Chopped, eaten and imbibed

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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A Chinese deity on display at Long Shan Temple in Taipei.

Tourists capture photos of the famous jade cabbage in National Palace Museum.

Taiwanese “therapists” give a knife massage at a night market in Taipei.

May 17, 2017 01:00
By Phoowadon Duangmee
Special to The Nation
Taipei, Taiwan

The Taiwanese capital is a terrific place to spend time but do beware of the friendly Taiwanese and their endless bottles of whisky

WE STROLL through the bustle of Taipei’s night market, which now that darkness has fallen, is a gustatory paradise filled with casual eateries and stalls. Waiters and hawkers beckon passers-by urging them to try such Taiwanese delicacies as stinky tofu, grilled sweet yam, barbecued squid, soy sauce eggs and plenty more, mainly unidentifiable, dishes. So caught up are we by the tempting treats on offer that the sight of a row of bodies being rhythmically slapped by men wielding glinting kitchen cleavers comes as a shock.

Food vendors entice hungry travellers with food ranging from stinky tofu to cake with pork blood. 

 

“Wait a minute,” I say as my eyes shift from the butcher’s knives to a flag covered in Chinese writing.

“It’s a knife massage,” says Som, a lovely Thai lady and the brains behind the “Taiwanguru.com” travel blog, who is serving as our guide in Taipei. “Do you want to try? You can have a shoulder massage or a full-body treat.”

As we approach, the therapists brandish their blades like the sword masters in Ang Lee’s “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”.

“Should I call my girlfriend? She should have warned me about the butchers of Taipei,” I tell Som. I have nothing against knives but they are not coming anywhere near my body. Imagine if I signed up for a full-bodied massage and as I turned over the therapist slapped a cleaver on my butt. No way!

Jang, my girlfriend, visited Taipei and much more of the island during her several assignments. For me, it’s a first trip. In more than 15 years as a travel journalist, I have visited Chinese communities around the world – Beijing, Singapore, Hong Kong and Melbourne in Australia and Canada. Taiwan is an unexpected treat, coming just before my departure from The Nation.

“The Taiwanese are quite different from other Chinese around the world,” notes Som, who is married to one. “They think like Americans and are free-spirited. On the other hand, they are also shy and, like the Japanese, have a penchant for cute. They are quite internationalised in many ways.”

And, like the hobbits, the Taiwanese enjoy eating. They eat at least four times a day. Many restaurants in Taipei stay open around the clock to satisfy the Taiwanese taste buds.

One afternoon, we head to Din Tai Fung restaurant – the original store on Xinyi Road. Founded in 1958 by Chinese who fled the civil war to Taiwan, the restaurant excels in steamed dumplings – xia long bao in the Chinese language. The queue outside is extremely long but for the dumpling-obsessed, Din Tai Fung is worth the wait. In 1993 The New York Times named it one of the top 10 restaurants in the world and Din Tai Fung has since become Taiwan’s unofficial ambassador with branches in Japan, Australia, the United States and Thailand.

We start with pork and chicken dumplings and continue with chicken noodle soup, wonton in chilli oil, pork chop and fried rice. When the soup dumplings (its signature) arrive, we’re warned about the “hot stuff” inside.

Soup dumplings are an age-old mystery of Chinese cuisine. The dumpling has three separate components – the dough, the filling and the soup. The dough is the dough and the filling is made of minced pork. But how does the soup get inside the dough pocket? The answer is deceptively simple: the chef puts a broth cube in the pocket, which liquefies after steaming. The trick is to get the soup so gelatinous that it’s solid at room temperature and for that, I leave the mastery to Din Tai Fung’s chefs. How ever they manage it, it’s hen hao – darn good!

Taipei has far more to share than baskets of dumplings and stinky tofu. The city is also noted for fresh seafood, and here the Japanese influence on Taiwan food culture is evident.

Fresh sashimi is served at Taipei Fish Market – a large supermarketcumseafood restaurant.

