Of course, the idea of “walking” through the sea sounds ridiculous and hilarious, and yet, this was what I experienced recently. This pristine, wild coastal area in the south, untouched by humans, where I could actually stand with my feet in the water. It was truly a paradise for an introvert like me.

Called the “Hạ Long Bay” of the south, Ba Lụa Archipelago is located in the Kien Luong commune, of the Kien Giang province.

Ba Lua Archipelago consists of over 40 islands, only 10 of which are inhabited by humans. All the islands are named after their shapes such as Hon De, Hon Heo and Hon Ngang, among others. The most beautiful ones are the three islands which form a Hon Dam triangle. These are Hon Dam Duoc, Hon Dam Duong, and Hon Dam Gieng. Behind the history of these three islands are many interesting tales.

We were told that during the French colonial period, a high-ranking French officer usually took his wife (often addressed by the locals as Ba Dam) and children to the islands by helicopter to enjoy the peaceful scenery there. Another explanation is that these three islands form a triangle, which resembles a dress (Dam in Vietnamese), so the locals add the word “dam” to the names of the islands.

One of the most exciting experiences throughout the whole trip was our walk through the water from Hon Dam Duoc to Hon Dam Duong. The water level here was not above one’s back, even lower when the tide receded.

It was early afternoon when my group started its walk. The 300-metre distance with the crystal blue water surface gave rise to a little fear, yet lots of excitement and curiosity because I had never experienced anything such as this before. Noticing the fear and hesitation of inexperienced tourists such as me, Pham Van Muc, and Hon Dam Duoc, the owner, advised me, “Step on the whitish spots. That is the sea floor with the sand layer and the little pebbles.”

Although Muc led the group and kept a close eye on us, it was not easy to get rid of the fear because we had to get through the mass of sea kelp. Treading through the water, our feet played with the floating sea kelp in excitement and in the fear of slipping.

“Oh, goodness, it is over. I am lucky not to be bitten by any creature,” my friend Nguyen Quang Minh said with joy as soon he took the first step on Hon Dam Duong.

Unlike Hon Dam Duoc which has a shoreline full of pebbles, Hon Dam Duong possesses a flat, fine sandy beach that is taken care of. Since 2006, Hon Dam Duong also has a helipad on it. After the walk under the sun, we could not help dipping our body in the cool crystal clear water to release all the heat.

“Walking through the water and going for a swim at this clean pristine beach? What a fun trip!” Tran Ha Trang, my company for the trip shared with a giggle.

As it was dusk and the sky changed into a majestic pink hue, we continued the walk through the water to visit Hon Dam Gieng. We observed with our eyes hundreds of fishing vessels being moored to the wharfs around the island. Some were still out, floating amid the vast water body. Everything became so lively through our own eyes.

“I have never stood in front of the sea and seen such a peaceful scenery,” Trang exclaimed.

Hon Dam Gieng welcomed us with its wonderful seafood dishes. We were ravenous after this long walk through the water to get to this island around dinner time. The seafood was fresh, tasty, finely seasoned and well cooked. The most delicious dish was the shallot-oil grilled sea urchin and lemonfish hotpot.

Sea urchins here were grilled minimally with the shallot oil, topped with mustard and pepper sprinkled on top, so that its sweetness, succulence and buttery texture were preserved. The lemonfish hotpot is the delicacy of Ba Lua Archipelago, famous for its natural sweetness, straw mushroom, tomato, onion and taro. Fresh rice noodles and raw herbs made up the final touches to the perfect dish.

“So delicious! The fish is white, sweet, still firm but not chewy, and comes with the thick fatty skin yet not fishy,” my companion Minh, a long-time foodie, said sharing his thoughts.

Satiating our appetite, we all took time to relish the delicious food we had and enjoyed the trip to the fullest.

So, if you have time on your hands, don’t hesitate to spend your two-day weekend here. I can guarantee you that Ba Lua Archipelago is one of the best travelling experiences that Kien Giang Province can offer.

Speaking at a media briefing during the World Travel and Tourism Council summit last week, Japan Airlines chairman Masaru Onishi revealed that LGBT families were now included in the airline’s family mileage pooling programme. The Japan Times reported last month that the national tourism agency had asked hot spring operators to allow tattoo-sporting guests into their facilities in a bid to draw in more overseas tourists. Tattoos are fairly controversial in the Japanese society due to its association with triad yakuza members; many spa operators do not admit people with tattoos due to the stigma attached.

All of the efforts combined with a range of factors including visa relaxation policy and the devaluation of yen last year showed results on the tourist arrival numbers. For the first time in 45 years, inbound tourists to Japan in 2015 surpassed the number of outbound Japanese travellers. Tourist arrivals in Japan reached an all time high of 19.74 million visitors last year, almost doubling the number of inbound visitors in 2013.

In its most ambitious plan yet, the Japanese government recently announced a target to double the inbound tourism numbers to 40 million by 2020 and 60 million by 2030. During the same event held at the WTTC summit, Japan National Tourism Organisation president Ryoichi Matsuyama said a special panel was set up by the Abe administration in November last year to achieve the targets. “Our goals may be ambitious and challenging but we believe that we can achieve these goals by working with the private sector,” said Matsuyama.

