On a cyclo, you, the passenger, sit up front in the bucket seat with nothing coming between you and the madness that is Hanoi’s traffic. Meanwhile, the cyclo driver is sitting snugly behind you, secure in the knowledge that he has you acting as an airbag should anything happen.

Things get especially hairy when the cyclo driver rides headlong into a throng of motorcycles, some of which are not travelling in your direction.

The Old Quarter is Hanoi’s heart of commerce dating back to the 13th century, its streets named after the trades that set up shop there. Hang Bac, which means Silver Street, for example, was and still is a street lined with silversmiths. Other streets, however, now feature trades other than what they were named for.

So in the tree-lined, motorcycle- clogged lanes, you can find streets selling musical instruments, festive decorations, or even gravestones. Other sights include street hawkers cooking on tiny stoves and women selling pyramids of oranges, strawberries and fresh flowers from baskets or the back of bicycles.

In our cyclo, we glided past tourists sitting on little stools at corner coffee shops and overtook women selling gigantic bunches of Minion and Hello Kitty helium balloons. (Which BBC clamoured to buy, but by the time he made his plea, we had already left the balloon sellers behind. Tough.)

To get a closer, less death-defying look at the Old Quarter, the three of us took a walking tour of the area with Hidden Hanoi (www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn), whose guide gave us a primer on the history and architectural style of the Old Quarter. The area is filled with old buildings nicknamed tube houses because their profiles are long and narrow, up to 70m long but only 2m wide. Some tube houses have been converted into shops, but others remain for residential use. The guide took us to a very old and gloomy tube house, into which eight families were crammed, each occupying a room smaller than a bedroom in an HDB flat. All the families shared a tiny common kitchen and an even tinier bathroom and wash area.

It was getting a little grim, so the guide added, perhaps from personal experience: “You get used to living with so many people. Everyone knows everyone’s business. And when you move out, you actually miss your neighbours.”

And then, just as my group was filing out of the house through its narrow corridor, a motorcycle inexplicably appeared and cut through the house to get to the other side, forcing us to scramble onto tiny ledges on the walls to avoid getting our toes run over.

After leaving the house, we went to a street-side market, where something caught my son’s eye. He squatted by a styrofoam box on a kerb containing squirming worms in shades of beige and pink, each as thick as a finger. Thinking that maybe the Vietnamese were really big on fish pets and bought these worms as fish food, I asked the guide about them.

“For eating,” said the guide. “Stir-fried with egg.”

Also worth checking out in the Old Quarter is the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org), which puts on water puppet shows several times a day. The Vietnamese artform, which features colourful wooden puppets manipulated by performers standing waist-deep in a pool of water and hidden behind a screen, dates back to the 11th century when villagers staged performances in flooded padi fields to celebrate the harvest.

If you are taking small children to the theatre, try to get seats in the first row for an unblocked view but do buy your tickets early because seats fill up quickly.

The 45-minute production we watched was a rowdy and fun-filled affair featuring flame-snorting dragons, wooden boys spinning in basket boats and funny skits starring leaping fishes and wily foxes.

BBC could barely contain his questions: How is it possible for the dragon to surface from underwater while simultaneously breathing out flames and sparks? How did the fox leap from the water up onto the tree? Where are the puppeteers hiding? And, what is it like to be in a job that involves being wet all the time?

Meanwhile, a toddler on my right was furiously punching and kicking the air during the climactic parts. On my left, BBC was squealing and clapping. I wanted to stand on my seat and shout: “Bravo! Encore!”

About 10 minutes’ walk from the theatre is Luong Van Can Street, more commonly known as Toy Street as it is populated with all manner of toy shops. It is as interesting for kids and for grown- ups: Trust me, we visited this road five times during our trip.

On our first visit, my husband and son went from shop to shop comparing boxes of plastic construction bricks and studying the pictures on the boxes like they were university prospectuses. There were endless deliberations. Should they get a crime-fighting vehicle set that fired missiles, or one that builds a ninja city and comes with flying discs with serrated edges?

With the patience of a saint, I waited for the boys to make up their minds. And waited.

By the fifth visit, I had lost it. Why were we spending the entire holiday lurking at toy shops? I snapped.

As with all arguments, there were two sides to the story. My stand was that I must have spent hours at the toy shops. My husband insists it took no more than an hour in total.

The winner here was, of course, BBC, who walked away with an armful of toys that we would never have bought in Singapore.

