TEARS WERE shed when the iconic Prince Rama cinema in Bangkok’s Bang Rak district closed down in 2010 and today they are being shed again – this time with joy – as the Prince bounces back to life, this time as a brand-new contemporary hostel called Prince Theatre Heritage Stay.

Tucked away in an alley off Charoen Krung Road, the original structure remains the same, though it has been reinforced to ensure safety, while a new layout provides modern facilities and common spaces for urban living.

The brand-new, cinema-themed Prince Theatre Heritage Stay hotel evokes memories of the good old days. 

Part of Thailand’s Treasury Department’s conservation and development project to promote age-old communities as heritage tourist attractions, the makeover of the old cinema is down to Montara Hospitality Group and its subsidiary Heritage Stay, which spent Bt60 million transforming the historic building into a chic cinema-themed hotel that really works.

“My family started in the hospitality business by opening the luxury Trisara Phuket Villa & Residences. We have now broadened our portfolio to include a luxury boutique hotel and hostel. In 2016, we refurbished and restored an old Lanna wooden house in Lampang to serve as an art centre operated by the Niyom Pattamasaevi Foundation. It was a success and we want to continue our architectural conservation project in Bangkok,” says Kittisak Pattamasaevi, chief commercial officer of Montara Hospitality Group, which also owns the Phraya Palazzo boutique hotel next to the Chao Phraya river.

The Cinema Social Scenes offers daily screenings of classic blockbusters, starting at 6.30pm. 

“The Treasury Department set up a conservation and development programme to help residents in many communities renovate their houses and landscapes. The department is also very open to having the private sector take part in developing local properties, so we proposed turning the Prince Theatre Heritage Stay into a sustainable business model.”

This historic building was built in 1912 and first served as a royal casino – one of Bangkok’s last five gambling houses in the reign of King Chulalongkorn. It became a major entertainment venue surrounded by Thai-style taverns, pawnbrokers, opium dens, fresh markets and brothels but became a little too raucous and was eventually shut down.

The Montara Hospitality Group invested Bt60 million to refurbish and restore its newest property.

In 1917, with the film industry expanding its reach to Thailand, Payon Pattanakorn Company converted the building into the Prince Theatre and screened classic silent and black-and-white movies.

In 1957, it fell into the hands of entrepreneur Sa-ngob Hetrakul and was renamed Prince Rama in reference to the widescreen process known as Cinerama. It quickly became popular, screening Hollywood, Hong Kong and Thai blockbusters that drew movie-goers of all ages.

The Prince Rama encountered a new set of challenges when shopping complexes started popping up around town incorporating the multiplex cinema and causing stand-alone cinemas to go bust. The owners responded by turning into a cinema showing nude and porn movies but even that wasn’t enough to help it survive.

Old movie tickets

“King Chulalongkorn wanted to abolish slavery in Thailand, so he gradually closed hundreds of betting houses in an attempt to stop the practice of selling wives and children to pay a debt. The Bang Rak royal casino moved here and operated until films arrived and the casinos were turned into cinemas,” says Chittipan Srikasikorn, managing director of Heritage Stay.

“The Prince Rama could seat about 700 and the tickets were priced at Bt7. The original building had one and a half floors made of wood and was covered with an old zinc roof, once abandoned became a residence for the homeless. We spent a full year on the renovations, doing everything we could to conserve its charming architecture and the vintage atmosphere.”

The Box Office Bar and Cafe spoils movie lovers with an exclusive creation of classic film-inspired cocktails and mocktails. 

The two-floor hostel, which opened in February, spans 1,400 square metres and its entrance transports guests back to the good old days with colourful Art Deco style windows and high ceilings.

Smart and functional, the ground floor is home to a lobby and the Cinema Social Scenes equipped with a large screen and a collectible laser projector, which can be turned into a stage or auditorium for talk shows and art workshops.

Alongside, a vintage office-like gallery displays black-and-white photographs and collectibles from the 1910s to the 1990s and guests can learn about the history of the former landlords, the community and then latest refurbishment while the staff check them in.

The lobby shares space with an exhibition of collectible antiques and photographs depicting the Prince Rama, the Bang Rak community and the hotel construction. 

Also on view is a collection of old cinema tickets, movie rental contracts from Warner Brothers and other film studios, vintage flatirons, old-fashioned stereos and construction images depicting how the theatre has changed.

Focusing on convenience and comfort, the hotel offers 28 guestrooms in the categories of private suites and shared rooms. The four luxury suites are decorated in different designs to reflect the building’s history.

The cinema manager’s chamber has morphed into an elegant Prince Theatre Master Suite. 

The Prince Theatre Master Suite took over the manager’s chamber and its interior design draws on the days of black-and-white film, while the Prince Rama Master Suite is adorned with vintage handbills and uses a palette of red and black to create a sexy look in the style of a nude movie.

The posh duplex-level suite Casino Loft brings to mind a scene in a James Bond movie, where 007 and a sexy girl huddle in a casino’s private room while the Chinese Opera Loft suite takes guests back to the glory days of a Bang Rak gambling house.

Luxurious and airy, all suites offer a living space with 40” LED TV, working table, a king-size bed, coffee and tea making facilities, wardrobe, safety box and a private bathroom with hot shower complete with all amenities. They’re priced at a very reasonable Bt4,200.

. Guests can choose between a variety of shared rooms, adorned with old-fashioned handbills.

The hostel style accommodation, meanwhile, ranges from a shared duplex with six beds, a shared room with single beds, a shared room with double beds and shared rooms of four and six beds for ladies only. Entrance is with a key card and each attractively decorated room comes with hangers and lockers and an en-suite bathroom with separate shower and toilet and kitted out with a hair dryer, towels, shampoo and shower gel.

And while each corner of the shared facilities is on the small side, they are also comfortable, coming with a privacy curtain, reading light, electric sockets and a private locker at the head of the bed. Prices range from Bt1,000 to Bt1,200.

The Sky Fall mocktail pays tribute to James Bond.

All-day dining room the Box Office Bar and Cafe serves a choice of continental-style breakfast or guests are free to order dishes from popular stalls and restaurants around the neighbourhood and eat in.

In the evening, the bar offers a selection of creative cocktails and mocktails inspired by several of the classic movies that were screened here. For example, Borsalino (1970) is blended with rum, amaretto, jasmine syrup and lemon, Romeo & Juliet (1964) mingles rose-infused vodka, infused Bianco Vermouth and chocolate butter and the Sky Fall mocktail is a healthy mix of tomato juice, Thai spice syrup and lime.

