Krakow offers a busy marketplace, hip bars, a historic Jewish quarter and the Schindler factory.Home to a castle, old squares, hip bars and cafes lining its alleys and cellars, Krakow has it all – and, seemingly, all the tourists. Roughly 14 million tourists visit annually; so many that they can overshadow the city’s layers of history and beauty.

Dodging the crowds – some zipping by in golf carts, others following guides holding paddles – is a common part of the Krakow experience as you make your way to must-see sites. These include the ancient cathedral in the old market square, the nearby Cloth Hall – still churning out commerce as it has since the Renaissance, but now of the tourist kind – and further out, the Wawel Castle overlooking the Vistula River, once home to Polish monarchs and a legendary dragon. Just beyond the castle is the city’s historic Jewish quarter. Kazimierz, with its Old Synagogue and Schindler’s Enamel Factory (whose owner, Oskar Schindler, shielded Jews from Nazi concentration camps and was the inspiration for the movie “Schindler’s List”), draws crowds and golf cart tours as well.

There are also more low-key alternatives in Krakow, including the Kosciuszko Mound, a small hill with scenic views built to commemorate a Polish statesman and military adviser to the American Revolution. Or take a walk through Nowa Huta, a leafy residential neighborhood constructed to be a prototype of communist life.

Location: Krakow is in southern Poland, about two hours by train from Warsaw.

– In Torun, you can climb a clock tower, make gingerbread and commune with Copernicus.

Further up the Vistula, Torun combines beauty and history but without the raucous crowds. Like Krakow, the city survived World War II intact – a rarity in Poland. Today, old city walls and castle-like gates enclose a town center lined with chic cafes, shops and townhouses from the Middle Ages (many of them lit at night).

At the heart of Torun on the old market square is the Town Hall, a Gothic home to a museum chronicling the city’s storied past. If you don’t mind climbing narrow wooden stairs and past large bells, the clock tower provides a great overview of Torun. On one side of the river, old brick buildings and a medieval street grid; on the other, the city ebbs into apartment blocks from the more recent communist era.

At the ground level, a short walk along pedestrian-only streets takes you to the ruins of a 13th-century Teutonic Knights castle on the edge of the Old Town. Circle back to the center through narrow lanes and past ancient granaries, ramparts and historic fortifications (one now famous as a leaning tower).

Once you look past the Lizard King nightclub and hip-hop graffiti, it is easy to imagine astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus walking the same streets. Copernicus, born in 1473, grew up here, and a Gothic home belonging to his merchant father (and possibly Copernicus’s birthplace) is a now a museum. It has exhibits on life in medieval Torun and on the astronomer’s revolutionary work placing a motionless sun at the center of the universe, with Earth and the other planets revolving around it.

Just behind the Copernicus home is another museum dedicated to a different Torun icon – pierniki, or gingerbread. Torun’s role as a trading center in the Middle Ages brought many influences, including spice from the Far East, adding a distinctive flavor to the gingerbread. Today, you can try your hand at making gingerbread at the museum and discover one of the many ways Torun is a place to be savored.

Location: Torun is in north-central Poland, about three hours by train from Warsaw.

Launched last week from Consumer Reports, an online petition that has amassed over 65,000 signatures asks American, Delta and United Airlines to stop separating families onboard and to nix fees for those who select seats together. It claims that there’s a security hazard in having children 13 and younger seated away from their parents and that it burdens passengers who have to fly next to unaccompanied children.

Charles Leocha, president of Travelers United, said he’s supportive of the Consumer Reports efforts to step in and help boost a cause he has championed for years. “I’m thrilled to get their support,” he said.

In 2016, Congress passed a law mandating that families be able to sit together at no extra cost. When deciding who would evaluate the new rules, Congress allotted for a period of discussion and for experts to study the effect of the rules to existing regulations. But then, according to Leocha, because of the Department of Transportation’s deference to the airline industry and the looming election, the momentum to adopt the new steps halted. Consumer Reports solicited complaints from families who had been separated while flying. When presented to the DOT, Leocha said, the agency claimed the number of complaints didn’t reach an actionable level.

