THE GLITZY Victoria’s Secret fashion show stumbled across the finish line Monday night in its first-ever China staging after a run-up marred by setbacks and reports of political interference by Beijing.

Models breezed down the catwalk sporting elaborate feathered wings and billowing trains as the US brand held the racy show in Shanghai in hopes of making a splash in the country’s growing lingerie market to offset declining American profits.

But the show, now in its 23rd year, suffered a blow when top US model Gigi Hadid announced Friday she was withdrawing.

She gave no reason for the decision but it came after Chinese internet users savaged the 22-year-old over a video clip showing her squinting her eyes in an apparently derogatory facial expression.

US media also reported that singer Katy Perry was expected to headline the musical acts but was denied a visa by China. Instead, England’s Harry Styles led the way.

The reports suggested that China was upset that Perry had previously draped herself in the flag of diplomatic rival Taiwan and performed in colours implying support for those on the island opposing closer relations with China.

Neither Perry, Victoria’s Secret, nor China’s government have confirmed the reports but the state-aligned Global Times suggested in an editorial Sunday that Hadid and Perry had “dropped a stone” on their own feet.

“Payback was unavoidable. Those who are serious about developing careers in the Chinese market can draw lessons from this case and learn to abide by the rules in China,” it said.

The stumbles continued Monday night at Shanghai’s Mercedes-Benz arena, whose exterior was bathed in garish pink.

A system breakdown slowed the entry of the thousands of invited guests, delaying the show’s start, and the Chinese crowd largely resisted entreaties to show much enthusiasm.

According to reports, as part of its China charm offensive Victoria’s Secret selected a record seven Chinese women to be among the 55 models.

But one of them, Ming Xi, tripped on her costume and went down hard on the catwalk, triggering an outpouring of sympathy on the Chinese internet.

The scene is certain to be excised when the edited production airs in more than 190 countries on Tuesday.

Earlier during make-up, China’s top model Liu Wen, a veteran of several Victoria’s Secret shows, told AFP that Monday’s version was “even more special” to her this year because it was held at home.

“We can be thankful that China is such a big market, so there could be so many Chinese faces appearing. So personally I feel proud of my own country,” Liu, 29, said.

Victoria’s Secret is hoping to win a slice of that market, opening its first two super-stores in China this year, in Shanghai and Chengdu.

The company’s US sales have sagged, with analysts blaming its slow-footed response to a trend away from constructed bras towards more comfortable intimate wear. Victoria’s Secret is banking on its name recognition and on top models like Adriana Lima and her Chinese counterparts winning over women in China who are increasingly interested in expressing their sexuality, say social and fashion analysts.

Lingerie is one of the fastest-growing segments in Chinese women’s apparel, according to market-intelligence firm Mintel.

Mintel predicts it will grow to 148 billion yuan (Bt731.4 billion) by 2020, up 32 per cent from 2015 numbers.

The show’s priciest piece of lingerie was the annual “Fantasy Bra”.

This year’s version, worn by Brazil’s Lais Ribeiro, was a $2 million (Bt68 million) creation by Swiss-based luxury-goods company Mouawad, studded with nearly 6,000 gemstones.

Matthew Crabbe, Mintel’s regional trends director, said the fashion show was “a great way to raise consumer awareness”.

But he added that Victoria’s Secret was entering “a tough retail market with many competitors”, both foreign and domestic.

US fashion media have also run unconfirmed reports that three Russian and one Ukrainian model were denied visas.

FANCY HITTING the town in the latest Dior dress with an outrageously expensive Louis Vuitton bag on your arm – but haven’t the cash to afford even the clasp?

The fantasy is no longer a pipe dream for thousands of women in Paris, the world’s fashion capital, where hiring luxury clothes and handbags is beginning to catch on.

A new service has started which allows fashionistas to rent Dior, Gucci, Saint Laurent and other luxury brand handbags for as little as 10 euros (Bt390) a day.

A 4,500-euro classic Chanel black shoulder bag can be hired for 25 euros a day, although customers have also to cough up 20 euros in insurance and pay for a courier to deliver the bag to their door.

Yann Le Floc’h, founder of the Instant Luxe website, which already sells second-hand designer clothes and bags to one million members, said the site was responding to a new “pattern of consumption” where women see no shame in renting their wardrobe.

Renting expensive Louis Vuitton and Gucci bags is catching on in Paris./AFP

In his view, many women would rather use than own a luxury bag, which is why his company has begun renting out about “20 classic handbags styles for a minimum of four nights”.

“Uber has changed transport, Airbnb accommodation, and habits are changing in the luxury goods market too,” Le Floc’h says.

