourists in their thousands. That fame has come at the cost of the other temples in the area but this could be about to change, as Si Song Rak mayor Waythin Phienwittaya, who performed Phi Ta Khon since he was a child, has been working hard to restore the cultural heritage for the two temples in his sub-district, Wat Sri Sa Ard and Wat Pho Sri, for a few years.

“Phi Ta Khon Festival at Wat Phon Chai is the only venue that’s been heavily promoted. The other three temples join the celebration of Phi Ta Khon Festival but without support from either the public or private sector. The villagers help each other to produce the Phi Ta Khon masks from the original materials and organise the festival by themselves without any promotion. So, the festivals at these three temples don’t attract the interest of tourists even though they deserve to.

“Most tourists only know Phi Ta Khon Festival at Wat Phon Chai. That’s why I’ve attempted to restore the Phi Ta Khon tradition at Wat Sri Sa Ard and Wat Pho Sri,” says Waythin.

“The Phi Ta Khon Festival at the four temples isn’t different in terms of the basics – each features two big ghosts and some smaller ones. Phi Ta Khon Yai (big ghosts) consists of male and female spirits with exaggerated sexual organs. The prototypes for Phi Ta Khon Yai were originally made for Wat Phon Chai by auntie Jop Muensom’s ancestors, and she says that if she didn’t continue the tradition, she would fall ill. The pattern of the Phi Ta Khon mask from four temples isn’t different but it has been adjusted to suit modern times and is made with the modern materials. In the two villages under our jurisdiction, we have chosen to maintain the traditional mask made of coconut husks and huad (rice steamer basket handcrafted from bamboo), while the costumes are sewn from recycled jiwon and sabong , the outer and inner robe of a Buddhist monk respectively,” he adds.

Villagers rehearse for the parade with two Phi Ta Khon Yai.

“This year, the Phi Ta Khon Festival at the other three temples will have a traditional theme. The mask of Phi Ta Khon is separated into three periods. Formerly, the mask was painted using soot only – a dark powdery deposit of unburned fuel residues. Today, it consists of three colours –black, white and red. In modern times, it is more colourful,” says the Na Vieng Yai headman.

The Phi Ta Khon Festival reflects the local Isaan belief in ghosts and spirits. Held once a year, it is part of a grand merit-making festival known as “Bun Luang”. The origins of the Phi Ta Khon Festival can be found in the tale of Lord Buddha’s last great incarnation before attaining Enlightenment. In Buddhist accounts, it is said that when Prince Vessantara, the Buddha’s penultimate incarnation, returned to his city, it was such a joyous occasion that the village spirits came forth to join the welcoming parade.

Two types of “spirits” are featured in the Phi Ta Khon procession, namely the Phi Ta Khon Yai – the supreme Phi Ta Khon, and the Phi Ta Khon Lek”, ghosts that are commonly found. For the former, a sacred ritual must be performed to seek the blessings of the supreme powers before work on the Phi Ta Khon Yai masks can be initiated. It is also a task reserved exclusively for the descendants of families in which the tradition of making Phi Ta Khon masks has been practised for several generations.

“Phi Ta Khon Festival takes place before the ninth month of the Buddhist Lent Day,” says Waythin.

Villagers craft the traditional Phi Ta Khon masks.

“We work with the schools in the areas of our responsibility to teach this tradition to ensure that the next generation will inherit the traditions of Phi Ta Khon.

“During the festival, we will |also encourage agritourism and promote our popular agricultural product, Bong Wan bamboo shoots. We will create dishes made of the bamboo shoots including some desserts where it will replace haew (truffle) in thap thim krob (mock pomegranate seeds in coconut ice syrup).”

As well as the unique masked parade through the town, visitors can enjoy other activities including the Phi Ta Khon mask contest, a junior Phi Ta Khon contest, a recitation of the 13 sermons of Phra Vessandorn (as Prince Vessantara is known to Thais) and exhibition booths from the public and private sectors. There is also a fun food festival and booths selling local products.

And the three other temples in Dan Sai are likely to get a further boost from next year thanks to the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s new “Cool Isaan” campaign, which seeks to promote the traditional way of life in Ban Nam Thang, Ban Nathum, and Ban Na Vieng Yai.