All I can say is, if you have kids with you, you, too, can make them very happy at Toy Street. Just make sure you set a time limit for all the kids (the big ones too, such as spouses).

If the exhaust fumes and non- stop honking from motorcycles overwhelm you or your child, one place to retreat to is Hoan Kiem Lake, the focal point of Hanoi and a short walk from the Old Quarter.

Despite being in the centre of the action, the lake is an oasis of calm, where trees with overhanging branches dip into its waters.

BBC enjoyed being at the lake because there was space to run about and expend his energy. And he especially loved the doughnut hawkers – women selling basketfuls of deep-fried sugar-glazed fritters.

I managed to resist the first two times they came around pushing their basket of goodies under our noses. But when the third hawker came by with those deep-fried sugar-coated babies, I caved.

Another nice chill-out spot is Cafe Nola (www.facebook.com/Nola.cafe.inhanoi), an eatery hidden in the upper levels of a tube house in the Old Quarter. The cosy little garden on its rooftop was nice, but what really gave the place a touch of whimsy was a canopy of about a dozen open umbrellas hanging from a frame. BBC spent ages dashing in and out from under them, playing some imaginary game he devised.

Cafe Nola was also home to two cats who were not at all shy about creeping up your chair or jumping onto your table. Between the cats and the umbrella canopy, BBC was distracted long enough for my husband and I to sit back to drink coffee and enjoy the view of the surroundings from the rooftop.

So, despite the chaos and the motorcycle madness that is Hanoi’s Old Quarter, it can be a place that children, too, will dig.

Back in Singapore, besides enjoying his spoils from the toy shops, BBC still speaks fondly of the cyclos.

And yes, he still wants another ride in those vehicles of near death.

To reach Phuket, we pass Pattani, Narathiwat, Yala, Songkhla, Pattalung, Krabi, Trang and Phang Nga.

We’re rather impressed at the start of the journey by the road we’re on; though it can’t accurately be called a highway as it winds through major towns where we have to stop for traffic lights, it is well-maintained and – get this – toll free!

It was this area that bore the brunt of the centuries-long civil war between the Pattani Sultanate and Siamese kings, who eventually forced the region into submission. Thousands of Pattani Malays died, from as early as the 16th century until the region was officially annexed between 1902 and 1909 under the 1909 Anglo Siamese Treaty signed between the Kingdom of Thailand and Britain.

Then, about a decade or so ago, more than 8,000 lives were lost in what was said to be insurgent attacks by armed Pattani guerillas who wanted the south to secede from Thailand.

There were bombings, deaths from IEDs (improvised explosive devices) planted everywhere and rampant shootings in Sungai Golok, Hatyai, Pattani and Yala. While it was never proven, drug cartels were said to have been behind the attacks, which took more than 50,000 troops sent from Bangkok to quell.

Today, Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat are considered the most underdeveloped provinces in Thailand.

“These provinces have had a Muslim population as long as I can remember,” says Consul Azman Taepoh, adding, “Pattani was ruled by Muslim Sultans and, naturally, the people are Muslim and live by the Islamic code today.”

The common perception nowadays is that Muslims in these districts reject development. Or that the laid-back atmosphere means that the people here are backward, says Azman, a native of Pattani. But that’s not true.

It’s just that the majority of the population does not want any “vice-related” development, they are only interested in conducting legitimate, halal, business. They prefer farming, running small businesses like grocery shops, livestock breeding and aquamarine ventures, he says.

“That is why the Thailand government is pushing for a halal hub, to get the population to participate. This has been the government’s main thrust since the violence erupted in 2002,” explains Azman over lunch after a meeting with provincial district leaders in downtown Pattani.

Azman adds that there are many natural areas that can be developed into tourist attractions but, for security reasons, the Thai government is not encouraging that right now.

Instead, Pattani’s annual revenue of 20 million Thai baht (RM2.3mil) will be boosted by developing a halal industry that could become an important hub linking Kunming in South China and Malaysia.

As we continue our journey north, Phuket’s busyness is foreshadowed by the increasing number of houses, buildings and commercial activities as we approach Hatyai.

Trang

After six hours on the road, we reach Trang province, a heaven for sun and sea worshippers. The former seaport, now a bustling town of 680,000 people, draws tourists and their money with the 44 islands that lie off its coast.

We don’t stop, though, and continue on to Pattalung in our 12th hour, with night falling.

