Paws for thought

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PAWS FOR THOUGHT: Small dogs or cats get a warm welcome at the pet-friendly Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel

PAWS FOR THOUGHT: Small dogs or cats get a warm welcome at the pet-friendly Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel

PAWS FOR THOUGHT: Small dogs or cats get a warm welcome at the pet-friendly Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel

PAWS FOR THOUGHT: Small dogs or cats get a warm welcome at the pet-friendly Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel

Small dogs or cats get a warm welcome at the pet-friendly Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel

Why leave your beloved pet at home when you can take Fido or Fluffy (or both) with you? Jetsetters with pets now have Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel as a second home thanks to an all-too-rare policy that allows small dogs or cats to stay with their owners in the guestrooms.

Opened in 2013, Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit Hotel took the structure of an old hotel and revamped the simple property with chic and vintage flair. This small city hotel is all about simplicity, functionality and convenience. All 177 guestrooms are compact, but fully equipped for easy-going travellers who want nothing more than a plush bed and lots of pillows, big screen TV with local and satellite channels and a spacious and sparkling clean bathroom. There are also five suites that offer more space and extra amenities. There’s free wireless Internet both in the rooms and throughout the public areas and the signal is good, a rarity in hotels where the slow connection forces many to pay extra for a higher speed.

Centrally located, Double Tree by Hilton Sukhumvit is a great starting point wherever you want to go in the city with Phrom Phong BTS station an easy stroll. And there are plenty of eateries, spas and nightspots in the area to suit every pocket as well as in the two nearby shopping malls.

But the biggest attraction for many is that the hotel is pet friendly. If you travel with a cat or a dog weighing less than five kilograms, you can have him stay with you at Bt1,500 extra charge per pet per stay. And up to two pets are allowed in one guestroom. You and your pet can stay in any room type you like, but the hotel tends to put you in a room at the end of the hall or in the corner unless you specify otherwise. We checked in with Panda, our two-year old cat who had never spent a night away from home. Large and fluffy but under the five kg limit, we quite expected him to be weighed at the front desk. That didn’t happen and we were not asked for vaccination records either.

You would think a pet-friendly hotel would have a pet toilet or perhaps a designated corner in the bathroom for the animal to use, but you still need to bring your own litter box and cat grit, although the room did have a small food bowl. We unpacked and let the cat out of his hamper to explore, hoping he wouldn’t start scratching the fabric armchair or the leather ergonomic chair – guests pay for any damage. Fortunately he seemed content to enjoy the view of bustling Sukhumvit at dusk through the floor-to-ceiling glass window.

The next morning we came down to breakfast at Dee Lite, one of the two F&B outlets of the hotel, leaving Panda in the room. No matter how well-behaved your pets are, they need to be in a carrier when going through the public areas and they are strictly not allowed in restaurants.

You also need to be careful when the maid comes in to make up the room. Make sure you are present to tend to your furry friend. The maid will not clean your pet’s toilet, though. That duty is still yours, even on holiday! And be careful when opening the door – some pets will see that as an opportunity to escape and could hurt themselves or other guests.

Once you check out, that room will be sealed for two days before accepting the next guest. Housekeeping will “deep clean” it thoroughly and call in a pest control service to spray the room. So if you’re checking in to a room, which has previously had a canine or feline guest, rest assured: it will be completely cleaned and safe to stay in.

AT A GLANCE

High point: Convenient location with BTS, malls, shops and restaurants within walking distance. The rooms are simple and clean. The hotel is pet-friendly.

Low point: Not much choice for entertainment or pampering within the hotel.

Pay for it: Visit the hotel’s website for the best deal.

Find it: 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26 Khlong Ton, Bangkok, 10110, Thailand

Call it: (02) 649 6666

Browse it: http://doubletree3.hilton.com/en/hotels/thailand/doubletree-by-hilton-hotel-sukhumvit-bangkok-BKKSSDI/index.html

 

Feeding the spirit, calming the mind

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

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LOCAL COLOUR

A boat loaded of food is towed into the water where it begins its slow journey to the spiritual world. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

The Mon tow the boat from the temple to the river in Sangkhla Buri. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

Mon women light candles for the departed souls as they celebrate the Boat of Offerings Festival. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

