Royal collection to be launched

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Royal collection to be launched

fashion March 07, 2019 01:00

By THE NATION

2,563 Viewed

Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana, creative director of Sirivannavari Bangkok, brings the Sirivannavari and S’Homme spring and summer 2019 collections to Royal Paragon Hall, Siam Paragon Shopping Complex on Thursday (March 14) at 7pm.

 

The new collection incorporates an avant-garde silhouette with tribal influences and the artificial intelligence-inspired graphics.  The highlight of the collection is the complicated structure of the looks, exquisite embroidery and the graphic prints drawn by the Princess herself. The collections feature a the wide range of products from women and men’s ready to wear to leather goods, fashion accessories and jewellery.

Styles that remember

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  • Models present creations during the Fendi women's Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection fashion show./AFP Photo
    Models present creations during the Fendi women’s Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection fashion show./AFP Photo

Styles that remember

fashion February 27, 2019 01:00

By THE NATION

Fendi bids a final farewell to Karl Lagerfeld at Milan Fashion Week

Even as the global fashion industry continues to mourn the passing of Karl Lagerfeld, the greatest designer of the modern era, the show must go on. During the Milan Fashion Week, Fendi last week paid tribute to the great master by presenting the final collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld for the Fendi Women’s Autumn and Winter 2019-2020 collection.

“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He is already sorely missed,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of accessories and menswear and the third generation of the family’s brand.

Representing a lifetime of dedication and creation from 1965 until today, in his perpetual search for beauty and innovation, Lagerfeld’s commitment to his craft never waned. This collection embodied that devotion, from the season’s defining sketches to his ultimate Fendi gesture, the romantic trace of a silk foulard. Reflected in a multitude of ideas, each expression shown at Milan was innately and forever his own.

Eternally forward-looking, the silhouette was triumphant in its depth and majestic in its simplicity. The trompe l’oeil – an enduring signature – defined fabrications with an opulent hand, as architectural planes are shot through with an irresistible lightness. Neutral tones lifted through pale ivory tulle, warm cognac patent and terracotta calfskin to sublime shades of daffodil, sea green, tangerine and azure. Like petals or plumes, wallpaper prints became textures on cloque, organza and satin.

Drawn from a pagoda shoulder, zipped and double-breasted tailoring was nipped at the waist and threaded with floating bow belts. In cotton poplin and fine leather, pointed shirt collars buttoned high in Karl’s inimitable style were worn with full pleated trousers and under jackets with pockets and asymmetric lapels outlined in a slick shadow play. Diamond shapes abounded in the shifting lines of transparency, pleating and latticework transposed, one over the other, as wrap knife-pleated skirts, monogram tulle bodysuits and laser cut leather outerwear. Designed in 1981, Lagerfeld’s curling “Karligraphy” FF logo monogram appeared on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, as high-collared shift dresses whispered softly in diaphanous silk and honeycomb lace.

The accessories collection abounded with newness, as the Baguette was transformed in embossed pillow patent, topstitched vegetal leather and a multi-strap utility harness.

A spacious metal frame tote in shiny calf or Pequin stripe shearling folded into a clutch, while the Peekaboo echoes the season’s perforated techniques. Square-heeled flats or pointed high-heel boots in shiny neoprene and scrolling knitted neoprene continued the season’s shadow motif with a contrast sole and zipper.

Freezing the fat for added confidence

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Freezing the fat for added confidence

fashion February 20, 2019 01:00

By THANISORN THAMLIKITKUL  MD
Special to The Nation

3,045 Viewed

Did you make a New Year resolution to slim down and have a flat belly in time for Valentine’s Day so you could look sexy before summer?

If you did then woke up last Thursday realising that the stubborn belly fat hadn’t gone away even a little, then the good news is that you can still greet summer with a beach body.

There is a quick fix that can help you get rid of that unwanted fat and look slimmer without needles, a hospital stay or time off work but you need to start now.

Your body has a fixed number of fat cells that get bigger or smaller as you gain or lose weight. In other words, losing weight generally does not decrease the number of fat cells. Instead, it reduces the size of fat cells temporarily, leaving them in your body. Some people are unlucky in that no amount of diet and exer¬cise can help them sculpt their body. That’s the reason the technology called “CoolSculpting” has come in.

Since its FDA approval, CoolSculpting has become the gold standard in noninvasive belly sculpting. The technology is the brainchild of two doctors at Harvard University who realised that fat cells are particularly susceptible to the effect of cold, unlike other types of cells. Therefore, fat cells can be frozen and killed without doing any harm to surrounding tissue. They went on to develop a device that applies controlled cooling to a treat¬ment site. The device is indicated for freezing and breaking down of the targeted fat cells underneath the skin. The treated fat cells are frozen, then die and over a few weeks, the body’s own natural process works to remove and dispose of the dead fat cells. And best of all, they’re gone forever! Gradually, over a few months, your sleeker body should emerge.

