Queen’s Cup Hua Hin Triathlon will be held this weekend at Black Mountain Water Park in Prachuap Khiri Khan province.
The competition is divided into different endurance tests: a sprint triathlon made up of a 750-metre swim, 20km of cycling and 5km of running; a duathlon featuring a 2.5km run and 20km of cycling …
On your marks
As part of the celebrations marking Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s 84th Birthday, the annual Queen’s Cup Hua Hin Triathlon will be held this weekend at Black Mountain Water Park in Prachuap Khiri Khan province. The competition is divided into different endurance tests: a sprint triathlon made up of a 750-metre swim, 20km of cycling and 5km of running; a duathlon featuring a 2.5km run and 20km of cycling; a 5km road race and an Olympic-distance triathlon which involves 1.5km of swimming, 40km of cycling and 10km running. Call Tourism Authority of Thailand Prachuap Khiri Khan Office at (032) 513 885 or email: tatprachuap@tat.or.th. Visit http://www.huahintriathlon.com.
Wonders of the wheels
Mark the last weekend in August on your calendar and take time out from the city to join the Bhumibol Dam International Mountain Bike Championships in Tak province on August 27 and 28. Organised by the Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand, the Tourism Authority of Thailand and the Sports Authority of Thailand, the competition has something for everyone, from a 12-kilometre bike ride to a 60-kilometre international race. Expect live music, cultural performances, a classic bicycle show and loads of fun. Find out more from the local tourism organisation at (055) 549 509.
Perfect percussion
Ang Thong province comes alive with the sound of beating drums from August 18 to 21 as Ang Thong International Drum festival comes to town. The event features a colourful parade, fanfares and a stage performance at the drum-making village of Ekaratch in Pa Mok district. Ang Thong is a two-hour drive north of Bangkok. Call The Traditional Drum-Making Village (Ban Bang Phae) at (035) 662 201, the Tourism Authority of Thailand Suphan Buri Office at (035) 535 789 or TAT’s Call Centre at 1672.
In the spirit of giving
The Dragon Descendent Museum and the City Pillar Shrine in Suphan Buri will be packed with locals and visitors for the upcoming Tingkrajad Festival, a century-old ceremony held to give offerings both to the deceased and to the less unfortunate. From August 20 to 24, the Chinese Association in Suphan Buri will give offerings to the poor. Visitors will be entertained by lantern processions, parades, Chinese opera, films and food, Call the Tourism Authority of Thailand Suphan Buri Office at (035) 535 380 or e-mail: tatsuphan@tat.or.th. Visit http://www.Suphan.biz/tingkrajad.htm.
PHOOWADON DUANGMEE
THE NATION August 10, 2016 1:00 am
Mandarin Oriental Singapore offers a great view of the Singapore circuit’s turns 16 and 17. dpa
Enjoy private viewing of the Singapore Grand Prix or shop till you drop in Bangkok
Lewis Hamilton, Nico Rosberg, Daniel Riccardo, Max Verstappen and Sebastian Vettel will be hoping to lead the field as the Singapore Grand Prix returns to the city state for a weekend of speed, song and celebration from September 16 to 18. Mandarin Oriental Singapore marks the occasion with a “Race Through the Night” package. Priced at SGD4,650 (Bt162,500) per night for double occupancy, the package covers access to the Oriental Club Lounge, dinner at Dolce Vita, a 60-minute Pitstop Dinner buffet at Melt Café, fresh oysters and champagne at Axis Bar and Lounge and a spa treatment. A minimum of three nights’ stay is required. Located in Marina Bay and right in front of turns 16 and 17 of the street circuit, the hotel is one the best places to see the race. For reservation, e-mail: mosin-reservations@mohg.com or call (+65) 6885 3030.
From Phuket to Maldives and at other Banyan Tree Hotel & Resort properties across Asia, holidaymakers can wake up with a sense of wholeness and balance by taking advantage of the resort’s new Detox and De-stress with a Sense of Rejuvenation promotion. The detox programme features a relaxing Swedish body massage to relieve weary muscles while the de-stress treatment is designed to soothe over-worked souls. For details of the pampering in detail, visitwww.BanyanTree.com/en/rejuvenation-offers.
LiT Bangkok Hotel celebrates Mother’s Day throughout August with an enchanting “My beloved Mom” spa package. Enjoy precious time with your mother for 70 minutes of blissful treatment with a choice of massages inspired by Thai performing arts. Spend the day being indulged together at a very special price of Bt3,000 net for two people. Mother also gets to enjoy extra pampering with a complimentary 30-minute Relaxing Facial or Foot Massage. This boutique hotel is a short walk from National Stadium BTS Station. Call (02) 612 3456 or visit www.LitBangkok.com.
Drive to Pran Buri, a pristine beach beyond Hua Hin, and enjoy a peaceful break at Villa Maroc Resort with the Secret of Spa Indulgence package at Bt7,900 for two sharing. The price includes a savoury breakfast, spa treatment for two and Moroccan-style afternoon tea. The deal is good from now through December 29. Call (032) 630 771 email rsvn@villamarocresort.com. Visitwww.VillaMarocResort.com.
Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel is offering a special deal on its newly renovated rooms until August 20. Prices start from Bt4,500 per night for an Athenee room with international buffet breakfast for two people. Guests also enjoy complimentary Internet and late check out until 2pm. Located in a high-rise building with a glass facade, this upmarket hotel is just five minutes on foot from Phloenchit BTS Station and Central Embassy shopping mall making it ideal for an urban retreat. |Call (02) 650 8800 extension 6206 or e-mailatreservations.bangkok@lemeridien.com.
Smartphones are constantly looking for signals and that interferes with the radio in the cockpit. Christian Charisius /dpa
So you shouldn’t feel too bad if you don’t turn yours off. However there is another reason for the phone ban.
“All electronic devices must be switched off during take-off and landing.” It’s a familiar announcement to all who fly regularly.
And for those who ignore the order, cabin crew on commercial planes are quick to appear with a stern follow-up request.
But why do they even bother?
“The myth that mobile phones have an effect on the electronics of the plane is not true,” says Professor Andreas Strohmayer from the University of Stuttgart’s aircraft construction department.
So you shouldn’t feel too bad if you don’t turn yours off. However there is another reason for the phone ban.
“Smartphones are constantly looking for signals and that interferes with the radio in the cockpit,” explains Strohmayer.
“That means the pilot has a constant crackling in his ear.” In the worst case the pilot may not be able to hear something important over the radio.
“Airlines vary in their estimations of how much interference there is.”
Many airlines just play it safe and ask that smartphones, and other electronic devices, be turned off for take-off and landing.
As far as technology goes, experts say that it’s sufficient to turn on airplane mode – which several airlines now allow.
“If airlines demand that you turn your device off completely, it’s probably just because it makes it easier for them to check,” says Strohmayer.
All the same, he says: “Generally you should listen to the instructions the airline gives you.”
Because at the end of the day, they’re in charge while you’re their guest.
Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation
Mandalay, Myanmar August 3, 2016 6:50 pm
The Strand Cruise takes in the Ayeyarwaddy River in Upper Myanmar. Photo/Courtesy of the Strand Cruise
The valley of pagodas comes into the view as the Strand Cruise approaches the ancient kingdom of Bagan. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee
A fresco of reclining Buddha in Salami Temple, Bagan, Myanmar. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee
A fresco of a praying scene in Sulamani Temple of Bagan, Myanmar, shows the Siamese influence through the elegant postures, slim bodies and old-fashioned hairstyles. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee
An old Myanmar woman smokes a cheroot at the entrance to Hsinbyume Pagoda. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee
A map in the Strand Cruise shows the route along the Ayeyarwaddy River in Upper Myanmar. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee
The Strand Cruise offers fine dining with a menu of traditional Myanmar food and French cuisine. The Nation/Phoowadon Duangmee
The ‘real’ Myanmar emerges on a slow boat to Mandalay, the Strand Cruise
The Romance of old Mandalay all but dissipated when the Chinese moved into the former capital to seek their fortunes in jade and other gemstones excavated from Myanmar’s mines. Once home to King Thibaw, Burma’s last monarch, and a home away from home for British writer George Orwell, Mandalay is today little more than a satellite of China. Yet there is still romance to be found – all you have to do is board a boat and take to the Ayeyarwaddy River.
As our Strand Cruise skates over the surface of the water, chaos gives way to calm and the effect is almost spiritual. Here, along the Ayeyarwaddy River, or the Irrawaddy as it is sometimes called, both the land and the people are authentic. Now and then, we see Myanmar women negotiating the muddy paths as they balance earthen pots on their heads. The air is thick with the fragrances of cheroots and betel, the view from the boat composed of remote villages, gilded pagodas, tier-roofed monasteries and old palaces.
“When we leave Mandalay tonight, we will follow the river downstream to Bagan,” begins Neville, who is acting as cruise manager, as he briefs us at the bar on the sun deck. “When night falls, we will moor in a remote district.”
The Strand Cruise gets its name from its sister – the iconic and legendary Strand Hotel in Yangon. This luxurious new ship began plying the waters early in 2016 taking passengers on stylish river cruises on the historic section of Ayeyarwaddy River. The Strand Cruise is geared towards adventurous culture buffs, the kind of people who want to walk through the villages to search for the Myanmar spirit and heritage but also appreciate a spa treatment and glasses of chardonnay when they get back.
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The expedition takes four days travelling from Mandalay to Bagan and five on the return journey.
On our first day onboard, we stop at Mingun and Sagaing to admire the unfinished pagoda and big bell of Mingun and the whitewashed Hsinbyume Pagoda, whose melancholy tale is similar to that of the Taj Mahal. We return to the ship in time for a sunset cocktail and a delightful dinner of traditional Myanmar dishes, all of which are excellent.
Built locally, the Strand Cruise offers 27 cabin suites and 24 hour butler service. The luxurious ship also hosts a spacious pool deck, wellness centre and wine tasting corner as well as gourmet a la carte cuisine in a restaurant with panoramic views of the river. In short, it’s a floating and compact version of the legendary hotel.