WITH ITS stunning alpine landscape, Switzerland is a magnet for travellers from all over the world, but it holds a special place in the hearts of Thais because it was once home to His Majesty the beloved late King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

The late monarch, King Rama IX rarely left Thailand throughout the seven decades of his reign, but he spent his formative years, before ascending the throne, in Lausanne, one of the most picturesque of Swiss settings.

One of the buildings at the Ecole Nouvelle de la Suisse Romande looks much the same as it did when King Rama VIII and his younger brother attended all those decades ago. 

For Thais grieving his death last October, there is comfort in reading about his life, and even more in seeking out the places that played important roles in developing his character.

While Lausanne has in many ways changed over time, visiting Thais are delighted to find several buildings in almost exactly the same condition as they were during King Rama IX’s residence here.

One of them is the apartment building at 16 Avenue Tissot, where the future king and his family lived from 1933 to 1935.

He was still a boy, born in the United States just a few years earlier, in 1927. His London-born sister HRH Princess Galyani Vadhana was four years older. His brother HRH King Ananda Mahidol, born in Heidelberg, Germany, and hailed as King Rama VIII near the end of their stay on Avenue Tissot, was older than Bhumibol by two years.

I’d read about the family apartment in the book “Chaonai Lek Lek – Yuwakasat” (“Little Royals – Young Kings”) written by Her Royal Highness the late Princess Galyani Vadhana, so it was exciting to see it in person on my recent trip to Lausanne.

As described in the book, it sits in a quiet corner of the town, in a fine apartment block with “16” displayed prominently on one of the main doors. Since the building is entirely private property, unauthorised visitors are not allowed inside, but my imagination was ably assisted by the Princess’ memoir.

“Mum rented a flat on the first floor because she was worried her children might disturb the people living below with their running and jumping. Under our flat there was only the garage,” Galyani wrote, referring to her mother, who would become known as Her Royal Highness Sri Nagarindra the Princess Mother.

Her Royal Highness Princess Sri Nagarindra and her three children lived in this apartment block in Lausanne from 1933 to 1935.

“The flat had quite an ample sitting room, a dining room, a bedroom for mum and me with yellow furniture, and a bedroom for my brothers with pink furniture.”

I noticed a large balcony at the rear of the apartment block. The Princess recalled that she and her brothers often spent time on their flat’s balcony when the weather was nice, and indeed her book has several photos of them out there. The pictures are black and white, so I wasn’t sure if the balcony railing was the same colour, green, as I saw during my visit.

I could see nothing and no one on this particular balcony, and it appeared that the doors of the flat leading onto the balcony were closed.

From the apartment, I could see Lake Geneva (or Lac Leman, as French-speakers call it) and I also discovered that it was only a short distance to Lausanne station.

Also close by is the Palais de Rumine, once a main building of the University of Lausanne, where the royal siblings studied when they grew older. The architecture is impressive, quite beautiful in the Florentine Renaissance style. It now houses a library of the university and several museums and is free to visit.

Out front is the St Francois Market where the Princess Mother used to buy fresh produce for her family. The market is open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

The Palais de Rumine was once a main building of the University of Lausanne, where the royal siblings received their formal education.

My tour guide explained that the university had relocated some distance from the Palais de Rumine, to premises large enough to accommodate its growing number of students.

Inside I found a lot of young people pursuing their academic interests, but no clear trace of Thai royalty. That was to be found instead at the Ecole Nouvelle de la Suisse Romande, the school Ananda and Bhumibol attended beginning in 1935 – the year Ananda became King at age nine.

Two of the school’s original buildings, pictured in “Chaonai Lek Lek”, still stand. Inside one is a cabinet displaying many photos and other mementoes of the Thai royal family. A plaque honouring the two boys who became kings adorns the front of the school’s new building.

During my visit, Lysandre Seraidaris was on hand to share stories about the princes’ childhood. His father had been their private tutor, and King Bhumibol personally granted Seraidaris permission to write about their time in Switzerland, based on his father’s recollections.

Originally published in French, his book “King Bhumibol and the Thai Royal Family in Lausanne” has been translated into English as well as Thai. In Thailand, it became a bestseller.

Seraidaris has a formal presentation about “The King I Used to Know” that provides fascinating glimpses into the private lives of the royal family. He confirms that the siblings and their mother excelled at skiing, and Thais are familiar with photos of the family enjoying themselves on the slopes while on holiday.

Princess Galyani remembered in her book another happy occasion. She quotes a letter from her mother about her brothers’ visit to a Swiss chocolate factory, which they were interested to find largely automated.