As we approach Phuket, the night sky brightens, lit up by the city’s many nightspots. At midnight we reach our hotel, the Royal Paradise, smack in the middle of Phuket’s red light district of Patong Beach.

As we tour the area the next day, our guide and van driver Deli points out that the hotels and resorts lining Patong Beach stand in the same area that appeared in many videos – including National Geographic’s special report – showing the devastating waves that claimed more than 8,000 lives during the Asian tsunami in 2004.

Deli also claims that rooms in some of these new places erected where people had been killed are closed because … they’re haunted!

“Some of the residents and also hotel patrons claim to have seen floors covered in water and the pale, dead bodies of drowned victims lying on the floor,” says Deli, adding while we zip past an empty resort that the areas in which these haunted hotels stand have been left poorly lit because not many people go there.

Although I am sceptical about the stories, I’m game when one of our group suggests sleeping in the area to find out if the ghosts are real. But our packed itinerary puts paid to the intriguing idea, unfortunately.

Though I am an excited first-time visitor to this famous 535sq km island, there is really nothing that I can say about Phuket that has not already been written about by countless writers and travellers in magazines and on blogs. Though perhaps the number of tourists is new – they have been steadily increasing over the past few years. Slightly more than 12 million tourists visited Phuket last year, with China arrivals topping the number of visitors followed by people from Europe; Malaysians were in 10th spot. (See “Major boost to tourism” below.)

We are to cap the day off with a sunset experience at Promthep Cape, about 40km south of our hotel. Watching the sun disappearing over the horizon with the spectacular play of bright orange and red colours reflected in the sea is not an experience to be missed. In fact, the beautiful Promthep Cape is a place that’s photographed even more than the famous James Bond Island, which is 45 minutes off the coast here. The island with beautiful, sheer limestone cliffs became world-renowned after being used as a location in the 1974 Bond movie, The Man With The Golden Gun.

Phuket

Phuket at night is party central at Patong Beach, of course, especially along Bangla Road. While I never do find out why the road is named as such, I do find it a sight to behold: a 400m stretch lined with tattoo parlours, live bands, pole dancing clubs and peddlers of the so-called tiger shows, all selling their experiences into the wee hours. This is not a place for the depressed!

We leave after four days in Phuket, and while I carry away many impressions about the Land of Smiles, the strongest one is how it’s wonderful to see areas that had been so tragically affected by those waves are as vibrant as ever – and how life goes on despite tragedies, sorrow or political turmoil.

Phuket will see major changes to cope with the climbing numbers of visitors in the next three years, with the injection of one trillion Thai baht (RM117.4bil) to upgrade its infrastructure.

Arguably Thailand’s most popular area, Phuket was visited by 12.5 million tourists from 10 nations last year. In comparison, 25 million tourists visited Malaysia in the same period – which means Phuket had a concentration of visitors nearly half of the number in Malaysia within its tiny 535sqkm.

Phuket Tourism Authority of Thailand director Anom Vongyai says the allocation is needed to improve road infrastructure (including the construction of two road tunnels) and an expansion of Phuket International Airport, which needs another terminal to cope with the passenger load.

“Phuket has reached a saturation level in terms of tourist capacity, and we have to prepare proper infrastructure to cope with the influx of visitors,” says Anom.

“As it is, we expect to face a shortfall in the water supply, which comes from a dam catching water from three small waterfalls on the island.

“We need to find other water resources to meet the demand,” she tells reporters during a weekend visit to the area organised by the Royal Thailand Consulate-General office in Kota Baru, with its consul, Azman Taepoh, also on hand.

When Anom is asked whether Phuket is losing its charms to commercialisation chasing tourist dollars, she is quick to point out that Phuket – and Thailand, generally – is still known as the Land of Smiles.

“Of course, things here are getting more expensive by the year but we have not lost our identity as a people of warmth that is central to our culture.

“Change is inevitable but we have not lost our sense of hospitality, and this is proven by the increasing number of tourists,” she says.

Chang, 44, and his business partner Lum Heng Soon, 43, own three luxury guesthouses in Malacca. The first, called 45 Lekiu, was opened in 2010, followed by The Stable and Opposite Place.

“All our properties are beautiful pre-war buildings that – through either neglect or haphazard renovations – have lost their identity. It amazes me what you find once you start tearing down the extensions and scrape off the layers of paintwork.