My cabin, 201, is on the main deck. Luxurious as it is stylish, there is plenty of room to move. The wall is adorned with black-and-white photos of old Burma, including a beautiful portrait of a young Burmese woman. Every evening, as the passengers share travel tales over the dining table, the housekeeper slips into our cabins to turn down the beds and leave a Burmese puppet or another delightful souvenir.
We reach Ava on the second day. Nestled on the left bank of Ayeyarwaddy River, Ava or Inwa is the ancient imperial capital of Burmese kingdoms from the 14th to 19th centuries. Ravaged by war and natural disasters over the years, Ava today is scarcely larger than a rural backwater dotted with ruins, monastic buildings and stupas. We explore the remains of the abandoned kingdom by horse cart before taking a break at a roadside café for sweet tea and bean cake.
Back on board, the Strand Cruise resumes its journey towards Bagan.
With the bar, books and board game, the Upper Deck is understandably the most popular spot with passengers. You can bury yourself in a sofa with George Orwell’s “Burmese Days”, or take a glass of wine out to the sun deck for panoramic views of the historic river.
Also known as the “Elephant River”, the Ayeyarwaddy begins at the top of the snow-capped Himalayas then flows for roughly 1,550km passing through the centre of Myanmar before throwing itself into the Andaman Sea. Thousands of temples, stupas as well as royal capitals stand on its banks.
Water levels in July and August are high and it is sometimes impossible to tell the riverbank from the sky. Both – water and sky – look grey. As we sail downstream, we can see the widespread flooding that has left hamlets and pagodas under water. In the distance, people in small sampans bob up and down on the river.
On the second night, the Strand Cruise is moored at Pakokku – a remote township 30 kilometres northwest of Bagan. From my cabin, I can see Myanmar’s longest bridge spanning the river.
About 7.30am on the third day, the very first Myanmar Empire comes into view. From the sun deck, I can clearly see a large white pagoda sitting on the left bank. The tips of other pagodas gradually come into view, shooting up over the mist that lies thick over the forest. As the ship gets closer, the valley of Bagan reveals itself with many more pagodas in different shapes and colours, varying from white bell-shaped pagodas to betel-spit red with a gilded umbrella on top.
“From the plain-looking pagoda of the common man to the gilded pagoda of the kings, the valley of Bagan has more than 2,000 pagodas,” Tin Tin Aye, a member of the Bagan Heritage Trust explains before we disembark for our pagoda visit.
Tucked away in the country’s uplands and nestled along a bend of the Ayeyarwaddy River, Bagan was the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan – the first kingdom to unify on the Ayeyarwaddy Plain. The city enjoyed its glory for two-and-a-half centuries before falling to Kublai Khan’s raiders.
You need a week or more to see the 2,000 pagodas from different angles. Unfortunately, we have only one days in Bagan so we pick the most important. Shwezigon Pagoda of King Anawrahta, Gubyaukgyi temple with its fresco, and of course the famous Ananda Temple are on our list.
I fall in love with the fresco at Sulamani Temple. The corridors inside the temple, which is dimly lit by the daylight, leads us to the murals, which illustrate the lives of the Lord Buddha. Dominated by red complemented by yellow, green and a hue so dark that it could be black, the fresco is from the 12th century. Naung Naung, our guide in Bagan, takes us to the dark corridor before shining her torch on a painting of a Buddhist praying scene.
“We believe this is a scene of Siam,” says Naung Naung. “The hairstyle, the elegant postures and the slim bodies are not so common in Myanmar.”
Nuang Naung and Tin Tin Aye from the Bagan Heritage Trust believe that the Burmese were influenced by Siamese art, pointing out that following the fall of Ayutthaya, artists were most likely among the Siamese brought as hostages to Burma. Ayutthaya art, they say, could well have played a part in the restoration of Sulamani Temple in the 18th Century.
Back on the ship, we find the crew has arranged a cultural show complete with traditional Myanmar dance for our farewell night.
Not too formal an event, the traditional music and performance set against the backdrop of a pagoda valley transport us, at least spiritually, to the days of old Burma.
IF YOU GO
Bangkok Airways operates flight from/to Bangkok and Mandalay. All inclusive 3-night cruise (Mandalay – Bagan) starts at US$1,782 (double Occupancy) and $2,673 (single occupancy) per person. For more deals, visit www.thestrandcruise.com.
THE NATION
CHUSRI NGAMPRASERT August 3, 2016 1:00 am
Black Mountain Championship Golf Course, Thailand’s Hua Hin
From a golfing holiday at a top course to getting up close and cosy with SpongeBob SquarePants, there’s plenty on offer in Asia this month
Experience the life of a professional golfer on tour with three official Asian Tour Stay and Playpackages by Hilton. You’ll enjoy accommodation at a Hilton property for two nights and a round of golf at a championship golf course in Singapore, Indonesia or Thailand. Each package includes 18 holes of golf at Singapore’s top-ranked Laguna National Golf and Country Club, the prestigiousRoyale Jakarta Golf Club, or the Black Mountain Championship Golf Course in Hua Hin, Thailand. To complement the game, the package includes a two-night stay with Hilton Singapore, DoubleTree by Hilton Jakarta Diponegoro or Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa respectively. The offer is available from now until June 16 next year for stays prior to June 30, 2017. Booking must be made at least 14 days prior to arrival. Call (+65) 67 372 233. Visit www.Hilton.com.
