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Edith Bolling Galt met Woodrow Wilson at the White House in March 1915, about seven months after the death of his first wife. They married on Dec. 18, 1915. Their whirlwind courtship and marriage shocked Washington, but Edith Wilson nonetheless threw herself into the demands of the White House. She was a very unconventional first lady for the time, young and fashionable and quite willing to be seen in public.

“She was kind of the Jackie Kennedy of her generation,” said Debbie Wilkerson, education coordinator at the Edith Bolling Wilson Birthplace Museum on Wytheville’s busy East Main Street.

Edith Wilson was born in Wytheville in 1872, in the upstairs apartment of what is to this day a commercial building. A restaurant, a boutique and the small museum where my wife, Carol, and I began our visit are on the ground floor. Upstairs, the Bolling family apartment is open for tours. Most of the artifacts and photographs in the museum were donated by the Bolling family and span Edith Wilson’s life from her childhood and first marriage through the White House years. The seventh child in a crowded household that included 11 children as well as parents, grandparents and myriad relatives, she received rigorous home schooling from her grandmother and parents, but only two years of formal education.

The Bolling family Bible notes family events, including Edith’s birth and her two marriages. Upholstered Victorian chairs, a tea set, a crib, and chinaware suggest a comfortable but not luxurious lifestyle. A photograph of somber, 3-year-old Edith wearing her brother’s hand-me-down pants reveals the family’s frugality.

Display items dating from the White House years include the watch worn by Woodrow Wilson during the Paris Peace Conference after World War I and the Red Cross cap she wore as a volunteer serving meals to U.S. troops at the Union Station canteen. On one of the family tables is a copy of her “White House Cook Book.”

In the second-floor lodgings where Edith Wilson was born, we heard an audio description of her childhood in the first lady’s own words. Today, the apartment shows years of neglect. The museum is undertaking a long-term restoration project that aims to re-create the apartment’s appearance at the turn of the century. Though it is mostly empty, we got a sense of the layout – a warren of rooms, some of which still have their original wallpaper and flooring.

During her childhood, Edith was caregiver to a demanding, invalid grandmother, Ann Bolling, tending to her throughout the day, even sleeping in her room at night. Every day she washed, starched and ironed a snow-white cap, an essential part of her grandmother’s attire. A family photograph on the back porch shows Grandmother Bolling wearing one of her caps, with Edith sitting dutifully at her feet.

Grandmother Bolling took great delight in the two dozen canaries kept in 16 bird cages on the upstairs back porch. The cages demanded daily cleaning, another of Edith’s chores, performed under the withering scrutiny of her grandmother. For Edith this was a most unpleasant task. A photograph of 13-year-old Edith sitting wistfully next to the cages perfectly captures her mood. She later wrote in her memoirs that she took an odd pleasure in conducting funerals when the little creatures passed away.

But life wasn’t all work. In the kitchen, Edith remembers her Grandmother Logwood’s Christmas coconut balls and her pralines with pecan nuts and brown sugar. Happy times were spent in the parlor where the family would play games or listen to her father read aloud from Shakespeare or Dickens.

Edith Bolling left Wytheville in 1890 at age 18 and married Norman Galt, a Washington jeweler, six years later. As a young woman, she blazed her own trail, traveling to Europe frequently, and becoming the first woman issued a license to drive an electric car in the District of Columbia. (Her 1904 license is now on display at the museum.) The Galts lived comfortably until his death 12 years after their marriage; the couple had no surviving children.

From the start, President Wilson shared everything with his new wife, including classified information and official secrets; he consulted her in matters political and governmental. She even encoded his private messages before they were dispatched. But it is the years after President Wilson’s debilitating stroke in October 1919 for which she is most remembered – and criticized. The president never fully recovered, becoming a virtual recluse and she his gatekeeper and caretaker, a role harking back to her years with Grandmother Bolling.

Rarely leaving his side, she determined which papers and other material received the president’s attention. She decreed who saw him, including the Cabinet. In her memoirs, she called this period the “stewardship” of the presidency, a stewardship that lasted until the end of Wilson’s term in March 1921 – 17 months! Edith Wilson said she didn’t make any decisions on policy. “The only decision that was mine was what was important and what was not,” she wrote in her memoirs.