We visit the Taipei Fish Market one evening and are surprised to find that the actual old fish market has been converted into a posh seafood market-cum-restaurant. On one side there is large supermarket selling fresh crabs, fish, wine and ready-to-eat packages of steamed crab, steamed vegetables, sushi and rolls of rice. Those in a rush, I notice, buy some sushi, sashimi, vegetables and a glass of wine and eat and drink while walking around the stalls and at one of the large tables in the store.

We opt for a sit-down dinner at the seafood restaurant on the other side. We order a huge set of raw seafood topped with salmon, tuna and oysters and enjoy them with such condiments as fresh wasabi root. To honour the Japanese contribution to Taiwanese food culture, we wash the meal down with Asahi.

When we are not eating, we feast our eyes by visiting Taipei’s landmarks. Taipei 101 is an automatic choice since the city’s highest tower is with walking distance from our hotel – the Grand Hyatt Taipei. In fact, Taipei is very convenient when it comes to sightseeing thanks to its efficient metro line network.

Visitors look at religious objects in National Palace Museum.

“Long Shan Temple, National Palace Museum, Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, Shilin Night Market and most tourist attractions around Taipei can be reached by the metro,” says Som.

“If you jump into the metro on the weekend, you will see local people in hiking outfits taking the subway to the walking trails. You have the city at one end of the metro line, and the countryside at the other.”

One morning we make it to National Palace Museum. A must for visitors to Taiwan, it is home to the world’s largest and finest collection of Chinese art evacuated from China’s Forbidden Palace. The four levels exhibit treasures in painting, calligraphy, statuary, bronzes, and lacquerware, as well as ceramics, jade and religious objects. The most famous piece is the jade cabbage in Room 304, where the line is longer than at Din Tai Fung. Like the painting of Mona Lisa at the Louvre Museum in Paris, each visitor has a minute to gaze at the famous jade before being moved along by an official.

Wasabi root links Taiwanese food culture to Japanese cuisine.

“Normally, photography is prohibited inside the exhibition halls. The regulation has recently been lifted so you’ve come at the right time,” Som says.

On the last night, we decide to explore Taipei’s night scene and quickly discover that the Taiwanese are hard drinkers. After rounds of toasts at the hotel’s bar, three young Taiwanese men (an hotelier, a pilot and a cosmetic maker) invite the three of us to a karaoke bar. In just a few rounds of toasts, an entire bottle of whiskey disappears. And just before midnight, the cosmetic maker passes out. I cannot claim that Team Thailand is the winner. Indeed, I don’t remember anything after that until Paul, a member of the hotel staff, wakes me up at 9am the following morning. I am late for the meeting, and everyone is waiting.

“I understand,” Paul laughs. When I was younger, I used to ‘lock’ myself in the karaoke bar for three days and three nights.

Buddhist art makes its mark

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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The Longmen Grottoes are inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List as “an outstanding manifestation of human artistic creativity.”

A sculpture of Shaolin Temple’s abbot Da Mo, or Bodhidharma

A tree is used by the monks to practice finger-punching.

The kung fu-training hall in the Shaolin Temple features 48 footprints made by the monks over decades of practise and a mural that shows 500 monks practising martial arts.

Tourists examine the huge caldron in the Shaolin Temple that was once used to cook food.

May 10, 2017 01:00
By Kitchana Lersakvanitchakul
The Nation
Zhengzhou, Henan, China

Only about 80 kilometres apart, the Shaolin Temple and the Longmen Grottoes reflect the contributions. The Religion has made to this part of central China

AFTER A DAY spent in the heady company of Lord Bao and the generals of the Yang Family, it’s only fitting that the next stop on my trip to central China should be the Centre of Heaven and Earth.

Otherwise known as Dengfeng and the best part of two hours by road from Kaifeng, the city is located between Mount Shaoshi and Mount Taishi – the two peaks of Mount Songshan, the most sacred mountain in China. One of the country’s most renowned spiritual centres, it is home to various religious institutions and temples including the Taoist Zhongyue Temple, the Buddhist Shaolin Temple, as well as the Confucian Songyang Academy. With its well-preserved culture and stunning architecture, Dengfeng boasts 11 historic monuments at eight sites, all of them inscribed on Unesco’s World Heritage list.

The Longmen Grottoes are inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List as “an outstanding manifestation of human artistic creativity.”