“The hotel is a short walk from Taksin BTS station, Sathorn pier and the Creative District. Bang Rak is famous for its delectable street food, some of which appears in the Bangkok Michelin Guide. Staying with us, guests can indulge in the charming theatre atmosphere and during the day we offer a walking tour programme to explore the bakeries, restaurants and important places in the community,” Kittisak says.

And, of course, there’s movie night with a bill of fare that changes every day. Among the golden oldies showing this month daily except Sunday at 6.30pm are “Doll Face” (1945), “The Stranger” (1946), Charlie Chaplin’s “The Immigrant” (1917), “The Women in Green” (1945), “Suddenly” (1954), “D.O.A” (1949) and “The Little Princess” (1939).

SCREENING TONIGHT

Prince Theatre Heritage Stay is located at 441/1 Charoen Krung Road of Bangkok.

For more information or reservations, call (02) 090 2858 or visit http://www.PrinceHeritage.com.

“We are thrilled to host the Backstage Festival again this year and excited to double the fun with two nights of high-energy performances from local and international headliners. They include Thai favourites Thaitanium and Tensnake from Germany. Six DJs each day will be manning the decks and adding an extra vibe to outdoor activities in our tropical beach setting. We would like to invite and welcome everyone to join our shows and activities, no matter where they are staying,” says Daniel Simon, general manager of W Koh Samui.

The lineup for the opening day includes Thaitanium, Mendy Indigo, DJ Dede, T Gecko, DJ Tobi, Kate Sara, and BKK Revolution, while the second day features Tensnake, Armando Mendes, Darragh Casey, DJ Orawan, Nick Taylor, DJ Valente, and Andrey Belkin.

German DJ Tensnake is best known for his 2010 track “Coma Cat” with a disco-influenced style, which appeared on at least 15 compilations that year.

Born in Hamburg in 1975, Marco Niemerski, to give Tensnake his real name, grew up listening to disco, soul, boogie, funk and 80s pop. In 2005, he launched his Mirau label with friends released “Around the House”, “Restless” and “I Say Mista”. He has also released EPs on other labels such as “Dust” at Players Paradise in 2007, “Fried Egg” at Radius Records in 2007, and “Keep Believin’” at Endless Flight in 2008.

Tensnake’s first taste of critical acclaim came with the release of “In the End (I Want You to Cry)” EP on the label Running Back in 2009. It was voted number one on djhistory.com’s end-of-the-year list, and was the main driver behind Tensnake’s breakthrough success. The release of “Coma Cat” in 2010 was the defining moment of his career to date. The track entered four charts published by the Official Charts Company, including number 85 on the UK Singles Chart.

In 2014, he released his debut album, “Glow” in collaboration with Fiora, Stuart Price, Jamie Liddell, MNEK, Jeremy Glenn, Gabriel Stebbing (Nightworks) as well as Nile Rodgers.

W Koh Samui, located between Maenam and Bo Phut, is offering a special room package with two complimentary tickets per day for the Backstage Festival 2018, with a 3-day-2-night weekend escape in the Jungle Oasis pool villa going for Bt44,000-plus for two persons. This includes daily breakfast at The Kitchen Table restaurant, roundtrip airport transfers, and one time 90-minute couple spa treatment with traditional Thai massage or aromatherapy massage at Away Spa. It is valid for guests booking their stay during August 2-6 only. For reservations, email reservations.wkohsamui@whotels.com and mention “Backstage Festival Package.”

Tickets for the festival are Bt1,500 for one day, including one complimentary drink. Limited early-bird tickets are now available at Bt700 per ticket per day. To book, visit http://www.eventpop.me or http://go.eventpop.me/BF2018. Complimentary shuttle service is available every 30 minutes from Chaweng area to the hotel.

For more information, call (077) 915 999 or email bf.wkohsamui@whotels.com.

AFTER introducing the magnificent architecture and historical significance of the forgotten Wang Na (The Front Palace) through the digital exhibition “The Architectural Ensemble of Wang Na” at Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, Khun Sirikitiya “Mai” Jensen, the youngest daughter of Princess Ubolratana, has opened a new chapter in her project by tracking the real sites that formerly were part of the Front Palace.

Co-organised by lifestyle website the Cloud, the recent walking tour provided broader insights into the palace that was constructed in 1782, about the same time the Grand Palace was built, and which was one of the very first structures to be erected at the start of the Rattanakosin Era. The site encompasses the land now occupied by Thammasat University, the National Museum Bangkok, the National Theatre, the Bunditpatanasilpa Institute and the northern part of Sanam Luang.

Khun Sirikitiya Jensen, second right, talks about the significant architecture of the Buddhaisawan Throne Hall, seen behind, and other dismantled buildings of the Front Palace.

The Front Palace served as residences for five viceroys and one second King from 1782 to 1885 (the reigns of Kings Rama I to V). The title “the Front Palace” was replaced by that of Crown Prince following the death of viceroy Vichaichan in 1885. Since then, the palace area has been used in part as the Royal Museum (1893-1926) and the Royal Guards’ Camp (1893-1926) while its outer court was demolished to give more space to Sanam Luang.

“Wang Na is not a dead site like the historic cities of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya but integrates the layers of historical context between the old and the modern. Many buildings have been renovated and changed their functions from time to time. The history of Wang Na was also complicated because after the death of a viceroy, the King might not bestow the new occupant immediately. In some cases, this title was vacant for 10 to 20 years,” said Sirikitiya who is an official at the Office of Architecture, Fine Arts Department.

The historical bodies of the Front Palace were reinterpreted into visual language for the digitally engaging exhibition “The Architectural Ensemble of Wang Na” at BACC last month.

To recall the past and recreate old feelings but without force-feeding the information, Sirikitiya assimilated and reinterpreted the historical and textual collection based on the Office of Architecture’s project “The Study of the Front Palace (Wang Na): A Digital Revitalisation of the Palace’s Past”. The interactive exhibition, which wrapped last month, used Google maps, 3D models, maps and moving images on double screens to attract the attention of the young generation.

Sirikitiya also partnered with the website The Standard (thestandrad.co) to run a series on different aspects of the Front Palace as a digital handbook for interested persons. The information, rare pictures and old maps gathered for the project will be uploaded to the project’s website (WangNaProject.space) and will be open for consultation next month. The complete, full-scale version of the project will also be displayed at Issaravinitchai Throne Hall of the National Museum Bangkok in December.

Sirikitiya leads a walking tour to discover the architectural wonders that once formed part of the Front Palace.