“We’re changing our consumption habits from ownership to use. And people are not renting just for special occasions but to treat themselves.”

While France has long had a thriving market in second-hand designer clothes and bags, fans of luxury labels have been much more reluctant about renting until quite recently, even as “the market has exploded in the US”, he said.

Yann Le Floc’h runs InstantLuxe.com, a site specialising in second-hand luxury bags./AFP

Fashion expert Julie El Ghouzzi, who heads France’s Luxury Goods and Creation Centre, calls the new rental trend the “Cinderella syndrome”.

“There is a real change in society. We have less need to possess things and greater need for appearances. This Cinderella effect means that even if we become a pumpkin at midnight we can still be the most beautiful princess at the ball, and have all the pleasure of luxury without having to own it.”

El Ghouzzi describes this as the “quintessence of consumption – we consume the object which then disappears”.

Emmanuelle Brizay, co-founder of the Panoply City fashion rental site, says a whole new market is opening up.

“More than 90 per cent of our clients have never rented clothes before. We are in a period of education, not to say evangelisation.”

Since January, the site has rented out 4,000 items from the latest women’s collections of Marc Jacobs, Kenzo, Courreges and Sonia Rykiel.

For 60 euros a month, customers can hire a different piece every week, while a 350-euro-a-month subscription gives them access to 10 outfits.

“Renting changes the relationship with clothes,” says Brizay. “One continues to buy them, but you also can have more fun. Instead of buying an umpteenth black coat for the winter, with the same money you can change the colour every week.”

Even though the rental market for top-end luxury brands is still in its infancy, Brizay says the signs were very encouraging.

The attitude of the brands themselves has changed, she said. “At the beginning we had to convince them and now some of them are coming to us to make sure they feature in the selection.”

The big question is how long rental pieces can be hired as “new”, even high-quality ones.

“The idea is certainly not to wear them out,” Brizay says, while at Instant Luxe, used bags can be sold on the site as second-hand.

“Generation Y [people born during the 1980s and 1990s] are completely ready for the fashion rental market,” according to El Ghouzzi.

“They already have all their lives stored in clouds, so not ‘possessing’ something by having it in their hands all the time is not a problem for them.”

The inspiration comes for those moments when we find ourselves at a loss for words, even though our hearts are full of love. What else can we do but take a breath, and give expression to it – with a flower.

Issey Miyake’s imaginary flower is in fact a corsage expressed using its original material Steam Stretch, in which the creases are woven into a piece of cloth using heat reactive thread, which shrinks when steam is applied. By steam heating the square textile, it shrinks to create a three-dimensional flower.

There are four different varieties of flowers from which to choose and the story begins with a bouquet and letter. The holiday season is a time to care for your loved ones and short phrases such as “Do you remember?”, “Warmth”, and “Sunset” are imprinted on an accompanying note card. By circling words or adding your own note, you can write a unique message to your loved one. Your message will gently envelop a flower corsage.

Check them out at Siam Discovery.

CONTINUING the immense generosity of His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej towards his subjects, upmarket Thai brand Phya has launched a limited-edition bag collection to raise funds for the Chaipattana Foundation under royal patronage.

As much a piece of jewellery as a bag and combining the finest bag-making techniques with traditional nielloware, the 99 opulent Napat bags come in two versions: silver and gold. In the former, the overall structure and frame is made with genuine 93-per-cent silver while in the latter, the frame and handle are coated with 99.99 pure gold of 2-baht weight.

Jirayong Anuman-Rajadhon, the brand’s founder and creative director, says her aim in designing the bag was to support those in need through the Chaipattana Foundation.

“His Majesty the late King was my inspiration. He was the Supreme Artist and I wanted to create a special design for this charitable project. The Napat was born from my imagination and at first I wasn’t even sure that my ideas could be transformed into a physical reality. But thanks to the perseverance and cooperation from all departments, nine months later we were able to finalise the design and production process,” she says.

“When the handles are hidden inside, the bag turns into a clutch that comes with an exclusive frame design resembling the Chaipattana Low Speed Surface Aerator. The oval silhouette structure within the rectangular frame reflects both gentleness and strength inspired by the philosophical virtues taught by King Rama IX. The frame is made with genuine silver while the golden edition is coated in 99.99 gold using the ancient Nielloware technique. The insignia on the bags features the auspicious boondarik lotus blossom, the symbol of perseverance mentioned in the late Monarch’s literary work ‘Story of Mahajanaka’ and the emblem of the Chaipattana Foundation. The lotus blossom logo is quilted on with tailor-made golden metal infused thread from Germany while the hand-woven outer cover is made from carbon fibre interlaced with tin and brass threads, which give the bags their unique dazzling shine. The bag can be carried in two styles – with the handle or as a clutch,” Jirayong explains.