Thanks to better technology, mainly in the form of CoolSculptins’s new applicators, nowadays spot treatments have become more tar¬geted and can be done in only 35 to 45 minutes. The new version of CoolSculpting means not only short¬er treatment times, but also greater comfort periods and better efficien¬cy. The most commonly treated areas include the stomach, the flanks, the thighs and the back. Other smaller areas like the upper arms and even under the chin can also be treated with the new mini applicator.

The eventual end result is an up to 25percent fat reduction in a treatment area, and it’s permanent. The number of treatments needed varies depending on how much fat you want to get rid of. The more treatments you have, the more results you’ll see.

However, it’s important to under¬stand that CoolSculpting is not a weight loss procedure. Freezing fat cells simply causes them to release their contents so they can be more easily burned off. Your weight will not change as a result of CoolSculpting alone – you have to eat right and exercise to see the best results.

With summer and vacations on the horizon, if the bulges on your belly have resisted all your efforts to diet or exercise them away, why not give yourself another chance by scheduling an appointment with a dermatologist to see if you’re a can¬didate for a fat removal procedure like CoolSculpting? Transforming your body is not easy but when it’s successful you will feel confident and love your figure. And there’s no better time to give yourself that chance than today.

THANISORN THAMLIKITKUL  MD is a member of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery and certified in dermatological laser surgery. Send your questions for her to info@romrawin.com

The most precious of petals

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The most precious of petals

fashion February 13, 2019 01:00

By The Nation

Bvlgari celebrates its new boutique at Iconsiam with the Thai launch of Fiorever

One of the latest luxury brands to open at Iconsiam, though certainly not the last, is Bvlgari, a name associated with jewellery for more than 100 years.

But it’s not just the precious metals and stones that have found their way to the bank of the Chao Phraya River. Bvlgari has also brought the timeless elegance of Rome’s Via dei Condotti, its home since 1905, to Bangkok, mirroring a design concept that draws on its Mediterranean origins and Roman traditions while meeting the modern shopping landmark. The grand opening event last week saw the presentation of Fiorever, a new enchanting diamond collection that symbolises the Roman passion for life.

Sze Lin Teo, Bvlgari regional marketing and communications director, Seri Souvanna Phouma, the brand’s commercial manager and Caroline Murphy of Siam Piwat were joined for the glittering event by Alisters and celebrity figฌures Chanya Sawangchit, Thawin Seawtong, Vatanika Patamasingha Na Ayudhya, Sonya Singha and Nittha Jirayungyurn.

The first tribute to the Roman DNA of the brand is the store’s outer facade, developed in partฌnership with MVRDV Studio. The facade design is mainly characฌterised by the repetition of the iconฌic shape of the portals at Via dei Condotti.

In a geometric yet asymmetric modularity made of waved brass and coloured glass windows, the doublestorey facade reproduces the different shades of the Roman sun as it lights the building during the day.

As always, the brand is placing innovation and creativity at the centre of its activities, reinterpretฌing its history according to contemporary architecture and design trends. The partnership between the Bvlgari internal design team and the Netherlandsbased architecture studio, started in 2016, leading to a first facade in Kuala Lumpur in early 2018, and now in 2019, in Bangkok.

The iconic Condotti portal shapes, inspired by Francesco Borromini, the Italian architect of the 17th century, who was a chief formulator of Baroque architectural style, underline Bvlgari’s presฌence and serve as the starting point of a journey into the Roman origins of the brand.

The floor at the entrance bears the brand’s signature eightpointฌed star in red porphyry. A univerฌsal symbol of balance, harmony and cosmic order, the eight lines symbolically represent the four cardiฌnal points (North, South, East, West) and time (two solstices and two equinoxes). According to the legend, the star stands for “Roma Caput Mundi”, meaning “all roads lead to Rome”. Italian marble is ubiquitous throughout the 180squaremetre boutique and the walls are decorated with vintage photographs of the brand’s most famous endorsers including Elizabeth Taylor.

Adorned with Imperial Saffron–colored shantung silk, the iconic Condotti windows on the walls also recall the warm Roman atmosphere and are a reproduction of the original windows still present in Bvlgari on Via dei Condotti.

From the main area, clients can access other rooms, which are more intimate and warm, where they can sit down and enjoy Bulgari creations with different levels of privacy, thanks to different flooring materials and decor characteristics.