Schools offering training in kung-fu line the road into Dengfeng, six of them are part of the Zhengzhou Shaolin Tagou Education group. Shaolin Tagou Martial Arts School, Mount-Song Shaolin Martial Arts Vocational College, Shaolin Vocational Middle School, Shaolin High School, Jinta Automobile Driving School, and the Tagou Youth Sports and Martial Arts Club all enjoy high enrolment, suggesting that the martial arts discipline continues to grow in popularity.

“Kung fu wasn’t created for fighting but as an exercise for monks who suffered pain and fatigue after meditating for a long time. Da Mo, or Bodhidharma, introduced these ways of stretching the body by observing the behaviour of several animals including the monkey and tiger.

“These days Chinese parents want their sons to learn discipline, strength and self-sufficiency and send them to study kung-fu. Once they have graduated, the students serve as teachers, soldiers or even performers. They study here from the age of five, learning lessons in the morning and practising kung fu in the afternoon. Before we saw only boys but girls are now being sent here too. And there are quite a few foreigners coming to learn kung fu,” our Thai-speaking Chinese guide explains.

“The Shaolin Temple became famous during the Tang Dynasty, and Shaolin monks famously fought for Li Shimin against the warlord Wang Shichong. At that time, kung fun was a human weapon.”

Young performers show off their kung fu moves.

We join the groups of Chinese tourists queuing to enter Shaolin Monastery. At the entrance gate we have just enough time to take photographs with the statue of Da Mo, abbot of the Shaolin Temple the guide buys our tickets. We decide to walk to the temple buildings though golf carts are provided for those who prefer to ride.

Carved stones inscribed with the names of martial arts groups from all over the world who have made donations for the upkeep of the temple and grounds line the pathway leading to Devaraja or Heavenly Kings Hall, which was razed during the war of 1928 and rebuilt in 1981 based on its original structure. Its gates are guarded by two vajras, General Heng and General Ha. Behind the gate are the four Devarajas, or heavenly kings, namely Huguo, Zhengzhang, Guangmu, and Duowen, along with gingko trees that the monks use to practise finger punching.

“The Shaolin Temple has good feng shui. Looking down from the mountaintop, the temple looks like a lotus because it is surrounded by many lower peaks. Legend has it that Da Mo initially refused to teach the monk Huike even though he knelt in the snow outside Da Mo’s cave all night. In the morning Da Mo came out and said if the snow became red, he would accept him. Huike cut off his left arm and let his blood stain the snow. After Da Mo accepted him as a student, and changed his name from Shenguang to Huike meaning ‘Wisdom and Capacity’. To pay respect for the sacrifice of Huike, disciples and monks of the Shaolin Temple greet each other using only their right hand,” explains the guide.

Wanfo Cave

A huge caldron stands inside the temple area and the guide tells us that it was created in 1576 during the Ming Dynasty. Weighing 650kg and 1.68 metres in diameter, it was used by monks to cook food.

We also get to see the 48 footprints in the floor of a training hall, said to have been made by years of kung- fu practice. The walls meanwhile are covered in murals showing 500 Shaolin monks perfecting their martial arts skills.

We then walk to the Pagoda Forest, once the burial ground for eminent monks and home to 250 tombstones and brick stupas from several dynasties.

Before leaving we watch the 30-minute kung-fu show at the martial arts gym which, despite being highly professional, has an almost Disney-like feel to it.

The Pagoda Forest is often referred to as “the art museum of ancient pagodas”.

Outside the complex we pile back into the coach for the hour-long trip to Luoyang, one of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China and a stop on the ancient Silk Road. It is best known for the Longmen Grottoes, which Unesco describe as “an outstanding manifestation of human artistic creativity” in the World Heritage site literature. A much-loved tourist attraction, we join thousands of Chinese tourists walking through the entrance under Longmen Bridge over the Yi River. The alternative name “Dragon’s Gate Grottoes” derives from the resemblance of the two hills that check the flow of the Yi River to the typical Chinese gate towers that once marked the entrance to Luoyang from the south.

