FOR THE chef and diners alike, each meal beneath the waves at Europe’s first underwater restaurant is a thing of wonder.

“We have this small window next to the kitchen and every time some special kind of fish comes by, I always start thinking about how it would taste,” says chef Nicolai Ellitsgaard.

The aptly named new restaurant Under opened a few weeks ago in Lindesnes on Norway’s southern tip.

It serves up Poseidon’s delicacies in an architectural showpiece that stretches down five metres underwater, offering a unique close-up of ocean life.

An aerial view of Under, a restaurant that is semi-submerged beneath the waters of the North Sea in Lindesnes near Kristiansand, some 400 km south west of Oslo./AFP

From the outside, the giant concrete monolith juts out from the craggy shoreline, while its other end tips down into the North Sea.

Customers enter the restaurant onshore through a wood-panelled passage and descend down a long, oak staircase into a dimly lit dining room. Here, a gigantic plexiglass underwater window takes centre stage.

The 36-square-metre window – “like a sunken periscope” in the words of its designers – offers a panoramic view of the ever changing live aquatic show.

In Norwegian “‘Under’ means it’s under, like submerged, underwater, and it also means a sense of wonder,” says Stig Ubostad, who co-owns the eatery with his brother, Gaute.

“It is without doubt the largest one in the world and the only one in Europe.”

There are no clown fish or sharks, like at other underwater restaurants in more tropical locations such as the Maldives or Dubai.

Rather, it is in this simple, but no less spectacular forest of kelp that cod, pollock and wrasse swim past depending on the season, with occasional visits from their predators, seals and the large seaducks, eider.

“It’s an area on the southern tip where the brackish water from the east meets the salty water from the Atlantic, so the richness of the species is very high,” says Trond Rafoss, a marine biologist involved in the project.

Under serves up Poseiden’s delicacies with a unique view, in an architectural showpiece that stretches five meters (15 feet) underwater./AFP

In addition to its distinctive architecture and fine dining, Under wants to shine a spotlight on environmental issues.

The international waiting staff are trained to provide guests with information about the aquatic show they are watching.

“The guests are on an adventure. They are exploring the nature themselves, because this is not an aquarium.

“The fish might look at us as an aquarium because what’s happening outside here is under natural control,” Rafoss says.

“You will never be disappointed, nature is never disappointing.”

The restaurant is a 34-metre monolith designed by Norwegian firm Snohetta, known for its celebrated buildings such as the Oslo Opera and the 9/11 Memorial Pavilion in New York.

It can serve up to 40 diners during its one sitting a day, five nights a week.

In the kitchen, Danish chef Nicolai Ellitsgaard and his staff let their imaginations run wild when creating seasonal menus based primarily on what the sea has to offer, including a dessert composed of five different types of algae collected from a nearby shore.

“We try to use things that are in the area, and also use things that nobody else is really using,” Ellitsgaard says.

Kitchen workers prepare food at Under./AFP

The restaurant however is probably not for everyone’s budget.

The tasting menu, consisting of 16 to 18 dishes, costs 2,250 kroner (Bt8,100) per person – and double that when wine is included.

Under is nonetheless fully booked for the next six months.

“The wonder is when you come here from the surface and you get into this magnificent light,” says Dag Jacobsen, a 59-year-old professor, who dined there with his wife and another couple.

“You see this kind of underwater light… The greenish, bluish water and all the interior here is also quite tuned to the sea as well, so you get a feeling of just diving into the sea.”

“It is impossible to differentiate between the senses, your taste, sight, sound – everything is connected so it influences the way we experience the food,” he adds, admitting he was “a bit sceptical” at first but was ultimately sold on the concept.

For those who might worry about a catastrophe befalling the underwater structure, the owner says they can rest assured.

The 26-centimetre thick plexiglass window is designed to withstand storms, and the entire structure, with its thick concrete walls, is built to resist pressure and shocks from the rugged sea conditions.

“We’ve been through so many consultants I think it’s safer than anything else,” says Ubostad.