And shoppers will certainly be interested in Fiorever, an entirely new collection of bold diamond jewellery. The name derives from Italian word for flower, “fiore”, and the English word “forever”, “Fiorever” establishes the flower as an official symbol of the Roman jeweller, one which it has interpreted with craftsmanship and creativity since 1920.

The collection’s signature is a wild bloom with four petals, plucked from Rome’s heritage. The gracious motif decorates many of the vestiges of the Roman Empire: the garden frescos of Villa di Livia, the sculptures of Palazzo Massimo, and the ceiling mosaics of the Santa Costanza Mausoleum, to name a few. Exclusively crafted with bold lines and priceless diamonds, the new icon is a sparkling joy.

The freespirited energy of Fiorever shines through the fourpetal flower, glittering with the highest quality diamonds (colour DF, clarity IFVVS). The centre is a precious solitaire from 0.10 to 0.50 carats, and around this immutable heart, the petals of each exquisite flower tilt upward, a display of Bvlgari’s trademark style of design through volume.

Beating behavioural ageing

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Beating behavioural ageing

fashion February 13, 2019 01:00

By Kupluthai Pungkanon
The Nation

2,457 Viewed

French skincare brand Sisley ups its fight against wrinkles

To fight against the inevitable wrinkles we all experience as we age, much of it caused by our unhealthy behaviour, French skincare expert Sisley Research is kick starting the year with the launch of its new serum Sisleya L’Integral Antiage AntiWrinkle Concentrated Serum.

“Sisley Research introduced its new Sisleya L’Integral Antiage line back in 2016 when we highlighted the impact of epigenetic factors on the appearance of the signs of ageฌing due to what we call behaviour ageing’. This focused on how our lifestyles and individual environฌments significantly influence the visible signs of skin ageing,” says Nicolas Chesnier, regional managฌing director.

“Since then, every product from this line has harnessed these techฌnological advancements, formulatฌed with a unique combination of key active ingredients – Persian acacia and lindera extracts, and yeast and soy protein complex– that target the cells’ lifecycle, which is to protect during the day and to repair during the night with the right energy and increase cell longevity.”

Last year the premium skincare brand launched, Sisleya L’Integral Antiage Firming Concentrated Serum and has continued its research into epigenetic factors by addressing the very source of behavฌioural ageing.

“Of course, we want to fight wrinฌkles. As we age, the skin loses its elasticity, and wrinkles gradually begin to form. We know about genetic and environmental ageing. But our lifestyle, in particular, is the multiple aggressor of our skin and what we are subjected to on a daily basis degrades the collagen and accelerates the formation of wrinฌkles. Every smile and emotion is slowly etched into our faces until those familiar expression lines start to appear. On top of these is such unhealthy behaviour as smoking, lack of sleep, lack of exercise, not drinking enough of water, and stressful lifestyle.” he notes.

“In 2019, Sisley Research has reached a major turning point in the fight against the visible signs of behavioural ageing. It has succeedฌed in optimising collagen producฌtion directly to help skin become visibly smoother with fewer wrinฌkles,” Chesnier continues. “The key ingredient, porcelain cacao extract, a new Sisley active ingredient, tarฌgets collagen to reawaken and kickstart its synthesis, which are silenced by negative behavioural factors and ageing. Wrinkles are also caused by significant structural and composiฌtional changes inside the dermis, which acts as the skin’s framework.”

The result is a powerful serum with a comprehensive antiwrinkle action that targets two completely new focuses –reawakening collagen production at its source and regenฌerating the extracellular matrix, that directly influence the producฌtion of collagen, which is essential for smoother skin. The result is a boost in the production of collagen.

The Sisleya AntiWrinkle Concentrated Serum is absorbed deep into the skin to act on the ExtraCellular Matrix on three levฌels for a comprehensive antiwrinkle action.

Soy peptide extract boosts the activity of fibroblasts, cells responฌsible for collagen production in the dermis, to increase dermal density and help achieve a powerful global antiwrinkle action. Blue agave yeast extract promotes the syntheฌsis of hyaluronic acid and replenฌishes the skin from within. Skin is hydrated and smoother and wrinฌkles are reduced. White willow leaf extract, which is rich in antioxidant polyphenols, helps to shield the derฌmal fibres from free radicals while slowing down collagen and elastin degradation to give fewer wrinkles. The antifree radical and antioxiฌdant properties of tanninrich roseฌhip extract boost the effects of the white willow leaf extract and proฌtect the skin from oxidative stress caused by factors such as pollution and a stressful lifestyle. Lastly, moisฌturising and softening Iris extract inhibits hyaluronidase activity (an enzyme that breaks down hyaluronฌic acid). It works to protect the hyaluronic acid, the synthesis of which has already been boosted by the blue agave yeast extract.