For the walking tour, Sirikitiya was joined by noted art historian Santi Leksukhum, Fine Arts Department’s landscape architect Pornthum Thumwimol and Chulalongkorn University’s architecture lecturer Pirasri Povatong to provide different dimensions of the palace to the 70 participants. The pilot route covering Thammasat University, the National Museum Bangkok and the Bunditpatanasilpa Institute is easy to follow and should become popular with history buffs.

Thammasat University

The trip started at Thammasat University’s Tha Phra Chan campus, once part of the palace’s inner zone. At the riverside canteen of the Economics Faculty, visitors can still see the ruins of the base of the city walls built in the reign of King Rama I and which were unearthed in 1997.

Ruins of the city walls 

“The city walls were made of bricks transported from the dismantled Ayutthaya Kingdom. They measured 5.40-metres wide and 2.5-metres high and stretched along the Chao Phrya River. As suggested by its title, Wang Na was situated at the north of the Grand Palace, opposite the mouth of Bangkok Noi Canal and near the city moat. Due to the strategic location, it served as a protector because Burmese invaders usually came from the north,” Pornthum explained. “Wang Na and the Grand Palace were almost equal in size.”

The iconic Dome Building of Thammasat University was built by connecting the military buildings.

The university’s iconic building the Dome was constructed by connecting two military buildings built in the reign of King Rama VI when this area of the Front Palace was turned into the Royal Guards’ Camp. The wall of the university along Phra Chan Road is the only remaining section of the Front Palace’s wall.

The wall of Thammasat University along Phra Chan Road is the only remaining section of the Front Palace’s wall. 

The northern part of Sanam Luang, opposite the university’s auditorium, was formerly part of the Front Palace and it used to house the Phlup Phla Soong (High Pavilion), which King Rama IV ordered to be built in honour of his younger brother King Pinklao, who was dubbed the second King of Siam, so he could observe and inspect military training.

A rare photo of the Phlup Phla Soong was found a few years ago and the Fine Arts Department’s architects translated its structure to a digital format to reveal all its aspects.

A rare photo shows Phlup Phla Soong located at the Front Palace’s eastern wall, which is today the northern part of Sanam Luang. 

A map designed by Kritthapat Cheuntrakul displays the Rattanakosin Island with the former territory of the Front Palace marked in white grid and the site of Phlup Phla Soong highlighted in white .

National Museum Bangkok

The surviving structures of the Front Palace that can still be seen today are mainly located within the site of the National Museum Bangkok, next to Thammasat University. The Buddhaisawan Throne Hall built in 1787 is the most significant building, as it enshrined the scared Phra Buddha Sihing brought from Chiang Mai by Krom Phra Rajawang Bovorn Maha Surasinghanat, the first viceroy of Siam.

The Buddhaisawan Throne Hall in the compound of the National Museum Bangkok houses Phra Buddha Sihing and its murals reflect the characteristic styles of artisans in the third reign.

“The mural in the Buddhaisawan Throne Hall was also a rare gem, evoking the exquisite skills of the artisans in the reigns of Kings Rama I and III,” noted art historian Santi. “The upper parts of the murals depict the gathering of deities while the bottom features the Lord Buddha’s life. The murals painted by artists of King Rama I were created in light hues while the parts created by the artisans of King Rama III were truly delicate in dark palettes of green and reddish-orange.”

The now-demolished Kotchakam Pawet Pavilion was the one and only building in the Front Palace that was built with a prasat-style roof – a style traditionally reserved for the monarchy. 

In front of the Buddhaisawan Throne Hall was the former Kotchakam Pawet Pavilion, which was similar in style to Aphorn Phimok Prasat in the Grand Palace. The prasat-style (tier-spire roof) buildings and the exquisite decoration with gold and glass mosaic were traditionally reserved only for the monarchy and the Kotchakam Pawet Pavilion was the only building in the Front Palace to be built with a prasat-style roof.

King Rama IV constructed this building for his brother King Pinklao as a symbol of equal honour to himself. The wooden pavilion fell into disrepair over the years and all that remains today is the concrete platform once used to climb on elephant back.

The two-storey, Western-style Issaresrajanusorn Throne Hall in the compound of the National Museum Bangkok was formerly the residence of King Pinklao, who was dubbed the second King of Siam during the reign of King Rama IV.

The museum’s compound also houses the two-storey, Western-style Issaresrajanusorn Throne Hall – the residence of King Pinklao. The building has a gable decorated with King Pinklao’s royal emblem – a hairpin surrounded by leaf motifs. The ground floor served as the dwelling place of his servants while the upper floor was sectioned into five rooms for his living quarters –dining, reception, dressing, bedroom and library.

Wat Bovornsatharnsuthavart

Like Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Budha) in the Grand Palace, Wat Bovornsatharnsuthavart – also known as Wat Phra Kaew of Wang Na – has no resident monks nor living quarters. There is only an ubosot-style building (ordination hall) that was built by Krom Phra Rajawang Bovorn Maha Sakdipolsep, the viceroy of King Rama III, but he died in 1832 before its completion. Nearly 20 years later in the reign of King Rama IV, the second monarch King Pinklao had the temple restored.

Wat Bovornsatharnsuthavart, known as Wat Phra Kaew of Wang Na and now in the compound of the Bunditpatanasilpa Institute, boasts the stunning murals painted by artisans in the reign of King Rama IV that depict the legend of the scared Phra Buddha Sihing.

“This hall was built on the higher land of Wang Na – a strategic location overlooking the Chao Phraya River. The structural plan was done in a cross pattern that I have never seen in any ubosot built during the reigns of King Rama I to Rama IV. While most Thai temples mark out sacred ground for the boundary of the ubosot with eight small sema stones, Wat Phra Kaew of Wang Na has none. I can only assume that this building was not built as an ubosot,” Santi told participants.

Oral history would indicate that Krom Phra Rajawang Bovorn Maha Sakdipolsep intended to construct this building with a prasat-style roof but was warned against it by King Rama III, who said it would be inappropriate.

“Take a look at the roof structure, you can see that it was designed to support the prasat-style roof,” Santi continued.

“In the reign of King Rama V, this building was used as Phra Meru Bhimarn (the Royal Crematorium) for Prince Maha Vajirunhis, Siam’s first Crown Prince, rather than building a temporary crematorium that would later be taken apart,” added Pirasri.

The hall’s main standing Buddha image was built by the viceroy of King Rama III. The murals depicting the legend of Phra Buddha Sihing are still in fine condition and show off the characteristic styles of artisans in the fourth reign. King Pinklao wished to relocate Phra Buddha Sihing from the Buddhaisawan Throne Hall to here but passed away before he could do this.