As part of the plan to boost tourism, Matsuyama said the government decided to open up access to the country’s national parks. The Environment Ministry announced last month that five national parks were earmarked for tourism promotion programme this summer. The decision to liberalise access to the national parks came about to address criticism levelled at the government’s failure to tap into Japan’s natural treasures for tourism. The rustic beauty of the natural parks could be the backdrop for outdoor events like cycling and music festivals. According to a report from Nikkei Asian Review, the number of foreign visitors to 32 national parks in Japan totalled 4.3 million last year. The government aims to increase the number to 10 million by 2020.

More hotelsAlthough the steady rise in tourist numbers since the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake augurs well for the sector, the dramatic increase in tourist arrivals—an increase of 47.1 per cent last year—presented a problem of hotel shortage in Japan.

“Hotels in big cities like Tokyo and Osaka have an occupancy rate of more than 90 per cent, we would like to invite the big chains to invest in new hotels in Japan,” said Matsuyama. On the other hand, Matsuyama said it was time to overhaul regulations for hotels that were set over 60 years ago. The hospitality industry in Japan is governed under the provisions of hotel business law which set conditions for the number of rooms, floor area to the establishment of a front desk. “We have to review the system and remove barriers to increase productivity of the hotels,” he said.

Chinese tourist bonanzaAsia accounted for 82.9 per cent of tourist arrivals with China, South Korea, Taiwan and Hong Kong among the top four countries. Despite the tiff between the two countries, Chinese tourists are flocking to Japan with a quarter of the arrivals posted from the mainland last year. “The majority of Chinese tourists travel in tour groups but we are seeing more individual tourists, an encouraging trend that hopefully will continue to grow,” said Matsuyama.

With more than 30,000 duty-free stores, Japan, perhaps advertently, caters to the shopping spree habits of Chinese tourists who buy everything from rice cookers to toilet seats. Tourist spending increased by 71.5 per cent last year to US$30 billion; the government had set a target of US$72 billion by 2020.

“Besides the arrival numbers, we are focused on increasing tourist spending and the number of repeat visitors as well as broadening the tourist routes,” said Matsuyama. The government hopes to diversify destinations beyond the Tokyo-Hakone-Kyoto golden route, including Tohoku prefecture which was devastated by the 2011 earthquake. “There are many hidden attractions in Tohoku yet to be uncovered by tourists such as powder snow for skiing and snowboarding activities,” said Matsuyama. He assured tourists that radiation level was normal in the region apart from areas that are within 10-km radius from the Fukushima nuclear power plant.

Key eventsAs part of its preparation plan for Tokyo 2020 Olympics, Japan had signed an MoU with Britain to learn from the latter about strategies to attract visitors when London hosted the games in 2012. Japan will be hosting three major events back-to-back, starting with Rugby World Cup in 2019, the Tokyo 2020 Olympics and Kansai World Masters Games the following year. “The focus now is on preparation for the Olympics Games as it is the most urgent,” said Matsumaya.

If you want to get away from it all, there’s perhaps no more iconic destination than your own desert island! With over 20,000 islands in the South-East Asia region, there’s certainly a wealth of destinations to choose from. The trick is to find that slice of paradise that few others have discovered before you.

Myanmar’s Macleod Island, located in the beautiful Mergui Archipelago, is a great place to start. This private island retreat offers a single resort destination, one of only two in a stretch of 800 nearby islands, and a great base for some world class snorkelling. The serene slice of tropical heaven not only delivers solitude away from prying eyes, but just enough luxury to make the journey worthwhile. The private speedboat leaves from the city of Kawthaung, southern Myanmar, and delivers you to the island refreshed by the crisp ocean air an hour-and-a-half later. That’s off-the-beaten track, indeed.

If something a little closer to nature is what you’re after, Cambodia’s own Crusoe Island might be the tranquillity you’re looking for. With a selection of camping grounds and bungalows, this tropical retreat tends to cater for a younger, more energetic desire to get to a secluded locale. Crusoe Island is found on Koh Ta Kiev, with ferries from Otres Beach, itself a fairly tranquil little escape in the Sihanoukville area on the southwest tip of Cambodia.

Of course, if you want to go true Crusoe, this kind of pampered camping adventure is far too mainstream! Go the extra mile, or perhaps league, to get away from it all, with your own abandoned desert island adventure. There are companies which offer the real Crusoe experience, carting you to deserted islands throughout Indonesia and the Philippines. Relax on the uninhabited paradise that can become your home for weeks, and enjoy a true exclusive experience. Various locations are available, depending on season, with everything from relaxing bungalows to the sweet call of the abandoned wild.

Naturally, escaping the bustle of tourist traps doesn’t just mean taking to the high seas and setting sail for your own sandy paradise. Malaysia has its own opportunities for beauty away from the masses. Sarawak’s Bario Highlands provides a distant treasure that’s still on our own doorstep. The wonderful, peaceful home of the Kelabit people, resting in the northern part of the province, against the borders of Kalimantan, Indonesia, offers something truly unique.

The Bario Highlands consists of a vast highland plateau over 1,000m above sea level, and is home to 10 villages and a great wealth of nature to explore. It’s most easily accessible by plane, the 45-min flight a more sensible option it seems than the 10 to 14-hour drive from Miri, depending on the road condition and weather, making it truly one of the most beautifully-rural locations in all of Malaysia. Flights leave from Miri, Lawas and Marudi, but can be subject to weather disruption.