A plate bearing sweets for the dead brings together banana, sugar stick, popcorn and rice. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

A Mon woman carries a tray of offering on her head during the Boat of Offerings Festival. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

Monks pray for the departed during the Boat of Offerings Festival in Kanchanaburi. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

The Mon Floating Boat Festival takes place around the Phutthakhaya Chedi at Wat Wang Wiwekaram in Sangkhla Buri. Photos/Thanisorn Luckchai

Sangkhla Buri’s Mon community pays respect to its ancestors with a boat laden with food

The Mon communities in Sangkhla Buri, a small town on Thailand’s western border with Myanmar, will once again be remembering their ancestors next week with a spiritual festival that sees the whole town come alive. A fascinating event that for the past few years has drawn thousands to the area, the Mon Floating Boat Festival, as it is known, reunites the departed with the living.

This year’s festival is being held from September 15 to 17 and is expected to again draw both Mon-speaking people from all over Thailand for family reunions as well as curious tourists.

“The ritual is known to the Mon as ‘Pohamord’, which roughly translates as the Boat of Offerings,” says Mon resident Arunya Chareonhongsa.

The festival not only commemorates departed Mon pilgrims but also banishes evil and brings luck to those still living. It’s a ritual that dates back to the Mon Hanthawaddy Kingdom (1369-1539) and marks the journey of a high-ranking monk and several Buddhist pilgrims across the Bay of Bengal to fetch a set of Buddhist scriptures in Sri Lanka. On their return trip, one boat capsized in rough seas and the pilgrims inside it drowned. On hearing the news, the king sent another boat, this time unmanned and made of bamboo, which was laden with food.

“The boat of food means to appease the hungry souls of the priests,” Arunya explains. “Once the departed priests are happy with the offering, they might send us the Buddha’s teachings and scriptures.”

Like many Asian cultures, the Mon believe their ancestors are lurking somewhere beyond this world, and they can roam around and even return to their homes at this time of year. Chinese and Khmer communities hold true to the same belief and kill chickens and set up the altars for the departed. What makes the Mon different is that they send a boatload of food into the open water.

On the first day (September 15) locals and visitors surround the Phutthakhaya Chedi at Wat Wang Wiwekaram to watch as the men shape long bamboo poles into a boat, a process that usually takes a full day.

While the men are building the bamboo boat, the women busy themselves cooking and preparing the offerings, which mostly consist of popcorn, ripe bananas and boiled rice in banana leaves, candles, honey, water and sticks of sugarcane.

When the boat is ready and decorated with colourful paper flags, it is moved to the front of the huge pagoda where it serves as the centrepiece for the celebrations that follow on the next two nights.

The highlight is the series of cultural shows that showcase the distinctive ways of the Mon. Both old and young dress in beautiful traditional attire – red sarongs and white shirts – and move towards the boat holding trays. Young men, with mouthfuls of chewy betel nut and winning smiles, try to lure the girls who are carrying baskets of food on their heads.

“In the olden days, we also made a lantern and would load it with yellow string and the necessities for entering the monkhood before releasing it into the sky,” Arunya explains.

“Whoever found the monk’s set would be ordained. If a woman found it, she would make a great contribution to the Buddhist temple.”

The ceremony culminates in the boat being towed to the riverbank and pushed out to the water where it begins its slow journey to the spiritual world.

IF YOU GO

< Sangkhla Buri is a home to one of Thailand’s largest Mon communities as well as to Karenni and Bangladeshi populations that add to its ethnic diversity.

 

Fly for free with AirAsia

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AROUND THAILAND

Fly for free with AirAsia

Fly for free with AirAsia

AirAsia is giving away free seats from now until Sunday to several destinations across its extensive network.

Fly for free with AirAsia

AirAsia is giving away free seats from now until Sunday to several destinations across its extensive network. Travellers can book seats at Bt0 through the AirAsia mobile phone application to Krabi, Hat Yai, Udon Thani, Buriram, Khon Kaen, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Sakon Nakhon, Narathiwat, Roi Et, Nan, Phitsanulok, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Ubon Ratchathani, Surat Thani and Trang. Tickets at attractively low prices are also being offered to Hong Kong, Macao, Singapore, Bali, Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Yangon, Ho Chi Minh City, Mandalay, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Shantou, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Chongqing, Wuhan and Hangzhou. This promotion is valid for travel February 6 and October 28.