Edith Wilson lived a long life, surviving Woodrow Wilson by 37 years at their post-presidential home at 2340 S St. NW. One year before her death in 1961, the former first lady, by then the sole survivor of her 10 siblings, made her final visit to Wytheville.

She had come to town to donate a stained-glass window to the St. John’s Episcopal Church where she was baptized, confirmed and first married. She stayed at the hotel across the street, which still stands (and where we, too, stayed the night before) and then ate at the restaurant that occupied the space that is now the museum. Before leaving Wytheville forever, she made a final tour of her childhood home.

We visited the church, lined on both walls with gorgeous stained glass. Edith’s gift, “Blessing the Children,” is still there in vivid color. The local girl made good, but didn’t forget her hometown.

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But things heated up in 1935 with the release of a guidebook titled “Lyon, Capitale Mondiale de la Gastronomie,” penned by esteemed food critic Curnonsky with writer Marcel-Etienne Grancher. As famous for his poetic culinary musings as for his colossal appetite, Curnonsky (alias the Prince of Gastronomes) was one of the first writers to espouse the concept of culinary tourism.

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So when I heard last year that Lyon was opening a so-called Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, I climbed the ladder of my home library to seek the old guidebook. Six restaurants remained; a visit felt timely. I would hit each spot, discover the new Cité and consult a food historian: Could Lyon circa 2019 still claim the title of World Capital of Gastronomy?

– Brasserie Georges

“Curnonsky?” asked the maitre d’. “Table six!”

No Muzak here, only the happy chimes of silverware as I cruised along the immense art deco dining room, zigzagging between red moleskin banquettes and long tables covered with starched white tablecloths. Above my head, steel-and-glass chandeliers heralded the stylized ceiling fresco. And there it was – his name engraved on a copper plaque at table six.

Taking my cues from Curnonsky’s guidebook, I ordered the Incomparable gratinée and a brown, fatty choucroute escorted by ham, sausages and boiled potatoes. The gratinée, an exquisite onion soup, was thickened at the table with an egg yolk stirred in Madeira wine. Lightly acidic, the sauerkraut balanced the sweetness of the soup, while the plump meats yielded salty deliciousness.

– La Mère Brazier

As Lyon’s silk industry collapsed in the 1900s, bourgeois laid off their cooks. Finding themselves jobless, several women founded their own eateries and became known as Les Mères (the Mothers). In 1933, La Mère Brazier was the first woman to be anointed by the Michelin guide: three Michelin stars for each of her two restaurants!

Since 2008, Chef Mathieu Viannay has led her downtown historical restaurant, and while she remains his inspiration, the authentic but modernized interior, as well as his inventive variations on her recipes – and his two stars – are clearly his own. Describing her cuisine, Curnonsky mentioned simple perfection. Dare I say that Viannay’s 12th version of her foie gras terrine and artichoke heart came close? How long until his third star?

– Bouchon-Comptoir Brunet

The Brunet family is long gone, but current owners Xavier Beyrieux and Benjamin Baldassini are passionate about Lyon’s culinary legacy.

“For us,” said Beyrieux, “acquiring a 1934 bistro only makes sense if we keep everything as close to the original as possible.”

They kept the name, the original checkered floor tiles, similar marble tables and wooden chairs. The old bar collapsed, but the new one is its honorable heir. The menu still features tripe, sauce gribiche and cow’s udder with garlic, but Curnonsky called the escargots “a splendor.” Indeed, snails bathed in bubbly caramelized parsley butter tasted splendid.

– Léon de Lyon

Standing proud since 1904 on a downtown street corner and named for its founder, Léon Déan – a king of cooks, wrote Curnonsky – this elegant wood-paneled space was recently revamped and now features a casual bistro, a gastronomic restaurant and a cozy contemporary bar. A collection of classic paintings depict kitchen scenes and set the stage for chef Olivier Bourrat’s Lyonnais cuisine.

I was dying to experience the sum of gastronomical pleasures described by Curnonsky, but it was too early for liquor souffle. Instead, I savored another local favorite, the earthy pâté en croûte, a mosaic of chicken, veal, sweetbreads, pork and foie gras encased in a savory crust as crumbly and buttery as a shortbread.

