Pierre Cardin, designer who turned name into brand, dies at 98 #SootinClaimon.Com

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Pierre Cardin, designer who turned name into brand, dies at 98

FashionDec 30. 2020Pierre Cardin in his Paris office in 2016. MUST CREDIT: Bloomberg photo by Marlene AwaadPierre Cardin in his Paris office in 2016. MUST CREDIT: Bloomberg photo by Marlene Awaad

By Syndication Washington Post, Bloomberg · Laurence Arnold

Pierre Cardin, the Parisian designer who forever changed fashion when he broke with French couture houses and offered ready-to-wear clothing in department stores, ultimately transforming his name into a diversified global brand, has died. He was 98.

The Agence France-Presse reported the news, citing his family. France’s Academy of Fine Arts confirmed the news in a tweet.

He lived in Paris and acquired properties including a castle in the south of France once owned by the Marquis de Sade and the Palais Bulles, or “Bubble Palace,” his futuristic mansion in Cannes.

Cardin made his mark artistically in the 1960s as a leading designer of the “Space Age” look, with unisex clothing, bold geometric patterns and the use of vinyl and plastic.

Fashion was just the start of Cardin’s business empire. He went on to sell eyeglasses, umbrellas, perfume, luggage, linens, furniture, mattresses, skis and coffee pots.

“If someone asked me to do toilet paper, I’d do it,” Cardin told the New York Times in 2002. “Why not?”

In 1959, at the Paris department store Printemps, Cardin became the first designer to introduce a ready-to-wear — or “pret-a-porter” — women’s line for a broad audience. With that act of independence, Cardin steered himself away from the haute couture houses that dominated the Paris fashion scene.

“It was Cardin who first equated fashion design with the masses, and he made the notion of luxury for everyone into an international currency,” fashion writer Elisabeth Langle wrote in a 2005 book, “Pierre Cardin: Fifty Years of Fashion and Design.”

“They said pret-a-porter will kill your name,” Cardin said in an interview, “and it saved me.”

He was also a pioneer in men’s fashion. He opened Adam, a boutique featuring printed shirts and ties, in 1957, and three years later presented the first haute couture show for men. His high-buttoned, collarless jackets captured the fancy of four lads from Liverpool, England, and as the Beatles conquered the music world, the Cardin look soared with them.

Cardin leveraged his fame through branding, licensing and franchising. For many years, he said his trademark had 800 licenses in 140 countries. By mid-2017, the number of active Cardin licenses had dropped to about 350.

At times he was cited as an example of licensing run amok. Time magazine, in a 1975 story, called him a “shrewd fantasist who has tacked his name on to just about anything that can be nailed, glued, baked, molded, bolted, braced, bottled, opened, shut, pushed or pulled.”

In 1981 Cardin purchased the landmark restaurant Maxim’s de Paris. True to form, he globalized the Maxim’s brand by franchising branches in Brussels, Beijing, Rio de Janeiro, London and New York, opening Maxim’s hotels and launching a line of Maxim’s luxury products.

The results were mixed. The Brussels and Rio restaurants closed within a few years, and the New York restaurant shuttered in 2000.

Cardin took his clothing to every corner of the globe. He targeted the Japanese market after visiting there in 1957, signed production agreements with the Soviet Union in 1978 and, in 1979, became one of the first western companies to do business in China.

Cardin long ago announced that he intended to sell his empire, which he estimated to be worth at least 1 billion euros.

It wasn’t at all clear that anybody but Cardin could run his runaway brand. Richard Morais, in his 1988 biography “Pierre Cardin: The Man Who Became a Label,” said Cardin was better at spinning — and sometimes embellishing — his image than at running a company.

“The Cardin empire was a giant fungus with its own independent life,” Morais wrote. “Spores of independent licensees grew in the dark and crept into every corner of the earth, fertilized by a steady supply of superb public relations. Sometimes, one would have to think, the empire grew in spite of Cardin.”

Pietro-Costante Cardin, the youngest of 11 children, was born on July 2, 1922, in the Italian village of San Biagio di Callalta, near Venice. His parents were farmers and winemakers whose land and business had been ravaged by World War I. The family moved to southeastern France when Cardin was 3 years old.

In 1944, he arrived in Paris and two years later began working for designer Christian Dior, who was assembling his own fashion house.

He opened his own firm in 1949 and presented his first haute couture women’s collection four years later. He said Argentina’s first lady, Eva Peron, and American actress Rita Hayworth were among his earliest clients.