“After my tertiary education, I was managing one of Sydney’s best known boutique hotels. It was my wish then to own something similar,” says Chang, who graduated with a Bachelor of Arts (Sociology) from La Trobe University Melbourne, Australia.

“Now I am able to fulfil that dream of running boutique guesthouses where luxury and chic come hand in hand.”

When he’s not busy with the guesthouses, Chang works as a freelance fashion stylist for TV commercials.

Not surprisingly, Chang’s work in fashion has influenced his aesthetics when it comes to the properties.

“A fashion stylist creates a story through clothes, props, photography and lighting; every shoot tells a different story,” explains Chang.

“The same applies to the guesthouses, which bring you back to a bygone era of a pre-war period; albeit a more comfortable and luxurious one. We strive to recreate the glamour of the period with details like romantic louvre windows and doors, Baba and Nyonya furnishing, imposing chandeliers and charming courtyards.”

As a fashion stylist, attention to details is crucial during a shoot, according to Chang.

“I apply the same rule when managing the guesthouses – the placement of the towels, the mood of lighting in the rooms, the choice of artwork and sculptures – every minor detail needs to be in place to enhance the enjoyment of our guest.”

Chang adds: “When I am on shoots, reacting quickly to potential problems is crucial. This problem solving reflex also applies to the day-to-day running of the guesthouses.”

As his properties are relatively small, the daily operation is fairly easy. “We pride ourselves in giving guests their privacy, therefore we do not intrude on them. They are given the keys and shown around the property and after that, we leave them alone to enjoy themselves. Unless they require something, we do not intrude except for housekeeping chores. As such, we only need a small army of staff to keep the places running.”

Occupying a pre-war 1941 Art Deco building, 45 Lekiu has three levels which are meticulously restored, with two bedrooms. Guests get the full run of the property which feature a tranquil lap pool, a spacious bathroom (complete with bath tub) and an inspired mix of contemporary pieces and centuries-old furnishing (including a Chinese opium bed).

The Stable – as its moniker suggests – was previously used as a horse stable for wealthy merchants. The space is decorated with pop art posters, mid-century and Oriental furnishings. Opposite Place is situated directly opposite 45 Lekiu; it features two individually appointed rooms and a cafe on the ground floor.

“45 Lekiu and The Stable have been operating for a few years and are rather established in the market,” explains Chang.

“Opposite Place is relatively new so we are putting our efforts into promoting this property before we start thinking about expansion.”

When it comes to his working relationship with Lum, Chang says: “We have been friends for about 20 years. We got to know each other from our commercial shoots where I did the styling and he did the art direction.”

Chang manages the staff and marketing while Lum keeps an eye on the upkeep of the guesthouses.

“There is no clear definition of our roles, as our responsibilities often overlap. We also have a wonderful hotel manager to help us with the daily running,” muses Chang.

“We play our parts well, so the working relationship is a mutually beneficial one,” concurs Lum, who designs props and sets for TV productions.

Asked to name the most challenging aspect of running the guesthouses, Lum replies: “The maintenance of wooden structures is in itself a challenge. As the wood constantly deteriorates, we have to replace them; if we replace them with concrete, the charm is lost.”

Chang adds: “The main challenge is to keep guests happy so that they stay with us again the next time they are in Malacca.”

Speaking of the historial city, Chang – who is based in Kuala Lumpur – regularly travels to Malacca to check on his properties.

“A favourite place of mine in Malacca is the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum which showcases the Peranakan heritage. I also walk around the heritage area to see what treasures I can find or afford at the antique shops.”

Otherwise Chang prefers to while away the hours in one of his luxurious guesthouses. And who can blame him?

Apek Hill offers a good hike through beautiful terrain with a mix of flat and steep paths woven with tree roots. Huge trees provide shade, while streams and waterfalls are good places to cool off.

Along the way, you can enjoy the endless soundtrack of chattering monkeys, chirping birds, squawking hornbills and buzzing crickets. Lush greenery, unique mushrooms, beetles and butterflies welcome you to the jungle. This is nature at its best, just a stone’s throw from the city.

Being unfit (we had just started our new hiking hobby for a month then), the trail seemed long and unending, going up and down the hills. We took the trail from Awana Cheras all the way to Stations 1, 3 and 5 (these spots have been long established there by volunteers, such is the popularity of this place) and then hiked all the way down to the waterfall.