Containing essential oils that have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, when used in cuisine the lavender bloom imparts a delicate sweet floral flavour. Diners can indulge in sweet treats that include seasonal macarons, tannea milk chocolate bon bon, lavender and quark cheesecake, peach gateaux, lavender honey and yoghurt potted creme, chocolate and black current tart, pear and almond cake and traditional scones with clotted cream, jams and marmalade.

Freshly brewed illy coffee and premium Mariage Freres or Saro tea are the perfect companions to these sweet delights. The Lavender Afternoon Tea also includes savoury bites and sandwiches such as vegetarian pesto brioche with ikura, traditional cucumber and coronation chicken sandwiches, and artisan salmon gravlax.

The afternoon tea set is priced at Bt1,290 inclusive of illy coffee, premium Mariage Freres or Saro tea for two.

Make a reservation by calling (02) 687 9000 or email upandabove@okurabangkok.com.

PARTY LIKE the Latinos this weekend at the newly opened Flamenco Bangkok, a new party spot perched high on the ninth floor of EmQuartier.

The brainchild of The Mall Group’s top executive Supaluck Umpujh, the sky bar and lounge atop on Helix Building are filled with colour and Latin touches, reflecting the motto, “Without Passion, Life is Nothing.” Top-notch food, drinks, and hot Latin sounds takes party-goers back to an era of unbridled glamour, making Flamenco Bangkok a unique and inspired addition to Bangkok’s night scene.

The glamorous Latin ambience

Speaking to reporters at the recent grand opening, Supaluck explained that Flamenco Bangkok draws inspiration from the Spanish dance style and music genre and aims to bring the culture, music, contemporary arts and the flavours of the global Latin community to the centre of Bangkok.

The new venue is spread over 800 square metres and boasts a vast indoor area featuring a grand hall, decorated with crystal chandeliers, velvet sofas, antique furniture, and the main bar. The mezzanine lounge, meanwhile, is designed to offer VIP customers privacy and features well-known DJs and live bands paying homage to everything Latin, from Rumba to Samba. The outdoor rooftop bar area with its spectacular view invites guests to enjoy the sunset and the 180-degree view of Bangkok skyline and the cigar room adds a further touch of glamour.

Seafood Paella

Tesit Amatyakul, executive sous chef, is in charge of the Spanish and Mexican style kitchen, and serves up a diverse selection of delicious tapas including Kingfish Ceviche (Bt390) made to a tangy Peruvian recipe with Spanish onion, jalapeno peppers, finger lime and cilantro.

“Spices are the most important ingredients of any Latin dish and give it a distinctive and intensive taste. For example, our Pork Scratching (Bt150) is sprinkled with paprika, cumin, coriander root powder, garlic, chilli, and sesame. We also use different types of chilli to create the hot taste,” Tesit explains,

“Thais will love the Jalapeno Poppers (Bt290), a tapas dish featuring three of the peppers stuffed with Spanish Chorizo chilli, which is now can be grown in Thailand, cream cheese, chipotle mayo and mozzarella. They’re rolled in flour and crunchy breadcrumbs before being deep fried.”

Patatas Bravas (Bt180) is another of the chef’s recommendations. This potato confit dish is filled with a tomato-based Bravas sauce and aioli and baked for an hour. Tuna Tartare Sopes (Bt450), meanwhile, shows off its Japanese influences with the raw tuna mixed with jalapeno, avocado and sesame.

Chimichurri Beef

There are two types of soup available, served both chilled and hot: Chilled Gazpacho (Bt200) features blue crab meat, avocado, and olive oil, and Chicken Tortilla Soup (Bt250) uses black-eyed beans, harmony corn, and spring onion.

And for those wanting something more substantial that they can also share, there’s the Seafood Paella (Bt990) made with prawn, squid, mussels, Spanish sausage, and cooked with Bomba rice, saffron, paprika, and roasted capsicum, as well as Argentinean speciality Chimichurri Beef (Bt1,290) served with Manchego Mash and baby carrots.