– Brasserie Le Nord

A model of good taste and practical sense, said my guidebook about the decor (red painted walls, stone arches and mosaic tiles still hold). This bustling brasserie, part of the late Paul Bocuse’s empire, still churns out famous Lyonnais specialties among a pell-mell menu featuring linguine with mussels and Serrano ham.

Curnonsky mentioned the famous choucroute du Nord, but I opted for the massive saucisson pistaché, two hefty slices of pinkish saucisson studded with pistachios and stuffed into a delicious brioche.

– Le Passage

“Curnonsky who?” asked the young chef of Le Passage, a gorgeous bistro hidden within a traboule, the typical Lyonnais covered passageway between two streets. My guidebook referred only to a smart wine list, but the young owners were thrilled to see their locale mentioned in a 1935 book. No history buff here, but a solid contemporary menu and a modern cocktail selection at the theatrical bar.

– Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie

Once UNESCO inscribed the French gastronomic meal on its intangible cultural heritage list in 2010, France was required to create ways to safeguard that concept. Several cities broached the idea of institutions dedicated to gastronomy. Four won the golden ticket, each with a specific theme, and Lyon is the first to open. Dijon, Tours and Paris-Rungis will follow.

“It’s not a museum nor a restaurant,” said director Florent Bonnetain. “It’s an interactive cultural space focused on food and health, for gourmands of all ages.”

The Cité, 43,000 square feet of exhibit space over four stories, is housed within the renovated 12th-century Hotel-Dieu – once a monumental hospital, today a stunning complex – comprising a five-star hotel, restaurants, offices and shops. Whether a visitor follows their nose directly to the working kitchen or digs into the culinary personalities who marked the city – Bocuse’s old stove-top is there, Mère Brazier’s towering pots and even a cardboard Curnonsky – the center celebrates culinary culture.

Everywhere I went in Lyon, people were eating. Besides the historical joints, the city brimmed with new eateries, sumptuous pastry shops and busy wine bars. Finally, I asked Bonnetain if Lyon could claim the world title.

“There are many gastronomies today,” he said. “Lyon may not be the world capital, but it remains a capital, a center of French, Lyonnais cuisine.”

“Does Curnonsky still matter?” I asked culinary historian Yves Rouèche.

“He put Lyon on the map in 1935,” he answered, “but it was Paul Bocuse who promoted Lyon internationally. Now that he’s gone, the question is: Who will pick up the baton?”

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IF YOU GO:

WHERE TO STAY

– Le Royal Lyon Hotel

20 Place Bellecour

011-33-4-78-37-57-31

lyonhotel-leroyal.com/en/home.html

Facing Bellecour Square, one of the largest pedestrian squares in Europe, the Royal features regal luxury in the very center of town. Students from the Paul Bocuse Institute, a top hospitality school, spend time in each department as part of their internship and bring candid, friendly service. Rooms from about $200 per night.

– Collège Hotel

5 Place Saint-Paul

011-33-4-72-10-05-05

college-hotel.com

In the heart of old town, this fun property revisits with humor the theme of an old-fashioned French school. Comfortable and design-centric, the rooms are on the small side, though some feature balconies, and the library serves as a wonderful hangout. Rooms from about $133 per night.

WHERE TO EAT

– Brasserie Georges

30 Cours de Verdun

011-33-4-72-56-54-54

brasseriegeorges.com/en

Near the Perrache train station stands this epitome of a French brasserie, founded in 1899. Lyon has changed and grown around it, but the beer is still homemade and satisfying, the choucroute is still the best in town, and the room still packs celebrities, locals and travelers. Open weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. and weekends until 12:15 a.m. Entrees from about $21.

– La Mère Brazier

12 Rue Royale

011-33-4-78-23-17-20

lamerebrazier.fr

Chef Mathieu Viannay has revived the old haunt of La Mère Brazier, the first woman to receive three Michelin stars for each of her restaurants. Classics such as the artichoke and foie gras terrine or roasted venison are revisited and enhanced. This historical institution, a worthwhile splurge, has become my favorite table in Lyon. Open Monday to Friday noon to 1:15 p.m. for lunch, 7:45 to 9 p.m. for dinner. Entrees from about $62.