Being first timers, we were unsure of the way, but fortunately we met a helpful regular hiker, Tony, who led us in. Our kids were elated when they finally saw the waterfall, and all of a sudden they did not seem tired anymore! We delighted ourselves splashing about in the refreshing waters.

After a few hikes, another regular hiker told us about a shorter route via Bukit Hatamas and we started inviting our friends to join us. Most who came along were first-timers and non-hikers, and many found the hike exhausting. But they were very happy when they eventually reached the waterfall.

We had heard about a huge, majestic tree in Apek Hill next to a lovely stream. When we found it one day, I was so enthralled by its beauty that I wrote a poem about it. Unfortunately, the tree is no longer standing there.

Late last year, my heart felt heavy after seeing disturbing images on social media of Apek Hill being bulldozed, its greens ripped apart into a swathe of yellow soil. It was hard to believe. So my hubby and I, along with some friends, set out one morning to see for ourselves.

My heart cried tears when I saw the hill with my own eyes. A great number of beautiful trees were gone and Apek Hill laid bare before our eyes. Hiking under the hot, scorching sun at 3pm, our sweat dripped down. We used to laugh and joke throughout our previous hikes, but this time, there was only silence.

I had heard that the clearing was because Tenaga Nasional Berhad (TNB) needed to build new electrical pylons. I decided to write an email to them, to highlight the concern and distress of many other regular hikers. We strongly feel that the few places of natural beauty around Kuala Lumpur should be preserved to be enjoyed by all.

The reply from TNB came from an officer named Md Derus Bunchit:

Dear Jessy,

The forest reserve is being cleared to allow the construction of the transmission line to the Mahkota Cheras Main Sub-Station by TNB. It is carried out by a contractor appointed by the Selangor Forestry Department.

The width of the clearing is 4 chain (80 meters) in the forest reserve. This width is to cater for the danger of trees that may collapse onto the electrical pylons.

The plans were presented to the Selangor state government in December 2011. The logging works are closely monitored by the Selangor Forestry Department.

TNB shall undertake all the control measures during the construction of the transmission line to ensure that the noise, dust and other environmental issues i.e. landslides, stagnant water, surface run off etc. will not cause any discomfort or health risk to the adjacent residential areas.

How has this affected the hikers? We no longer enjoy a shady hike throughout the hill. The land clearing can also become rather muddy and slippery in heavy rain. Herman Ho, 59, whom we met along our hike, said the pylons only measure about 12m x 12m and asked why the land clearing had to be so massive. He said that the trees which were sacrificed were very good trees.

As a hiker mum, not only am I am sad about the massive clearing done on Apek Hill. I am also totally disheartened to learn that the nearby hiking havens of Saga Hill and Ketumbar Hill are showing signs of future forest chopping.

There are not many green lungs left near the city of Kuala Lumpur. Deep in my heart, I hope that steps will be taken to preserve them to prevent flash floods and landslides, and for everyone to have fresh air and healthy exercise.

The hills and forests are our heritage, let’s choose to preserve them for our future generations.

Upon entering, visitors will be greeted by a vibrant and beautiful arch, welcoming them to the new village which is also known as Kampung Bahagia or Happy Village.

According to Kampung Baru Sungai Jarom village head Seh Chun Huat, the Happy Village concept was implemented in 2015 during Chinese New Year celebrations.

“The Happy Village concept was initiated to promote a harmonious village by instilling family values among the locals.

“It was launched simultaneously with the festive season as it was the best time to share joy, and also to let visitors know about this concept,” he said.

Seh explained that the new village was set up and fenced up to separate villagers from the communist insurgents during British rule in the 1950s.

“Villagers lived by the curfew and before they were let out to work in rubber plantations and tin mines in the morning, they would be searched for food, weapons or messages for the communists,” he said.

Seh, now 63 years old, was brought to the new village by his mother along with his siblings from Tanjung Karang, when he was just seven years old.

Today, the village has a population of 30,000 with 90 per cent from the Hokkien community.

There is a mix of traditional and modern structures within the village. While some upgraded their homes to brick houses to enjoy modern comforts, there are still well maintained wooden ones dotting the landscape.

With agriculture as the main industry, Seh said that home-roasted coffee was once very popular.

“There is only one household left producing coffee. Other local produce include palm oil and young ginger,” he said, adding that his ginger harvest was sent to Ipoh daily.