Cardin’s ballooning bubble dress brought him lasting acclaim after it was introduced in the mid-1950s. In the 1960s, he positioned himself as a futuristic designer attuned to the fantasy of the Space Age. He embellished his outfits with geometric shapes, vinyl, oversized zippers, goggles, visors, even helmets.

“The dresses I prefer are those I invent for a life that does not exist yet: the world of tomorrow,” he said.

A 1966 Time magazine article said Cardin’s clothing for men was growing by $8 million annually, five times the gross of his women’s line, and his customers included actors Gregory Peck, Yul Brynner and George Hamilton. That year Cardin opened a menswear shop in New York City at Bonwit Teller.

He made his first set of haute couture furniture, called “Utilitarian Sculptures,” in 1977.

He expanded his empire in the 1980s, opening boutiques in Paris, Budapest, Beijing and London.

UNESCO, the United Nations office that promotes education and culture, named Cardin a goodwill ambassador in 1991. He also was elected to France’s prestigious Academie des Beaux Arts.

Cardin, who once had a love affair with film star Jeanne Moreau, never married or had children. Moreau died in July 2017.

Bespoke menswear brand Etiquette opens first boutique in Bangkok #SootinClaimon.Com

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Bespoke menswear brand Etiquette opens first boutique in Bangkok (nationthailand.com)

Bespoke menswear brand Etiquette opens first boutique in Bangkok

FashionDec 21. 2020Lertsak Chitvarakorn, Founder and Designer at EtiquetteLertsak Chitvarakorn, Founder and Designer at Etiquette 

By The Nation

New bespoke menswear label Etiquette is officially debuting with a boutique on Pradipat Road this month after discreetly dressing some of Bangkok’s stylish men over several seasons.

Founded by architect Lertsak “Oak” Chitvarakorn, Etiquette aims to bridge the gap between elegant black tie and stylish workwear by focusing on classic tailoring, contemporary fabrics and a refined cut.

“The different facets of a person is what makes an individual, and I find those details inspiring. As an architect, proportion and form are fundamental, and I enjoy applying these principles to tailoring. The attention and art that comes with making a suit are quite similar to designing a space to live in – both require comfort and identity,” Lertsak said.

The boutique features an extensive collection of fabric swatches and patterns for clients to peruse. It also offers a curated selection of ready-to-wear suits.

The showroom-cum- design studio stands out with its stylish turquoise exterior, which transforms into understated elegance inside.

Rare traditional skills on display in masterpiece collection of jewellery and handicrafts #SootinClaimon.Com

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Rare traditional skills on display in masterpiece collection of jewellery and handicrafts (nationthailand.com)

Rare traditional skills on display in masterpiece collection of jewellery and handicrafts

FashionDec 19. 2020

By The Nation

Lotus Arts de Vivre, who combine a perfect mix of beautiful nature and Asian highly-skilled handicraft that has been passed on from generation to generation to create accessories, bags, and home decoration items, celebrated its 38th anniversary with a new masterpiece work from almost lost textile arts and modern twist.

Presents of Presence A Lotus Art de Vivre Masterpiece 2020 collection unveils the masterpiece jewellery collection including bracelets, rings, and earrings from rare deep-water seashells decorated with gold at high value, necklace and earring set made from crafted coconut shell decorated with gold, golden ring decorated with crafted emerald, Yok Thong fabric bag from Nakhon Si Thammarat from Noen Thammang Arts and Crafts Center as well as home decoration items such as a small wooden table, trendy designed lamp, and silver crafted wood in animal shapes, etc.

Nicki von Bueren, CEO of Lotus Arts de Vivre, stated that Lotus Arts de Vivre is an accessory and home decoration brand originated in Thailand. Even though his father, Rolf von Bueren, the founder of the brand, is German and his mother (Helen von Bueren) is half Thai-Scottish, both of them are obsessed and amazed by the beauty of Thai arts and culture. His father always says that “Thailand preserves its handicraft culture much better than most of the Asian countries through the works of arts & crafts centres up until today”.

Rolf von Bueren (left) and Nicki von Bueren (right)

Rolf von Bueren (left) and Nicki von Bueren (right)

He said his family would like to be part of inheriting this beautiful culture so we have created the masterpiece collection including Thai handbag made from 2 pieces of Yok Thong fabric from Noen Thammang Arts and Crafts Center, Nakhon Si Thammarat in blue and red to create a limited edition with 36 bags available. These 2 pieces of fabric are stunningly beautiful and very delicately made mixed with other materials to create a Thai handbag that is trendy, luxury, and matches with the modern lifestyle.