“The painting style was inspired by the Western technique of perspective to create an illusion of space and distance on a two-dimensional surface by playing with the dark and light palettes. To depict the legend of Phra Buddha Sihing that was assumed to have been built in Sri Lanka, the artisans used landscape images of foreign countries as the basis for the painting of the Western-style buildings.”

There are 700,000 free tickets available for both domestic and international flights, though taxes and fees may apply.

Fly from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Krabi, Phuket, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Hai Phong or Da Lat. You can also go from Chiang Mai or Phuket to Ho Chi Minh City.

The airline is also giving away tickets on other routes, such as Vietnam to Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Yangon, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Osaka in Japan, Seoul, Busan and Daegu in South Korea, Kaohsiung, Taipei, Taichung and Tainan in Taiwan, between August 14 and December 31.

The travel period for Nha Trang-Siem Reap starts on September 21. The Hanoi-Osaka route will have daily return flights starting on November 8.

The promotional tickets are available on all sales channels from noon to 2pm Thai time every day. Go to http://www.VietJetAir.com (https://m.VietJetAir.com on a smartphone) or http://www.Facebook.com/vietjetvietnam (click the “Booking” tab).

LOCATED AT THE head of the Mae Sa Watershed in the Mae Sa-Kog Ma Biosphere Reserve – a crucial component of the greater Chiang Mai region water supply – the sleepy mountain town of Pong Krai has traditionally been home to the hilltribe people of Northern Thailand. For decades, the villagers led a largely pastoral life, raising livestock and growing crops for subsistence, until the modern world and consequences of the Vietnam War era encroached upon their traditions, exposing them to the demand for opium. In just a short time, the surrounding region was mostly deforested to accommodate the new cash crop – the poppy. The drastic transformation the village has undergone since is nothing short of remarkable.

Although the term sustainable development is widely used globally, there are few concrete examples of successful projects and their impact on local communities.

Last month in Chiang Mai, Thailand, the 11th Southeast Asian Biosphere Reserves Network (SeaBRnet) Meeting defined sustainability, telling stories and providing practical examples showcasing successful sustainable development initiatives in Unesco Biosphere Reserves throughout the Asia-Pacific region.

Biosphere Reserves are Unesco site designations that aim to foster sustainable use and conservation of natural resources by improving the relationship between humans and their environment. The goal is to find a balance between biodiversity conservation and sustainable human living. This is typically done through ecological research to identify and appropriately use the natural resources available, developing more efficient agricultural practices, and utilising the unique natural environment of an area to promote ecotourism. With 669 Biosphere Reserves in 120 countries, it is becoming increasingly important to share knowledge and lessons learned in the ongoing efforts to improve the livelihoods of communities, reduce dependence on unsustainable practices, and maintain the biodiversity of the surrounding ecological systems – all while retaining local cultural values.

During the conference, delegates from 17 countries were taken on a field trip to visit the Mae Sa-Kog Ma Biosphere Reserve located just outside Chiang Mai. Designated a Biosphere Reserve in 1977, Mae Sa-Kog Ma is a prime example of sustainable development concepts at work and it has long been a key area for hydrological research and watershed management in Thailand. The Biosphere Reserve has a total area of 57,366 hectares and comprises most of Doi Suthep-Pui National Park, along with part of the Oab Khan and Khun Khan National Parks. More than 679 species of vascular plants and 439 species of wild animals can be found within the reserve. It is also home to a population of nearly 40,000 people, including the Northern Thai, Hmong, Karen and Lisu ethnic groups. Diversity, both cultural and genetic, is an important feature of the Biosphere Reserve.

The deforestation that occurred in the area surrounding Pong Krai proved detrimental to the regional watershed and ultimately resulted in severe depletion of groundwater resources. Trees are vital in absorbing water runoff into the soil and groundwater table. This groundwater eventually diffuses across the watershed, supplying freshwater resources for the entire region. The forest also provides a natural filter system, removing pollutants and sediment from the water. Without the trees, runoff torrents are not absorbed, with most of the water flowing downhill over the surface until coming into contact with a river or other open waterway.

It is a well-documented phenomenon demonstrating how the forests are extremely important to local agriculture and play a key role in ensuring irrigation to an estimated US$14 million (Bt458 million) worth of crop production per year in the local area. Recognising the geographical importance of Pong Krai, the Unesco Biosphere Reserve proposed a plan to restore watershed functionality to pre-Vietnam War levels through a reforestation project.

Pong Krai village was highlighted during the SeaBRnet meeting as an example of local community involvement in various sustainable development initiatives. In partnership with Aura Water, a subsidiary of Tipco Foods, and Usaid Leaf, a pilot payment for ecosystem services was launched in Pong Krai Village. Many contemporary environmental science strategies are based on the PES model, which posits that ecosystems such as forests, mountains and wetlands provide a variety of “services” that are economically valuable to humanity. These services can include anything from water filtration and food production to power supply and timber products.

The PES concept involves local communities in restoring and maintaining these important ecosystem services in return for financial incentive. There are multiple benefits to this model. Local residents are able to supplement their earnings by participating in conservation and restoration efforts, while moving away from unsustainable sources of income, and the overall cost of projects is typically far lower than other, manmade interventions such as building water-treatment plants or constructing dams to control river flow.

In addition to the reforestation project, a research and community fundraising enterprise involving an endangered, indigenous species of orchid called Blue Vanda –Fah Mui in Thai – further displays the innovative approaches Pong Krai village has taken to maintain that balance between economic development and nature conservation. The species is highly valued for its sweet smelling, vibrant and impressively large blooms. With the assistance of Mae Sa-Kog Ma Biosphere Reserve, Pong Krai village initiated a Blue Vanda tissue culture research centre that utilises micro-propagation to reintroduce the orchid back into the wild. Micro-propagation is a method of growing plants in a laboratory that involves using a combination of plant tissue and growth hormones to produce large numbers of identical clones from a selected “mother plant”.

Community members trained in the specialised technique also reproduce the plant to sell Blue Vanda take-home kits. For just Bt399, tourists can purchase an orchid propagule neatly packaged in a glass jar and box, along with detailed instructions on how to grow their very own. Proceeds from the “Orchid for Life Project” go to the community, local schools and back into research for continued reproduction of the plant.