Make this Mother’s Day truly memorable at The St Regis Bangkok. On August 12 from noon to 3, treat mother to a brunch featuring the hotel’s Signature Raw Bar, premium-quality grilled imported meats and seafood and decadent dessert creations, complemented by a continuous flow of juices and smoothies. Rates are Bt3,000 per person including wines, sparkling wines, Siam Mary, Martinis, beers, bespoke smoothies, juices and Bt4,700 per person with all beverage options and unlimited Moet & Chandon champagne. If your mum prefers tea to brunch then invite her to enjoy Mother’s Day Afternoon Tea at the Drawing Room from 2 to 5pm. A set for two people, priced at Bt1,200, includes sweet delights and coffee or tea. All mothers having afternoon tea will receive a signature souvenir along with a St Regis Teddy Bear and fresh jasmine. Call (02) 207 7777 or email fb.bangkok@stregis.com.
Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers is celebrating its 33rd anniversary with an exclusive room promotion. Starting from Bt3,333 a night, you’ll enjoy a deluxe room with unobstructed panoramic river views plus daily buffet breakfast for two people. Booking period is from now until August 7 for stays through October 31. Call (02) 665 3165 and quote rate code “DAILY0A” or email res172royalorchid@sheraton.com. Visit http://www.RoyalOrchidSheraton.com.
Plan an enticing break for families and friends at Soneva Kiri on Koh Kood, with a special rate of Bt191,600 for up to six persons. The Private Thai Resident package is valid from now until September 30, with accommodation in a Private Bayview Pool Reserve Villa, and a half-board meal plan that provides breakfast and dinner (including one BBQ at the villa) together with non-alcoholic beverages at the resort’s restaurants. The resort can be accessed by private aircraft from Bangkok, with the round-trip fixed schedule flight available at a supplement of Bt15,000 for an adult and Bt7,500 for a child. Lunch can be added to the package at Bt2,600 per adult and Bt1,300 for a child. Email: reservations@soneva.com or visit www.Soneva.com.
Nickelodeon’s SpongeBob SquarePants and his friends are visiting Hong Kong Ocean Park from Bikini Bottom to engage with guests and fans from all over the world in the city’s first-ever SpongeBob Water Party. The annual Ocean Park Summer Splash features lots of exhilarating water-themed attractions, scrumptious SpongeBob-themed dishes, SpongeBob SquarePants X Ocean Park limited-edition souvenirs, “Get Closer to the Animals” activities, face-painting and workshops. Find out more at www.OceanPark.com.hk/en.
Celebrate Mother’s Day by taking the family for an edutainment experience with the “10 Thai fish species”
Celebrate Mother’s Day by taking the family for an edutainment experience with the “10 Thai fish species” exhibition at Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World from Monday through August 14.
Creatures of the deep
Celebrate Mother’s Day by taking the family for an edutainment experience with the “10 Thai fish species” exhibition at Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World from Monday through August 14. The fish on show are from the rehabilitation project for Thai freshwater fish and other species, one of HM Queen Sirikit’s Royal Initiative Projects. Buy the tickets through Rabbit LINE Pay on http://www.SeaLifeBangkok.com from Sunday to August 13 and for each entry pass purchased, you’ll get another absolutely free. Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World is on floors B1 and B2 of Siam Paragon and is open daily from 10am to 9pm.
In celebration of Her Majesty
Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre together with public and private enterprises are organising a series of celebrations, on the theme “Ngan Silp Khong Mae” (Arts Creation by Her Majesty the Queen) in honour of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s 84th birthday. The festivities kick off with a concert by Kenny Rogers and Linda Davis. Other highlights include a musical fireworks extravaganza featuring seven shows of 8,499 fireworks at the waterfront of Chao Phraya River at Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre in Ayutthaya from August 12 to 14. Also expect exhibitions, fairs, performance, cultural shows, concerts and a candlelight ceremony. Find out more at http://www.NganSilpMae.com.
Swinging with the Akha
The Akha swing high in the air as they honour their ancestors and ask the gods for a good harvest. Akha communities in Chiang Rai, Thailand’s northernmost province, will be pulsating with energy and music during the Akha Swing Festival at various venues on different days in their villages from now to September 30. You don’t have to be a member of the tribe to enjoy it either because this annual festival always welcomes visitors to the village for tribal music, a feast and, of course, a chance to check out the swing. Call Tourism Authority of Thailand Chiang Rai Office at + 66 (0) 53 744 674-5 or TAT Call Centre 1672.
Cebu-Pacific orders new Airbus craft
Manila-based Cebu Pacific has placed a firm order with Airbus for two A330-300s. The aircraft will join the airline’s existing fleet of six A330s used on long-range flights to destinations in the Middle East and Australia, as well on selected domestic and regional routes. The newly ordered aircraft will enable the airline to add more long-haul routes, including the launch of its first flights to the US. Cebu Pacific currently operates 49 Airbus aircraft, including six A330s and a fleet of 43 A320 Family single aisle aircraft on its extensive domestic and regional network. In addition to the contract announced recently, the airline has 32 latest generation A321neo aircraft on order for future delivery.