Sisleya L’Integral Antiage AntiWrinkle Concentrated Serum can be found at Sisley counters in all leading department stores.

Nuts, bolts and nails

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Nuts, bolts and nails

fashion February 06, 2019 01:00

By Kupluthai Pungkanon
The Nation

5,901 Viewed

Cartier celebrates its Juste un Clou bracelet in Bangkok with a starstudded party and a lowerkey ex

Leading global brand Cartier marked the start of 2019 by cele¬brating the spirit of its iconic Juste un Clou and Ecrou de Cartier jew¬ellery inspired by nails, nuts and bolts, hosting the Cartier Precious Garage in Bangkok for the first time and at an unconventional venue – a warehouse in Khlong Toei.

The brand’s avantgarde art installation concept on the theme “When the Ordinary Becomes Precious” was designed by New Yorkbased Puerto Rican visual artist Desi Santiago to showcase the creative twist on everyday objects that makes the ordinary exquisite. Adding to the sparkle of the centrepiece – a unique gold Corvette – were Thai superstars Mark Prin, Mario Maurer, Natapohn “Taew” Tameeruks, Jarinporn “Toey” Joonkiat, Thanapobb “Tor” Leelutanakajorn, Sunny Suwanmethanont and Gunn Svasti as well as Alisters Sonya Singha, Jay and Jareyadee Spencer, Tirawan Taechaubol, Kanachai Bencharongkul, Patsarakorn Chirathivat, Gulapat Kanokwatanawan, Karoon Sosothikul, Orawan Ingkhasit and Tachamapan Chanchamrassang.

Despite the smog that has been plaguing Bangkok for the past few weeks, a long red carpet was laid out outside the warehouse leading to the cavernous space within, which had been transformed into a world where form and mechan¬ics collided in a novel art installa¬tion concept realised as Cartier Precious Garage. True to the refined Cartier touch, every detail of the event had its own implica¬tion.

A gold shipping container greet¬ed guests at the entrance, confirm¬ing the arrival of Cartier Precious Garage in Thailand. A gold tunnel guided guests to the highlight installation – an exceptional gold Corvette flanked by two large walls, one in gold adorned with Corvette parts and components, and the other in white displaying mechan¬ic’s tools.

The interior was inspired by two of Cartier’s iconic collections. A nail turned into jewellery, the famous Juste un Clou collection was creat¬ed for Cartier in the 1970s by Italian designer Aldo Cipullo who left his homeland to pursue his dream in New York. An expression of a rebel¬lious nature. Cipullo’s radical appropriation of a utilitarian object as a piece of jewellery echoed the anticonformist state of mind of the era.

Cartier used the party to intro¬duce the new slimmer, flexible ver¬sion of the Juste un Clou bracelet, which wraps around the wrist in a single bold motion. Available in yellow and pink gold, it can be worn alone or alongside the original or even with the Love collection.

Cartier wrapped the special evening with an after party where guests were fully entertained by celebrated Korean DJ Tim Thal, a star of the Ultra Music Festival.

And you don’t have to be celebri¬ty to appreciate the jewellery. The entire Cartier Precious Garage art installation is now featured in a popup exhibition at Siam Paragon’s Hall of Fame on M Level until Sunday.

Dressing up to Dressing up to Welcome the pig

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  • Emporio Armani
  • Burberry

Dressing up to Dressing up to Welcome the pig

fashion January 30, 2019 01:00

By The Nation

The world’s best-known brands mark the Chinese New Year with new takes on classic designs

THE CHINESE NEW YEAR or the spring festival is a time of change and new beginnings, and a time too for showing off new clothes and accessories on visits to friends and family on New Year’s Day. It’s believed that new clothes are auspicious and can protect the wearer from evil spirits and misfortune.

Red represents good fortune and joy. Chinese people decorate their homes with red lanterns to ward off bad luck. Still, the most popular way to celebrate the Chinese New Year is to hand out red envelopes filled with money.

Equally traditional is the belief in Chinese astrology with 12 animals of the zodiac representing the year when you born and how it will affect your life throughout the year. 2019 is the Year of Pig!

And, as ever, the world’s leading brands are aiming to attract Chinese spenders with special designs to celebrate the grand festival.

Polpat Asavaprapa, founder and creative director of Asava Group and president of Bangkok Fashion Society, notes that fashionistas should have no problems looking the part during the festivities if they follow a few tips.

                                                                             ASV

“Red is a naturally strong and bold colour. My tip for wearing a successful red look is to balance the colour with embroidery that is not too dramatic and not too sexy because the whole purpose of dressing up is to visit family and respected elders. In a strict family, tradition demands that the entire dress is red. So mixing in black may not be a good idea. You may wear the red dress with red lipstick if you are confident but you can also tone things down with a nude lipstick. My family also celebrates the Chinese New Year and I think tradition is very important in the way it pays respect to ancestors.”

