The old Zen riddle takes on new meaning in the heart of Thailand’s “Emerald Triangle”, where Phu Chong Na Yoi National Park sprawls 686 square kilometres in mountain lands that border Laos and Cambodia. This forest sanctuary in Ubon Ratchathani province is famous for its waterfalls, whose monsoon-swollen torrents plunge over cliffs between the lush deciduous forests that carpet these mountains.

Among them is Kueng Mae Phong Waterfall, with a thundering cascade that is second only to the park’s giant, Huai Luang Waterfall, which crashes down from 30 metres over three rock steps into the turquoise pool at its feet.

Other watery wonders hidden in the dense forest are Nuanlaor Waterfall and Kaeng Sila Thip rapids. However, our expedition veers off the beaten track and into the deepest part of the forest, which few visitors ever see.

Our adventure starts from the renowned Kaeng Ka Lao rapids, famous for their clear water and opportunities to get wet.

The mud road taken was once used to transport timber out of the forest, in the days of wood-cutting concessions. Commercial logging came to an end after Phu Chong Na Yoi was enshrined as a national park in 1987. Tree-felling for profit has been banned here ever since.

The mud road winds through the forest for about 10 kilometres but is too rough for two-wheel-drive cars. Faced with the option of a four-wheel-drive or a motorcycle, I grab the latter and set off into the wilderness.

My first stop is the forest rangers’ office, which leaves me four more kilometres of even rougher riding till I reach my destination.

After battling for another eternity through the deep monsoon mud, I finally skid to a stop at the object of my quest. Kueng Mae Fong waterfall is neither big nor visually spectacular. But few people have seen this gem hidden in the heart of the forest, which gives me a special sense of accomplishment. And something else: As my ears and eyes are enfolded by the ribbon of blue unfurling from the cliff, a rare sense of intimacy with my surroundings descends. Until it’s time to go, and I crank the bike into a roar that drowns out everything, even the sound of the waterfall.

The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, officially known as Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram, the Grand Palace and Bangkok City Pillar Shrine are open from 8.30am to 4pm from Sunday.Visitors must strictly follow the preventive measures for Covid-19 outlined by the Public Health Ministry, including social distancing and wearing face masks.

At 8am, police removed barriers that were blocking entry to the beach, while tourists and locals waited patiently to step back on the sand and swim in the sea again.

However, police have banned vendors’ stalls and other tourism services until June 5, when the beach will officially reopen.

Alcohol is also prohibited, and anyone found drinking on the beach will be arrested.

Bang Saen is considered the closest beach to Bangkok, lying just 108 kilometres to the east of the capital.

A local family told the Nation Thailand that their son was delighted to be allowed back, as the beach was part of the community.

However, the father said they would remain cautious over Covid-19.

Pongthep Malachasing, president of Nakhon Ratchasima’s tourism club, said the hillsides are usually covered in colourful flowers upon the arrival of the rainy season.

“These fields of flowers have become popular among locals and tourists, who stop to take photographs to post on social media,” he said.

These fields covered in bright, colourful blooms have become a new tourist attraction in Nakhon Ratchasima, with many people coming to enjoy the fresh air and natural surroundings in the Wang Nam Kheow district.

The ocean laps calmly, and when you close your eyes to feel the salty breeze, you can hear the rustling of tropical forests right off the coast. Vendors sell just-cracked coconuts sloshing over with fresh juice. Point in any land-bound direction, and within a few miles you’ll find the world’s best beach resorts, gracious hospitality, and restaurants that vary from street food stalls to a Michelin-starred dining room. It’s the best of all worlds, somehow squeezed onto a picturesque island that’s just a puddle-hop flight from my home in Bangkok.

Even an “up and down” one-hour flight feels impossibly far away at this time. While some of Thailand’s provinces haven’t reported a single case of covid-19, Phuket has become the country’s biggest hot spot. The island, which once received about a million tourists each month, is now deserted. And the government is forecasting that tourism won’t reignite until a vaccine emerges, which could take well more than a year.

But Phuket remains my mental refuge. Bangkok, like many other locked-down cities with its compact living spaces, isn’t meant for a quarantined lifestyle. When I open my windows in my downtown apartment, I’m greeted by construction noises and rooftops of neighboring buildings rather than blue water and the sound of chirping birds. Life, in other words, is not a beach.