In fair weather the royal children loved spending time on the balcony just above the garage at their apartment building in Lausanne. 

That was on April 15, 1935, at the invitation of Nestle, the chocolate maker with which the Cailler brand is affiliated. Thais travelling in Switzerland today make it a point to visit the factory, which offers a wonderful, multi-sensory presentation on the history of cacao.

Lausanne also has a vast park where the Princes and Princess played in their childhood. The boys had their picture taken with sculptures of monkeys there, and you can still see the carvings, looking exactly the same as they do in the royal family’s snapshots.

It was an undeniably joyful experience following “the royal trail”, but I had to agree with Kittiphong na Ranong, Thailand’s ambassador to Switzerland, who advised us to focus less on the physical places and more on what it was about the country that instilled in King Bhumibol such remarkable qualities.

“Swiss people are thinkers and inventors,” the ambassador said. “They usually do things by themselves and are fully dedicated to what they do.” And the brothers lived in Switzerland for 17 and 18 years, he pointed out.

He told visiting reporters, as an aside, that the Thai Embassy in Bern has a piano believed to be the first serious musical instrument with which the Princes became acquainted, when they were just nine and seven.

Kittiphong’s words resonate in King Bhumibol’s oft-quoted statement that he cared little about how history remembered him. “If they want to write about me in a good way,” he famously said, “they should write how I do things that are useful.”

So, as much I will always cherish the experience of exploring the royal trail in Switzerland, I recall more the late King’s boundless benevolence, and take to heart his teachings.

The writer travelled to Switzerland as a guest of Government Savings Bank.

ON THE SKI FIELDS of Mount Taehwa, groomed pistes snake down wooded hillsides to a luxurious hotel and a giant screen showing a North Korean army choir. But the runs are empty.

Work began on Masikryong ski resort, the only one in the North and the brainchild of Supreme Leader Kim Jong-Un, after Pyeongchang in the neighbouring South was awarded the 2018 winter Olympics.

The impoverished, nuclear-armed nation has ramshackle infrastructure and around 40 per cent of its people are undernourished, according to the Global Hunger Index.

North Korean visitors pose on a snowmobile at the Masikryong ski resort 

But the luxurious resort boasts a wood-panelled reception and statues of winter sports athletes.

Outside a large stone tablet proclaims: “The work of Dear Leader Kim Jong-Un who devoted hard work and heart and soul to make our people the happiest and most civilised people.”

At a visitor centre packed with pictures of Kim – including one of him using a chairlift, although without skis – guides credit him with giving on-the-spot guidance no fewer than 144 times over the course of construction.

The resort is a three-hour drive from Pyongyang, down a potholed concrete road that passes through unlit tunnels and which civilian work crews clear of snow and ice by hand after fresh falls.

The warm comforts inside are a world away from the scenes outside the entrance checkpoint, where peasant farmers drag sleds loaded with firewood across frozen lakes, and ox-drawn carts are used for transport.

And – aside from the nursery slopes – it is deserted.

A second-hand Doppelmayr bubble lift, the ski boxes still stencilled with “Ischgl”, its original Austrian home, takes visitors to the top of Mt Taehwa, where a handful of curious Westerners enjoy the thrill of having almost an entire resort to themselves.

With a 700-metre vertical drop, the skiing compares favourably to other destinations in neighbouring China or South Korea.

At one point on a weekend afternoon in peak season, Swede Patrik Hultberg was the only skier on the slopes, he said. “That’s really cool. I wish I could experience it more, hitting new pistes and there’s nobody there.”

Norwegian software developer Lars Eidnes has previously snowboarded in Iran and Kyrgyzstan. “If you want to escalate from there, then you come to DPRK,” he said.

Day passes for foreigners cost almost $100 (Bt3,500) while for citizens of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea – around 100 of whom were on the single nursery slope – they are priced at the equivalent of about $30 at free-market rates.

By some estimates that approaches an ordinary worker’s monthly salary. But most will go on group trips organised by their work unit, school or organisation, at zero or minimal cost.

After trying skiing for the first time, ship’s captain Kwak Jong-Song said he found it “refreshing”.

“I would like to thank our Supreme Leader Kim Jong-Un who is giving his whole devotion to our people’s happy lives,” he said.

Ordinary North Koreans normally only ever express officially-sanctioned views when speaking to foreigners.