Hukou Waterfall has regained its magnificent look, as its maximum flow reached its normal 30-meter drop again.
The waterfall drop stood at just two meters during the July-August rainy season, as heavy rainfall increased the level of the water in the plunge pool at the foot of the waterfall. Hukou Waterfall is located at the intersection of Shanxi and Shaanxi provinces, and is the largest waterfall on the Yellow River.
A special report by Dawn, a member of Asia News Network.
The first major terror attack in Karachi by extremist outfits took place in2002.
A bus carrying French engineers was targeted, killing many.
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The same year (2002) suicide bombers belonging to an extremist outfit targeted the US Embassy in Karachi near Hotel Marriot.
Dozens of bystanders were killed. The Musharraf regime acknowledged that a new form of terror and violence has struck Pakistan.
A middle-class couple in Karachi, 2004.
The Musharraf regime greatly liberalised the economy and offered easy loans. The urban middle-classes benefited from this and their ranks grew rapidly.
But just as had happened during the Ayub regime, this time too, an economic boom had a flip side. Apart from giving more consumption powers to the urban middle-classes, it further widened economic disparities as well.
A vicious storm lashes Karachi in 2006.
The year’s monsoon in the city was extraordinarily harsh, causing severe urban flooding and deaths. The monsoon season in Karachi is normally very mild. But after every five years or so, Karachi receives heavy rains from ‘cloud bursts’.
Weather experts suggest that heavy monsoons in Karachi are not a norm because monsoon rains in the city are ‘mainly due to meteorological accidents’. By this they mean that heavy rains only occur in Karachi due to some unexpected weather conditions in the Arabian Sea or over the Gujarat province in neighbouring India.
The 2006 rains broke various previous records. They were compared to the record rains Karachi had received during the monsoon seasons of 1901,1967, 1976-77 and 1994.
2007 was particularly violent for Karachi. Terrorist attacks on civilians and security forces by clandestine extremist outfits increased twofold, and clashes between supporters of the Musharraf regime and opponents led to many deaths.
Karachi’s economy, which had enjoyed a brief boom in the early 2000s, had begun to buckle.
For the next many years, crime in the city would rise to unprecedented levels, forcing the military, the federal government (now led by Nawaz Sharif’s centre-right PML-N), and Sindh’s PPP-led provincial regime to initiate an extensive operation against terrorists and criminal gangs.
Karachi’s Seaview area near the Clifton Beach in 2015. Till the late 1970s, the area was a long stretch of sea, sand and shrubs.
Today, it is one of the most thriving residential, commercial and recreational areas of Karachi.
Body of a whale washed ashore the Clifton Beach. The hectic building boom along the Clifton Beach has severely polluted the sea waters here.
Karachi’s largest multiplex cinema, The Nueplex.
Multiplex cinemas mushroomed across the city from the mid-2000s onward. As conventional cinemas went out of fashion, multiplexes have been enjoying the return of middle-class audiences to watch films on the big screen.
Karachi’s Prince Cinema today. Built in 1977, it was the country’s largest cinema and the first one which had a 70mm screen, and Dolby sound system.
It was also the most expensive. However, decades later, it has been struggling to come to terms with the challenges posed by multiplexes. It survived the crisis of the 1980s when the VCR made sure to keep audiences seated in their homes, and it also survived when a rabid mob of extremists went on a rampage a few years ago and burned down a number of cinemas (Prince, Bambino, Nishat, Capri).
Nishat never reopened. Such cinemas now squarely cater to working-class audiences who can’t afford tickets at multiplexes.
Karachi (and Pakistan’s) tallest building under-construction.
Called the Icon Tower, it is situated in the New Clifton area of the city (near the famous shrine of Sufi saint, Abdullah Shah Ghazi).
It is going to be 60-stories-high and is expected to be completed by early 2017. So far, the tallest building in Pakistan is Karachi’s MCB Tower on II Chundrigarh Road. Built in the 2000s, it broke the record held by Habib Bank Plaza (also located on the same road). The Habib Bank Plaza (now HBL Plaza) was built in the early 1960s.
A special report by Dawn, a member of the Asia News Network
PIA airhostesses receiving lessons in English and French in Karachi in 1975.
PIA continued to grow into a world-class airline, and was making handsome profits since the mid-1960s. Karachi Airport, too, remained one of the busiest in the region, accommodating flights belonging to all the leading airlines of the world. But from the late 1980s onwards, PIA began to face a gradual decline. Its quality of service deteriorated and by the 2000s, it was on the verge of bankruptcy. It still is.
The airport in Karachi, too, lost out its ‘gateway to Asia’ status to Dubai. And due to rising incidents of terrorism in Pakistan, traffic at the airport was drastically reduced, despite the fact that the airport was shifted to a brand new building in 1992.
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The incomplete building of what was supposed to be one of the largest 5-star hotels in Asia.