The Highlands offer a stunning base to enjoy the natural world, with treks through the nearby jungle or kayak trips possible upon arrangement. If you’re lucky enough to visit between July 28 and 30, you’ll also have the pleasure of experiencing the Bario Food Festival, also known as Pesta Nukenen Bario, a riot of food and festival atmosphere that’s a delight for the senses.

Accommodation in the Bario Highlands comes in the form of a traditional longhouse stay, allowing guests to best enjoy the warmth and hospitality offered by the local people. This wonderful accommodation also allows guests to benefit from the local knowledge of friendly guides who will ensure you get the best out of this truly unique experience.

If enjoying nature’s wonder is a goal, then our last destination of Umphang, Thailand, will be met with a roar of approval. This beautiful region lies in west Thailand, nestled against the border of Myanmar. The village itself can be found five hours south of Mae Sot, reached by 165km of breath-taking, winding mountain roads.

Umphang is a small village, resting at the end of the journey. Yet, it is the springboard for one of Thailand’s greatest natural wonders, Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary, and the mighty Thi Lo Su Waterfall. Despite its size, the village has several types of accommodation, yet, retaining the natural charm of a rural destination.

Thi Lo Su Waterfall is best accessed through an organised trek, which can be booked in the village. Depending on how long you want to get away from it all, you can experience everything from a direct trip to the stunning waterfall, or a longer adventure through the natural beauty of the nearby jungle in Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary. Enjoy the beauty of this jungle paradise, surrounded by the echo of local wildlife and the roar of the mighty Thi Lo Su.

It’s time to book your next adventure!

Note: This article is courtesy of GOASEAN, the first multi-platform channel on all things Asean. For more information, go to http://www.goasean.com, Astro channel 737 and TheStarTV.com.

For those looking to add more gorgeous photos to their social media, we have curated these Instagrammable hotels in Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta and Bali that are just too good not to share.

Summerbird Bed and Brasserie

Only a 10-minute drive to Bandung’s popular shopping mall Paris van Java, this BnB quickly became the subject of talk among young people for to its cute, thematic rooms. Room prices are pocket-friendly for youngsters too as they start from Rp 439,000 (US $33) per night, including breakfast for two.

Mix up the room pictures with the well-lit dining area that offers the perfect spot to take #ootd or #foodgram photos.

Location: Jl. Ksatriaan No. 11 Bandung

Oliver’s Hostelry

Situated in the northern part of Bandung overlooking the city lights, this inn looks like a lodge usually found in the US. Up to 18 rooms are available for reservation; each is uniquely designed and named after a popular song like “Holocene”, “Wonderwall” and “What a Wonderful World.”

The place also has an outdoor coffee corner, which means ample sunlight, so there is no need to edit the brightness of photos.

Location: Jl. Panumbang Jaya No. 5 Ciumbuleuit, Bandung

Artotel Thamrin

In addition to its strategic location in the city center, Artotel is also a favourite among editorial magazines and TV shows to hold a shoot. The hotel features original artwork by local artists; in fact, all three Artotels are customized and designed individually based on their location — currently available in Jakarta, Surabaya and Bali — and the locals’ lifestyle.

Those checking in at its Jakarta location, take an elevator up to its rooftop bar, which offers a view of the capital city’s picturesque skyscrapers.

Location: Jl. Sunda No. 3 Menteng, Central Jakarta

Brown Feather

When a hotel’s backdrop is Bali’s signature lush paddies, the first thing any good netizen would do is take out their smartphones and snap a photo of the view. This two-story boutique hotel, which exudes vintage vibes with its white-painted walls, rustic and vintage furniture using local materials and recycled wood, offers just that.

Despite its very au naturel location, it is only five-10 minutes away from Seminyak’s shopping and dining district.

Location: Jl. Batu Belig No. 100 Kerobokan, Bali

Tijili Hotel Seminyak

Stepping inside this spacious boutique hotel is like entering an eclectic-style painting as it is dominated by bright colors and pattern-clashing interiors. The balconies are also colorful, making them noticeable even from a distance.

The lobby alone is worthy of an Instagram post with its dry-stone walls and splashes of color. The natural light that shines through the windows also makes for a pretty image without an added filter.

Location: Jl. Drupadi 9 Seminyak, Bali

Lokal Hotel

Deliberately not built into a high-rise building, this hotel only has 12 rooms and an 80-seat restaurant. Its one-story and mezzanine rooms have a strong homey vibe.

As the name suggests, it only uses locally made products, including the shredded kawung artworks found on the hotel’s walls and floors, and attractively features a mix of minimalistic and traditional design.

Location: Jl. Jembatan Merah No. 104C, Yogyakarta

That pretty much summed up the Tourism Malaysia Shopping Hunt 2016. Participants – comprising shopping outlet executives as well as local and international media and travel agencies from 12 countries – found themselves hurled into the middle of bustling Kuala Lumpur on a hot and humid weekday.

The objective? Decipher cryptic clues and take “wefies” at designated locations within various popular shopping malls and districts in the city. Being a self-professed shopaholic, the idea of an Amazing Race-like treasure hunt – with a retail twist – was a dream come true.

What I wasn’t prepared for, was the exhaustion that came with exploring a plethora of malls. Malaysians are a lucky lot – our shopping complexes come in a variety of shapes and sizes!