Nielloware master, Uthai Jeansiri, adds that the Napat not only celebrates traditional Thai craftsmanship but also showcases the art of modern design.

“Nielloware dates back to Ayutthaya period and is a speciality of my home town in Nakhon Sri Thammarat province. The handle of the Napat bag was very difficult to create, as the nielloware has such auspicious traditional motifs as the prachamyam, puttan (cotton rose flower), and kanok patterns,” he says.

The latches are crafted with each bag’s individual code running from 1 to 99.

Jarupatcha Achavasmit, the textile expert who help create the fabric, is proud of the Napat, describing it as a masterpiece that blends fundamental science and the arts.

“The material is innovative. It looks like woven fabric at first sight, but is in fact made of flexible carbon fibres with strong and lustrous tin and brass fibres woven in to ensure uniqueness and durability,” she says.

Suriyon Sriorathaikul, chief executive officer of Beauty Gems, was also involved with the creation of this special collection. “Beauty Gems accepted the offer to be part of this special project without hesitation. To me this bag is actually a big piece of jewellery. It is unique and I can’t imagine any woman who wouldn’t be proud to own one. And all of the proceeds after expenses will be donated to the Chaipattana Foundation,” he says.

– The charity Napat collection features 99 limited edition designer purses. Eighty-nine of these are in silver and cost Bt299,000 a piece. Those bearing the codes 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 22, 33, 44, 55, 66, 69, 77, 88 are more expensive of Bt309,000.

– Ten units have been produced in gold with the codes 19, 29, 39, 49, 59, 70 and 79. They’re priced at Bt409,000.

–  An exclusive silent auction will be held for the two gold Napat bags bearing the codes 89 and 99. All proceeds from the sale at auction will go direct to the Chaipattana. Bids are being accepted through December 13.

– View the collection at Phya’s store on the third floor of Gaysorn Village or call (02) 656 1365, (061) 954 2456 and |(086) 062 7367.

The face kit includes the extra-dimension skin finish of Whisper of Gilt (a pale-gold shimmer) and rose-gold-handled 140 Synthetic Full Fan Brush. The lip kit features a lipstick, gloss and Pro Longwear Pencil. The eye kit holds a snowflake-embossed Eye Shadow Duo, Technakohl Liner and In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara.

Choose the Choo’s

Jimmy Choo’s creative director Sandra Choi watched fireworks arcing across the sky and conceived the Cruise 2018 collection.The shoes have micro-crystals on the top straps and sizeable rainbow-hued jewels on the delicate heels. Radiant pearls meet leather and fun tassels and an intricate crystal on both shoes and bags. Masculine components appear on casual slippers but the crystal jewels are there too. Loafers wear plush fur and purple velvety jewels. The Lockett mini-bag is colourful and has a metal and leather chain, leopard print and jewels.

No animals were injured

Stella McCartney’s cruelty-free “amplified sneaker” looks pumped up and have cool soles mimicking the textures of rock. The upper is “alter calf” and micro-suede, the tread thermoplastic and anti-slip, the heel a mix of polymers moulded for extra softness. With a wonderful aerodynamic shape and hand-sprayed effects, you might not notice the extra four centimetres of height hidden inside the sole, which is made from renewable resources.

Teamwork in full colour

American brands Jill Stuart and Morgan Lane have teamed up on a chic and sexy collection of makeup pouches inspired by lingerie and makeup packaging featuring Morgan Lane cartoon characters. Dreamy Holiday is the theme for Pyjama Party A (tulle lingerie) and Pyjama Party B (aka Lanie’s Special). Moonlight Illuminator is a highlighter and illuminating powder in light pink, light yellow, pink, white and light blue. Dreamy Couture Eyes offer endless looks with a six-colour palette. Kittenish Look Liner renders eyes sharp and beautiful. Jelly Lip Gloss adds juiciness and a full, rich lustre in sparkling pink.

Frankincense does favours

British brand Neal’s Yard Remedies, specialising in organic skincare, is celebrating its second anniversary in Thailand with a new counter in the Emporium’s Beauty Hall. Check out the Frankincense Intense range with pure ingredients, plant-stem-cell innovation and 3-peptide complex. The concentrate nourishes the skin with a lightweight gel, reducing signs of ageing and plumping the skin. The cream tackles fine lines and wrinkles, promoting elasticity. The Eye Cream restores moisture around the eyes, reducing lines and puffiness.

Today, the jewellery firm is showcasing the bull’s eye, whose deep shades magnify the symbol of luck.