With rising violence in Beirut in the mid-1970s, the Bhutto regime planned to divert the wealthy European and Arab tourists from the crumbling casinos of Beirut to Karachi. For this purpose, the Bhutto government began building a large 5-star hotel in the heart of Karachi (Hayat Hotel), and an equally large casino situated on the shoes of the city’s Clifton Beach area.
By 1977 both the buildings were almost complete when Bhutto was overthrown in a reactionary military coup. Work on the hotel and the casino was halted. The empty casino building was finally torn down in the 2000s, whereas the incomplete structure of the hotel still stands, rather aimlessly.
The ‘recreational’ wealth Bhutto was trying to attract to Karachi eventually moved to Dubai.
The 5-star Taj Mahal Hotel on Karachi’s Shara-e-Faisal in 1981.
Its appearance symbolised a brief respite from economic turmoil which the city had fallen into in the late 1970s. The Ziaul Haq dictatorship was replenished with US and Saudi aid (at the start of the Afghan Civil War), and it also began to dismantle Bhutto’s rather ill-formed ‘socialist’ economic policies.
A new class of nouveau-riche began to emerge, which was comfortable with combining the accumulation of wealth and material exuberance with exhibitions of public piety encouraged by the Zia dictatorship.
Many members of this new class could be found holding business lunches and dinners at the Taj Mahal. The hotel still exists but in a more depleted state. It is now called the Regent Plaza and has become a 2-star resort.
Karachi’s Seaview Area begins to emerge in 1982.
Much of this area, located along the Clifton Beach, had just been about the sea, sand and shrubs. But in the early 1980s, town-houses and small bungalows began to come up, mostly catering to the growing middle-class sections of Karachi.
Today, it has become a widespread residential area with shopping malls, exotic restaurants and tall office buildings. However, the sea water here has become extremely polluted.
Prince Karim Agha Khan being given a tour of the Agha Khan Hospital in 1983.
Funded by the prince, the hospital has remained Karachi’s largest and most sophisticated surgical and treatment facility. It also has an excellent medical university attached to it.
Two photos of the same street in one of Karachi’s largest impoverished areas, Orangi. The pictures were taken by famous architect and sociologist Arif Hassan to demonstrate the success of the Orangi Pilot Project (OPP).
The first picture is from 1983 and second from 1984. OPP was an initiative of Akhtar Hameed Khan, a social scientist. He began a ‘bottom up community development program’ in Orangi which, at the time, was a large slum.
He registered the OPP as an NGO and then generated funds and plans for the upliftment of Orangi. He mobilised the area’s people and involved them in various self-help schemes aimed at building an effective sewerage and sanitation system, paved streets, low-income housing, schools and medical facilities.
He often got into tussles with the many land-grabbing, extortion and drug gangs operating here. The gangs utilised the area’s religious figures to intimidate him. But the OPP was a huge success.
Pakistan and India battle it out in the 1981 Champions Trophy at the Hockey Club of Pakistan (HCP).
The HCP is a state-of-the-art hockey stadium and headquarters of Pakistan’s hockey federation. Situated off Shara-e-Faisal Road in Karachi, it was inaugurated in 1979 and was the first hockey ground in the country to have an Astroturf field.
The HCP held various international tournaments between 1980 and 1992. Most of them were won by Pakistan which was a force in international field hockey between the 1960s and early 1990s. Pakistan’s fortunes, in this respect, began to plummet after 1994, so much so that by the 2000s, this once international hockey power and winner of three hockey World Cups was even struggling to qualify for the sport’s major events. The HCP stopped holding international events. The last major event here was actually a pop concert in 1995.
1985: School and college students chant slogans against the government and Karachi’s ‘transport mafia’ the day after a Mohajir student, Bushra Zaidi, was run over by a bus.
The accident sparked a series of deadly riots between the Mohajirs and the Pakhtuns of Karachi.
Hundreds of people lost their lives. These riots triggered a cycle of ethnic conflicts which became an uncomfortable norm in the city. The riots were initially the result of Karachi’s resources coming under great stress due to the unchecked influx of Afghan refugees.
Drug and land-grabbing mafias became interwoven with corrupt security personnel and some politicians and guns became easily available on the black market. This was also the start of ethnic ghettoisation in Karachi, in which ethnic communities began residing in areas mostly populated by their respective ethnic group.
Crew of the first ever Emirates Airline flight to Pakistan in 1985.
The flight arrived from Dubai to Karachi. Emirates, which would go on to become one of the leading airlines in the world, was initially set up by the UAE government with the help of engineers, pilots and administrators belonging to Pakistan’s national airline, PIA.
Ironically, from the late 1980s, as Emirates was beginning its gradual rise, PIA had already begun its eventual decline.
Members of Airport Security Guard posted near an American Pan Am plane on the runway of the Karachi Airport in 1986.
The plane, which was scheduled to take-off from Karachi to JFK Airport in New York (via Frankfurt), was stormed by four radical Palestinian militants belonging to the notorious Marxist Abu Nidal group. The militants had entered the plane dressed as security personnel.
They shot dead an airhostess before Pakistani army commandos entered the plane in the dead of the night. Twenty passengers lost their lives in the gun fight between the commandos and the militants. The dead included Indian, Mexican, American and Pakistani passengers. The militants were captured alive.
