Suphan Buri province, 130 kilometres northwest of Bangkok, never lack ideas to attract visitors. The province continuously promotes various activities and attractions, among them the Suphan Buri Flower Festival showcasing tulips and other cold–climate flowers, the Promise of Love to celebrate Valentine’s Day and the Candle Festival marking the Buddhist Lent. Those wanting to escape Bangkok for the weekend can enjoy the 100-year-old Samchuk Market, Wat Pa Lelai Worawihan, an old temple that is mentioned in the famous Thai literary work “Khun Chang Khun Pan” and the recently built Dragon Descendants Museum, which symbolises the close relationship between the Thais and Chinese.

It is also home to one of Thailand’s less famous gems, the U Thong National Museum, which sits solemnly and largely unadvertised on Malaiman Road in U Thong district. Established in 1966, it houses precious artefacts from the Buddhist kingdom of Dvaravati.

Compared to the busy National Museum in Bangkok, which sees swarms of Chinese and European tourists, the U Thong National Museum is peaceful and laid back. The lack of tourists allows visitors to appreciate the artefacts at their own pace and there are no restrictions on photographs though the flash is not allowed.

The significance of U Thong, which literally means golden cradle, was recognised when Prince Damrong Rajanubhab, the Father of Thai History, visited Suphan Buri in 1903. He surveyed the ancient city of U Thong and later wrote about it in his official report and in his book, “Nithan Borankhadee”.

Prince Damrong worked closely with French scholar Georges Coedes to classify unearthed artefacts from various historical sites in Thailand and the two historians came to the conclusion that the land on which present-day Thailand is situated was much older than the Khmer period. They suggested that the artefacts were associated with the Dvaravati Kingdom, which was mentioned by Chinese Buddhist monk Hiuan-tsang in ancient chronicles, where he referred to the Buddhist kingdom of To-lo-po-ti (Dvaravati) as being situated to the west of Isanapura (Cambodia). Specialists of ancient Chinese texts had already surmised that the “To lo po ti” – sometimes rendered “Duoluobodi” – probably derived from the Sanskrit word Dvaravati (meaning “with doors”), a name used for a town in Indian mythology.

The term Dvaravati was then used to indicate a kingdom – or a collection of city-states – encompassing a large part of the territories of what is today modern Thailand.

Coedes also suspected that Dvaravati art might have influenced Southeast Asian art and that its people were Mon, as traces of the language were evident in Lop Buri, Haripunjaya and perhaps even on an inscription discovered in Ratchaburi. He surmised that the Dvaravati Kingdom, which may have existed as early as the fifth century, declined under the pressure from both the Khmer and the Thai in the 11th century

In 1961, the Fine Arts Department further excavated and restored old structures scattered around U Thong. French art historian Jean Boisselier later excavated and studied the ruins in U Thong between 1964 and 1966, paving the way for U Thong to become a rich resource for Dvaravati studies.

Some of the artefacts excavated from the ancient city led academics to believe that U Thong, rather than Nakhon Pathom as previously thought, was where Buddhism was first introduced to Thailand. It is also believed to have been the centre of Buddhism, culture and the international marine trade port some 2,500 to 3,000 years ago.

Housing various excavated artefacts from the U Thong ancient city, the museum is thus a major learning centre for anyone interested in archaeology and history.

Two galleries in the first building display artefacts dating from the prehistoric era to the Dvaravati era. Of particular interest is a terracotta relief portraying three Buddhist monks carrying their alms bowls. The oldest Buddhist artefact to be found in Thailand, it is so beautifully rendered that the delicate pattern of the flowing robe transmits a sense of the breeze cooling the three monks.

“This set of Wheels of the Law or Dharmacakra, the rectangular supporting base and the eight-edged pillar is very precious and absolutely unique as it is the only complete set found in perfect condition in Thailand. Dharmacakra with protective or beneficent motifs and deer represent the first preaching of Buddha at Benares. We are very lucky to have excavated this piece from U Thong ancient city and exhibit it here,” the museum officer tells the small group of tourists from Bangkok.

The Mon art of Dvaravati results from the synthesis of local cultural traditions and certain fundamental elements of India such as religion, languages and concept of royalty. These elements were transmitted to Southeast Asia along the commercial routes that linked these regions to the Indian sub-continent.

“The Sanskrit inscription engraved on copper is evidence that ancient people in this area were influenced by Indian culture. Roman coins and other ancient coins from China and Arabia are excellent archaeological indicators of ancient trade as they often give an idea of the place and the time they were created. Native coins with images of a conch and the sun were also found here. These coins are evidence that U Thong was an international marine trade hub,” the officer continues.

One of the artefacts in perfect condition is the Gutu or Chandra Sala, a terracotta slab in the form of a window frame or arch. It is a part of the temple superstructure of ancient Indian design and represents paradise where the gods and goddesses live. The face in window motif has thick facial features characteristic of Dvaravati sculpture, curly hair, and an unalome on the forehead suggesting a combination of local and Indian art.

Also on show is a permanent exhibition of beads made of gold, baked coloured clay, Carnelian stones and accessories like earrings and pendants. The sophisticated technique used to produce those accessories underlines U Thong’s position as a commercial hub as well as the fine craftsmanship in that era.

The second building features information on ethnic groups in Suphan Buri and the marine trade routes around ancient Thailand and while not as breathtaking as the first, is certainly well worth a trip out from Bangkok.

IF YOU GO

< The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 9am to 4pm. Call (035) 551 040 or (035) 551 021

I made it to Bangkok National Museum to see National Treasure Exhibition. The Fine Arts Department brings many rare artifacts, hundreds of them probably, to the public. Some artifacts, dating back 1200 years, are very outstanding.

What made it even more special is… you can take photos of all objects.

I like a small collection of Dvaravati artifacts, displaying on the left gallery.

Rustic and beautiful, many of them are made of clay. I am from Suphanburi. A country boy, I mean. I’m pretty much connected to the earthen stuffs. Red and rough are the texture of Dvaravati artifacts. Many of them are unearthed from historical sites in Ratchaburi, Nakhon Pathom and Pachinburi provinces. I keep looking for piece of Dvaravati from Suphanburi – my hometown. No, not even one of them makes it to the exhibition. You have to drive to Uthong National Museum for super-rare Dvaravati artifacts.

Here, at the exhibition in Bangkok, I saw “Vishnu of Khao Phra Noe” (mid 7-th Century). I heard about this Vishnu statue while visiting the ancient town of Takola in Phang Nga province last year. Back then (some 1200 years ago), Thailand’s South was, probably, bustling with ancient traders. The Chinese crossed South China Sea, while the Indian braved the high sea of Indian Ocean to trade. Vishnu statue was founded at the mountain in Phang Nga many years ago, and it had been displayed at Thalang National Museum in Phuket since. Now, you can see it in Bangkok.

Another piece we often come across in papers or books (but probably never see the original piece) is Avalokitesvara from Suratthani. Yes, it’s here, too, at Bangkok National Museum.

Check it out. The museum closes on Mondays and Tuesdays.