An icon of Van Cleef & Arpels, the Alhambra collection has taken on an elegant range of interpretations since 1968, lending itself to a rich variety of colours and occasions. The tradition of ushering in the holiday season began in the 2000s with a limited-edition lucky creation. Today, the bull’s eye adorns the Vintage Alhambra pendant for the first time. Considered a symbol of courage since ancient times, this hard stone stands out for the brilliance of its shimmering bands, ranging from burgundy through to warm brown.

The bull’s eye selected by Van Cleef & Arpels meets the highest standards of quality, displaying a regular and harmonious alternation of colours. The surface of the stone is meticulously polished to bring out all its tones and brilliance, before being bordered by a beaded contour of pink gold. A brilliant-cut diamond punctuates the centre of the famous Alhambra motif, illuminating the enchanting play of colours.

To heighten the exclusivity, each pendant can be personalized with an engraving on the back. The timeless Alhambra motif thus becomes the reflection of a personal story or precious moment. Inscribed with a name, date or message, it becomes unique forever.

Dubbed “Jimmy Choo I Want Choo Party”, the bash saw the launch of new collection “Cruise 2018” and was attended by d celebrity A-listers including Piyawadee Maleenont, Savitri Paribatra, Atisithand Haritya Chainuvati, Tirawan Taechaubol, Gritiya Mahadumrongkul , Orawan Ingkhasit, Palawi Bunnag, Surachanee Limatibul, Unchisa Vacharaphol, Tiporn Promphan Thawin P.Siaotong, Nishsha Boonyagorn, Juntrarath Na Wangkanai, Pum and Noinutda Asavanaruenath, Panitipad Pheeraphattanakun, Palin Nandakwang, Niti Sawangwattanapaibul, Adisai Kunjara Na Ayudhya, and Monlada Pongpanich.

In designing “Cruise 2018” for her, Jimmy Choo’s creative director, Sandra Choi was inspired by a firework arcing across the darkened sky similar to vibrant strobe lights shooting across the dance floor at night. The main material – microcrystals – features on the top straps while sizeable rainbow coloured jewels set out the delicate heels. Radiant pearls are paired with leather and fun tassels pop up on the more vibrant details as well as the intricately designed crystal brooch that sits atop the iconic shoes and bags.

Several masculine components permeate the collection, with casual style slippers donning crystal jewels. Jimmy Choo’s signature loafers are smartly decked out in plush fur accompanied by purple velvety jewels showing off the more natural masculine fashion.

Mini bag Lockett comes with more a colourful palette, a metal and leather chain and in leather with leopard print and jewels.

In “Cruise 2018” for men, Choi depicted the natural and laid-back elegance with the naturally-balanced, strong and cool yet gentle look of leopard print, denim and velvet, a combination that showcased the brand’s legendary designs for modern gentlemen.

The colour palettes include blue, grey and green with slivers of silver following the colours and contrasts of American artist Rothko.

The collection and other Jimmy Choo merchandise are on sale and its stores at EmQuartier, Siam Paragon, and Central Chidlom as well as online at http://www.JimmyChoo.com.

“I really appreciate the hard work and tolerance of the Chinese people and I’ve always loved Chinese art and culture from the past. The murals created by fine Chinese craftsmen inspired the designs of my collection for autumn-winter 2017. The designs are all beautiful and full of auspicious characters such as birds, butterflies, fighting fish and peonies, which are delicate but strong.

“My colour palette includes red, fuchsia, black, navy blue, green, white and gold and the outfits have soft lines that will please the modern woman.”

Silk and jacquard imported from Japan and China are the fabrics of choice and often decorated with French lace and embroidered beads and gems.

The ready-to-wear line is comfortable enough for daily use while retaining the classic design of the 1950s through A-line skirts and oversized trousers. Flower prints in soft pink and nude are enhanced with delicate bead embroidery.

Wee is available at Siam Paragon, the Emporium, and the EmQuartier as well as online at http://www.WeeBangkok.com. Call (02) 150 9587 or (098)254 9434 to find out more.

The cute makeup pouches inspired by lingerie and makeup packaging featuring the cartoon character from Morgan Lane are sure to wow Jill girls.

Under the concept Dreamy Holiday, Jill Stuart comes up with two limited collections –Pyjama Party A (Tulle Lingerie) and Pyjama Party B (Lanie’s Special)”. The launch event lived up to the name with a pyjama party held last week at Oriental Residences Bangkok.

The collection includes a full range of products to make girls prettier and girlier than ever. The Tulle Lingerie line comes with a polka dot makeup pouch inspired by sexy lingerie, while Lanie’s Special is paired with a makeup pouch with Lane’s signature Lanie embroidered on it.