In term of designing a special collection for the occasion, Polpat says he relies on demand and supply. Marketing with faith is the most powerful tool, he adds.

“I’ve created a modern take on the traditional Chinese gown known as the qipao’ in Thai or Cheongsam for the ASV collection. The look is straightforward but chic, easy to wear and comfortable.”

Burberry turns to Chinese actresses and newly appointed brand ambassadors Zhao Wei and Zhou Dongyu for its Chinese New Year campaign, which celebrates family traditions and togetherness. Shot and directed by photographer Ethan James Green and inspired by classic portraiture, the campaign is reimagined in an informal urban environment, juxtaposing the old and the new, the traditional and the contemporary.

The focus is on classic Burberry pieces including archive-print scarves and the trench coat contrasting with urban staples including hoodies, shirts and joggers, all of which are available globally online and in-store from today.

“A family portrait is a very simple concept, but the ceremonial sense behind it holds so much more. For me, being able to go home once a year to spend quality time with my family is something I value above all else, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything,” Zhou Dongyu stated in a release.

Emporio Armani presents a new collection for Chinese New Year with pieces in which the animal that is this year’s symbol of the Chinese zodiac – the pig –is seen in a tribal version in the men’s range, resulting in looks that are fun and urban. The men’s range has a street feel, comprising branded t-shirts and sweatshirts paired with skinny jeans. The palette is very distinct, in shades of red and black, and the seasonal print is featured on all the garments.

In keeping with the traditional hues of Lunar New Year, Michael Kors’ campaign highlights the Mott camera bag in red, the petal quilted Whitney shoulder bag also in red, the Rhea backpack in black and the white Poppy lace-up sneaker – all of which feature glamorous gold detailing. This year’s money envelopes highlight the jet set lifestyle and heritage with a small plane motif and the skylines of Paris, New York and Shanghai. The envelopes, available for Michael Kors customers worldwide, come packaged in a glamorous, specially made box.

                                                                Michael Kors

The Cos limited-edition collection of wardrobe staples is reimagined and styled alongside timeless pieces in rich navy and textured neutrals across womenswear, menswear and childrenswear. The holiday celebrates tradition, friends and family and this sense of togetherness comes to life in the campaign imagery.

Inspired by the brand’s signature Patricia shoulder bag, MCM releases a two-fold wallet in minimal sophistication. Crafted from Visetos, its streamlined shape is beautifully accented by a contrast front flap in the finest Spanish leather. Inside there are twelve card slots, a bill sleeve and a zipped pocket that’s perfect for stashing coins. It is also fitted with a removable chain that lets be carried over the shoulder as a compact purse.

In celebration the Year of the Pig, Bottega Veneta introduces a unique selection of leather goods, shoes and jewellery. A long-time symbol of luck and fortune in Chinese culture, the pig is interpreted on men’s jewellery and a selection of playful charms, including the nappa leather and hand-enamelled key rings. The pig is also featured on the engraved gold plaque of the women’s Intrecciato Checker sneakers, made in a rich palette of Baccara Rose, Deco Rose and Poppy.

                                                                                             Bottega Venetta

The selection of items includes men’s wallets, pouches, tech accessories, bags, and slip-on sneakers featuring the Tartan Dots craftsmanship in varying shades of

blue and red. The intricate workmanship, introduced for Cruise 2019, provides a unique three-dimensional effect through an exclusive serigraphic printing technique.

Furla presents a new print for the Furla Metropolis S Size. The new bag is part of the Cruise 2019 collection, and brings delicate elements, which define the Serenity print, borrowed from the oriental aesthetic, to the iconic Furla crossbody. It is a tribute to the Year of the Pig with the print boasting a finely drawn graphic representation of the animal, stylised, in white on a red background and surrounded by pink flowers with white petals, and pale yellow ochre pistils.

The piglet, symbol of the new Marni Capsule Collection, comes from an imaginary universe dedicated to the Chinese New Year. A range of accessories for her and a new original version of Big Foot sneakers for him pay homage to the twelfth protagonist of the Chinese horoscope, as well as the sign’s cheerful and dreamy character. Sophisticated and versatile, the necklace features a stylised and semi-rigid jewel pendulum for a rebel touch when juxtaposed with a thin leather strap. The pendant is also the protagonist of the key ring charm, characterised by a snap hook and contrast leather structure. The jewellery range is completed by an ironic pair of pig-shaped earrings.