That observation is shared by fellow participant Mohanad Ibrahim Ahmed Abuzaid. “It’s difficult to visit everything in one day!” the travel agent from Sudan exclaimed as we roamed around Starhill Gallery.

Indeed, the event – held in conjunction with the grand launch of the country’s nationwide sales campaigns – was a good avenue to showcase KL’s many shopping centres.

The hunt was certainly an effective method to promote the 1Malaysia Super Sale (March 1 to 31), 1Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival (June 15 to Aug 31) and 1Malaysia Year-End Sale (Nov 1 to Dec 31) – notwithstanding the physical exhaustion at the end of the race, that is.

This year, the three sales adopted the tagline “Super Bargains, Fantastic Experiences”. And an incredible adventure was just what participants of the race had.

Here are some things picked up from the shopping hunt around KL:

1. Take a walk – from one mall to another

Did you know that Suria KLCC, Avenue K, Pavillion, Starhill Gallery, Lot 10, Fahrenheit 88, Sungei Wang Plaza and Berjaya Times Square are all just walking distance from one another? Sure, Malaysia’s scorching hot weather might have you thinking twice (at least Suria and Pavilion are connected by an air-conditioned walkway). But on cloudier days, travelling on foot around Bukit Bintang will unveil a cornucopia of sights and sounds – as well as burn some calories. Now who say shopping isn’t a form of exercise?

2. …or just hop on a train!

Most malls within the city are just a stone’s throw away from a monorail or LRT station. Granted, peak hours will have commuters huddled together like sardines within the coaches. But the flip side is you can avoid paying a ridiculous sum for parking. Save that money for a cup of overpriced coffee instead.

3. Find all of KL’s hawker food under one roof

Never in a million years would I expect to find a marketplace-like atmosphere in the heart of Bukit Bintang. But that’s what Lot 10’s basement food court feels like. Whiffs of delectable street cuisines evoked pangs of hunger as I entered. From springy wantan mee to crunchy popiah, it can be overwhelming at first to take in the array of stalls. But if you’re famished after that retail therapy and looking for some local flavours, this place is a convenient stop.

4. Look out for the unexpected

Some malls have some interesting surprises. For instance, it’s easy for the indoor theme park at Berjaya Times Square to overshadow everything else within the complex. But did you know that it’s also home to a one-of-its-kind-in-Malaysia musical staircase? Lit in vibrant dancing LED lights, the staircase is designed to resemble a classical piano keyboard. Take a walk and create some sweet melodies!

5. When in doubt – ask!

Okay, this might seem like a relative no-brainer. But when in doubt, a trip to a mall’s information counter might just reveal more than the shopping centre’s directory. A few friendly exchanges with the staff might even unravel some best kept secrets such as a sky alfresco dining area and a tiny Taipei gate for that photo op. So flash that smile, keep calm and shop away!

After we touched down at Juanda Airport, Surabaya, we were greeted by our trekking guide Agus, who is named after the month of August. He made our five day, four night expedition an unforgettable experience.

Our expedition began with an almost 10 hour, 300km drive in a minivan to Sempol Blawan village. After dinner and a trek briefing at our Catimor Homestay, we repacked the stuff needed for hiking and then hit our beds.

At 2am, we began our trek up. Once we reached the Ijen plateau, we stood and looked down at the dazzling, electric-blue fire. This came from the burning of sulphuric gas, which was emerging from cracks of the Ijen volcano.

As the sun slowly rose, the site looked even more surreal, as the turquoise blue lake there unfolded.

The lake is the site of a labour-intensive mining operation, in which baskets laden with blocks of sulphur are manually carried up from the floor of the volcanic crater. The lake is recognised as the largest acidic crater lake in the world.

A two-hour hike is required to reach the rim of the crater, followed by a 45 minute hike down a narrow stairway. Despite its dramatic setting, the Mount Ijen trek is a relatively moderate one, suitable for any first timers. However, a mask is a must to avoid getting choked by the thick and pungent sulphuric gas.

Magical lakes

Magical Lakes

After tackling Ijen, our next target was to hike Mount Semeru, which is the highest volcanic peak of Java. After a tiring eight-hour drive to Lumajang town, Agus brought us to the local hospital to check on our blood pressure and body oxygen levels – our health certificates were required to get the trekking permits.

The next morning, we got all our luggage thrown into a 4WD jeep that took us to Ranu Pane village, where the trek was to start. The jeep ride was a lovely experience, as we passed villages and vegetable farms. The landscape was simply beautiful.

At Ranu Pane, we left behind the extra luggage that was not required for the trek. We also met our porters cum cooks who would carry two days worth of food supplies, water, cooking utensils and tents – plus our bags. Hiking with porters definitely made the experience more bearable!

Agus registered our group at the ranger’s office. The start point was at 2,100m above sea level. The stratovolcano Semeru (also known as Mahameru) is very steep, rising abruptly to 3,676m from the coastal plains of eastern Java.

The Ranu Pane – Semeru route would go through a lot of beautiful scenery at Waturenjeng, Oro-Oro Ombo, Cemoro Kadang, Banjangan and Kalimati, where we would camp overnight before ascending Semeru the next morning.

Here is where I would like to wax lyrical on the wonders of Ranu Kumbolo Lake at 2,390m, midway to the Kalimati camp. We had been trekking through pine forests and when we suddenly stepped out, it seemed that we had stumbled on an undiscovered world.