Drinks-wise Margarita is the star. One of the best mixologists in the industry graces Flamenco Bangkok’s bar and serves up such punch-packing drinks as Margarita del Dragon and Tiki Poly Margarita with the aromatic flavour of fresh green apple, lime, and cucumber bitters along with Cuba Libra, Caipirinha, Maracuja Daiquiri and Tequila Shots. They’re priced at Bt380 a pop.

JUST SAY OLE!

>> Flamenco Bangkok in on the ninth floor of Building A, the EmQuartier.

>> It’s open every night from 6pm to 1 am.

>> Reservations are recommended. Email: Reservations@flamenco-bangkok.com or call (02) 003 6006.

Opened in 1983, this iconic Thai restaurant retains the original ambience, complete with colourful Jim Thompson fabrics, marble table tops and rich wooden furnishings that mirror the colour of a traditional spice market.

Adding a new bar concept, it serves original cocktails and Thai wines flavour-matched to each dish, alongside an extensive list of premium spirits, beers and wines from around the world.

The kitchen is in the hands of award-winning chef Warinthorn Sumrithphon and focuses on classic Thai recipes, including homemade curry pastes by renowned local food connoisseur ML Thor Kridakorn.

Using the best local produce, the menu remains faithful to the authentic flavours and evolves them with a dramatic new approach to plating. The signature selections include deep-fried roasted duck with chilli jam, crispy mackerel with simmered coconut milk and green curry with braised beef. There’re also set menus to enjoy.

Find out more at http://www.Siam-Bangkok.Anantara.com.

OPEN FOR just one year, Lhong Tou Cafe in Bangkok’s Chinatown has made a name for itself by offering a new take on such favourite Chinese snacks as shumai, wonton dumplings and buns.

Housed in an old shophouse, the cafe has only nine tables and a maximum of 30 seats. No reservations are taken and diners have to get a queue number from the machine at the front and usually have to wait a long time whether going for lunch or dinner.

Known for its doubledecker tables, popular Chinese cafe Lhong Tou spreads its wings from Chinatown to downtown Bangkok.

In response to popular demand – and complaints from customers about the long queues and no parking lot – the cafe has just opened its second branch in downtown Bangkok at the Market mall, opposite CentralWorld on Rajdamri Road. Double the size of the Chinatown shop, the downtown outlet can accommodate 60 diners excluding at the outdoor terrace that will open soon.

The interior is identical to the original store. Loyal customers can still spot the familiar street-style neon signage in red and green bearing the cafe’s name in Chinese lettering. The signature double-decker tables originally designed to cope with the small space of the first branch also make an appearance here.

“Our solution to the compact space of our first store in Yaowarat (Chinatown) was to put an upper deck above the lower seats. The structure is made from metal pipes and wooden planks. It’s like a mezzanine floor and it can be reached by climbing a ladder. Customers love it and enjoy climbing up. Most want to sit on the upper deck,” says Wannayos Boonperm, a co-owner in charge of design concept.

Wannayos has teamed up with the Voranate brothers, Nithi and Itthi – the guys behind the steakhouse Meat Bar 31 on Soi Sukhumvit 31. The siblings also serve as consultants to a number of restaurants and advise on interior design and the food concept.

Wonton soup and steamed shumai dumplings

“Lhong Tou means the head of the dragon and we adopted it because our first shop is located next to the Odeon Circle, the gate to Bangkok’s Chinatown. Tourists come to Yaowarat to try a variety of Chinese foods so they will hop from one restaurant to another. We wanted to become a pit stop on their culinary route, so we positioned ourselves as a cafe rather than a restaurant by serving Chinese-influenced snacks instead of heavy meals,” says Nithi.

Though none of the owners have any Chinese ancestors, they offer the Chinese snacks that people living in Yaowarat normally eat but present them in a more contemporary style.