Resort executives say it sees 70,000 visitors a year. Such figures are hard to square with the uncrowded vistas, but hotel director An Song-Ryol insists it is profitable.

“We do not mind the cost if it is for the improvement of the welfare of our people,” he said. “We do not calculate.”

Pyongyang has a “byungjin” policy of “simultaneous development”, meaning pursuing both GDP growth and nuclear weapons at the same time, even though it is subject to multiple sets of UN sanctions over its atomic and missile programmes – among them a ban on luxuries, including snowmobiles and “recreational sports equipment”.

At a parade last month for the 105th birth anniversary of founder Kim Il-Sung it displayed an arsenal of devices, including a suspected new intercontinental ballistic missile, as well as floats showing mock-ups of prestige property projects.

Masikryong was part of a regional development plan and driven by authorities’ view that a prosperous country should have a ski resort, said Nick Bonner, director of specialist North Korea travel agency Koryo Tours, which offers it among its destinations. “So they built it.”

“It’s not busy, it’s never been busy,” he added. “But it’s not quite a white elephant either. It’s going to take time.”

But Andrei Lankov, director of website NK News and professor at Kookmin University in Seoul, said Pyongyang’s tourism expectations have been “absolutely unfounded” and “nearly comical”.

Kim Jong-Un went to school in Switzerland, he pointed out. “He just decided to emulate what he saw there,” he said. “He saw wonderful mountains in Korea, which are indeed beautiful, and he said why not make our country into a tourist destination like Switzerland so we can make a lot of money like Switzerland does.”

The incongruity of the situation is not lost on some Masikryong visitors.

Norwegian Eidnes, 29, said he had been treated “like a king” at Masikryong.

“It’s very opulent, things are very nice,” he added. “That’s a sharp contrast to normal life for everyone. It’s been on our minds.”

“Whoever tells me that nothing happens in Medjugorje, I tell them to come here and try it,” the 72-year-old Belgian woman said.

She told AFP that “a warmth did not stop rising” inside her stomach on her first visit to the town 11 years ago, which followed surgery on a bladder tumour and a pessimistic diagnosis from doctors.

In June 1981, six Bosnian teenagers said they had witnessed the appearance of the Virgin in the southern town near the Croatian border.

She continues to “appear” to three of them daily, and to the other three once a year.

With some of them now living between Medjugorje, Italy and the United States, they proclaim themselves “seers” and say the Virgin is transmitting them messages, which they publish for the edification of believers on the multi-language website, medjugorje.hr.

‘Crown of stars’

In a rare interview to local media, one of the self-declared seers, Vicka Ivankovic-Mijatovic, described Mary’s visitations, which occur “every day at 6:40 pm”.

“Before her arrival, a light appears three times. This is the sign that she is coming.”

The Virgin “has a grey dress, a white veil, a crown of stars, blue eyes, black hair, pinkish cheeks. She is floating on a grey cloud and does not step on the ground,” said Ivankovic-Mijatovic, now 52.

In early March, Mirjana Dragicevic-Soldo, another one of the six “seers”, transmitted a message from the Virgin calling on people to “live with love for the word of (her) Son, so that the world can be different”.

Every year, some 2.5 million pilgrims visit Medjugorje, according to Polish archbishop Henryk Hoser. Many of those descend in June to mark the 1981 visions.

In February Hoser was sent by the Vatican to analyse their “needs” and “acquire a deeper knowledge of the pastoral situation”.

Home to around 2,300 people, who are mostly ethnic Croat Roman Catholics, the town is nestled among hills, including the mount on which the Virgin is said to appear.

Pilgrims arrive by the coach-load and linger in front of the twin-towered Saint Jacob’s Church, while others wander between religious souvenir shops, guesthouses, hotels and restaurants.

Some climb the rocky hill known for the apparitions, from which a white stone statue of the Virgin looks over the town. Visions have also been reported in other locations.

Prospered

Medjugorje has prospered through its reputation for miracles, with its population more than doubling since 1991 — just before the start of the ethnic conflict that devastated Bosnia, which remains largely impoverished.

But it is difficult to estimate how much wealth has been generated.

Local business owners are suspected of not reporting accurate visitor numbers for tax reasons, despite efforts to crack down on tax evasion in 2013 and 2016.

According to local media reports, the guesthouse owned by one of the “seers” was targeted in particular.