                                                                                 Marni

Earlier this year, British luxury brand, Mulberry introduced a line of bag scarves that can be added to the handles of any accessory for a poetic styling touch. For Lunar New Year, the brand collaborated with artist Li Rui on a bespoke printed scarf design inspired by the traditional landscapes that are prominent in ancient Chinese artworks. The artist’s signature has been worked into the design, adding an element of modernity. The collection features two much-loved silhouettes, the Small Amberley Satchel and the Mini Seaton – available in Scarlet or Black Croc Printed leather. Both styles feature the brand’s signature equestrian inspired Rider’s Lock and detachable straps in keeping with the heritage, form and functionality that is at the heart of every design.

Leading Italian brand Tod’s presents a special collection emphasising

the pig as the symbol of wealth and fortune. Designs include a tiny leather charm in the shape of a pig, ready to stick to bags and smartphone cases and sneakers for women in white or metallic pink and personalised with leather wings.

Tory Burch too marks the occasion with red for good luck, and a touch of gold on clothing, handbags and chic accessories, while Peggy the Pig Mini Bag shines in mirror-finish gold leather.

Looking for a new bottom line

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  • Bottoms up: A pair of pants by French lingerie company Aubade. /AFP
  • Aubade’s Martina Brown /AFP

Looking for a new bottom line

fashion January 21, 2019 01:00

By Agence France-Presse
Paris

After #MeToo, lingerie designers are having to explore new ways of advertising their products

“WE HAVEN’T yet found a better way of selling knickers than a beautiful bottom,” says Sarah Stagliano, one of a new breed of French lingerie designers grappling with how to make exciting underwear in the age of #MeToo.

With G-strings and push-up bras losing their allure as ultra sexiness gives ways to comfort, and the whole idea of seduction being questioned, designers are grappling with how to be interesting without objectifying women.

Aubade, one of France’s leading lingerie brands, does not shy away from sex in its advertising.

But it found itself at the centre of controversy last month over a huge poster of a pair of perfectly rounded buttocks wearing embroidered panties.

Bottoms up: A pair of pants by French lingerie company Aubade./AFP

Hung from the facade of one of Paris’ biggest department stores, it sparked a furious response from the city’s deputy equality chief who called for it to be taken down.

Communist councillor Helene Bidard accused the brand of objectifying a “faceless” woman and demanded “the immediate withdrawal of this sexist campaign”.

Others, however, countered that women’s rights tended to be the least respected in countries where such billboards were banned.

“We were not expecting the fuss,” says Aubade boss Martina Brown.

The brand’s “Lessons in Seduction” ad campaign sparked similar horror 25 years ago, she said, when it urged women to “keep it spicy” and “let the situation work to your advantage”.

“It shocked people but that did not stop women buying the lingerie nor the brand evolving,” says the German-born managing director.

“Women love to see fine embroidery and lace; it talks to them, and that is why we have been zooming in on the underwear.

“We have to cut off the models’ heads in the photos otherwise we can’t show the detailing,” she insisted.

Nor did she feel that impossible body standards were being set for women.

“Twenty years ago some brands used ordinary women rather than models for their ads. We prefer to let people dream,” Brown adds.

Aubade’s Martina Brown /AFP

Aubade showed its latest smalls a;ongside 15 other big French brands at a huge “Lingerie Rocks” show this weekend during Paris fashion week.

The line-up also included Henriette H, a young label at the other end of the spectrum, which works mostly on Instagram.

Its creator Stagliano opened her boutique on a street in central Paris once known for its bordellos.

Stagliano has tried to capture something of that risque air by putting her changing rooms in the window.

It is up to the customers whether they pull the curtain or not.

Nor is her label averse to some rather provocative embroidery, with an explicit come-on delicately sewn into the arm of a chemise.

“I can see how all this could be taken badly,” she says. “But a woman should be at liberty to put herself in the window if she wants to. It’s about reappropriation.”

And according to Stagliano, 36, that also extends to women being free to choose whether they want “to be a sexual object”.

Simone Perele lingerie company head of technical development, AnneMarie Afflard./AFP

She backs her model, Jazzmine, who is in her 30s, and refuses to be photoshopped even if her breasts have “fallen perhaps a little” after she breastfed her baby.

Jazzmine has been the face of the brand for six years and “will still be in 10 years”, Stagliano declares.

In this line of fashion, sensual photo shoots are a must, she says.

“To sell a pair of knickers you need a pair of buttocks because that is where you wear them,” the designer adds.

“We haven’t yet found a better way to sell them than a beautiful bottom.

“If I was using a woman’s rear end to sell cream” that would be another thing, Stagliano argues.

The Simone Perele brand takes a far more restrained view.

For last year it has been showing its creations in still life draped on the end of a sofa, or glimpsed on a sportswoman or writer.