About 60 per cent of the villagers are still in the agriculture industry, and the remaining run businesses such as small eateries or enterprises.

Ling Sing Seng, 44, moved to the new village from Setiawan, Perak, in 1997 with his wife Ong Yuet Choo, 43, and started their own dim sum restaurant called Jenjarom Tea House.

“The people here are very warm and treat everyone nicely even though you are not a local,” said the father of three.

“We serve homemade dim sum catering to the locals mostly on weekdays and tourists during the weekends,” he said, adding that cyclists from Shah Alam usually gathered at his restaurant after the long ride.

Seh pointed out that there were more than 40 temples, big and small, within the village.

“Forty years ago, there used to be only one temple where everyone gathered but after about 20 years, devotees started to set up their own temples,” Seh said, adding that there was an average of two to three temples on each street.

The most iconic temple is the Fo Guang Shan Dong Zen Temple, which is also a famous tourist attraction.

Seh explained that the inception of the Buddhist temple in 1994 had helped boost the new village’s economy as the tourism industry started to flourish.

“The land is approximately 11.331ha to 12.140ha, and it is always well-decorated with lanterns and lights during Chinese New Year,” he added.

The temple is beautifully landscaped, along with other components including the main shrine hall, tea house, cultivation centre and art gallery which houses the exhibition hall, a sutra calligraphy hall and also a relics shrine.

A visit during Chinese New Year has become a tradition for some of the locals as well as visitors.

A 15-day Chinese New Year celebration will be held at the temple with different themes each year.

“It is very crowded during the festive period as everyone is back and visitors come to visit the temple.

“The traffic congestion can stretch up to 5km, involving 4,000 to 5,000 cars towards the temple while tourists in the area can total up to 50,000 visitors, including tour buses,” Seh said.

In conjunction with the annual Chinese New Year Festival of Light and Peace, the temple organised an art contest themed Jenjarom Happy Village – Village Sentiments this year.

Participants were required to submit their artwork based on their interpretation of Jenjarom Happy Village.

“Apart from just organising a contest, this initiative was also carried out to instil the values of togetherness and harmony among villagers.

“And to discover the hidden talents of Jenjarom,” said art gallery executive director and curator Venerable You Hang, adding that one of the winning pieces was created by a woman who traded at the market.

In addition to the art contest, a photography contest was also held for both locals and visitors to share their pictures that capture heart-warming moments at the temple during the festive period, which garnered 200 submissions.

Winning artworks for both contests are being exhibited at the temple’s Fo Guang Yuan Art Gallery until March 27, before the next exhibition is rolled out.

After a quick trip of about 15 minutes, my right foot touched the soil of Done Det Island. But although I am a native Lao and was back home in my own backyard, I felt like a foreign tourist because almost everyone in front of me came from another country.

Back in 2006, my first ever visit to Done Det and Done Khone islands, it was quite exciting to see Western tourists. These two communities had become magnets for both Lao and foreign tourists, even though the number of visitors was relatively low.

Local authorities in Khong district aim to vastly improve services in the area in a bid to swell the number of domestic and international tourist arrivals.

Improvements are expected to start among tour operators, accommodation and restaurants because they are the key drivers in boos ting visitors to the Si Phan Done or 4000 Islands area.

Governor of Khong district Mr Sanan Siphaphommachan told Vientiane Times recently the development of tourist facilities is vital because tourism plays a critical role in the socio-economic development of the district, which encompasses many of these islands.

“Our plan targets economic growth of 8 percent from 2016-20, and tourism will play a key role in that growth,” Mr Sanan said.

In 2015, more than 400,000 people visited the area. The majority were Lao, who comprised 58 percent of the total, while the rest came from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Cambodia and various European countries.

“We expect that more than 500,000 tourists will come to Khong district this year, which will contribute to the rapid growth of our economy,” Mr Sanan added.

Khong district has three main attractions for tourists, including the Khonephapheng and Somph amit waterfalls on the Mekong River. But boat trips are increasingly popular so that visitors can observe island life and enjoy being out in the fresh air.

Done Det is the starting point for a truck service to Done Kho ne and Hangkhone villages. The truck carries a maximum of 13 people and costs 270,000 kip per round trip. For the more energetic, bicycles are available at most guesthouses and bungalows, with the cheapest price being 10,000 kip per bike per day.