The project became so successful, tourists began to inquire about learning the methodology behind Pong Krai’s micro-propagation techniques. In response, the community enterprise organised a Blue Vanda micro-propagation training course in partnership with the nearby Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden Laboratory. For $1,250, guests receive an intensive eight-day certification programme on orchid tissue culture, and the satisfaction in knowing they are contributing to local community conservation efforts.

Pong Krai village is only one example of how sustainable human living and biodiversity conservation can be successfully achieved within Unesco Biosphere Reserves, providing insights that can be applied to other Biosphere Reserves and communities around the world. By committing to ongoing research and understanding of natural systems and the resources they provide, innovative solutions that allow for sustainable development in balance with nature will continue to evolve.

M Wade Million is a Master’s of Sustainable Resource Management student at the Technical University of Munich who is completing an internship in the Natural Sciences Unit at UNESCO Bangkok.

THON BURI is celebrating the 250th anniversary of the year it became Siam’s capital with an invitation to trace the path of its founder, King Taksin the Great. Most of the trail hugs the river, so it’s a wonderful cruise with frequent stops to contemplate history.

Grab a tour boat at the Tha Tien Pier, from which Phra Racha Wang Derm can be glimpsed in the distance. King Taksin had it erected in 1768, signalling his decision to establish his kingdom on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River.

Here he would recreate in layout and architecture the glories of Ayutthaya, the centuries-old capital lost to the invading Burmese. The river and newly dug canals would protect Thon Buri from the same fate.

King Taksin also erected Thon Buri Palace in 1768.

King Taksin’s palace, situated alongside present-day Wichaiprasit Fort, had in its grounds two fine temples, Wat Arun Rajawararam and Wat Molee Lokayaram.

King Rama I ascended to the throne in 1782 and relocated the royal palace to Rattanakosin Island, the beginnings of Bangkok’s elevation as the capital.

Thanks to its strategic location, though, King Taksin’s palace remained a royal residence until the reign of King Chulalongkorn, Rama V, when it was bestowed on the Royal Thai Navy to serve as its headquarters.

The elegant Throne Hall within has been retained, as have the apartments of King Pinklao – Siam’s viceroy under King Rama IV – and a shrine to King Taksin, and the Whale Head Shrine, open to visits by appointment only.

A few minutes upriver is world-famous Wat Arun Rajawararam, whose unforgettable Khmer-style, nine-spire prang has recently undergone a Bt100-million renovation. It was known as Wat Makok when first built, then was renamed Wat Chaeng – the first reference to a “temple of the dawn” – after King Taksin paid a dawn visit to worship among the venerable 16-metre-tall prang.

King Rama II ordered a major restoration and changed the name again, this time to the present Wat Arun Rajawararam. His ashes are interred in the base of Phra Phutthatham Misaratlokdilok – the temple’s large Buddha statue with a beautiful oval face.

King Rama III completed the refurbishing, adding at the entrance a pair of guardian statues of the demons Tosakan and Sahatsadecha.

The ubosot is trimmed with porcelain in pastel hues and flower motifs, plus 144 Chinese stone sculptures of deities, knights and animals. Inside are marvellous murals illustrating scenes from the life of the Buddha and the Vessantara Jakata.

It took nine years to construct the compound from which the 68-metre corncob-shaped prang rises. Inspired by Buddhist cosmology, the assemblage is meant to evoke mythical Mount Meru. From base to pinnacle, the stonework is adorned with seashells, Chinese porcelain, floral tiles and statues of demons and angels ascending to Heaven (or descending from it).

The stunning murals of Wat Arun’s ubosot depict scenes from the Lord Buddha’s life. 

The King Taksin Shrine draws pilgrims with the opportunity to crawl beneath his wooden bed, which dates to 1767, the year Ayutthaya fell. Close proximity to the very place where King Taksin dreamed is said to bring good fortune and protection from harm.

Just a stone’s throw away is Wat Rakang Kositaram Woramahavihan, constructed while Ayutthaya was still enjoying its heyday. King Taksin had it renovated and made it the residence of Supreme Patriarch Sri.

The temple’s classic Rattanakosin-style ubosot with its three-tier roof was built in the reign of King Rama III to enshrine Phra Prathan Yim Rub Fa, a bronze statue of the meditating Buddha. And King Rama VI blanketed the walls with striking murals of angels paying homage.

At the rear of the temple is the original hardwood residence of King Rama I while he was in service during the Thon Buri period. Transformed into a Tripitaka Hall in 1982, it’s filled with antiques, cabinets holding age-old scriptures and murals with episodes from the Ramayana.

Tam Nak Daeng is King Taksin’s residence that was moved from the Thon Buri Palace during the reign of King Rama I. It’s currently being renovated as a showcase for a revered statue of King Taksin and other artefacts.

The Royal Barges National Museum holds eight of the 52 royal barges. 

At the mouth of the Bangkok Noi Canal is the former Royal Barge Procession Dockyard, established under King Taksin and converted into the Royal Barges National Museum in 1974. This is where you can see eight of the beautiful royal barges that have carried all the Chakri kings, topped by the truly magnificent barge Suphannahong.

King Rama V commissioned the building of Suphannahong and the work was completed in 1911, not long after his death. The gilded prow takes the form of a mythical swan and sparkles with mirrored glass. The hull is black on the outside and red on the inside.

Docked alongside, the Narai Song Suban HM King Rama IX Royal Barge is the newest in the fleet. It was built in 1996 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s accession to the throne. Coated with gold lacquer, the prow is a carved depiction of the four-headed god Vishnu riding the Garuda.

Barge oarsmen demonstrate a stroke used only by crews of the four royal barges that carry the King and members of his family.

Ask politely for permission and you might get to visit the Royal Barges division offices and watch the oarsmen actually paddling a barge, singing as they go. Lieutenant Nattawat Aramklua, who has served as cantor in royal barge processions for 37 years, conducts the crews through training both on the land and in the water several months a year. Their strokes have to be perfectly synchronised with his resonant singing.

“We compose new songs for specific occasions,” Natthawat explains. “It takes 1,614 oarsmen to propel a procession of 52 barges, using three basic strokes to speed up and control the direction.

“The crews of the four barges carrying the King and other members of the royal family use a special gesture, raising their oars into the air between each stroke.”

THE PAST ACROSS THE RIVER

>> Phra Racha Wang Derm is on Arun Amarin Road. Admission is Bt100 (Bt50 for students).

>> Tour groups can book a visit through the Phra Racha Wang Derm Restoration Foundation at (02) 475 4117 or http://www.WangdermPalace.org.

>> The Royal Barges National Museum is next to Khlong Bangkok Noi and open daily from 9 to 5. Admission is Bt100.