Offerings for the departed

Si Sa Ket province in Thailand northeast is gearing up for the Saen Donta Festival on September 27 and 28. Best described as “dinner with the departed”, Saen Donta has been practised by the province’s Khmer-speaking communities since time immemorial and honours ancestors and hungry ghosts. The local people dressed in their unique tribal |costumes carry baskets full of roasted chicken, barbecued fish, fried meats, mainly pork, vegetables, cigarettes and jars of rice wine to the public park in front of the town hall where the offerings are made.

New Airbus delivery for THAI

Thailand’s national flag carrier Thai Airways International recently took delivery of 12 Airbus A350 XWB craft to boost its increasingly modern fleet. The planes are configured in a premium two-class layout with a total of 321 seats, 32 of which are in Royal Silk Class and convertible to fully lie-flat beds, and 289 in the main cabin. After an initial period flying on regional services between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, the aircraft will be deployed on long-haul flights, starting with the Bangkok-Melbourne route. The A350 XWB features the latest in aerodynamic design, carbon fibre fuselage and wings, plus new fuel-efficient Rolls-Royce engines.

Island in the sun

Santiburi Beach Resort & Spa on Samui Island introduces its new “Beach Butler” service to ensure guests make the most of tropical paradise. The staff are on hand to make sure there is always a sun lounger available for guests along the resort’s 300-metre beach frontage and they also provide |two clean beach towels per person, plus complimentary iced bottled mineral water and daily servings of tropical fruit and ice cream, all to be enjoyed by the water’s edge. Santiburi beach butlers are also trained to keep a discreet eye out for how much sun guests have been exposed to and offer informed recommendations on sun protection. They can also be called upon to take orders for food and drink, which can be served on the beach.

Getting high in the low season

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GETAWAYS

The Nai Harn Phuket is offering“Stay 3 Pay 2 promotion.”

The Nai Harn Phuket is offering“Stay 3 Pay 2 promotion.”

Hotels in Bangkok and the provinces wind up the high season with great-value stays

Luxury U Hotels & Resorts chain is welcoming the last two months of |the so-called green season with a “Ur Autumn” deal that gives guests a full 25-per-cent discount on all room types as well as a US$25 restaurant or spa credit per room per stay. Available at all properties in the chain, the “Ur Autumn” packages can be booked from now until September 30 for stays before October 31. A minimum of two nights is required. Book through http://www.UHotelsResorts.com or email reserve@uhotelsresorts.com.

From now until October 31, The Nai Harn, a beachside resort on the southern tip of Phuket, is offering a third night free with its “Stay 3 Pay 2 promotion”. The package starts at Bt6,400 per room per night in a Deluxe Ocean View Room. Guests can enjoy signature cocktails created by Salim Khoury, former head barman at The Savoy in London, delicious Thai dishes at Cosmo Ocean Bistro with chef Ann and end the day with hand-made chocolates from Fiona Sciolti. Another benefits include the revamped menu at The Spa and a choice of Classical Thai Cooking Class (Bt3,800 per person) and an Organic Chocolate & Pastry Class (Bt2,800 per person). |Visit http://www.TheNaiHarn.com or email reservations@TheNaiHarn.com.

Discover the beauty of Krabi with Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort’s new “Super Advance Saver” package under which rates start at Bt3,200 per room per night. Occupying a spectacular beachfront location overlooking the Andaman Sea, the resort offers timeless French elegance, luxurious rooms and suites, unparalleled facilities, and engaging activities for the whole family plus renowned Thai hospitality. |Visit http://www.Sofitel.com/1684 or call (075) 627 800. |Email H6184-RE@sofitel.com.

Upgrade your stay with the “Urban Retreat” package at Dream Bangkok, a boutique hotel in the heart of Sukhumvit. The package is priced at Bt3,999 per night and features one night in a Premier Suite, daily international breakfast buffet at Flava Restaurant, one spa treatment, in-room Wi-Fi and wired internet access and late check out until 4pm. The deal is good until October 31. Email reservations@dreambkk.com to enjoy this special package.