The types of complaints included an incident on a United flight where a child was placed in an aisle seat next to a stranger, an American flight where attendants attempted to split up three children – one of them was a 2-year-old – and a Delta flight over Thanksgiving where an 8-month-old was assigned a middle seat away from the parents.

The DOT did issue guidance for families when making travel arrangements together. The guidance includes avoiding basic economy fares because they “are often lower fares and may not provide consumers with the ability to select a seat. These tickets may not meet the needs of families with young children,” according to the website.

Based on the current rules, Leocha said, low-fare options like basic economy seats exclude families, who are blocked from the cheapest options because they don’t allow reservations for seats. Instead, families reluctantly upgrade, paying more while jumping through unnecessary hurdles.

“The families are being stuck with a double-whammy,” he said. “First, on the basic economy, they can’t get any seat reservations. Then they’ve got to go up to the next level. And then when they go up to the next level, they can’t even sit together without having to pay even more money.”

Charles Hobart, a spokesman for United, said the airline uses an automatic system to make modifications to reservations, ensuring that children are placed next to parents. If timing becomes a factor, reservations can be modified at the gate, and when families check in, agents prioritize family seating.

United has gone as far as introducing a family-friendly lane and check-in system at Chicago O’Hare International Airport. It has an 80 percent success rate of keeping families together, according to Hobart, who added that the system is applied to all classes of seats, including basic economy.

“It’s in everyone’s interest that families are able to sit together on that aircraft – the customers themselves, the other passengers and our onboard crew as well,” Hobart said.

Rainer Jenss, president of the Family Travel Association, sees it as an issue of right and wrong.

“Airlines are charging premiums for the right for people to sit where they want,” he said. “And that includes sitting next to your travel companion. That is a convenience [fee]. A lot of people are arguing, myself included, that it should not be considered a convenience for a parent to sit next to their child.”

Jenss believes family seating should be standard across the industry and says that even a small number of complaints should be enough for airlines to do the right thing.

Jenss pointed to the rules of some international airlines – like Air Canada – that guarantee family seating. He suggested that U.S. airlines could do a better job of analyzing their data to see when families are most likely to travel and then expect that demand.

Major airlines could take steps, he added, like Southwest Airlines has, and let families board first, or block off specific areas for families, like the back of the plane, so other travelers wouldn’t have to worry about being seated next to unaccompanied children and parents could keep an eye on theirs.

Representatives for American and Delta said they prioritize family seating and have systems that ensure children are seated with an adult.

“Regardless of the type of ticket purchased, Delta works with customers on a case-by-case basis to ensure their travel needs are met,” Delta spokeswoman Lisa Hanna said in a statement to The Washington Post. “When customers have seating questions, we encourage them to reach out to us as soon as possible to allow for the opportunity to address their concerns.”

American Airlines said the company has spent a “considerable amount” of time developing a system that is designed to ensure that no child 15 and younger is seated alone, regardless of seating assignments. As an added step, American blocks out a certain number of seats on a given flight due to re-bookings and unexpected events, so even if arrangements aren’t made ahead of time, flight attendants can move people around to prioritize family seating.

“We are confident that this process works well for families who choose to fly with American Airlines,” read a statement to The Post.

The advocacy groups want the signatures and families’ complaints to appeal directly to the airlines, which can make the policies more than just words on paper. Ultimately, airlines say they want the same. But, as with most other factors of air travel these days, the number of variables means issues get settled on a case-by-case basis.

There is no question about those being some of the most theatrical spectacles you’ll ever see, but the parades leading up to Fat Tuesday are worth noting as well. Some local favorites are the Krewe of Chewbacchus, with a sci-fi theme, and the Krewe du Vieux, which is known for crude, humorous floats.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/video/c/embed/5d0eeef2-a0af-40c3-8bc3-e67a147e2531

We spent a few days with the Krewe of Freret, which was started in 2011 by a group of Loyola University graduates who wanted to revive the community of the Freret corridor. This year, its theme was “the music of New Orleans,” showcased with floats with elaborate sculptures of musicians like Louis Armstrong, Jimi Hendrix and Trombone Shorty.