The lake took our breath away. No man on earth could have carved such a landscape. Only Mother Nature herself was capable of such a masterpiece. It made me recall a quote: “Climb the mountain so you can see the world, not so the world can see you” (David McCullough Jr).

The lake was surrounded with hills filled with green pines, and white clouds were reflected in the lake. A cool breeze removed the fatigue we felt from the hours of trekking. It was a perfect getaway spot to recharge mind, body and soul.

The porters prepared hot meals for us and Agus pointed to a hillside.

“You see the heart-shaped terrain?” he said. “It is known as Love Valley. As you climb up the valley and leave the lake, think of the person whom you love, make a wish and climb straight up. Don’t look back at the lake. Your wishes may come true”.

From the lake, it was a four-hour trek to Kalimati base camp (2,700m) crossing the Oro-Oro Ombo and Cemoro Kandang points. Kalimati, which translates to “Dead River” in Javanese, had a savannah bush type of landscape with plenty of small mountain flowers.

Tents were pitched. I put on my thermal wear and tucked into my sleeping bag to keep warm in the 10°C cold. Armed with only headlamps and flashlights under the starry night, we tucked ourselves in early that silent night.

Night trek

At 1.30am, we had to wake up to fill our stomachs with some food and warm coffee. We wanted to get to the peak to witness the sunrise. The trek from Kalimati would take about four hours.

We soon got to Arcopodo, the last check point before the ascent to Semeru. The trek became abruptly steep and our feet sank into the loose sand, making the climb even harder.

This was the hardest part of the trek. Trekking in the dark, we relied on light from our own headlamps, and also from those ahead of us. We had to ascend the 45 to 60 degree gradient slope and the sand, loose stones and gravel made the climb three times harder – with every step forward, we were liable to slip back down two steps.

There were no plants or trees to hold on to, and there was no proper trail. The climb drained our stamina. To make matters worse, the air had less oxygen at this high altitude.

But it was glorious when we finally got to the peak. The slow sunrise provided a panoramic view at 3,676m above sea level. The splendid landscape unfolded as we rejoiced reaching the top of Semeru. The cold, the altitude, the steep climb were all worth the pain once we set our foot on the highest point of Java.

Having enjoyed the scenic views, getting down was fun – what took three hours to climb just took less than an hour to slide down along the sandy slopes.

We packed all our stuff from the Kalimati camp and trekked down. On our way back, our thoughts were on crossing the magical Ranu Kumbolo lake again. When we got there, we enacted a Bollywood moment, our own version of Kuch Kuch Hota Hai.

At Ranu Pane village, we collected the stuff which we had left behind, hopped onto the 4WD jeep, and headed straight to the homestay at Cemara Lawang for our last destination, Mount Bromo. The jeep passed through picturesque savannah-like fields and plains filled with fine volcanic sand.

On our last day in Java, we drove up in the jeep to Mount Panajakan, the most popular viewpoint to see the sunrise at the entire Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park.

Mount Bromo (2,329m) is an active volcano and its name is derived from the Javanese pronunciation of Brahma, the Hindu creator god. It sits in the middle of a vast plain called the “Sea of Sand”.

The Hindu temple here is a place of worship for the Tengger tribe of the mountains of East Java. (They are a remnant from the days when the main religion of Java was Hinduism.)

At Panajakan, the sky started to change colour as the sun crawled up slowly, revealing the elegant Mount Batok in the middle of the Tengger Caldera while Mount Bromo sat humbly behind it.

From afar, the majestic Mount Semeru overlooked the vast caldera of the other two mounts.

We then went through a vast plain and reached the foothills of Mount Bromo. From there, it was an hour walk over 245 steps to reach the top of the Bromo crater. That was the finale of our hike.

It had been a memorable trekking trip and I had made 10 new friends. What a great adventure holiday!

To him, the cyclo is a novelty on the scale of a carnival ride. My husband and I saw it as a tourist gimmick, but one with one major difference – the journey provides a constant near-death experience.

On a cyclo, you, the passenger, sit up front in the bucket seat with nothing coming between you and the madness that is Hanoi’s traffic. Meanwhile, the cyclo driver is sitting snugly behind you, secure in the knowledge that he has you acting as an airbag should anything happen.

Things get especially hairy when the cyclo driver rides headlong into a throng of motorcycles, some of which are not travelling in your direction.

BBC? He was thrilled. His first words after we alighted, my husband and I dazed and dusty, yet blazing with gratitude for the gift of life, was: “Can we ride again?”

The Old Quarter is Hanoi’s heart of commerce dating back to the 13th century, its streets named after the trades that set up shop there. Hang Bac, which means Silver Street, for example, was and still is a street lined with silversmiths. Other streets, however, now feature trades other than what they were named for.

So in the tree-lined, motorcycle- clogged lanes, you can find streets selling musical instruments, festive decorations, or even gravestones. Other sights include street hawkers cooking on tiny stoves and women selling pyramids of oranges, strawberries and fresh flowers from baskets or the back of bicycles.

In our cyclo, we glided past tourists sitting on little stools at corner coffee shops and overtook women selling gigantic bunches of Minion and Hello Kitty helium balloons. (Which BBC clamoured to buy, but by the time he made his plea, we had already left the balloon sellers behind. Tough.)