Movenpick Siam Hotel Pattaya is offering an exclusive promotion for corporate movers-and-shakers who like business and pleasure to work together. Confirm a booking 30 days before check-in and enjoy the benefits of the “Early Bird Business Package” from now until December 21. The offer includes complimentary Wi-Fi in all guest rooms, a choice of Thai or international lunch, full day usage of the meeting rooms and a choice of an early morning coffee break, themed coffee break or pre-dinner cocktails. Weekday room rates for the package start from Bt4,000. |Visit http://www.Movenpick.com/pattaya. Call (033) 078 888 or |email hotel.pattaya@movenpick.com.

Let there be light

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/travel/Let-there-be-light-30294168.html

FESTIVAL DIARY

The ancient port town of Hoi An, Central Vietnam, will keep the lights low on September 14 to show off the brightest moon of the year. The festive event coincides with the Mid-Autumn Festival. Photo/hoianfreetour.com

The ancient port town of Hoi An, Central Vietnam, will keep the lights low on September 14 to show off the brightest moon of the year. The festive event coincides with the Mid-Autumn Festival. Photo/hoianfreetour.com

F1 revs up in singapore as lanterns are lit in Hoi An

HOI AN FULL MOON LANTERN FESTIVAL

September, Hoi An, September 14

The ancient town of Hoi An in Central Vietnam will keep electricity use down to the minimum and let the full moon light up the night for its lantern festival. The folks in Hoi An welcome every full moon with a lantern festival but the upcoming lunar event coincides with Mid-Autumn Festival when, it’s said, the moon is at its brightest and most beautiful. The action is centred in the area between the Japanese Covered Bridge and the Cau An Hoi Bridge and spills onto the surrounding streets and river banks. You can’t miss the sea of colourful lanterns if you stay close to the river.

SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX

September 16 to 18, Singapore

Singapore held the first night-time Formula One Grand Prix in September 2008, with 5km of track snaking around Marina Bay under specially designed lights. The thrilling race – which has been dominated by Sebastian Vettel, Lewis Hamilton and Fernando Alonso – is held every September and includes a fantastic line-up of events at various locations across Singapore. The terrific atmosphere and enthusiasm of the locals make it one of the best times to visit.

ULTRA BEACH BALI 2016

September 15 to 16, Bali, Indonesia

Ultra Beach, the Bali leg of the world-renowned electronic Ultra Music Festival, is slated to rock the Petitenget beachfront of Potato Head Beach Club Bali this September. International DJs including Martin Garrix, Anna and Afrojack, will take turns to entertain the festival goers. The two-day festival in Bali this follows on from Japan, and will continue with events in Ibiza, Chile and Brazil.

HYOSEOK CULTURAL FESTIVAL

September 2 to 11, Pyeongchang-gun, South Korea

The Hyoseok Cultural Festival is held to commemorate modern Korean writer Lee Hyo-seok and his popular novel “When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom”, which demonstrates the connection between human life and beauty of nature through the dazzling scenery of the author’s hometown. The festival highlights different locations depicted in the novel as well as the area’s folklore and is held at the time when the buckwheat flowers blanket the entire Bongpyeong area. Don’t miss the wide range of foods made from buckwheat and other exciting activities.

AKAN MARIMO MATSURI

October 9 to 10, Hokkaido, Japan

Akan Marimo Matsuri Festival on the shores of Lake Akan brings thousands of visitors to Kushiro, a small town in Hokkaido. Marimo (unique spherical green algae) is the nation’s special natural heritage and a symbol of this festival. Concerned about the destruction of nature, the Ainu people started the festival in 1950. The event features traditional dances and religious rites handed down by the Ainu and sees the Ekashi, as the respected elders are known, go out on Lake Akan in a traditional dugout canoe and gently place the marimo one by one into the lake. At night, visitors can enjoy the Pine Torch Procession and the fireworks display.

High in the hills

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Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Teething problems aside, the new Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa in Loei is a good place to while away a few days

Inspired by Taoism philosophy, Phurua Sanctuary Resort and Spa focuses on the idea of living in harmony with the natural flow to restore and rejuvenate life energy.

Located one hour away from Loei Airport, the resort offers an endless panorama of mountains, rice fields and a lush garden planted with herbs and organic produce.