Master West Indian batsman, Viv Richards, hitting out against Pakistan at Karachi’s National Stadium during the 1987 Cricket World Cup.
The 1987 World Cup was the first major cricket tournament held in Pakistan (jointly held with India). Both Pakistan and India reached the semi-finals of the event but lost. Australia beat England in the final to win its first cricket World Cup trophy. It would go on to win it four more times!
The National Stadium had a history of crowd trouble. But when in 1987, the stadium was upgraded and a roof constructed over the general stands (to keep out the angry Karachi sun), incidents of pitch invasion and crowd violence decreased dramatically.
Karachi-based pop/rock band, Milestones. Formed in 1990, it went on to become part of a fresh wave of Pakistani pop music which swept the country in the 1990s.
Heroin addiction shot up dramatically in Pakistan in the 1980s.
The most severely hit city was Karachi. Heroin addiction was almost non-existent in Karachi till 1979. But by the end of the 1980s, Karachi had one of the largest number of addicts in Pakistan, numbering in millions.
Heroin first began proliferating in the metropolis when it was introduced by drug peddlers, who had accompanied Afghan refugees arriving in Karachi after the start of the Afghan Civil War in December 1979. Peddlers first handed out the drug free of cost calling it ‘meethi chars‘ (sweet hashish).
Users were not told it was physically addictive. But once the users were hooked, the peddlers began to charge them. Growth in drug addiction also led to more violent drug gangs and crime among addicts who soon ran out of money to satisfy their addiction.
The heroin menace cut across classes. In the late 1990s, when the price of heroin became even steeper, most addicts began to inject it. This led to the spread of diseases such as AIDs and fatal forms of hepatitis. Karachi still suffers from a major heroin problem.
Source: The detoxification of high dose heroin addicts in Pakistan: Micheal Goossop (1989)
A market in Karachi shut-down due to a strike in 1993.
When the state and government launched an operation against the alleged ‘militant wings’ of the city’s largest party, the MQM, strikes became common in Karachi.
Throughout the 1990s, strikes shut down businesses and Karachi’s economy and law and order situation deteriorated drastically. Hundreds of policemen and members of the MQM died in the conflict.
Indian actor Shashi Kapoor and British actor Christopher Lee shooting a scene in Karachi in 1997.
The scene was for the biopic of Pakistan’s founder Muhammad Ali Jinnah.
England cricketer McDermott Reeves enjoys a camel ride in Karachi.
Reed was part of the England cricket squad which toured Pakistan in 2000 for Test and ODI series.
A special feature of Dawn, a member of Asia News Network
Karachi’s McLeod Road in 1962. After the economic boom and rapid industrialisation witnessed during the first half of the Ayub regime, McLeod Road became to be known as the ‘Wall Street of Pakistan’.
New buildings housing the Karachi Stock Exchange, banks, insurance companies, newspaper offices, other financial institutions and advertising agencies sprang up.
Between 1959 and 1965, streets of this area were regularly washed with water. Later, the area was renamed I.I. Chundrigar Road and has become extremely congested and polluted.
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A Pakhtun rickshaw driver in Karachi’s Clifton area in 1963. The economic and building boom witnessed during the first phase of the Ayub regime saw the influx of labour arriving in Karachi from Pakistan’s NWFP province.
The hard-working Pakhtuns immediately populated the city’s labour force and also began to operate businesses involved in providing public transport. However, tensions began to mount between the city’s Mohajir majority and the new Pakhtun arrivals. The city eventually witnessed its first Mohajir-Pashtun riot in 1965.
Pro-Ayub graffiti on a wall in Karachi during the 1965 Presidential election.
Ayub Khan (Muslim League-Convention) defeated Fatima Jinnah (of Combined Opposition Parties — an alliance of anti-Ayub left and right outfits) and was re-elected as President. However, Karachi was the only city which voted against Ayub.
1967: An air-hostess of Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) pours Champagne for a business-class passenger at Karachi Airport.
In the 1960s, PIA rapidly emerged as one of the top airlines in the world and the Karachi Airport became ‘the gateway to Asia’.
The Intercontinental Hotel, 1966.
It was a popular high-end hotel in a city enjoying an economic boom and a rising number of foreign dignitaries, business personnel and tourists arriving for work and play to Karachi.
The hotel was re-named Pearl Continental in the 1990s. It is now mostly surrounded by tall barricades and security guards due to rise of terrorism and militancy in the city from 2004 onward.
A rare 1965 photograph of the last remnants of Karachi’s Jew community.
The community had grown in size in the early 1900s, but began to shrink from the 1950s onward. By the 1960s, only a handful of Jews remained in Karachi. They completely vanished after late 1960s (moving abroad).
Members of Karachi’s Jew community spoke fluent Hebrew, English, Urdu and even some Arabic.
Source: Pakistan’s Lost Jews: Rumana Hussain (Newsline, December 2013).
A widespread slum in Karachi in 1968.
The Ayub regime’s industrialisation project and pro-business policies had triggered an economic boom. But this boom had a flip side to it as well.