To get a closer, less death-defying look at the Old Quarter, the three of us took a walking tour of the area with Hidden Hanoi (www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn), whose guide gave us a primer on the history and architectural style of the Old Quarter. The area is filled with old buildings nicknamed tube houses because their profiles are long and narrow, up to 70m long but only 2m wide. Some tube houses have been converted into shops, but others remain for residential use. The guide took us to a very old and gloomy tube house, into which eight families were crammed, each occupying a room smaller than a bedroom in an HDB flat. All the families shared a tiny common kitchen and an even tinier bathroom and wash area.

It was getting a little grim, so the guide added, perhaps from personal experience: “You get used to living with so many people. Everyone knows everyone’s business. And when you move out, you actually miss your neighbours.”

And then, just as my group was filing out of the house through its narrow corridor, a motorcycle inexplicably appeared and cut through the house to get to the other side, forcing us to scramble onto tiny ledges on the walls to avoid getting our toes run over.

After leaving the house, we went to a street-side market, where something caught my son’s eye. He squatted by a styrofoam box on a kerb containing squirming worms in shades of beige and pink, each as thick as a finger. Thinking that maybe the Vietnamese were really big on fish pets and bought these worms as fish food, I asked the guide about them.

“For eating,” said the guide. “Stir-fried with egg.”

Also worth checking out in the Old Quarter is the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org), which puts on water puppet shows several times a day. The Vietnamese artform, which features colourful wooden puppets manipulated by performers standing waist-deep in a pool of water and hidden behind a screen, dates back to the 11th century when villagers staged performances in flooded padi fields to celebrate the harvest.

If you are taking small children to the theatre, try to get seats in the first row for an unblocked view but do buy your tickets early because seats fill up quickly.

The 45-minute production we watched was a rowdy and fun-filled affair featuring flame-snorting dragons, wooden boys spinning in basket boats and funny skits starring leaping fishes and wily foxes.

BBC could barely contain his questions: How is it possible for the dragon to surface from underwater while simultaneously breathing out flames and sparks? How did the fox leap from the water up onto the tree? Where are the puppeteers hiding? And, what is it like to be in a job that involves being wet all the time?

Meanwhile, a toddler on my right was furiously punching and kicking the air during the climactic parts. On my left, BBC was squealing and clapping. I wanted to stand on my seat and shout: “Bravo! Encore!”

About 10 minutes’ walk from the theatre is Luong Van Can Street, more commonly known as Toy Street as it is populated with all manner of toy shops. It is as interesting for kids and for grown- ups: Trust me, we visited this road five times during our trip.

On our first visit, my husband and son went from shop to shop comparing boxes of plastic construction bricks and studying the pictures on the boxes like they were university prospectuses. There were endless deliberations. Should they get a crime-fighting vehicle set that fired missiles, or one that builds a ninja city and comes with flying discs with serrated edges?

With the patience of a saint, I waited for the boys to make up their minds. And waited.

By the fifth visit, I had lost it. Why were we spending the entire holiday lurking at toy shops? I snapped.

As with all arguments, there were two sides to the story. My stand was that I must have spent hours at the toy shops. My husband insists it took no more than an hour in total.

The winner here was, of course, BBC, who walked away with an armful of toys that we would never have bought in Singapore.

All I can say is, if you have kids with you, you, too, can make them very happy at Toy Street. Just make sure you set a time limit for all the kids (the big ones too, such as spouses).

If the exhaust fumes and non- stop honking from motorcycles overwhelm you or your child, one place to retreat to is Hoan Kiem Lake, the focal point of Hanoi and a short walk from the Old Quarter.

Despite being in the centre of the action, the lake is an oasis of calm, where trees with overhanging branches dip into its waters.

BBC enjoyed being at the lake because there was space to run about and expend his energy. And he especially loved the doughnut hawkers – women selling basketfuls of deep-fried sugar-glazed fritters.

I managed to resist the first two times they came around pushing their basket of goodies under our noses. But when the third hawker came by with those deep-fried sugar-coated babies, I caved.

Another nice chill-out spot is Cafe Nola (www.facebook.com/Nola.cafe.inhanoi), an eatery hidden in the upper levels of a tube house in the Old Quarter. The cosy little garden on its rooftop was nice, but what really gave the place a touch of whimsy was a canopy of about a dozen open umbrellas hanging from a frame. BBC spent ages dashing in and out from under them, playing some imaginary game he devised.

Cafe Nola was also home to two cats who were not at all shy about creeping up your chair or jumping onto your table. Between the cats and the umbrella canopy, BBC was distracted long enough for my husband and I to sit back to drink coffee and enjoy the view of the surroundings from the rooftop.

So, despite the chaos and the motorcycle madness that is Hanoi’s Old Quarter, it can be a place that children, too, will dig.

Back in Singapore, besides enjoying his spoils from the toy shops, BBC still speaks fondly of the cyclos.

And yes, he still wants another ride in those vehicles of near death.

To reach Phuket, we pass Pattani, Narathiwat, Yala, Songkhla, Pattalung, Krabi, Trang and Phang Nga.

We’re rather impressed at the start of the journey by the road we’re on; though it can’t accurately be called a highway as it winds through major towns where we have to stop for traffic lights, it is well-maintained and – get this – toll free!

In this initial part of the journey organised by the Royal Thailand Consulate-General’s office in Kota Baru, we see more paddy fields than houses or villages, suggesting there isn’t much development of physical infrastructure in the provinces of Narathiwat, Pattani and Yala, where three million Muslims live.