Khong Island, the largest of the islands, now has a bridge connecting it to the mainland, making it much easier for visitors to get to the island from the capital of Champassak province, Pakxe.

The bridge, co-funded by the governments of Laos and China, was officially opened to traffic at the end of 2014 after construction began in mid-2012.

Visitors can spend a couple of days and nights on this larger and more developed island, where they can stay in comfortable hotels, guesthouses and villas with more modern facilities.

In the morning, the best start to the day, after the obligatory cup of locally produced coffee, is a bicycle tour of Khong Island. This provides views of the extensive rice fields and serene hills that form the backbone of the island.

The remaining old wooden buildings, stupas and temples are still well-preserved by local communities.

But to explore the 4000 Islands and get a true feeling for the area, a couple of days is nothing like enough and it may take a couple of weeks to get some understanding of the daily life of the islanders and fishermen, and to fully benefit from the glories of nature.

Nowadays the green spaces are shrinking and garbage pollution is increasing, but the natural beauty of Done Det and Done Khone remains magical and basically hasn’t changed since my first visit. In the near future, I will return for another revitalising holiday here as an island man and will again recall my childhood memories.

This was my first thought before setting off to Dong Doi, in Ha Lang District, of Cao Bang Province. I actually underestimated this place before reaching there. All the impressions about the trip were imprinted in my mind, inspiring me more for the bigger adventures ahead.

Dong Doi is referred to by locals in the region as ‘Ca Khao’, which means a bat. It is 930 metres (m) in depth with an average height of around 60m to 80m, and is located in Lung Rum Village, of Dong Loan Commune, in Ha Lang area, Cao Bang Province. The cave is hidden under the forest foliage and rocky edges that are easy to totter up.

Dong Doi is situated inside the limestone mountain range, 700m away from the main road. It is relatively large with a depth around 1,000m, approximately 40m in height with the unique tectonic structure, colourful stalactite spreading throughout the cave. There are three chambers and two levels, separated from each other by the rock cliffs and holes.

It is like a whole new world isolated from the surroundings. Being here is playing hide-and-seek with reality.

Stepping into the first chamber, I was impressed by the traces of the water springs. In the rainy season, a stream of crystal clear water, about 0.5m deep and 2m wide flows along the cave. This chamber has the lowest ceiling, even only 4m at some spots. Huge rock slabs stacked on each other show off their beautiful colours. The stalactites here look like silver and golden falls. On the ground, they resemble giant pie crusts holding water inside.

Going deeper into the cave, the tourists will surely be surprised by the stalactite structure uniquely formed resembling the terraced fields full of shining bright rice plants, regionally called “the fairy’s field”. Besides, there are hundreds of stalactites hanging down softly resembling an attractive curtain. This second chamber is about 200m long, with a sandy ground. The cave sides adorned by the stalactites look like the classic Chinese landscape painting with mountains, rivers, and forest.

“The chamber is an extraordinary blend of the stalactite formation and deep water springs. The air inside the cave is cool and it is hauntingly quiet here.” Johnny Han, an American tourist commented.

From the second chamber, I go 300m further into the cave to reach the third chamber, the core of the cave. There are two separate levels in this chamber. The first level is quite large, 10.000sq.m and 80m in height with the uniquely formed rocks that really add mystery to the place. To reach the second level, I have to climb along the rock cliff that is about 10m high. This level resembles a half moon with an average height around 60m. The terraced rock field is spread amidst the chamber’s centre. The ceiling in the east is decorated with the stalactites hanging down, which accentuate the stalactites on the ground. The end of the second level is a collection of the shiny golden rocks that help stabilise the ceiling. It can be said that the spacious second floor really elevates the structural beauty of Dong Doi.

If you have a chance to visit Cao Bang for a few days, Dong Doi in Ha Lang is a site worth visiting besides other famous spots such as Ba Be Lake, Ban Gioc Waterfall, or Nguom Ngao Cave.

“It is like escaping from the real world to a cool, mysterious, sparkly yet quiet world,” foreign tourist Anna Smith told me when saying goodbye to Dong Doi to return to the city.

At sunset, 15 young men played gamelan instruments at a brisk tempo. Meanwhile, other youngsters standing opposite a field were burning dry coconut fibers, taking only five minutes to set the heap alight.

A gripping atmosphere prevailed as two main lights in the location were turned off.