Gold Ring with Rubellite Diamond. 18K Gold Ring embellished with Rubellite, Round Rose Cut, Triangle Rose-cut and Baguette Diamonds. Baguette Diamonds 0.34 ct Triangle Rose Cut Diamond 0.25 ct Round Rose Cut Diamonds 0.02 ct Rubellite 3.31 ct

Gold Ring with Rubellite Diamond. 18K Gold Ring embellished with Rubellite, Round Rose Cut, Triangle Rose-cut and Baguette Diamonds. Baguette Diamonds 0.34 ct Triangle Rose Cut Diamond 0.25 ct Round Rose Cut Diamonds 0.02 ct Rubellite 3.31 ct

Akkharajaya Kaewaphon, Thai fabric expert with more than 10 years of experience and former storekeeper at the Fabric Museum under Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s Royal Patronage, revealed that in the year 1993, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit visited the people at Ban Noen Thammang and realize their poverty problem with their main income relying on farming. Her Majesty then presented the Arts & Craft Center at Ban Noen Thammang, Amphoe Chian Yai which nowadays is Noen Thammang Arts and Crafts Center. In the process, Her Majesty also commanded that Yok fabric production, which has been forgotten, was to be restored resulting in additional income for the people during off-farming season.

Akkharajaya Kaewaphon

Akkharajaya Kaewaphon

Yok Thong fabric from Nakhon Si Thammarat done by highly-skilled craftsmen is a cultural treasure as it is very complicated to make. Her Majesty Queen Sirikit ordered that the masters from the Arts and Craft Center studied the patterns and production technique which took them 2 years to understand before starting to revitalize it. In the ancient time, Yok Thong fabric from Nakhon Si Thammarat is regarded as top quality and beautiful. It is the fabric that kings presented to his royal families or high-class nobles. At the present, Yok Thong Silk is made for the Royal Khon Performance instead of importing from outside Thailand. It is not available for public purchase and is made from natural colour in red and blue.

Woven Jewelled Silapacheep Handbag with Carved red coral Blooming Roses. Inspired by the foundation laid by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit the Queen Mother, the Silapacheep Silk patterns were elegantly designed by Lotus Arts de Vivre to hand-make this bag. The handle of the bag has been hand carved in Black Wood and ornately decorated with Black Rhodium-plated Sterling Silver. Carefully selected Silapacheep Silk patterns were then woven and covered to form this handbag, which laid the foundation of the embellishments - intricately carved Red Stone roses were set onto the Bag decorated with Rose Cut Diamonds, Iced Diamonds and Pearls.

Woven Jewelled Silapacheep Handbag with Carved red coral Blooming Roses. Inspired by the foundation laid by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit the Queen Mother, the Silapacheep Silk patterns were elegantly designed by Lotus Arts de Vivre to hand-make this bag. The handle of the bag has been hand carved in Black Wood and ornately decorated with Black Rhodium-plated Sterling Silver. Carefully selected Silapacheep Silk patterns were then woven and covered to form this handbag, which laid the foundation of the embellishments – intricately carved Red Stone roses were set onto the Bag decorated with Rose Cut Diamonds, Iced Diamonds and Pearls.

Those who are interested can visit and own the items from December 18 at Lotus Arts de Vivre Boutique, Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel.

Woven Jewelled Silapacheep Hand bag with Lacquer rooster brooch. A black Thai silk handle in the clutches of Silver Talons and Gold inlay Black Wood beads holds the beautiful Handbag made with Silapacheep Silk from Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s Silapacheep Arts and Handicrafts Center. Decorated on the side is a Japanese Lacquer Rooster. The frame of the handbag is done in skillful damascene work, hand-designed by master craftsman Ajarn Uthai and fastened with a rich Amethyst and Pink Tourmaline clasp into the bag

Woven Jewelled Silapacheep Hand bag with Lacquer rooster brooch. A black Thai silk handle in the clutches of Silver Talons and Gold inlay Black Wood beads holds the beautiful Handbag made with Silapacheep Silk from Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s Silapacheep Arts and Handicrafts Center. Decorated on the side is a Japanese Lacquer Rooster. The frame of the handbag is done in skillful damascene work, hand-designed by master craftsman Ajarn Uthai and fastened with a rich Amethyst and Pink Tourmaline clasp into the bag

Jimmy Choo opens 3rd store in Thailand at Central Embassy Mall, Bangkok #SootinClaimon.Com

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Jimmy Choo opens 3rd store in Thailand at Central Embassy Mall, Bangkok (nationthailand.com)

Jimmy Choo opens 3rd store in Thailand at Central Embassy Mall, Bangkok

FashionDec 03. 2020

By The Nation

The glittering designs of Jimmy Shoo have another showcase in Bangkok with the launch of a shimmering new store designed in partnership with New York-based Christian Lahoude Studio.