“There is another way of doing it,” says Stephanie Perele, the granddaughter of the label’s founder, who says women have had enough of photoshopped images.

Renaud Cambuzat, a fashion photographer who is now artistic director of the Chantelle group, said there were still nowhere near enough underwear choices for modern women, who are “complex, multifaceted and ever changing”.

At one extreme you have the ailing American giant Victoria’s Secret, he says, “which seems totally oblivious to #MeToo” and whose difficulties show that “we could be seeing the end of an era”.

On the other “there is the opposite extreme where you can no longer see the form of the body and we are in a kind of cartoonish plus-sized” universe.

“Even after #MeToo we are stuck with a lot of stereotypes. Lots of things are changing but there is still a way to go,” Cambuzat argues.

Colour me Uniqlo

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362418

Colour me Uniqlo

fashion January 17, 2019 12:15

By The Nation

Uniqlo, the Japanese global apparel retailer, will launch its U 2019 Spring/Summer collection at its stores and its website tomorrow (January 18).

The Christophe Lemaire-led design team at the Uniqlo Paris R&D Centre has once again drawn on new materials and advanced technology in exploring and innovating clothing essentials. This latest U collection is inspired by saturated earth tones countering rich, tinted hues and bold accents. Garment details and silhouettes have been simplified to accentuate Uniqlo U’s most ambitious palette to date. The result is a spirited celebration of colour applied across a canvas of iconic wardrobe essentials, each thoughtfully reconsidered and realised in its purest form, complemented by a redesigned collection logo to offer a new look for Uniqlo U LifeWear.

Mainstay crewneck T-shirts include new silhouettes and come in 12 vivid colour variations for men and 13 for women. New this season are crewneck T-shirts made from soft fabrics and with casual boxy silhouettes. For men, these items include six with solid colours and four with border hues. There are 10 solid colours for women.

Uniqlo U range’s first-ever linen pieces, with dynamic patterns and colour blocks are also being introduced. The collection will offer linen shirts for men, the first time this fabric has appeared in the collection. The soft fabric combines with an attractively straight silhouette to complete a contemporary look. For women, the line-up incorporates dynamic patterns that complement vibrant seasonal hues.

Special patterns feature on open collar shirts, shorts, and dresses. The popular swimwear range offers new designs in green, yellow, and pale pink. The reduction in braided seams ensures incredible comfort, making the swimwear perfect for the beach and for exercising. The range comprises six items, including a bikini and a one-piece.

For details, check out http://www.Uniqlo.com/UniqloU.

Colour it Beautiful

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362343

  • Etro
  • Emporio Armani
  • marni

Colour it Beautiful

fashion January 16, 2019 01:00

By The Nation, Agencies

Frankenstein prints, red leather trousers and dressinggown style coats make an impression in Milan

After threeandahalf intense days, Milan Fashion Week drew to a close on Monday and handed over to Paris for the next stage in Europe’s season.

Here is an overview of the main trends for men’s fashion as well as women’s styles for the AutumnWinter 20192020 season, plus a short commentary on some of the more remarkable outtakes from the shows.

In red and black

For many designers this season was all about red and black.

For fashion house MSGM, men wore red leather trousers with black stripes on the side accompanied by mixed colour jackets.

versace

For Versace, the letter V covered their twotone pullovers, while at Prada women wore red derbies with elegant black dresses and men posed in burgundy vests and black jackets.

Leopard, snake or fish?

The animal world also inspired this season. At Versace, men wore long leopardprint coats with short hair dyed to match.

Snakeskin prints were on shirts at Marni and on overcoats and pants for M1992. Dsquared2 offered fishscales in multicoloured tones.

Emporio Armani offered a python effect on men’s pants and jackets, as well as a zebra blazer.

Dolce and Gabbana

Flashy colours

Another trend this season is the use of audacious combinations of colour.

Men at MSGM showed off an extravagant mix of fluorescent yellow sweater collars with orange wind¬breakers and pink trousers, as well as various other combinations.

Orange was also a key colour in trousers and jackets by John Richmond.

Meanwhile, Versace offered men the chance to wear suits with black and yellow stripes and a flashy pink overcoat.

Fur on display

At Prada, black caps were on dis¬play with reversable furry insides and colourful trims.

Fur also made an appearance on epaulettes or tassels, inspired by cer¬emonial military style wear.

At Emporio Armani fur also appeared on bags and backpacks, and Fendi showed off camelhair jackets.

Emporio Armani

Italian oomph from D&G

Dolce and Gabbana mixed checks, furry gloves and shimmering dressing gownstyle coats in their first presen¬tation after the fashion house was forced to apologise to Chinese cus¬tomers in November  for posting short clips on Instagram showing a Chinese woman eating pizza, spaghetti and a cannoli with chopsticks.