It also created serve economic disparities and gaps between classes and the expansion of slums like this one. The slums did not have any running water, sewerage system or electricity and were riddled with poverty, rising crime and alcoholism.
These tensions were expressed by an intense anti-Ayub movement in 1968-69, largely orchestrated by left-wing student outfits, labour unions and populist political parties. The movement forced Ayub to resign in early 1969.
The populist ZA Bhutto regime, which took power in December 1971, would go on to ‘regularise’ most of Karachi’s slums by providing them with some amenities, and ownership of land to those residing here. The Bhutto regime would also go on to build walls around such slums to stem their physical growth.
A 1970 Pakistani passport.
Though the Pakistani passport was always green (ever since the country’s creation in 1947), the full name of the country inscribed on it kept changing.
From 1947 till 1955, ‘Pakistan Passport’ was inscribed (in Urdu, Bengali and English) on the cover. This was changed to ‘Republic of Pakistan’ in 1956, and then to ‘Islamic Republic of Pakistan’ in 1958.
In 1960, the Ayub regime reverted it to ‘Republic of Pakistan. In 1969, the inscription was changed back to the simple ‘Pakistan Passport’. This was changed in 1973 to ‘Islamic Republic of Pakistan’ by the Bhutto regime (now written only in Urdu and English, because the Bengali-dominated East Pakistan had broken away in 1971).
This has remained, even though the Musharraf regime (1999-2008) did try to revert the inscription back to ‘Republic of Pakistan’, but his move was opposed by conservative opposition parties.
A 1973 photograph of a pop band playing at a nightclub in Karachi.
A majority of such bands, which played regularly at hotels and nightclubs of the city, consisted of members of Karachi’s vibrant Christian community. The community was largely Catholic and its ancestors had begun to arrive in Karachi in the early 1900s. Most had come from Goa where they had been converted to Christianity by Portuguese colonialists.
Karachi’s Christian community largely resided in the Saddar areas and was involved in education. The late 1960s and 1970s were the heydays of Christian pop bands, and most Christian youth made their living through this.
However, after nightclubs were closed down in April 1977 and a reactionary dictatorship came to power in July 1977, such bands struggled to find work. Many from these bands slipped into depression and alcoholism and died young, or migrated abroad. By the 1990s and 2000s, a majority of Karachi’s Christians had migrated.
—Picture courtesy: LMKonline.
McLeod Road in 1975.
Though it was still being called the ‘Wall Street of Pakistan’, the economy of the country which had boomed in the early and mid-1960s had already begun to falter.
Major industries and capital, which were concentrated in private hands, began to take flight and were stashed abroad after the Bhutto regime implemented its ‘socialist’ policies.
Most banks and insurance companies situated on this road were nationalised and fell into disarray. The economy also struggled to come to terms with the dramatic rise in global oil prices.
A 1975 poster of a Karachi-based pop band.
The 1970s were a surreal and flamboyant era in the city. Exaggerated and extroverted displays of one’s personality was common among the youth.
Bhutto inaugurates Pakistan’s first nuclear-power plant in Karachi in 1972. Bhutto accelerated Pakistan’s nuclear program in 1974 after India tested its first nuclear device. By the 1980s, Pakistan had developed its own nuclear device which it tested a decade later in 1998.
The plant which Bhutto inaugurated in Karachi is still operational.
Karachi’s famous Nishat Cinema in 1974.
It thrived in the 1970s and even survived the impact of the VCR invasion in the 1980s. However, in the 2000s, it was completely destroyed and set on fire by militant mobs incited by religious outfits. It has not been reconstructed.
Karachi’s busy Saddar area in 1974.
It had been an upscale shopping area during British Raj. From the mid-1960s, it began evolving as the epicentre of Karachi’s nightlife.
Its streets were lined with trendy restaurants, shops, bars and nightclubs, mostly catering to Karachi’s middle-classes. By the 1980s, it began to fall into disarray and suffer severe congestion. Today, it is a pale and an ill reflection of what it used to be.
Fishermen catch hammerhead sharks in Karachi’s coastal area in 1976.
Karachi always had a prominent fishing industry (fisheries), and it still does. However, ironically, it is perhaps the only major coastal city in the world where seafood is not all that popular.
Though small seafood eateries thrive near the port, and in the city’s historical coastal areas, such as Kemari, exclusive seafood restaurants are rare in Karachi.
This is mostly due to the fact that after the creation of Pakistan in 1947, the majority group of the city was made up of refugees arriving from various cities and towns of India. Many of these cities and towns were landlocked and never fully developed a taste for seafood.
Children enjoy a ride at a slum in Karachi in 1977.
The Bhutto regime ‘regularised’ many such slums by providing their residents land ownership and some amenities. Bhutto also got walls built around the slums to stem their growth, but the increasing rate of population in Karachi, inflation, and unemployment, could not stem swelling of poverty and economic desperation.
Criminal gangs dealing in drugs (mostly hashish), prostitution, pick-pocketing, gambling and black marketing grew two-fold in such slums, one of which was situated in the Lyari area. Paradoxically, Lyari had become a bastion of Bhutto’s Pakistan Peoples Party (PPP) from 1970 onward.