Until I can get back safely to Phuket, I’ll relish one silver lining about its current quietude. In recent years the island was suffering from overtourism; huge numbers of visitors and too many boat businesses had led to the buildup of marine debris, damaged coral, and a disruption in the balance of wildlife and natural habitats. A pause on human visitors has brought out rare sea turtles to nest in record numbers on empty beaches, and the manatee-like creatures called dugongs have been spotted in typically boat-riddled shallows. That means Phuket will be its most beautiful self whenever we can return.

When the time comes, of course I’ll hit up some of my local favorites-but I’ll also indulge in the singularly luxurious spots that have given Phuket its prime position at the top of many bucket lists. Here’s how to nail the best of both worlds.

Even as a native Thailander, I find the food served from southern kitchens akin to the old ghost pepper challenge-it flexes your spicy taste receptors until they’re numb and tingly. Besides being unapologetically hot, it’s also rich and decadent: think pork kua kling, a spicy dish spiked with kaffir lime leaves and curry paste, or the stir-fried bitter beans with shrimp paste called sataw pad kapi.

I tend to order both at Raya, my favorite restaurant on the island. It’s set inside a century-old house in Phuket Old Town-an unassuming spot that you could easily pass by and never notice, with a geometric tiled floor and black-and-white photos on its walls. It’s not air-conditioned, so on a hot day, I’ll head to the nearby Tu Kab Khao instead. Located in a colonial building with coffered ceilings and Murano chandeliers, it focuses on prettied-up versions of family recipes such as stir-fried pork leg with salted krill and stir-fried pumpkin with dried shrimp and shrimp paste.

Charter a boat for a day from Phuket, as it’s possible to explore the many islands of the Andaman Sea. Head a few hours northwest to find the Similan Islands, an archipelago of 11 islets that are ringed by crystal-clear waters inhabited by neon coral, turtles, and reef sharks. To the east are Thailand’s famous Phi Phi Islands and the less-visited Koh Yao Noi and Koh Yao Yai, which offer secluded beaches and pristine coves.

On Phuket itself, there’s much more to do than whiling the day away under the sun. Old Phuket Town, with its brightly colored Portuguese-inspired buildings, has long been dismissed as overly rundown. But the area has been experiencing a renaissance: Historic buildings have been restored and turned into cafes, restaurants, and shops. Enormous, colorful murals now coat previously crumbling facades. Most nights of the week, the streets are lined with vendors who simmer traditional dishes, be it pots of rice and pork rib soup or bowls of stir-fried noodles with eggs.

Just a short cab ride away is Chalong Bay Rum Distillery, where small-batch rum is made from organic Thai sugarcane. Go in the afternoon for a two-hour cocktail workshop; you’ll learn about the artisanal process while roaming a sun-drenched plantation. From the thatched-roof open-air dining room, you’ll also learn to make a few drinks, including a Thai twist on the caipirinha that’s flavored with red chile. (They call it the spicyrinha.)

When it comes to hotels in Phuket, there’s no sense in going off the beaten path. The island is home to some of the best resorts in the world, including the very first feather in Aman’s glorious cap. Opened in 1988, Amanpuri has 44 villas with private pools and 40 pavilions spread out on a former coconut plantation, each adorned with traditional Thai arts including decorative bowls and Buddhist ornaments. Not only is it a coveted spot to rest your head at night, but the resort offers access to a private beach with ultra-fine sand and clear water, where the lounge chairs are shaded by beautiful parasols and flanked by enormous gray boulders.

If nature is what you need, try a treetop villa at Keemala instead. The hillside resort is surrounded by lush rainforest and looks pulled out of a fantasy film set; some of the rooms are fashioned after birds nests, and from their plunge pools you can commune with chirping cicadas and crickets.

For the ultimate in seclusion, if that’s what remains on order in a post-lockdown world, there’s Como Point Yamu on Phuket’s quiet east side. Its turquoise-hued, glass-walled villas face the bay, which means any photo you take pointing outwards will be blue-on-blue-on-blue. Included in its amenities are a boat that takes you to a private beach club on nearby Naka Yai Island-perfect for kayaking and paddle boarding-and a 100-meter-long infinity pool facing the vast sea and its many limestone islands.

As I daydream about Phuket, I’m planning on supporting Soi Dog Foundation, which rescues dogs from the meat trade and helps find them homes abroad. With international flights grounded, the organization will need more help than ever to provide food and medical support for the animals in its care.