The uproar escalated when Stefano Gabbana allegedly used poop emojis to describe China and hurled insults at the country and its people.

But the pair steered clear of con¬troversy in Milan with a collection named Eleganza.

The backdrop oozed 1930s Berlin decadence with giant red curtains, jazz and a master of ceremonies recre¬ating a Cabaret ambience.

To highlight Italy’s mastery of cloth, an atelier was also recreated with tai¬lors and fitters taking measurements and cutting and stitching as the mod¬els walked up and down the ramp.

Models showcased quirky styles, teaming tailcoats with plaid trousers, matador suits with sparkling bow ties and a ginger velvet suit with black lapels.

D&G did not skimp on Hollywoodlevel glamour incorporating colours such as midnight blue, burgundy and deep purple.

A study in contrasts

The Prada Men’s and Women’s Fall/Winter 2019 offered a roman¬ticpop vision playing with the ten¬sion between human sensitivity and the dangerous roughness of life.

Shown in the grand hall of the Deposito, the multifunctional venue for performances that is part of the Fondazione Prada complex, the label had its models walk, distanced from the crowd, through an artificial ter¬rain made of dimly lit glass and soft spiky foam, reminiscent of a scene from a science fiction movie.

Prada

Military influences blended with traditional shapes, precision tailor¬ing and pocket details. Outfits were sculpted with bustiers and belts to create sleek, formfitting looks while padded nylon was paired up with classic fabrics and shapes. Backpacks, always in padded nylon, metaphorically represented one’s own personal baggage.

Prints showed exaggerated romantic symbols mixed with pop cartoon symbols, like broken hearts, roses, Frankenstein and lightning.

Classic fabrics included silk, wool gabardine, cashmere, kid mohair, a mohair/alpaca blend, nylon, tela tec¬nica pro, embroidered cotton, English formal fabrics such as Prince of Wales, and pinstripes.

Back to the future

For Marni, artistic director Francesco Risso explored the desires of the new and rebellious generation who know what they like and go all out to get it. Stylish and sometimes quirky, his wardrobe was simple with a bold silhouette and boasting plen¬ty of loose fitting and colourful casu¬als such as extralong trousers, striped mohair jumpers as well as animal printed parkas and anoraks. Silk shirts and pyjamalike trousers were splashed with vibrant patterns drawn from Bruno Bozzetto’s 1976 animation “Allegro non troppo”.

There was classic too –boucle coats, moleskin jackets and trousers and oxford shirts, all in bold pro¬portions. Leather jackets were worn with misaligned pinstripes and banana sock boots,

Mysteries of the forest

Etro recounted a dreamlike tale through an installation conceived in the boutique of via Monte Napoleone, guiding the viewer through an enchanted forest burst¬ing with flowers, fairies and elves in its menswear collection.

Fairy’s flowers grew on a printed fabric jacket, while the bomber jack¬et with warm autumnal colours were woven with silk threads for a threedimensional jacquard tale. The bark took on unusual shapes and colours on a velvet dressing gown with car¬nelian tones embellished with jew¬elled brooches.

The soft trench coats were rebuilt and destructured for a relaxed yet refined fit, while the trousers with side band hinted at an urban verti¬cal forest.

The colours, from warm and diur¬nal, were mysterious and elusive while materials were fine, transforming the contemporary nature of the oversized parka with quilted hood into a medievalstyle tapestry, in which the gobelin fabric was combined with flo¬ral flock for a velvety touch.

Different materials and colours intertwined; for example, velvet was adorned with a golden patina and combined with tonsurton orna¬mental patterns.

Etro

Urban meets jungle

The energy of the animal world and the wideopen spaces of natural sce¬narios freed up the horizon of the con¬crete jungle and the natural ambience of the Emporio Armani man. This col¬lection was designed for this hybrid habitat, with a pragmatic and sporty imprint yet remained urban at its core.

Narrowshouldered jackets, coats with strong volume, fluid trousers with a cuff at the hem shaped a physical, svelte silhouette. The sensuous tex¬tures and the colours were the distin¬guishing features, creating a signature made up of cool colours, as well as wild patterns inspired by the coats of Albino animals.

Carding, lasering, screenprinting and other artisanal techniques pro¬duced animal motifs on clothes and accessories: pythoneffects on trousers and jackets, crocodile scales on blousons, feline stripes and zebra pat¬terns on evening blazers and pullovers.

The palette was an icy mixture of optical white and cool white, with notes of grey with a frosted patina and blue, red, and black accents in the checks and prince of Wales patterns.

The look was rounded off with technicallooking shoes, roomy fur backpacks, flat duffel bags with zebra stripes and body pieces such as belt bags and vests.