Carved deep into the limestone cliff lining the road that has the river on one side and the Longmen Mountain on the other are 2,345 caverns sheltering as many as 100,000 statues of Buddha and his disciples. Steps have been especially built for visitors to access the higher caves and any vertigo is quickly forgotten as we gaze in awe at these works of art, the smallest of which measures just two centimetres. The largest, the Grand Vairocana Buddha statue is 17.2 metres tall and is believed to have been modelled after the face of Empress Wu Zetian, the only reigning female in Chinese history.

IF YOU GO

>> Thai Smile Airways flies from Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok to Zhengzhou, the capital of Henan province, on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Flight WE680 departs Suvarnabhumi at 2.20am and arrives in Zhengzhou at 7.30am. The return flight WE681 leaves Zhengzhou at 8.30am and lands at Suvarnabhumi at 11.40am.

>> Book your flight at http://www.thaismileair.com

Up close and cosy with Justice Pao

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/news/travel/30314024


The main road to the Dragon Pavilion is decorated with a multitude of red lanterns.


A boy wears a traditional costume and sits on the emperor’s throne.


Dragon Pavilion Park hosts the annual chrysanthemum festival.


Justice Bao prepares to execute Chen Shimei.


Two letters of shisan resemble Lord Bao’s face.


Yang Ye at Tianbo Yang’s Mansion


Xiaolongbao is one of Kaifeng’s signature dishes.

May 03, 2017 01:00
By KITCHANA LERSAKVANITCHAKUL
THE NATION
ZHENGZHOU, HENAN, CHINA

The service offered by Thai Smile from Bangkok to Zhengzhou opens the door to a history lesson for curious visitors

HAVING BEEN fed for much of my adult life on historical Chinese TV series about Justice Pao, the generals of the Yang Family and the Shaolin Temple, I’ve always been curious about these larger-than-life characters and the roles they played in the Song Dynasty. So when Thai Smile Airways launched a new direct route to Zhengzhou, I knew I would at last be able to satisfy my curiosity.

Zhengzhou is the kicking-off point for a visit to Kaifeng in Henan province, the ancient capital of the Liang, Jin, Han, Zhou and Song dynasties but today better known as the city of chrysanthemums thanks to winning a Guinness World Record for a massive 8,000-square-metre carpet of ’mums during its annual Kaifeng Chrysanthemum Fair at Longting Park.

 

Indeed our visit to Kaifeng starts in Longting Park, or Dragon Pavilion Park, on a pleasant April day that despite the sunshine is a little on the cool side for those of us used to hotter climes. The chrysanthemums have yet to bloom but compensating for their absence are several other species that line the main road to the pavilion hall, which is resplendent and imposing. It is an AAAA national scenic spot known for its rich historical relic and beautiful natural landscape.

To the east of the road is the lake of the Family Pan while to the west lies the lake of the Family Yang. Both were prominent clans during the Song dynasty but while that the Yang Family was famed for their loyalty – hence the clear lake – the Pan Family was treacherous and their body of water was muddy and filled with impurities.

 

We walk up the 72-steps to the magnificent building, which is designed in a typical imperial style with yellow-glazed roof, red walls and white stairs. It houses an emperor’s throne and visitors wanting to play ruler for a few hours can rent a traditional costume and sit on a newly built golden throne outside or take a ride in a sedan chair around the pavilion.

Not far from the pavilion is Tianbo Yang, General Yang’s Mansion, which was given to him by Emperor Taizong in recognition of his loyalty. Yang’s story as well as those of his fellow military men are told in “Generals of the Yang Family”, a collection of Chinese folklore, plays and novels that recount the unflinching loyalty and the remarkable bravery of the Yangs as they sacrificed themselves to defend their country from foreign military powers, namely the Khitan-ruled Liao Dynasty and Tangut-ruled Western Xia. The mostly fictional saga is based on the lives of historical characters Yang Ye, Yang Ye’s son Yang Yanzhao and Yang Yanzhao’s son Yang Wenguang.

 

The popularity of the stories has led to the building of numerous memorial sites including temples and tombs over the centuries to commemorate these heroes. One of those sites is Tianbo Yang in Kaifeng, which was built in 1992 as a tourist attraction. The location, it is said, was chosen based on records written in the 14th century.