“Loei province has rich soil. I might be biased that I think the produce grown here tastes better than elsewhere. All the food we serve at the resort comes right from our farms. We have our own organic vegetables, rice paddies and orchards from which we supply Phu Luang Restaurant, our sole eatery. We are also planting coffee and macadamia nuts for future use,” says the resort’s owner, Pornsin Tamsirichai.

In operation for less than a year, the hotel and its staff are new to the hospitality industry but meet any hiccups guests may experience with a friendly smile and a helping hand.

The lobby is small and not equipped to deal with mass check ins, as was the case for our group of 30 journalists. The staff got round the problem by setting up a special check-in table at the meeting room next to the main building and we are happy enough to take photos of the lush roses or relax around the swimming pool while waiting our turns.

Getting the key card for room number 1305, I realise I will have to wait a while for the only elevator to whisk me up to the third floor.

“There’s no need to rush once you are here. Take your time and get connected with nature,” Pornsin had told us earlier and so I take his advice and retreat to the garden to take more photos of the roses until the elevator is clear.

My room is spacious and clean with two queen-sized beds, a long writing table, flat screen TV and a balcony. Decorated in contemporary style in earth tones, it’s peaceful and cosy.

Having caught an early flight and with a busy day ahead, I take a quick shower to freshen up before the resort’s next activity. The bathroom has a bathtub on the left and a separate shower stall on the right. As I adjust the water temperature, the shower handle for the hot water falls off. Thanks to my dad, who taught me how to handle problematic household appliances from an early age, I shrug my shoulders, put the handle back on and continue my shower like nothing has happened.

Back in the lobby, the hotel staff offers to lead us to the organic farm to hand pick our dinner. Armed with baskets, we collect the vegetables under a hot sun though no one seems particularly bothered by the heat.

“Wow! I love string beans, and look at those papayas. We just need some chilli peppers and then we could have som tam,” says my friend.

It isn’t long before our baskets are brimming with red chilli peppers, string beans, lettuce, coriander and mushrooms. Assured that the baskets will be delivered to the hotel’s kitchen, we follow the staff to the rice paddies. Along the walkway, a row of Jamaican Cherry trees provide refuge from the sun. They also provide a snack, and we pick and munch the small red fruits until we reach the rice paddies.

A small airy shelter in the middle of the rice fields is like an oasis in the desert. We rest and let the wind dry the sweat. Some of us choose to get our hands dirty by transplanting rice seedlings while the rest remain in the shelter sipping cool water.

Later that day we sit down for dinner at Phu Luang restaurant where chef Bee turns our harvest into authentic north-eastern dishes like papaya salad, steamed banana blossom and stir-fried catfish with spicy herbs.

Even the most entertaining feast has to end. I walk back to my room planning to jump into bed. I fall asleep thinking of the shower handle and praying it won’t fall on me again.

AT A GLANCE

High point: Close to other natural attractions like Phu Ruea National Park and Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary. Helpful and friendly staff.

Low point: Some facilities need to be fixed.

Pay for it: Visit the hotel’s website for the best deals.

Find it: 216 Moo8 Tambon Nong Bua, Amphur Phu Ruea, Loei 42160 Thailand

Call it: (042) 810 890-2, |(042) 810 885

Browse it: http://www.PhuruaSanctuary.com or Facebook.com/phuruasanctuary.

 

Sabres and swords

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AROUND THAILAND

Phuket will again fly the yellow flags of the annual Phuket Vegetarian Festival from October 1-9.

Phuket will again fly the yellow flags of the annual Phuket Vegetarian Festival from October 1-9.

Take a trip to Phuket and make peace with your fellow creatures. The Southern province will again fly the yellow flags of the annual Phuket Vegetarian Festival from October 1-9.

Sabres and swords

Take a trip to Phuket and make peace with your fellow creatures. The Southern province will again fly the yellow flags of the annual Phuket Vegetarian Festival from October 1-9. One legend has it that the annual festival was inaugurated two centuries ago when a travelling Chinese Opera troupe successfully warded off a mysterious plague through a period of ritual vegetarianism. Whatever its beginnings, visitors these days can expect eye-popping displays of face and body piercing – not for the squeamish! Visit http://www.PhuketVegetarian.com.