“From a religious point of view Medjugorje is very fertile land,” Hoser said cautiously in April, adding that the work of the parish, managed by Franciscan priests, was “in line with new evangelisation”.

But in the nearby town of Mostar, Bishop Ratko Peric said Medjugorje’s fame was based on a falsehood.

“These are not authentic appearances of the Virgin Mary,” he said in February, dismissing the 47,000 alleged apparitions since June 1981.

Vatican probe

The Vatican, which is not opposed to the pilgrimages, has not revealed the conclusion of an enquiry conducted between 2010 and 2014 into the Medjugorje sightings.

But recent irony-tinged declarations from Pope Francis suggest the probe threw up doubts over the issue.

The pontiff said earlier this month that the woman, whom the seers say they see, “is not the mother of Jesus”.

“But it is obvious, who thinks the Virgin would say: ‘Come to this place tomorrow at this time and I’ll give a message to a seer’?” the pontiff said.

However he was more circumspect about the 1981 visions, which he didn’t immediately reject.

“On the original apparitions, the ones the children had, the enquiry says, more or less, that investigations need to continue,” he said.

‘Will accept it’

The Pope’s comments were not well received in Medjugorje, where one local priest, who asked to remain anonymous, said they “create trouble”.

“He should have looked deeply into his soul to know whether such a declaration would do good or bad,” said another Bosnian believer, who also refused to give his name.

Julita Buzekova, a 46-year-old Polish pilgrim, said many people continued to visit the site, believing it a special place.

“The pope will eventually accept it,” she said, on her way up the hill.

Since June is the month when many believers visit Medjugorje, it is still too early to assess the impact of the Pope’s scepticism.

“The church will always be full. But things are not so good as far as tourism is concerned, after an excellent period from 2005 to 2008,” said Mladen, a restaurant waiter, who blamed the economic crisis for the decline.

Father Francesco, 53, brings several groups of pilgrims every year from Paris.

“It is a place of grace, of conversion. Here, Mary is going to unite Catholics, Orthodox people and Muslims,” he said.

All properties of U Hotels & Resorts in Bangkok, Kanchanaburi, Pattaya, Phuket, Khao Yai and Chiang Mai are offering a generous 10-per-cent discount for online bookings until October 31. Guests can take advantage of 24-hour use of their room, breakfast at any time of day and the online U Choose program that allows guests to pre-select such amenities as pillows, soap, tea and music.

Book your stay at http://www.UHotelsResorts.com.

Island in the sun

Manathai Koh Samui welcomes travellers during the rainy season with a two-night package in a Deluxe Balcony Room that is available through December 20. The package, which is priced at Bt6,990, includes breakfast, a 30-minute Thai or oil massage for two, Thai cooking classes for two, Thai garland ritual and water blessing welcome, complimentary Wi-Fi, beach bag and umbrella. A net surcharge of Bt,2000 per room per night will be levied from July 15 to August 31.

Check out the promotion at (077) 458 560-4 or http://www.manathai.com.

The only way to fly

Emirates is offering discounts of up to 80 per cent to passengers booking a Business Class flight before June 4 for outbound travel dates through December 15. Special fares range from Bt96,165 to London, Bt104,245 to Milan and Bt145, 715 to New York. Guests will also complimentary access to the recently opened Emirates Airport Lounge at Suvarnabhumi Airport.

Book your ticket at http://www.Emirates.com/th.

Sails to the wind

The Samui Regatta turns 16 this year and will be back at Chaweng Beach from Saturday to May 27. This year, the event will joined by veteran sailors from Australia, Hong Kong, the United States, China and Thailand. The sailing course ranges from Windward/Leeward, Coastal, and Triangle formats. Tickets are priced at Bt800 a day.

Find out more at http://www.SamuiRegatta.com.

Fit and healthy at Well Hotel

Book a room at Well Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 20 until October 31 and enjoy extra nights free. Stay one night, and you get one night free or book two nights and get two more free. The special rates range from Bt4,900 to Bt8,850 and include breakfast for two on paid night, free soft drinks and local beer in the mini-bar, free 15-minute mini massage at Well Spa, free late check-out until 4pm (for deluxe room, executive room and executive suite), 25-per-cent discount at Well Spa, Eat Well Cafe and the Twist Bar & Bistro, as well as free exercise classes including muay thai and cardio, and free Wifi.

Check out the best rates at http://www.WellHotelBangkok.com or |call (02) 127 5995.