The main house has waxworks of Yang Ye and his wife She Taiju, their sons as well as other prominent personages. We are startled out of our reverie by an old woman crying and singing songs in front of the main house.

After a break for a lunch of xiaolongbao, those famous steamed buns stuffed with juicy pork and a Kaifeng speciality, we move on to the Memorial Temple of Lord Bao.

 

It was constructed in memory of Bao Zheng who is idealised as an upright and honest official and a political reformer in the Song Dynasty. He was given the name Xiaoshu posthumously by Emperor Renzhong of the Song Dynasty.

The temple consists of a central building with two wings attached. Lord Bao Hall boasts a huge statue of Lord Bao sitting on a chair and judging by the crowds is a popular tourist attraction for local tourists. To the west is a gallery exhibiting “The Book of Bao Genealogy”, artefacts, Family Instructions and some books.

Our Thai-speaking Chinese guide asks us if we can identify Lord Bao’s name on the stone inscription. We have no idea but assume it’s sunk under the surface after being prodded by millions tourists.

“People who have bad behaviour don’t dare point at this stone inscription. If their finger becomes black, everybody knows how bad they are,” says the guide, causing us all to bury our hands in our pockets,

 

Two of the letters of shisan have been transformed into a Lord Bao lookalike, meaning his justice is as great as a mountain.

Another hall houses sculptures of Lord Bao, his personal secretary Gongsun Ce and four enforcers Wang Zhao, Ma Han, Zhang Long and Zhao Hu as well as a set of three guillotines given to him by the emperor to execute criminals. The one used for commoners has a dog’s head while that for government officials boasts a tiger’s head and for royalty, a dragon’s head. Bao Zheng removed his official headwear to challenge the empress dowager, in order to execute the prince consort Chen Shimei, an unfaithful husband and a vicious and dishonest scholar. Unsurprisingly, “The Case of Executing Chen Shimei” is most of the popular of the 236 episodes aired on TV.

Of course, there are some differences between the reality and the TV series. In real life, Bao Zheng was dark-skinned and extremely ugly though he didn’t have a white crescent shaped birthmark on his forehead, which he inevitably gets in the TV series.

IF YOU GO

– Thai Smile Airways flies from Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok to Zhengzhou, the capital of Henan province, on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Flight WE680 departs Suvarnabhumi at 2.20am and arrives in Zhengzhou at 7.30am. The return flight WE681 leaves Zhengzhou at 8.30am and lands at Suvarnabhumi at 11.40am.

– For more informaiton and make a booking, please visit http://www.thaismileair.com.

First Chinese tour group to enter Kingdom via Mekong River

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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May 02, 2017 13:03
By Nattawat Laping
The Nation

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Trang’s inland treasures

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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The old city walls take on an extra dimension with murals like this one showing Emerald Cave.

Ko Daeng helps run a programme that takes visitors around the area in frog-nosed tuk tuks.

Artisans at Baan Na Por make knives that are in professional demand around the country.

Ko Tin

April 26, 2017 01:00
By Pattarawadee Saengmanee
The Nation 

Chill and thrills in Bandung

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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I wish I could look as cool as the millennials before me, but my knees wobble.

The Amazing Art World museum boasts a dozen photo zones featuring everything from menacing dinosaurs to a giant octopus to Santa Claus on a sleigh pulled by cute reindeer.

April 19, 2017 01:00
By Arlina Arshad
The Straits Times
Asia News Network

A real-life wonderland

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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Terraced rice fields, Tsuzura Tanada in Ukiha city.

Yoshii Town’s Tourist Centre

Historical waterways run through all area.

A shop selling Japanese in Budo No Tane

April 19, 2017 01:00
By Panisa Choosangsri
Special to The Nation
Ukiha, Japan

A splashing good time

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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One of the traditional rituals during Songkran is

One of the traditional rituals during Songkran is
April 12, 2017 01:00
By The Nation

Colourful Songkran parades to educate and entertain

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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April 08, 2017 11:55
By The Nation

Hanoi encouraged to create more attractive tourism products

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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April 08, 2017 10:17
By Viet Nam News/ANN