The outlet at Central Embassy Mall provides a glamorous and sophisticated journey through Choo’s creations with its elegant use of brass and gold ceiling features.

On show are signature and seasonal collections, along with a new selection of festive products designed to add flair to upcoming Christmas and New Year celebrations.

Jimmy Choo: Cinderella edition (Red mix and Rose mix)

Jimmy Choo: Cinderella edition (Red mix and Rose mix)

But the stars of the show are the signature Jimmy Choo Bing slippers, adorned with crystals and pearl bracelet and perfect for a glamourous night out. Meanwhile fairy tales come true with the Cinderella crystal shoes, an iconic glass slipper reimagined with over 7,000 princess-worthy Swarovski crystals.

Jimmy Choo: Cinderella edition

Jimmy Choo: Cinderella edition

Choo has designed an exquisite one-of-a-kind gift box for the crystal stilettos or precious jewellery. For a limited time only, it comes free with the Cinderella shoes or with a one-time purchase over Bt150,000.

Nike taps 3M tech to create kaleidoscopic sneakers #SootinClaimon.Com

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Nike taps 3M tech to create kaleidoscopic sneakers (nationthailand.com)

Nike taps 3M tech to create kaleidoscopic sneakers

FashionNov 26. 2020

By The Nation

Sportswear brand Nike has injected colour into the “new normal” by tapping 3M technology for its latest editions of Force, Air Max and Blazer sneakers being shipped to Thailand.

Surfing a Southeast Asia sneaker boom that’s seen 40 per cent growth in the market this year, Nike has used 3M tech to create a Kaleidoscope Effect in its latest foot candy. The new sneakers sport a dazzling image that changes shape and colour according to the viewer’s perspective.

Four models of Nike 3M shoes are available in Thailand. The Nike Air Force 1 Low 3M comes in four colours – black, blue, red and cyan-yellow. The Nike Blazer Mid Vintage 77 3M comes in six colours – green, white-yellow, white-blue, black, red and blue. The Nike React Vision 3M offers a choice of six colours – red, dark green, black-yellow-pink, blue-orange, white and all black. And the Nike Air Max 95 3M comes in blue-pink, black-white, solid black, red, white and dark green.

The Nike Air Force 1

The Nike Air Force 1

Nike Air Max 95

Nike Air Max 95Nike Blazer Mid VintageNike Blazer Mid Vintage

‘Isaan look’ goes global with Burberry’s first Thai male model #SootinClaimon.Com

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‘Isaan look’ goes global with Burberry’s first Thai male model

FashionNov 18. 2020

By The Nation

Zak Srakeaw has become the first Thai male “face” of international fashion brand Burberry, following in the footsteps of his female compatriot Jan Baiboon.

Jan hit the global limelight when she sashayed down Burberry’s London catwalk in February.

Now, Zak has been chosen to front the “Burberry Holiday 2020” video campaign, currently appearing on screens around the world.

Born in Roi Et province, Zak moved with his mother to Manchester in the north of England at the age of 11.

Despite his classic Isaan looks and 6-foot frame, Zak’s big break in modelling didn’t come easy. He said he faced many disappointments but refused to give up, before finally catching the eye of Burberry.

Burberry taps soccer star Marcus Rashford for charity programs #SootinClaimon.Com

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Burberry taps soccer star Marcus Rashford for charity programs

FashionNov 03. 2020

Marcus Rashford

Marcus Rashford

By Bloomberg
Tiago Ramos Alfaro

British luxury brand Burberry is partnering with the Manchester United’s star and youth advocate to help with a series of charity initiatives.

Soccer player Marcus Rashford was recently thrown into the public spotlight after leading a campaign to provide free meals for the poorest children in England, and helping put pressure on the U.K. government to support struggling families over the holidays.

In picking up on the player’s recent activism, Burberry said Monday it has recruited Rashford to collaborate on programs ranging from education to helping entrepreneurs to support young people.

Burberry is also committing to support Rashford’s childhood centers in Manchester, Norbrook Youth Club and Woodhouse Park Lifestyle Centre, and working with other organizations in the country and abroad.