– Bouchon-Comptoir Brunet

23 Rue Claudia

011-33-4-78-37-44-31

bouchonlyonnaisbrunet.fr/en

The small, bustling bistro in downtown Lyon specializes in simple Lyonnais dishes including offal, stews and goat cheese beignet. The wine list features numerous options by the glass and offers great value for local crus. Open weekdays except Tuesday noon to 2 p.m. and 7 to 9:30 p.m.; weekends noon to 2:30 p.m. and 6:30 to 10 p.m. Entrees from about $17.

– Léon de Lyon

1 Rue Pleney

011-33-4-72-10-11-12

leondelyon.com/fr

A historical restaurant revisited by a young team, Léon now features a gastronomic dining room and a casual cafe and bar within the old space. From bubbling marrow bones to delicate roasted pollock served with cockles, traditional French specialties are the focus here. Open daily noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 11 p.m. Entrees from about $18.

– Brasserie Le Nord

18 Rue Neuve

011-33-4-72-10-69-69

brasseries-bocuse.com/en

One of Paul Bocuse’s brasseries, this busy spot caters mostly to a business crowd in search of a solid, no-fuss menu. Traditional local dishes share the spotlight with fusion-style specialties including sashimi, jamon Iberico and classic pasta. Open daily noon to 2 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays until 11 p.m. Entrees from about $18.

– Le Passage

8 Rue du Platre

011-33-4-78-28-11-16

le-passage.com

Hidden in a traboule, a typical Lyonnais passageway between two buildings, tThis hip establishment is divided into a fine-dining room, a bar and two private salons including a cigar lounge. On the menu: steak tartare, veal sweetbreads, fillets of bass and a lively cocktail list. Open Tuesday to Saturday noon to 1:30 p.m. and 7:30 to 9:30 p.m. Entrees from about $21.

WHAT TO DO

– Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie

4 Grand Cloitre du Grand Hotel-Dieu

citegastronomielyon.fr/en

Nestled within the monumental renovation of the 12th-century Hotel-Dieu, a former hospital, this interactive museum dedicated to food, gastronomy and health occupies four floors. Cooks and chefs work all day in the demo kitchen and produce interesting bites for tastings. The exhibits are open daily 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and until 10 p.m. on Saturday. Tickets and tasting about $27, adult tickets about $13, ages 5 to 15 about $9, children under 5 free.

INFORMATION

– en.lyon-france.com

Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, tops the list of 31 destinations listed on the company’s guide titled “Backpacker Index — the Cheapest Cities to Visit in Asia”.

Also in Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City, and Hoi An in the central province of Quang Nam, feature on the list, coming in third and sixth respectively.

Alpha Travel Insurance surveyed popular backpacking destinations and assessed them based on the cost per day for a hotel, two transport rides, three budget meals, drinks, and the fee to visit one attraction in the city.

On average, a visitor spends US$18.66 (Bt560) a day in Hanoi, $19.30 in Vientiane and $19.86 in Ho Chi Minh City.

Yangon in Myanmar and Pokhara in Nepal come in fourth and fifth, with a backpacker spending $20.50 and $20.63 on average a day respectively.

Chiang Mai in Thailand comes in seventh followed by New Delhi in India, Phnom Penh in Cambodia and Colombo in Sri Lanka respectively. Luang Prabang, Laos’ most popular World Heritage Site, is ranked 13th.

Cost is likely to be a factor in decision-making when one is planning to go backpacking in Asian cities, Alpha Travel Insurance said on its website.

The price of each category is not always the cheapest in the best performing country on the list.

Bangkok offers the cheapest prices for a meal, while Siem Reap in Cambodia has the most reasonable accommodation price.

Japanese capital Tokyo is named the most expensive among the 31 cities, with a backpacker spending about $74 per day on average.

China’s Macau and Hong Kong are named the second and third most expensive cities with visitors spending $68.97 and $62.97 per day. Singapore is the fourth most expensive with backpackers likely to spend $56.92 per day on average.