LOCATED AT THE head of the Mae Sa Watershed in the Mae Sa-Kog Ma Biosphere Reserve – a crucial component of the greater Chiang Mai region water supply – the sleepy mountain town of Pong Krai has traditionally been home to the hilltribe people of Northern Thailand. For decades, the villagers led a largely pastoral life, raising livestock and growing crops for subsistence, until the modern world and consequences of the Vietnam War era encroached upon their traditions, exposing them to the demand for opium. In just a short time, the surrounding region was mostly deforested to accommodate the new cash crop – the poppy. The drastic transformation the village has undergone since is nothing short of remarkable.

Although the term sustainable development is widely used globally, there are few concrete examples of successful projects and their impact on local communities.

Last month in Chiang Mai, Thailand, the 11th Southeast Asian Biosphere Reserves Network (SeaBRnet) Meeting defined sustainability, telling stories and providing practical examples showcasing successful sustainable development initiatives in Unesco Biosphere Reserves throughout the Asia-Pacific region.

Biosphere Reserves are Unesco site designations that aim to foster sustainable use and conservation of natural resources by improving the relationship between humans and their environment. The goal is to find a balance between biodiversity conservation and sustainable human living. This is typically done through ecological research to identify and appropriately use the natural resources available, developing more efficient agricultural practices, and utilising the unique natural environment of an area to promote ecotourism. With 669 Biosphere Reserves in 120 countries, it is becoming increasingly important to share knowledge and lessons learned in the ongoing efforts to improve the livelihoods of communities, reduce dependence on unsustainable practices, and maintain the biodiversity of the surrounding ecological systems – all while retaining local cultural values.

During the conference, delegates from 17 countries were taken on a field trip to visit the Mae Sa-Kog Ma Biosphere Reserve located just outside Chiang Mai. Designated a Biosphere Reserve in 1977, Mae Sa-Kog Ma is a prime example of sustainable development concepts at work and it has long been a key area for hydrological research and watershed management in Thailand. The Biosphere Reserve has a total area of 57,366 hectares and comprises most of Doi Suthep-Pui National Park, along with part of the Oab Khan and Khun Khan National Parks. More than 679 species of vascular plants and 439 species of wild animals can be found within the reserve. It is also home to a population of nearly 40,000 people, including the Northern Thai, Hmong, Karen and Lisu ethnic groups. Diversity, both cultural and genetic, is an important feature of the Biosphere Reserve.

The deforestation that occurred in the area surrounding Pong Krai proved detrimental to the regional watershed and ultimately resulted in severe depletion of groundwater resources. Trees are vital in absorbing water runoff into the soil and groundwater table. This groundwater eventually diffuses across the watershed, supplying freshwater resources for the entire region. The forest also provides a natural filter system, removing pollutants and sediment from the water. Without the trees, runoff torrents are not absorbed, with most of the water flowing downhill over the surface until coming into contact with a river or other open waterway.

It is a well-documented phenomenon demonstrating how the forests are extremely important to local agriculture and play a key role in ensuring irrigation to an estimated US$14 million (Bt458 million) worth of crop production per year in the local area. Recognising the geographical importance of Pong Krai, the Unesco Biosphere Reserve proposed a plan to restore watershed functionality to pre-Vietnam War levels through a reforestation project.

Pong Krai village was highlighted during the SeaBRnet meeting as an example of local community involvement in various sustainable development initiatives. In partnership with Aura Water, a subsidiary of Tipco Foods, and Usaid Leaf, a pilot payment for ecosystem services was launched in Pong Krai Village. Many contemporary environmental science strategies are based on the PES model, which posits that ecosystems such as forests, mountains and wetlands provide a variety of “services” that are economically valuable to humanity. These services can include anything from water filtration and food production to power supply and timber products.

The PES concept involves local communities in restoring and maintaining these important ecosystem services in return for financial incentive. There are multiple benefits to this model. Local residents are able to supplement their earnings by participating in conservation and restoration efforts, while moving away from unsustainable sources of income, and the overall cost of projects is typically far lower than other, manmade interventions such as building water-treatment plants or constructing dams to control river flow.

In addition to the reforestation project, a research and community fundraising enterprise involving an endangered, indigenous species of orchid called Blue Vanda –Fah Mui in Thai – further displays the innovative approaches Pong Krai village has taken to maintain that balance between economic development and nature conservation. The species is highly valued for its sweet smelling, vibrant and impressively large blooms. With the assistance of Mae Sa-Kog Ma Biosphere Reserve, Pong Krai village initiated a Blue Vanda tissue culture research centre that utilises micro-propagation to reintroduce the orchid back into the wild. Micro-propagation is a method of growing plants in a laboratory that involves using a combination of plant tissue and growth hormones to produce large numbers of identical clones from a selected “mother plant”.

Community members trained in the specialised technique also reproduce the plant to sell Blue Vanda take-home kits. For just Bt399, tourists can purchase an orchid propagule neatly packaged in a glass jar and box, along with detailed instructions on how to grow their very own. Proceeds from the “Orchid for Life Project” go to the community, local schools and back into research for continued reproduction of the plant.

The project became so successful, tourists began to inquire about learning the methodology behind Pong Krai’s micro-propagation techniques. In response, the community enterprise organised a Blue Vanda micro-propagation training course in partnership with the nearby Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden Laboratory. For $1,250, guests receive an intensive eight-day certification programme on orchid tissue culture, and the satisfaction in knowing they are contributing to local community conservation efforts.

Pong Krai village is only one example of how sustainable human living and biodiversity conservation can be successfully achieved within Unesco Biosphere Reserves, providing insights that can be applied to other Biosphere Reserves and communities around the world. By committing to ongoing research and understanding of natural systems and the resources they provide, innovative solutions that allow for sustainable development in balance with nature will continue to evolve.

M Wade Million is a Master’s of Sustainable Resource Management student at the Technical University of Munich who is completing an internship in the Natural Sciences Unit at UNESCO Bangkok.

ONCE THE leading – not to mention tallest – hotel in Thailand’s capital, the Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel has always been a venue of choice among the Thai elite for fine dining, entertainment and wedding receptions.

Famous for its illustrious design and five-star Thai-style hospitality services, over the years it has become a home away from home for such travelling celebrities as Rod Stewart, Whitney Houston, Jackie Chan, the Pet Shop Boys, Johnny Tillotson, Tom Jones, Gwyneth Paltrow, Coldplay, Got 7, Rain and Super Junior.