According to the Krewe of Freret, there are some keys for how to best experience Mardi Gras like a local.

– – –

1. Know where your bathroom is

Depending on how dedicated you are, and how much water (or alcohol) you’re drinking, you’ll most likely need to use the restroom at some point. There are portable restrooms every few blocks, but many hotels and restaurants sell bathroom wristbands, which can be a worthy investment in the long run. Relieving yourself outside is illegal and will get you arrested.

– – –

2. Do not flash for beads

Mardi Gras is associated with an overload of debauchery in the French Quarter. This perception is not wrong, but there is more to it than bodies exposed for beads. In fact, don’t flash anyone at all. You will get arrested. According to the co-founder of the Krewe of Freret, Greg Rhoades, “most of Mardi Gras is incredibly family-friendly.”

– – –

3. Go with the flow

There are several parades happening all over the city, sometimes at the same time. Don’t think too hard about where you’re going and what time. Just live in the moment. Find happiness. It’s everywhere.

4. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate

Mardi Gras can be an all-day, all-night event, so drink a lot of water, especially if you’re consuming alcohol. Remember, it’s a marathon, not a sprint. You want to be able to make it to the end of the night, when the parties start happening.

– – –

5. Wear close-tied shoes

According to Lydia Blackmore of the Historic New Orleans Collection, “We judge the success of a Carnival season by the tonnage of trash produced.” The streets get very dirty. You’re also going to be on your feet all day and dancing through the night, so bring comfortable footwear and your insoles if you use them.

– – –

6. Throw on a wig or a costume

Many New Orleanians have a closet in their home dedicated to costume material. You don’t have to dress up as anything specific, but you’ll see people along the parade route sporting purple, green and gold attire.

– – –

7. Don’t stand next to kids

They’re cute. But the float-riders tend to throw beads at the kids, so they’re more likely to steal your beads. Keep your distance.

– – –

8. The best way to get a good spot is to make friends

Almost everyone you meet in the Big Easy is welcoming, and it’s hard not to make friends along the way. New Orleanian Zenia Smith says Mardi Gras is like a gumbo pot: “When you mix all of these people together, and you throw in some alcohol, you throw in some music, you throw in some good food – it’s just the best experience in the world.”

“My husband’s getting to the point where he says, ‘I just don’t like those long plane trips,'” says Diana Carlson, 73. That’s fine with her. “I say, ‘OK, we’ll go on the boat again.’ I’ll go on it as often as I can.”

By “the boat,” Carlson means the American Queen, a six-deck paddle-wheeler that plies the Mississippi River as the flagship of the American Queen Steamboat Company. For all the Southern California couple’s globe-trotting, they’ve sailed nearly 20 times with the cruise line that’s devoted to U.S. rivers.

The Carlsons are exactly the kind of customers the operators of American river cruise lines want to reach: They have the time and ability to travel, an interest in exploring U.S. sites and – importantly – they know that river cruising exists in the United States.

“I really believe the demand is there,” says Charles Robertson, president and CEO of American Cruise Lines, which operates a fleet of 12 small river and coastal ships that touch 30 states. “It’s a matter really of raising awareness about cruising as an option in this country. The demand for river cruises globally is enormous, and I think most people just aren’t aware yet that it’s actually an option here.”

Baby boomers are the group that operators are most keen on reaching. Robertson said his company has historically attracted cruisers 65 and older, but are attracting more in their 50s with amenities on new boats, like yoga rooms, gyms and unique gathering areas.

“People that cruise on our boats need two things: time and money,” says John Waggoner, chairman and CEO of American Queen Steamboat Company. “Because of that, boomers are ideal. Most of them have traveled all over the world. They want to stay closer to home, they want to learn more about the U.S.”