The products in this collection include Moonlight Illuminator, a highlighter and illuminating powder that adds an instant glow to your skin with five pastel colours – light pink, light yellow, pink, white and light blue. Dreamy Couture Eyes creates endless looks with six-colour palettes Kittenish Look Liner will make your eyes as sharp and beautiful as cat eyes. This liquid eyeliner can draw even delicate flicks and last without smudging. And jelly Lip Gloss adds juiciness and a full, rich lustre to the lips in sparkling pink.

Also on sale is the Holiday Makeup and Body Collection featuring Morgan Lane’s Lanie. The products in this collection meet all beauty needs and include Dreamy Wish Eye Shadow in two colours, Crystal Lip Tint 2, a limited-edition sheer lip tint, Starry Twinkle Nails and Pure Night Vanilla Body Milk to give the skin a smooth, silky feel.

AFTER a gruelling competition, the three designers who came top in the third edition of the Department of Industrial Promotion’s Thai Touch contest headed to Japan recently to take part in the Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo.

The annual competition, which is supported by Siam Paragon, aims to elevate the Thai fashion industry and also promote the knowledge and experience of young Thai fashion designers to an international audience.

This year’s winners were Jirawat Thamrongkittikul, owner of the Jirawat brand, Titat Kuantrakul of the Titat brand and Thakorn Wannawong of the Takara Wong brand. During the four-day trip that truly broadened their horizons, each designer took part in various activities, learned the process of creating a fashion show and met with Japanese textile producers.

Jirawat, who blended cross-stitch with new materials for his Spring and Summer 2018 collection, talked about his experience on an international stage, saying: “At first, I thought it would be just a fashion show. In fact, I gained more experience than that because during the four days, I got to learn behind-the-scenes work, such as backstage management and lighting. It was a very valuable experience. The team also took us to see textile producers who are suppliers of major brands and look at their showrooms, which aren’t easily accessed by ordinary people.”

Jirawat also benefited from guidance from Vogue Italy’s senior editor, who came to see the fitting at the studio, and the interest from Japanese and international media, resulting in a bigger number of brand followers. He said he was intending to use the acquired knowledge and experience to develop the quality of his work and further grow his brand.

Titat presented his Rite collection, which highlights Thai cultural roots and mixes Thai textiles with innovative materials such as synthetic fibres, linen, paper fibres, leatherette, pigskin, sheepskin and suede.

“Having a fashion show in Tokyo allowed me to see how senior designers work and really spurred me on my journey as a fashion designer. The training was very intensive because I could observe an integrated management system, from material sourcing to working with buyers. I now understand that the buying system in Japan is different from Thailand. There, they don’t show one brand on one rack, but brands are mixed together and we see how customers mix and match our clothes,” he said.

Feedback from the media and buyers suggested that he should keep the brand character and not expect too much from the first collection as journalists and buyers need to see more collections from him. However, Titat has been approached to participate in a trade show in Japan in March next year, which he expects to lead to further progress. For the time being, he is improving the quality of his clothes and adding more designs.

Thakorn presented the Wong 2018 collection that features styling gimmicks such as clear plastic pockets and different materials including plastic, patent, PVC, nylon and cotton denim, which are mixed with cotton.

The designer said, “I’ve received pretty good feedback as my brand has an international look to it. After the show, many media outlets from several countries shared photos of my clothes and tagged my brand. So, I felt I was successful in brand recognition. What I’m now working on is how to grow my business. Japan is an interesting market for my brand, which is streetwear. But I have to work on the fabrics and quality because the fabrics I’ve used are probably too light for the Japanese market.”

Thakorn also added that by being part of this project he got to see another world and exchange ideas with several companies. For example, he visited a fabric factory and a fashion marketing company and met with buyers, which gave him insight into the Japanese market and what Japanese wear or do not wear.

The Thai Designers Development Project Season 3, or the Thai Touch Season 3, is a collaborative project with a mission is to provide 360-degree support to the Thai fashion industry and create sustainable business growth for Thai fashion both in Thailand and abroad. This year the three winners of the project got to unveil their Spring/Summer 2018 collections at the Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo at the Hikarie Hall.

Thai designers Polpat Asava-prapha, President of Bangkok Fashion Society and founder of Asava and ASV brands, Pupawit Kritpolnara, designer of Issue, and Thanawut Thanasarnvimon, designer of T & T, participated in coaching the young designers.

For more details and updates on the Thai Touch Season 3 and the works of the three winning designers, visit http://www.ThaiTouchProject.com.