A hexagonal swimming pool is located alongside the artificial waterfall, making it a popular recreational spot for guests 

Now the hotel in its present incarnation will close its doors on January 5 next year to make way for a Bt36.7 billion mixed-use project being developed in collaboration with Central Pattana, which will feature residences, retail areas and office space, as well as Mark II of the hotel.

As might be expected, the closure is bringing sadness to its loyal customers, among them Chantana Kunjan, who has stayed there every couple of months during her trips back home.

“Since 1992, I have stayed at the Dusit Thani every time I have come back to visit my family. The prime location near BTS and MRT stations makes it very convenient for me to get around,” she says.

“Staff members here are friendly and hands-on while the room is always comfortable and clean. I’m sad that the hotel will close. Now I’ve got no idea where I can stay and feel as much as home as I did in the Dusit Thani.”

British trader James Simpson, who spends most of his holidays in Bangkok, says he was stunned to hear the news.

“I come to Thailand three or four times every year and I’ve often stayed at Dusit Thani, sometimes for two or three weeks. With its good location and modern facilities, I’ve always found it super convenient and comfortable. During the day I enjoy spa treatments and the Dusit itself has a wonderful calming effect on me. I’m sad that such an iconic Bangkok landmark is closing.

The Napalai Ballroom was once a popular venue for fashion shows, concerts and weddings.  

The Dusit Thani’s history began in February 1970 when Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui teamed up with Thai-Obayashi Corp and spent the next three years building the luxury 23-floor hotel. Her aim was to elevate the Thai hotel chain to international standards – and it became Bangkok’s tallest edifice and landmark.

“Thanpuying Chanut studied in the US and travelled a lot. When she returned to Bangkok, she founded Dusit International in 1948 by opening the Princess Hotel on Charoen Krung Road. In 1970, the company expanded to Silom’s business district with the flagship hotel Dusit Thani Bangkok,” says Pongsiya Kittikachorn, director of marketing communications.

“This land belongs to the Crown Property Bureau and once housed Chao Phraya Yommarat’s family and the Old England Student Association under Royal Patronage.”

Located at the corner of Silom and Rama IV roads, its exterior designs take inspiration from Wat Arun’s prangs and its name is borrowed from the miniature city, which was created by King Vajiravudh to refer to the fourth heaven.

“There was no spa and well-equipped fitness centre when we first opened. In the past, we defined a luxury five-star hotel through opulent designs, a swimming pool, doormen wearing elaborate Thai costumes and polite staff members,” Pongsiya says.

The hotel was once home to the biggest one-bedroom suites in town, called Thai Heritage. Each occupying more than 80 square metres, they came in four themes – Lanna, Sukhothai, Lopburi and Ayutthaya.

The Thai Heritage Suite offered the largest luxury accommodation in town. 

Designed for elegance and maximum convenience, each has a vintage bathtub and spacious living space complete with premium amenities and beautiful furniture upholstered in Jim Thompson’s top-quality silk.

In 1977, the hotel opened the high-end discotheque Bubbles which was influenced by John Travolta’s hit movie “Saturday Night Fever”. Every night, its glittering glass floor was crowded with stars like Ornapa “Ma” Krisadee and Chanana Nutakom, while a group of international DJs manned the decks until 3am.

The rooftop was turned into a popular fine-dining restaurant called Tiara serving a selection of traditional western delicacies. Famous for its classy vibes, Tiara doubled as a cabaret venue, bringing in acclaimed artists like Francis Yip and Stevie Wonder to perform their hits. Its stage can also take a bow for pioneering Tiffany Show’s lip-sync acts.

On the ground floor, the Chinese restaurant Mayflower was favoured by politicians and their families. Among the most popular menu items were crispy pumpkin julienne coated with golden egg yolk, barbecued Peking duck, fried custard and salted egg buns and scallop dumplings.

The Chinese restaurant Mayflower has long been a popular dining spot for politicians and their families. 

“Our Napalai Ballroom changed the format of the wedding reception, as hi-so families decided to take advantage of the full facilities in the luxury hotel rather than go to a restaurant. Fashion designers turned the ballroom into a chic runway and singers like Nantida Kaewbuasai and Phumphuang Duangjan held their concerts here,” Pongsiya adds.

The new huge mixed-use project will expand the plot from 19 to 23 rai During the construction, some staff members will be rotated to other properties and some restaurants and bakeries will open stand-alone outlets so that loyal customers can continue to enjoy their favourite dishes.

Busaba Sattabun, guest relations manager, speaks fondly of her career with the hotel.

“I started working here in 1990 as the hostess at Hamilton Steakhouse. The senior team trained us in how to greet customers and introduce the menu. We had to notice what guests liked and record all details in a personal notebook. I later moved to the guest relations department as I wanted to improve my English. I was trained for two months in writing messages on greeting cards and how to treat VIP guests,” Busaba says.

Guest relations manager Busaba Sattabun has worked at Dusit Thani since 1990.

“This is like my home. I will retire next year and I want to work until the last day. The owners never left us or let us down even during bad situations like the red and yellow shirt protests and floods. That’s why I love it here,” she says with tears in her eyes.

These days, the hotel offers 517 elegant guestrooms and suites ranging in floor area from 35 to 240sqm. All are decorated with teak furniture and silk. The Nation recently spent a night in the luxurious Princess Suite and really appreciated the Thai vintage ambience. Very comfortable and exactly the right size for a family, the 140sqm suite has two bedrooms, a living room and dining space adorned with refined wood and silk.

The master bedroom has a comfy king-size bed, a vanity area with a giant wardrobe and a bathroom that looks like a Thai pavilion. The vintage bathtub is perfect for a long and luxurious soak using the top-of-the-range amenities while the separate shower is just right for a morning wake-me-up.

The Princess Suite’s colonial design is enhanced by rich teak and silk furnishings.

The smaller bedroom has two single beds, a working area and walk-in closet and an en-suite bathroom with a bathtub, toilet and wash basin. Both rooms overlook Lumpini Park and offer a great view of the Bangkok skyline.

The spacious living room is well furnished with a desk, bookshelf and smart TV, but it’s the dining room that captured our heart with its six-seat dining table, pantry, welcome fruit and minibar with coffee machines, and a painting portraying a colonial-style house in a lush garden.

And while it will be sad to say goodbye to this grand old dame, the hotel is making the most of its remaining days by offering a range of special promotions on both food and accommodation.

The airline has flown Bangkok to Samui International Airport, return, twice a day in a Boeing 737 carrying up to 149 passengers after negotiating a contract with Bangkok Airways in 2008.

The private airport on Koh Samui was built by Bangkok Airways in 1989 and has been managed by that airline ever since.