It was this area that bore the brunt of the centuries-long civil war between the Pattani Sultanate and Siamese kings, who eventually forced the region into submission. Thousands of Pattani Malays died, from as early as the 16th century until the region was officially annexed between 1902 and 1909 under the 1909 Anglo Siamese Treaty signed between the Kingdom of Thailand and Britain.

Then, about a decade or so ago, more than 8,000 lives were lost in what was said to be insurgent attacks by armed Pattani guerillas who wanted the south to secede from Thailand.

There were bombings, deaths from IEDs (improvised explosive devices) planted everywhere and rampant shootings in Sungai Golok, Hatyai, Pattani and Yala. While it was never proven, drug cartels were said to have been behind the attacks, which took more than 50,000 troops sent from Bangkok to quell.

Today, Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat are considered the most underdeveloped provinces in Thailand.

“These provinces have had a Muslim population as long as I can remember,” says Consul Azman Taepoh, adding, “Pattani was ruled by Muslim Sultans and, naturally, the people are Muslim and live by the Islamic code today.”

The common perception nowadays is that Muslims in these districts reject development. Or that the laid-back atmosphere means that the people here are backward, says Azman, a native of Pattani. But that’s not true.

It’s just that the majority of the population does not want any “vice-related” development, they are only interested in conducting legitimate, halal, business. They prefer farming, running small businesses like grocery shops, livestock breeding and aquamarine ventures, he says.

“That is why the Thailand government is pushing for a halal hub, to get the population to participate. This has been the government’s main thrust since the violence erupted in 2002,” explains Azman over lunch after a meeting with provincial district leaders in downtown Pattani.

Azman adds that there are many natural areas that can be developed into tourist attractions but, for security reasons, the Thai government is not encouraging that right now.

Instead, Pattani’s annual revenue of 20 million Thai baht (RM2.3mil) will be boosted by developing a halal industry that could become an important hub linking Kunming in South China and Malaysia.

As we continue our journey north, Phuket’s busyness is foreshadowed by the increasing number of houses, buildings and commercial activities as we approach Hatyai.

Trang

After six hours on the road, we reach Trang province, a heaven for sun and sea worshippers. The former seaport, now a bustling town of 680,000 people, draws tourists and their money with the 44 islands that lie off its coast.

We don’t stop, though, and continue on to Pattalung in our 12th hour, with night falling.

As we approach Phuket, the night sky brightens, lit up by the city’s many nightspots. At midnight we reach our hotel, the Royal Paradise, smack in the middle of Phuket’s red light district of Patong Beach.

As we tour the area the next day, our guide and van driver Deli points out that the hotels and resorts lining Patong Beach stand in the same area that appeared in many videos – including National Geographic’s special report – showing the devastating waves that claimed more than 8,000 lives during the Asian tsunami in 2004.

Deli also claims that rooms in some of these new places erected where people had been killed are closed because … they’re haunted!

“Some of the residents and also hotel patrons claim to have seen floors covered in water and the pale, dead bodies of drowned victims lying on the floor,” says Deli, adding while we zip past an empty resort that the areas in which these haunted hotels stand have been left poorly lit because not many people go there.

Although I am sceptical about the stories, I’m game when one of our group suggests sleeping in the area to find out if the ghosts are real. But our packed itinerary puts paid to the intriguing idea, unfortunately.

Though I am an excited first-time visitor to this famous 535sq km island, there is really nothing that I can say about Phuket that has not already been written about by countless writers and travellers in magazines and on blogs. Though perhaps the number of tourists is new – they have been steadily increasing over the past few years. Slightly more than 12 million tourists visited Phuket last year, with China arrivals topping the number of visitors followed by people from Europe; Malaysians were in 10th spot. (See “Major boost to tourism” below.)

We are to cap the day off with a sunset experience at Promthep Cape, about 40km south of our hotel. Watching the sun disappearing over the horizon with the spectacular play of bright orange and red colours reflected in the sea is not an experience to be missed. In fact, the beautiful Promthep Cape is a place that’s photographed even more than the famous James Bond Island, which is 45 minutes off the coast here. The island with beautiful, sheer limestone cliffs became world-renowned after being used as a location in the 1974 Bond movie, The Man With The Golden Gun.

Phuket

Phuket at night is party central at Patong Beach, of course, especially along Bangla Road. While I never do find out why the road is named as such, I do find it a sight to behold: a 400m stretch lined with tattoo parlours, live bands, pole dancing clubs and peddlers of the so-called tiger shows, all selling their experiences into the wee hours. This is not a place for the depressed!

We leave after four days in Phuket, and while I carry away many impressions about the Land of Smiles, the strongest one is how it’s wonderful to see areas that had been so tragically affected by those waves are as vibrant as ever – and how life goes on despite tragedies, sorrow or political turmoil.

Phuket will see major changes to cope with the climbing numbers of visitors in the next three years, with the injection of one trillion Thai baht (RM117.4bil) to upgrade its infrastructure.

Arguably Thailand’s most popular area, Phuket was visited by 12.5 million tourists from 10 nations last year. In comparison, 25 million tourists visited Malaysia in the same period – which means Phuket had a concentration of visitors nearly half of the number in Malaysia within its tiny 535sqkm.