About 80% of the steamboat company’s passengers are baby boomers. Waggoner said depending on the boat in question, demographics on board skew toward 65 or 70, plus or minus 10 years. Cindy Anderson, an owner of the travel agency USA River Cruises, says the market has largely been travelers 65 and older.

European river cruising got a huge popularity boost in the past decade during the run of the TV period drama “Downton Abbey” – not because of any particular plot line, but because Viking River Cruises was a sponsor of the PBS Masterpiece series. U.S. audiences who couldn’t get enough of the Crawley family and their staff also got an eyeful of the company’s boats, cabins and destinations.

Although Americans have been traveling on U.S. rivers for centuries, the modern river-cruise industry in the country is still nascent and dominated by two companies. American Cruise Lines started sailing in 2000, while major operator American Queen Steamboat Company launched its first ship in 2012. Both have seen accelerated growth in recent years. Between them, they cover waterways including the Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee, Cumberland, Hudson, Columbia and Snake rivers as well as coastal areas in New England, the Southeast and Alaska.

Itineraries are often focused on history or nature, with a heavy dose of Americana. Cruise lines organize themed trips around the Civil War, Kentucky Derby, music, food or bourbon. Trips tend to include alcohol, and most shore excursions and can cost far more than a typical Caribbean cruise, between $6,000 to $10,000 a week per couple, depending on the line.

“I think a lot of people have not really explored the United States in that way,” says Colleen McDaniel, editor in chief of the news and review site Cruise Critic. “And it’s a really fabulous way to do it. The pace is a little bit slower, which is great for some people.”

The Cruise Lines international Association doesn’t break out statistics for river cruising in the United States, but the two biggest players say they are having to add ships to keep up with the demand.

American Cruise Lines can carry about 80,000 passengers this year, with that number expected to grow as more boats come online; two more new vessels will be added in 2021, bringing the total to 14. The line, which sails paddle-wheelers, coastal ships and modern riverboats that carry between 100 and 200 passengers, has more than doubled capacity since 2015.

American Queen Steamboat Company needs about 46,000 customers a year to fill the six vessels it owns under two brands – the namesake steamboat company and the recently acquired Victory Cruise Lines. The operator christens its latest addition American Countess, a 245-passenger steamboat built using the hull of a former casino boat, in April. Last year, the operator acquired Victory and its two coastal vessels, and is building a third.

“They want to get the ships on those rivers fast,” McDaniel says. “So I think that represents the demand that’s out there.”

And Viking – now an industry powerhouse with 78 ocean and river vessels – is making bigger moves in the United States. The company recently announced a new expedition ship that will sail to United States and Canadian destinations on the Great Lakes.

The Associated Press reported last week that Viking also plans to start Mississippi River cruises in 2022; the operator has been talking about plans to enter the market for several years. More details were not immediately available.

U.S. law says lines that sail only domestic itineraries must meet stringent requirements that keeps foreign operators out. Vessels must be built in the United States, staffed by American crew, and inspected by the Coast Guard, among other rules. It wasn’t clear how Viking planned to meet those requirements, but competitors say they hope the line’s arrival will drum up more attention for the still-niche sector.

Anderson, whose travel agency focuses on American rivers, said current global events are also driving interest in local exploration.

“A lot of people are not leaving the United States because of this new virus,” she says, referring to the novel coronavirus that has sickened more than 81,000 people and killed more than 2,770. “We’ve had a huge amount of cancellations for overseas, but we’ve also had double the amount of bookings for the U.S. now.”

For 77-year-old Al Elliott of Georgetown, Texas, the rivers have been a great place to spend his retirement (and his kids’ inheritance, he joked). He takes Amtrak to all his cruises and counts a wine cruise as one high point.

“I think my liver’s still trying to dry out from that one,” he says, though he’s hardly done with the theme. “They have a beer cruise I want to go on.”