Down by the river

The Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel and Towers brings its popular “Wine and Cheese” event back to the banks of the Chao Phraya on Friday, September 16. A great way to end the week, the tasting costs Bt400 for free-flow premium wine. For more flavour and to complement the wine, a selection of cheese and pasta is available for Bt599 extra. The riverside hotel is within a short boat ride from Taksin BTS Station with a shuttle service running every 30 minutes. Call (02) 266 9214 or e-mail: events.rosh@sheraton.com. Visit Facebook.com/royalorchidsheratonhotel.

From ocean to plate

Voila! at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, brings fresh seafood into the city every Friday and Saturday night. The restaurant is transformed into a vibrant night market bursting with the fresh flavours of the ocean. The fabulous dinner buffet includes Western rock lobster, freshly shucked Fine de Claire Marennes d’Oleron and Mediterranean Bouzigues oysters. As well as Alaskan king crab, Baridi snow crab, fresh razor shells. Brown crabs, succulent Tasmanian mussels, Hokkaido scallops and crayfish plus river and tiger prawns. They’re served with a range of classic and spicy sauces. The buffet is priced at Bt1,950 per person for food only. Children (6-12 years) enjoy 50-per-cent off, while the Accor Plus members receive up to 50 per cent discount.

A taste of Thailand

Chinese women from Kunming, Southern China, are visiting Thailand until tomorrow to experience Thai food prepared by the country’s best lady chefs. Organised by the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the trip takes the Chinese ladies to participate in a cooking class in the kitchens of Bangkok’s famous Blue Elephant Restaurant, where they’ll learn how to prepare Tom Yum Goong, as well as to taste popular dishes on the Bangkok-Rayong route.

Sulamani Temple: History repeats itself

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/travel/Sulamani-Temple-History-repeats-itself-30293996.html

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation August 28, 2016 7:47 pm

MYANMAR

A 6.8-magnitude earthquake in Central Myanmar has damaged many stupas and temples in the plain of Bagan

Built in 1181 by King Narapatisithu of Bagan, Sulamani means a small ruby.

The temple pretty much survived the 1975 earthquake, except for the gilded top that crashed to the ground. The restoration was completed later with new spire and gilded umbrella.

Unfortunately, the earthquake on August 24 repeated Sulamani Temple’s story, crumbling and leaving the spire on the dusty ground again.

Sulamani Temple is one of the most-visited historical sites in old Bagan. It is home to magnificent frescoes, some of them perhaps influenced by Siamese art.

//

At the gallery in the Northern corridor there is a beautiful piece of fresco telling a praying scene. Villagers – both men and women – are seated together and leaning into the Lord Buddha. Some Myanmar academic and tour guide suggest that this painting might get influenced by Siamese art.

Coincidentally enough, “The Nation” published a piece on Sulamani “Within these walls” on the day of the earthquake. To read on, please visit www.nationmultimedia.com/t…/Within-these-walls-30293653.html

Night food markets in Ho Chi Minh City: What’s cooking?

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http://www.nationmultimedia.com/travel/Night-food-markets-in-Ho-Chi-Minh-City-Whats-cooki-30293956.html

FOOD & TRAVEL

A dining corner for “banh khot” traditional pancakes at Ben Thanh street food market in HCM City. Tags: street food market, HCM City

 

Fish is grilled per customer request to ensure the dish is served hot. Tags: street food market, HCM City

 

A dining corner for “banh khot” traditional pancakes at Ben Thanh street food market in HCM City.

“Hello sir, hello miss! Want some noodles?” was the cry that I repeatedly heard at the Ben Thanh street food market in downtown HCM City last week.

Opened last year, the market’s many food kiosks and two indoor eating areas have achieved quite a reputation within a short time.

While Asian food is the specialty, European foods are also on offer at the market, which has a busy but orderly air. Unlike other street markets, customers receive a number and wait in turn for their dish.

Though it may sound suspiciously like a shopping-centre food court, it was anything but sterile. Lively, noisy and aromatic were terms that immediately came to mind when I entered the area.

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I arrived at the peak hour of 8pm, and chose steamed sticky rice with grilled pork and vegetables.

It was the good smelling of the pork cooking nearby that whetted my appetite, and I couldn’t wait to take my first bite. The verdict? Very tasty and reasonably priced at 76,000 dong (US$3).