Phuket Tourism Authority of Thailand director Anom Vongyai says the allocation is needed to improve road infrastructure (including the construction of two road tunnels) and an expansion of Phuket International Airport, which needs another terminal to cope with the passenger load.

“Phuket has reached a saturation level in terms of tourist capacity, and we have to prepare proper infrastructure to cope with the influx of visitors,” says Anom.

“As it is, we expect to face a shortfall in the water supply, which comes from a dam catching water from three small waterfalls on the island.

“We need to find other water resources to meet the demand,” she tells reporters during a weekend visit to the area organised by the Royal Thailand Consulate-General office in Kota Baru, with its consul, Azman Taepoh, also on hand.

When Anom is asked whether Phuket is losing its charms to commercialisation chasing tourist dollars, she is quick to point out that Phuket – and Thailand, generally – is still known as the Land of Smiles.

“Of course, things here are getting more expensive by the year but we have not lost our identity as a people of warmth that is central to our culture.

“Change is inevitable but we have not lost our sense of hospitality, and this is proven by the increasing number of tourists,” she says.

That’s the answer from David Chang, when asked about the appeal of pre-war buildings.

Chang, 44, and his business partner Lum Heng Soon, 43, own three luxury guesthouses in Malacca. The first, called 45 Lekiu, was opened in 2010, followed by The Stable and Opposite Place.

“All our properties are beautiful pre-war buildings that – through either neglect or haphazard renovations – have lost their identity. It amazes me what you find once you start tearing down the extensions and scrape off the layers of paintwork.

“Restoring and refurbishing these wonderful buildings is a romantic love affair for me. To see them in their glorious former state and be able to share them with our guests is very gratifying,” enthuses Pahang-born Chang.

“After my tertiary education, I was managing one of Sydney’s best known boutique hotels. It was my wish then to own something similar,” says Chang, who graduated with a Bachelor of Arts (Sociology) from La Trobe University Melbourne, Australia.

“Now I am able to fulfil that dream of running boutique guesthouses where luxury and chic come hand in hand.”

When he’s not busy with the guesthouses, Chang works as a freelance fashion stylist for TV commercials.

Not surprisingly, Chang’s work in fashion has influenced his aesthetics when it comes to the properties.

“A fashion stylist creates a story through clothes, props, photography and lighting; every shoot tells a different story,” explains Chang.

“The same applies to the guesthouses, which bring you back to a bygone era of a pre-war period; albeit a more comfortable and luxurious one. We strive to recreate the glamour of the period with details like romantic louvre windows and doors, Baba and Nyonya furnishing, imposing chandeliers and charming courtyards.”

As a fashion stylist, attention to details is crucial during a shoot, according to Chang.

“I apply the same rule when managing the guesthouses – the placement of the towels, the mood of lighting in the rooms, the choice of artwork and sculptures – every minor detail needs to be in place to enhance the enjoyment of our guest.”

Chang adds: “When I am on shoots, reacting quickly to potential problems is crucial. This problem solving reflex also applies to the day-to-day running of the guesthouses.”

As his properties are relatively small, the daily operation is fairly easy. “We pride ourselves in giving guests their privacy, therefore we do not intrude on them. They are given the keys and shown around the property and after that, we leave them alone to enjoy themselves. Unless they require something, we do not intrude except for housekeeping chores. As such, we only need a small army of staff to keep the places running.”

Occupying a pre-war 1941 Art Deco building, 45 Lekiu has three levels which are meticulously restored, with two bedrooms. Guests get the full run of the property which feature a tranquil lap pool, a spacious bathroom (complete with bath tub) and an inspired mix of contemporary pieces and centuries-old furnishing (including a Chinese opium bed).

The Stable – as its moniker suggests – was previously used as a horse stable for wealthy merchants. The space is decorated with pop art posters, mid-century and Oriental furnishings. Opposite Place is situated directly opposite 45 Lekiu; it features two individually appointed rooms and a cafe on the ground floor.

“45 Lekiu and The Stable have been operating for a few years and are rather established in the market,” explains Chang.

“Opposite Place is relatively new so we are putting our efforts into promoting this property before we start thinking about expansion.”

When it comes to his working relationship with Lum, Chang says: “We have been friends for about 20 years. We got to know each other from our commercial shoots where I did the styling and he did the art direction.”

Chang manages the staff and marketing while Lum keeps an eye on the upkeep of the guesthouses.

“There is no clear definition of our roles, as our responsibilities often overlap. We also have a wonderful hotel manager to help us with the daily running,” muses Chang.

“We play our parts well, so the working relationship is a mutually beneficial one,” concurs Lum, who designs props and sets for TV productions.

Asked to name the most challenging aspect of running the guesthouses, Lum replies: “The maintenance of wooden structures is in itself a challenge. As the wood constantly deteriorates, we have to replace them; if we replace them with concrete, the charm is lost.”

Chang adds: “The main challenge is to keep guests happy so that they stay with us again the next time they are in Malacca.”

Speaking of the historial city, Chang – who is based in Kuala Lumpur – regularly travels to Malacca to check on his properties.

“A favourite place of mine in Malacca is the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum which showcases the Peranakan heritage. I also walk around the heritage area to see what treasures I can find or afford at the antique shops.”

Otherwise Chang prefers to while away the hours in one of his luxurious guesthouses. And who can blame him?