“Chinese food at Yaowarat is not like what you can find in Hong Kong. It’s a mix of Chinese and Thai. That’s pretty typical and is what makes the Chinatowns in different cities so varied. We want our place to become an everyday cafe so the prices are affordable. I can say that the customers don’t need to spend more than Bt200 per person for both food and drinks,” adds Itthi, a Cordon Bleu-trained chef.

A set of congee and side dishes

Congee with a variety of side dishes is a popular Chinese breakfast usually enjoyed with family members. Instead of featuring it as a feast, Itthi presents it in individual servings, placing a bowl of congee and a variety of eight sides – fried Chinese sausage, dried shredded pork, pickled vegetable, salted egg yolk, boiled peanuts and seasoned mushroom – in a large bamboo basket. Priced at Bt129, it’s an all-day breakfast dish that’s much in demand.

A small soup bowl with three pieces of shrimp wonton dressed with goji berry (Bt59) is as tempting as the steamed shumai dumplings with three fillings – minced shrimp, minced pork and Chinese chives (Bt69).

Durian lava bun, mini BBQ pork buns, steamed shitake bun, and fried lava bun

For fried snacks, go for minced shrimp wontons (Bt69 for five pieces), shrimp spring rolls (Bt59), or shrimp dumplings wrapped with potato threads (Bt79). The fried chicken marinated with Mala sauce from Sichuan peppercorn, chilli and various spices is also worth trying and not too much numbing and spicy. It goes for Bt79.

Other popular snacks are fried lava bun with creamy custard and salted egg yolk oozing out (Bt29), five pieces of fried mini BBQ pork buns (Bt49), and a piece of durian lava bun (Bt59). There is also a steamed shitake mushroom bun (Bt59) that comes in a mushroom shape and is stuffed with seasoned mushroom.

Hot anti-ageing tea

To complement the food, customers can order a pot of hot anti-ageing tea consisting of osmanthus and butterfly pea flowers (Bt160). For cold drinks, opt for the refreshing butterfly pea lemonade (Bt70) or butterfly pea Thai milk tea (Bt75, only available at the second branch).

Lhong Tou Cafe is a big hit among Chinese-speaking tourists who account for about 60 per cent of the customers.

Iced butterfly pea Thai milk tea

“We didn’t expect to draw a lot of Chinese-speaking tourists to try our food,” says Nithi. “In addition to the flavourful taste, customers come to get an experience for which they are happy to spend. Unlike some restaurants where customers come to try a famous and particular dish, our cafe integrates all elements.”

“Some tourists just visit Bangkok once and complain that they missed the chance to eat at our restaurant. Our answer was to move closer to them by opening the new branch in the areas popular among Chinese tourists. In addition to Chinatown, the popular tourist spots are the sacred Erawan Shrine and the Pratunam shopping area,” adds Wannayos.

Clay pot rice with crispy chilli and garlic, crispy pork belly and soy saucemarinated egg yolk

As the second branch also attracts office people, particularly during lunchtime, five clay-pot rice bowls with different toppings have been added to the menu. Ranging in price from Bt139 to Bt169 a bowl, they include clay pot rice topped with Chinese sausages and egg or with chilli, garlic and crispy pork belly.

Chinese plum bingsu

The refreshing dessert that is only available at the second branch and perfect for sharing is Chinese plum Bingsu (Bt95), which boasts Chinese plum snowflakes served with fresh lychee and peach and lychee bubbles.

THAT TASTES SO GOOD!

Lhong Tou Cafe’s second branch is on the ground floor of the Market mall, opposite CentralWorld on Rajdamri Road.

It is open daily from 10 to 10.

Call (064) 935 6588 or visit “Lhong Tou Cafe” page on Facebook.

Prepared to order, the interesting option of main dishes includes panseared foie gras on brioche and grilled Canadian lobster as well as various Thai favourites. Diners can check out exclusive Japanese creations such as fresh sashimi and sushi, takoyaki, yakitori, tuna tataki with ponzu sauce, udon soup and gyoza. All can be paired with freeflow Champagne, Prosecco, selected wines, local beers, cocktails, mocktails, and soft drinks.