Despite serving dishes from other countries, including Singaporean frog porridge and Korean tokbokki, I could see that most tourists were enjoying Vietnamese traditional dishes such as pho (noodle soup), banh xeo (crepe) and spring rolls, among others.

While the market is popular with foreign tourists, locals like the place too. They come to enjoy the food and atmosphere, and to laugh and chat amid the sound of different languages mixed with music.

It’s a place where you want to linger.

As night falls, night markets in all of the city’s 24 districts become as bustling as Ben Thanh, if not busier.

Wandering into Market 200 in District 4’s Xom Chieu Ward, for example, I was overwhelmed by the hundreds of dishes offered there.

Unlike the international offerings at the Ben Thanh, these sellers only cook typical Vietnamese snacks and main dishes, including soup, noodles, porridge, sticky rice, fried banana, egg cakes, puddings and fresh spring rolls.

Though customers, both local and foreign, come here to soak up the evening atmosphere and just hang out and relax, the dishes at this market are especially good.

Fried banana, a bowl of crab and salty-egg soup were cheaper here than at Ben Thanh. Hot soya, caramel cake and many kinds of sweet gruel were also tasty.

In addition, if you want to have something more traditional and hot, there is an area famous for sui cao (wonton) on Ha Ton Quyen Street in District 5. Food stands and shops that may be of interest are Ngoc Y and 162 eateries.

Popularity

During my visit to Ben Thanh Market, I met Sylvia and Ewa of the Netherlands, who were on a two-week vacation. They told me that the food was delicious and described the market’s atmosphere as “fantastic”.

Besides foreigners, HCM City residents also frequent the markets, but unlike residents in other cities, many locals like to eat out in the evenings.

“Staying at home alone after work is boring. I often call my best friend to eat out. A night food market is an ideal option,” Phuong Trinh, 24, a sales executive in the City, told me at the Market 200.

As I was eating at a soup eatery one night, I realised why night markets have remained popular over the years.

A middle-aged man, Quang Hai, of District 3, who was sitting next to me, said: “I used to eat this dish a long time ago. Now I really miss the taste, so I come to District 5 to eat even though it’s far from my house.”

Within these walls

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/travel/Within-these-walls-30293653.html

MYANMAR

A fresco in the southern corridor of Sulamani Temple, Bagan, depicts the Lord Buddha and his apprentice monks. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

A fresco in the southern corridor of Sulamani Temple, Bagan, depicts the Lord Buddha and his apprentice monks. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

A young Buddhist apprentice offers lotus flowers to the Lord Buddha in a mural at Bagan’s Sulamani Temple. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

The corridors inside the temple, which are dimly lit by the daylight, lead visitors to walls of murals illustrating the life of the Lord Buddha. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

A fresco portrays a Buddhist praying scene. The old-fashioned hairstyles and slimmer bodies suggest that those praying are of Siamese origin. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

Bhikkhuni – female Buddhist monks – are portrayed on the wall of Sulamani Temple. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

Portrait of the king of Bagan’s ministers in the southern corridor of Sulamani Temple. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee

Sulamani Temple in Bagan is home to magnificent frescoes, some of them perhaps influenced by Siamese art

Known as the valley of 2,000 pagodas, the ancient city of Bagan is the highlight of any visit to Myanmar.

Located on the vast plains of Upper Myanmar on the bend of the Ayeyarawaddy, its beauty stems not just from its gilded pagodas and stone temples but its murals. And the frescos at one temple alone – the Sulamani – are worth a second and even third trip to Bagan.

“Sulamani means a small ruby,” says Naung Naung, my tour guide in Bagan, as we walk through the point-arched gateway. “The temple itself was built around 1181 by King Narapatisithu of Bagan.”

With its lush grounds, Sulamani Temple is one of the most-visited historical sites in old Bagan. Vendors line the approach to the temple, which combines the massive forms of the early Bagan period with the vertical lines of the middle period.

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“The brickwork throughout the Sulamani is regarded as some of the best stonemasonry in Bagan,” says the guide. “The building pretty much survived the 1975 earthquake, except for the gilded top that crashed to the ground.”

This is my second trip to Sulamani Temple.