Amid the chaos, two youths picked up pieces of blazing coconut husks with their bare hands. One of them threw the burning material at the other’s back, which was retaliated with a toss at the face. In the dark, the fire battle between the youths created an intriguing spectacle.

They were laughing and rejoicing in the ritual. “I’ve practiced this tradition since I attended senior high school. I feel no pain and heat during the battle, it’s just warm and exciting,” said Wayan Ekayana. The pain sets in the day after.

“We usually treat injuries with shredded turmeric and coconut oil, which helps them heal within three days,” he said.

Jasri village in Karangasem has a similar tradition called Ter-teran which is also held on pengerupukan, the eve of Nyepi.

On the same day, Bali’s Hindu community also organizes a parade of ogoh-ogoh (giant effigies), a manifestation of Bhuta Kala in fearsome form. The ogoh-ogoh are eventually burned to visualize the neutralization of negative forces.

After all the rituals, a new moment begins. When everything becomes quiet, the whole community is invited to enter the Day of Silence with brand new vigor as they hope to discover the true meaning of life for humanity and the entire universe.

1. Kampung Sumangkap Gong Factory, Kudat, Sabah

Listen to the beat of the gongs in this gong factory in Sabah’s northern town of Kudat. Located 140km (or two hours by road) from Kota Kinabalu, this village provides insight into the gong-making process, with various workshops organised by the skilled Rungus craftsmen of the village.

Open daily from 8.30am to 5.30pm, including public holidays.

Admission fee is RM5 (adults), RM3 (children), and free for children below six years of age.

2. Kedah Paddy Museum, Alor Setar, Kedah

Located in the Rice Bowl state of Malay-sia, this is the only padi museum in the country. Located on Jalan Gunung Keriang, Alor Setar, this three-storey museum has unique architecture with repetitive padi stalk motifs on the building’s roof. It is a tribute to the history of padi cultivation in Malaysia and countries around the world. Visitors will also learn about the taboos and legends of padi-planting.

The museum’s highlight is the rotating viewing deck for the murals painted by Korean artists.

Open daily from 9am to 5pm (closed noon to 2.30pm on Fridays). Admission is RM3 (adults), RM1 (children from seven to 12). There is an additional charge of RM2 for the use of cameras.

3. Teluk Bahang Forest Park, Penang

This forest park is approximately 40 minutes’ drive from George Town, with views of the sandy beaches of Batu Ferringhi along the way. You can enjoy a relaxing stroll on the footpaths provided by the management in this serene forest.

If you are game for something more challenging, you can go on the hiking trail that will lead you further into the forest of Penang Hill. After a tiring hike or walk, you can soak in the refreshing pristine pool and waterfall in the park.

Other facilities in this park are campsites and picnic areas. The park is accessible via public transportation from George Town on Bus 101 from Komtar Bus Terminal.

The park is open daily from 9am to 5pm (closed noon to 2.45pm on Fridays).

Entrance to the park is free.

4. District of Besut, Terengganu

There are a couple of places that are well-trodden in Terengganu but not many give Besut the time of day. We thank Star2 reader Alia Hazmin for the tip-off. Beaches? Try Pantai Dendung, a pebbled beach, or five minutes away Pantai Bukit Keluang where there are water sports or hike up to Bukit Keluang for fantastic views of the place.

You can have breakfast at Nasi Ayah Su Jat located at Kuala Besut Jetty with great views of the boats sailing past and street art in the background. At Pantai Air Tawar, lunch awaits you at Pak Awie Nasir Air where the traditional porridge called Nasi Air is supposed to be scrumptious.

Interestingly, the old film Hikayat Merong Mahawangsa was filmed on the golden sandy beach here.

5. Gunung Gading National Park, Lundu, Sarawak

Located in Lundu, 32km from Kuching, this park was named after the legendary and mythical Princess Gading (one of the guardians of three mountain peaks here). If you are lucky, you may sight the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia.

This park is also home to a wide range of wildlife, such as wild boar, monkeys and porcupines.

Adventure-seekers may want to hike along any of the three nature trails to enjoy the beauty of the Malaysian rainforest. The waterfalls are another attraction.

Visitors who wish to stay overnight should book the hostel accommodation prior to arrival.

General admission fee is RM10 for Sarawakians and RM20 for non-Sarawakians.

Open from 8am to 5pm.

The park is accessible by car from Kuching, a journey of about two hours. Or take a bus from Kuching Sentral via express bus to Lundu, and then take a taxi to the park.