The seafood-on-ice corner encompasses freshly shucked French, Australian and American oysters, premium Maine lobster, giant Alaskan king crab, seasonal mud crab, blue crab, succulent prawns, New Zealand mussels, rock lobster and plump Manila clams.

The hot seafood menu includes river prawns, tiger prawns, Japanese scallop, oysters and squid while from the pasta station comes home made vermicelli and ravioli with a choice of pesto, carbonara, Bolognese, mussel sauces and creamy mentaiko with nori sauce.

The carvery serves up succulent roasted meats, salmon gravlax with blinis and fresh cream and a delicious beef Wellington with Yorkshire pudding and a red wine sauce. All dishes are complemented by healthy salads, fresh fruits, and indulgent desserts such as freshly baked chocolate lava cake, and homemade ice cream served with waffle.

The Sunday Brunch costs Bt2,800 with freeflow mocktails and soft drinks, Bt3,500 with selected freeflow wines, Prosecco, local beers, cocktails, mocktails, and soft drinks and Bt4,100 for the full Sunday Brunch inclusive of freeflow Champagne, Prosecco, selected wines, local beers, cocktails, mocktails, and soft drinks. Kids under 12 pay 1,050 for children aged under 12.

Book your table at (02) 687 9000.

The buffet line is filled with a wide selection of fresh seafood including large tiger prawns, blue crab, slipper and river lobster and four kinds of oysters from different international waters.

A station of sushi and sashimi stands alongside an open kitchen that serves all kinds of grilled premium seafood and meat like salmon, squid and roast beef, There’re also a variety of Thai delicacies, spaghetti in several sauces, homemade ice cream, desserts and seasonal fruits. The seafood buffet is priced at Bt999 net and is available from 6pm to 10.30pm.

Book your table at (02) 431 9100, or visit http://www.Avanihotels.com/en/riversidebangkok/restaurants/skylinerestaurant.

WELL-KNOWN for its tender eight-flavoured pork belly, Palsaik Korean BBQ makes its way to Thailand with the launch of its first branch in the heart of the Bangkok that’s already luring local foodies with enticing Korean delicacies.

With three branches in Seoul and outlets in the US, Japan, Australia, China, Taiwan, Malaysia and the Philippines, it arrived here last month courtesy of new-wave enterpreneur Duangporn Rungpuvapat and her family, whose Srithai Food Service factory has been supplying sauces and ingredients to big-name fast food brands and leading restaurants for the past 38 years.

Duangporn says she got to know Palsaik – the name combines the Korean words for eight and colour – during her trips to Seoul.

“I’m crazy about K-Pop girl groups so much so that I learnt the language and have been regularly going to South Korea with my family for years. We like sampling local food and I often read restaurant reviews on social media,” says Duangporn, who is managing director of 8 Food (Thailand).

“Samgyupsal (pork belly) is one of my favourite meals but finding a restaurant that served it the way I liked it proved hard. Then five years ago, I discovered Palsaik Korean BBQ. The meat was so tender and tasty that I kept going back and decided to try and bring the brand to Thailand so others could enjoy it too.”

The restaurant on the second floor of Siam Center is modern and chic, boasting a white floor, wood panels and monochrome furniture. Copper lamps mingle with ventilation hoods on the black ceiling.

Seafood Soup

The sauces are made to Palsaik’s traditional recipes, and the burners and sloped grill pans imported from South Korea allow excess lard to run off into the waste receptacle.

Perfect for four people sharing, the popular Palsaik set (Bt1,035) consists of aromatic pork belly that is marinated for 12 to 36 hours in eight different sauces – gingseng, red wine, pine leaves, garlic, herbs, curry, miso and gochujang – to bring out the flavour and keep the meat tender and juicy.

The set is served with fresh vegetables, mushrooms, as much kimchi as you can eat and a big pot of spicy seafood soup. Additional sides of cheese stir-fried rice, raymond noodle, ham, sausage, shrimp, tofu, mozzarella cheese and Korean fish cakes can be ordered separately. Prices range from Bt40 to Bt150.