Mulberry launches first fully sustainable leather tote #SootinClaimon.Com

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Mulberry launches first fully sustainable leather tote

FashionOct 16. 2020

By The Nation

Mulberry has launched the Portobello Tote, its first 100 per cent sustainable leather bag.

Made entirely in the UK at Mulberry’s carbon-neutral Somerset factories, the bag uses heavy-grain leather – a by-product of food production – from a gold-rated tannery.

The Portobello is unlined and stitched with Epic EcoVerde thread, a recycled polyester fibre. The streamlined tote also features double loop handles and a shoulder strap, so it can be carried or worn across the body.

“Our starting point for this family was the ultimate everyday item, the plastic bag – functional, but throwaway. The Portobello keeps the beautiful utility of this silhouette and elevates it into an elegant tote that is practical and, more importantly, made to last,” said Johnny Coca, Mulberry creative director.

The bag will be available in store and at mulberry.com in a range of signature and seasonal shades: Black, Midnight, Chestnut, Nordic Blue, Crimson, Tangerine Orange and Mulberry Green.

UK fashion brand Paul Smith marks 50 years with launch of new foundation, book of 50 objects #SootinClaimon.Com

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UK fashion brand Paul Smith marks 50 years with launch of new foundation, book of 50 objects

FashionOct 14. 2020

By The Nation

Paul Smith, born in Nottingham on July 5, 1946, was an avid cyclist until he was 17, when a road accident put paid to his competitive dreams.

He then found himself in a new world of creative young people and embarked on a life-long journey of discovery in design, music and fashion.

He met his now wife Pauline when he was 21, and she introduced him to visual arts, cinema and much more. Her influence and training at the Royal College was instrumental in developing Smith’s understanding and skill in tailoring and garment design.

He opened his first shop called Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Homme in Nottingham in 1970 and sold established brands alongside pieces he had designed himself.

In 1976, Smith travelled to Paris to showcase his first men’s collection, which featured a mix of casual and semi-formal wear. The brand continued to grow, with the first flagship London store opening in 1979.

Smith has grown to become one of Britain’s top designers, known for his creative spirit, which combines tradition with modernity. Individuality is key to the Paul Smith ethos and this theme carries through all collections and products that the company creates. Paul Smith is synonymous with colour and playful design, most represented by the iconic stripe which has had many incarnations over the years.

From its origins in one small shop in Nottingham Paul Smith has grown into a global business, selling to five continents, over 70 countries and 3,000 shops. Paul Smith remains an independent company, with Smith himself holding the majority stake.

The 50th anniversary of the brand will be marked by the launch of a book celebrating the designer’s inspirations through portraits of 50 objects. The book puts together the selected objects along with quotes and contributions from many of Smith’s friends and collaborators during his 50 years in business.

A 50th anniversary capsule collection of casual menswear and womenswear looks into the vast back-catalogue of photo prints that Smith has created over the years. Archive graphics spanning 1988 to 2002 offer a snapshot of Smith’s vivid approach to design. This year not only sees the brand’s 50th anniversary, but also the launch of the Paul Smith’s Foundation. Launched in September 2020, the foundation will provide advice to creative people via a digital platform, which will list all the he has given and received over the last 50 years. Having advised many young people looking to grow their own businesses – a testament to Smith’s drive to always look ahead.

Diesel goes ‘green’ with its latest collection #SootinClaimon.Com

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Diesel goes ‘green’ with its latest collection

FashionOct 07. 2020

By The Nation

Fashion brand Diesel has gone “green” with this year’s autumn/winter collection in line with its “responsible living” strategy, which was first launched at the start of this year.

The strategy is based on four key pillars, namely be the alternative, stand for the planet, celebrate individuality and promote integrity.

The green strategy started with Diesel’s spring/summer collection this year, in which it launched new styles produced in line with its sustainability strategy.

Its latest collection, titled “Respectful Denim with Diesel DNA” features classic jeans in vintage wash, some with laser-etched scratches and abrasions. These garments were created using innovative techniques that significantly reduce the use of water and chemicals during the production process. Every pair is treated with a minimal amount of chemicals and up to 40 per cent less water.

The t-shirts, sweatshirts and hoodies in the collection are made from organic cotton and recycled polyester made from consumer waste – think used plastic bottles and factory waste.

The collection is marked with a graphic of recycling arrows forming the letter “D”.

Diesel has also introduced flannel shirts made entirely of organic cotton grown without the use of synthetic chemicals or genetically modified seeds, as well as outerwear for men made of 75 per cent recycled wool.

The collection stands out thanks to Diesel’s Green Label, which identifies responsible practices and minimal impact on the environment.