When THAI began flying the route, the national airline said it would be convenient for travellers flying through Bangkok on Thai Airways to transfer to a TG flight to the island through the one airline.

It was also considered a breakthrough at the time, ending a monopoly for the Bangkok-Samui flights sector. Bangkok Airways dominates the route, offering around 19 flights daily each way. Thai Airways feels it is justified in cancelling the service this September following the signing of a codeshare agreement with Bangkok Airways last year.

The airline can ticket its European or Asian passengers through to Samui on any of the daily Bangkok Airways flights at agreed fares that are competitive for TG to resell.

The resulting monopoly for Bangkok Airways means that flights could cost up to more than double that of routes of a similar distance around the region.

Samui Island’s airport was developed as the country’s first privately owned airport but has faced constant criticism from hoteliers on the island who claimed Bangkok Airways made it difficult for competitors to serve the island.

At one point the government threatened to build a second airport on the island but land appropriation costs were too high. However, the tactic did result in THAI gaining landing rights for two flights per day.

According to Airlineroute’s timetable information, Thai Airways will on September 2 end its TG281 service departing Bangkok at 7.45am, and TG287 departing Bangkok at 3.30pm.

Phichit – a lush and green province in the lower north of Thailand that’s known for its captivating legends, interesting culture and long history – is bringing an old town in Wang Krod sub-district back to life and promoting it as a travel destination.

“Phichit is a small city with a lot of temples, It’s quiet, not crowded with tourists and has a lot of charm,” says the provincial governor Verasak Vichitsangsri.

“Visitors can offer alms to the monks at Kampaeng Haeng Kwam Phakdi or the Wall of Loyalty on Bussaba Road in front of the old Phichit Provincial Hall, which is painted with 84 portraits of the late King Rama IX. The murals were painted by locals to express their sincere gratitude for the King’s hard work for his people during his reign. After the alms offering, they can visit Nad Nee Puea Nong Market, which was built up by a group of students who grew and produced food for sale. Before I became Phichit’s governor, this market didn’t have cooked foods and desserts but now it does. It also offers organic agricultural goods at affordable prices,” he adds.

After assuming his position in 2016, one of the first tasks the governor undertook was to fill Bueng Si Fai Lake. Water levels had reduced considerably following almost four years of drought but now it is third largest lake in Thailand and welcomes pilgrims from far and wide during Loy Kratong. It also boasts a statue of a giant crocodile that’s six metres wide, five metres high and more than 38 metres long representing Chalawan from the Thai folklore “Krai Thong.”

Verasak is also planning to build a bicycle lane around the lake and has set aside Bt65 million for the purpose.

Another of his initiatives has seen the conversion of a former landfill site for waste disposal and a slum near Phichit Railway Station into a market. This officially opened at the end of January close to a building that dates back to the reign of King Rama V and which has undergone a thorough cleaning. And work is currently proceeding on the construction of a wooden skywalk from one giant monkey pod tree to another.

“Right now, I am working on a campaign that will promote Phichit as a tourist destination throughout the year. From June to August, we mark the ‘Dok Krachiao Yak’ Festival that celebrates the blooming of Siam tulips in the Baan Khao Lon community. Our dok krachiao yak are much larger than the ones that grow wild in Chaiyaphum. The villages traditionally ate the stalks with nam phrik, the spicy, chilli-based sauce typical of Thai cuisine,” says Verasak.

I take the governor’s advice and take a walk through Nad Nee Puea Nong market, admiring the organic produce as well as such delightful snacks as Mahachanok mango, the traditional Thai sweets khanom kong and look choup, and the crispy rice noodles known as mee krob. Old-fashioned coffee is also available and the sweet milky nectar is welcome on this early morning.

Refreshed and awake, I catch the train to the old town of Wang Krod. It’s only six kilometres from downtown Phichit but I can’t resist embarking on this rail journey that takes no time at all and costs a mere Bt2.

“The Wang Krod community is more than 100 years old and in its heyday boasted some 200 to 300 barns around the Luang Prathuang Khadee Building, as well as two mills,” says Traisit Rhiandamrongporn, mayor of Wang Krod Municipality.

“The bend in the Nan river here looks just like the belly of a dragon. Its head is at Wat Bueng Takon and its tail is at Kha Mang sub-district. The Mon boats used to moor at the pier and the paddy was then transported to the mills. That’s why this community had so many barns in former times. Today, of course, they have all gone.

“When public transport came to Wang Krod, the young people relocated to other provinces to find work and left the elderly behind. Wang Krod became quiet. Later, Wang Krod Sub-district Municipal Office and the Wang Krod Conservation Community joined up to bring it back to life and turn it into a tourist destination. We seem to have succeeded too as Wang Krod has managed to retain its charming two-storey wooden houses and the locals still live much the same way as they did decades ago.”

Stopping outside an old house, Traisit tells me that it used to be a popular place for khao man gai [chicken rice] prepared in Hainan style.

“In the old days, Phichit people would pay one salueng [dime] to catch the ferry to this house. The people of Wang Krod are mainly Chinese – 90 per cent Chaozhou and 10 per cent Hainan. This municipality has 700 households and there are also 200 households in Wang Krod proper. Nowadays, Wang Krod is part of the tourism drive in Phichit and we have visitors staying, which helps generate more income for the residents. Otherwise, the main income comes from rice.”

I walk to Wang Krod market from the Clock Tower in front of the railway station and find myself surrounded by old-fashioned two-storey wooden houses. Some are now serving as museums, another has been converted into a tourism information centre and lots of them offer food like kuaytiew pinto (noodles in a tiffin) and sago sai moo. Other signature foods are phad thai hor bai bua (phad thai wrapped with lotus leaf), moo satay (pork satay), which was traditionally sold at performances of Chinese opera, kaeng khee lek (Siamese cassia curry), kaeng yuak kuay (banana curry), khanom phak kad (fried radish cake), and Thai traditional coffee, which amazingly costs a mere Bt6.

Leaving the market, I visit the Wang Klom Shrine, one of the important historical landmarks of the area and admire the vintage architecture. Continuing along the river, I stop at Baan Luang Prathuang Khadee, a European-style building that is now a museum displaying the old way of life of Wang Krod of the past. Luang Prathuang Khadee, I read, was the first mayor of Phichit during the reign of King Rama VI.

“Today, people of Wang Krod community don’t sell their products for profit but out of pride,” says Traisit. “As the governor says, ‘money isn’t the most important thing in life; pride is how we can preserve our charming identities.”