Palsaik Set

“Palsaik opened its first branch in Shinchon and it quickly became popular with locals and foreign tourists. The eight-coloured marinated pork belly tastes great even without seasoning. Staff are on hand to help you grill the meat at your table and you should start with the ginseng and end with the gochujang to enjoy the different levels of taste from light to spicy,” Duangporn says.

“Ginseng sauce makes the pork fragrant and tender while the pine leaves sauce is good for the health. These two flavours are popular with Korean customers.”

 Lava Kimchi Fried Rice

We also order a plain Premium Pork Set (Bt750) with vegetables, kimchi and clam soup and a tray of melt-in-the-mouth Ribeye A5-grade Beef (Bt800). All come with sliced garlic, spicy ssamjang and special soy-black vinegar sauce made especially for the Thai branch.

Duangporn has created a new interesting set of Cheese Volcano Steamed Egg (Bt195), mellow Lava Kimchi Fried Rice (Bt295) and Iron Plate Japanese Wagyu A5 Garlic Fried Rice (Bt395), which is ideal for a quick meal.

Other dishes include Japchae (stir-fried glass noodles with vegetables and pork for Bt210) and Stir-fried Pork Hot Pot Bibimbab (Bt265).

“Our menu is different from the branches in Seoul. We’ve created some new dishes to appeal to the Thai palate and that also cater to the Thai preference for sharing,” Duangporn says.

BARBECUED BITES

>> Palsaik Korean BBQ is on the second floor of Siam Center. It’s open daily from 10am to 10pm.

>> Find out more at http://www.Facebook.com/PalsaikThailand.

Originally from Bedford in England, Naylor trained with Albert Roux in London and Amsterdam. Under Robert Kranenborg, he headed the kitchens at Le Cirque and Vossius – each boasting one Michelin star – and La Rive, which holds two stars. For the past 10 years, Naylor has been the executive chef of Restaurant Vermeer at NH Collection Amsterdam Barbizon Palace.

He will treat Bangkok’s foodies to a five-course dinner over two nights on June 7 and 8. With a cooking style described variously as “creative”, “quirky”, “clean” and “pure”, Naylor pays great respect to seasonal produce and the land it comes from. He places the focus of his creations on the sensory experience.

“My dishes may not be picture-perfect,” he says, “but the beauty of nature resides in the flavours.”

The five-course culinary journey at Madison will feature mackerel marinated in apple and ginger with red pepper and olive bouillon, a roasted and braised veal blade with pumpkin puree and horse-radish granola, a choice of mouthwatering desserts and much more.

Dinner is priced at Bt4,000-plus (food only) and Bt5,500-plus including wine pairing.

On June 9, Sunday Brunch guests will get a chance to taste some of Naylor’s creations supported by live music and signatures from all cuisine, including luxury seafood, foie gras and a large pastry selection for Bt2,999-plus including a non-alcoholic beverages package.

For reservations, call (02) 126 8866 extension 1222 or email madison.asia@anantara.com.

The Authors’ Lounge, which has inspired great novelists for more than century, has joined up with the world’s leading perfumerie Diptyque, whose philosophy embraces the two worlds of dream and reality.

The “Eau de Menthe Afternoon Tea inspired by Diptyque” is crafted by executive Chef Dominique Bugnand, who carefully handpicks the mint leaves and has them recreated into fine delicacies, stylishly placed on a three-tiered stand. As the Tea Master intricately live-brews a unique Black & Green tea with the flavour of mint and citrus, the aromatic freshness from mint enhances the lively floral notes, and brightens the rest of your afternoon.

Order the “Eau de Menthe” Afternoon Tea inspired by Diptyque and receive a complimentary travel size of Mint perfume and a candle for just Bt2,200-plus.

Make a reservation at (02) 659 9000 extension 7390 or email mobkkrestaurants@mohg.com.