Last year, I travelled in a small horse-drawn carriage across the dusty Bagan valley to the “small ruby” of Narapatisithu. Back then, I was stunned by the massive form and the height of Sulamani. I sat down under the tree and gazed at the majestic stupa without bothering to move inside.

On my second trip, I am tempted into the interior to see what one local intellectual describes as a “Siamese link” with the monastery. Tin Tin Aye – a member of the conservation group Bagan Heritage Trust – earlier told me about the Siamese influences on at least one of the frescoes and he showed me a photo of the mural painting, which shows the Lord Buddha seating under the hood of Naga, the serpent. The mural, Tin Tin Aye is convinced, is more Siamese than Burmese and now that I’m here, I cannot wait to see the fresco in question.

“There’s much to see inside. Be patient, we will get to the piece that interests you the most,” says Naung Naung with a smile.

The Sulamani is erected on a rectangular base with Buddha images facing the four directions from the ground floor.

The interior passage and hallways are barely illuminated by the light coming in through the windows and porches. The base is covered with frescoes dating back to the 12th Century.

From the main entrance on the east, we stroll anticlockwise.

Reclining and seated Buddhas, finely decorated elephants, characters holding lotus flowers, and other scenes depicting the Lord Buddha cover the walls.

The corridors are narrow and there’s not much light – enough to admire the beauty and harmony of the wall paintings but inadequate to take good photos. Still, I can’t help but be mesmerised by these images of such unexpected beauty.

“The frescoes here were painted in the 12th and 18th centuries,” says Naung Naung. “The earlier works are damaged and faded due to the sunlight.

When it comes to damage, he adds, unwise restoration by man has been much worse than that done by nature. The early frescoes were restored in the 18th Century. The artists repainted the faded mural in more vivid colours. Some original postures were repainted to make them, perhaps, politically correct. The painting of the monks around the Lord Buddha, for example, were reproduced from sitting upright to leaning towards Lord Buddha.

“The artists in the 18th century rubbed out the original painting by covering it with white plaster before recreating new figures,” says Naung Naung. “Ironically, if you look closer you will be able to retrace and figure out the original painting, which is way more beautiful.”

At the gallery in the Northern corridor we finally find what we’re looking for.

The Myanmar guide positions his flashlight on the wall to reveal a scene typical of praying. Villagers – both men and women – are seated together and leaning into the Lord Buddha. To be honest, the bare-chested men look good with their old-fashioned hairstyles. The women, with beautiful curvy lines and many small details, are way slimmer than the native girls of Bagan. And the portrait of Lord Buddha itself is very different from the Buddhas we saw earlier in the Eastern corridor. This mural painting emphasises the flame on top of Buddha’s head, which is very common in the Buddha images found in Thailand. In Bagan tradition, the Buddha usually wears a topknot.

“We believe they’re Siamese. They’re Thai,” says the Myanmar guide.

I want to believe it too. With its sharp lines and paint strokes, the fresco reminds me of the mural paintings in Thailand’s temples. It will have to remain a supposition though. We don’t have academic support.

Nuang Naung and the Trust’s Tin Tin Aye believe that the Burmese might have been influenced by Siamese art. They point to the Burmese sackings of the Ayutthaya Kingdom in 1569 and 1767, when artists were most likely among the Siamese taken hostage in what is today’s Myanmar. Ayutthaya art, they say, might well have played a part in the restoration of Sulamani Temple in the 18th Century.

Next to the “praying scene” is a sizeable portrait of the Buddha seated under the hood of the mystical serpent known as the Naga. The guide suggests that this portrait was also influenced by Siamese art.

But whether they are or not, I am fascinated by these images of such unexpected beauty. The interior face of the wall was once lined with 100 monastic cells, a feature unique among Bagan’s ancient monasteries.

In the Western corridor we find a painting of finely decorated elephants. Then another painting, of men, their heads covered with white scarves, arms raised as if to ask for attention.

“Who are these people?” I ask, gesturing to the men.

“They’re ministers giving advice to the king in the royal court,” the guide replies.

Politicians – I should have guessed. They always demand attention.

IF YOU GO

< Bangkok Airways operates flights between Bangkok and Mandalay, the gateway to Bagan. Taking a cruise from Mandalay to Bagan is recommended – especially in the winter when the banks of the Ayeyarawaddy River are dramatically beautiful.