Tribute to the Hilltribes

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EXHIBITION

Her Majesty the Queen and her Support Foundation continue to provide financial and other assistance to hilltribe weavers and craftspeople, encouraging them to keep alive traditions that produce particularly fine textiles

Her Majesty the Queen and her Support Foundation continue to provide financial and other assistance to hilltribe weavers and craftspeople, encouraging them to keep alive traditions that produce particularly fine textiles

Hmong apparel typically utilises black fabric adorned with applique or embroidery.

Hmong apparel typically utilises black fabric adorned with applique or embroidery.

he Yao are known for their distinctive black top over a long tunic trimmed with red yarn ruffs at the collar and edges. They wear embroidered turbans as well.

he Yao are known for their distinctive black top over a long tunic trimmed with red yarn ruffs at the collar and edges. They wear embroidered turbans as well.

The Lahu

The Lahu

6

Like life-giving streams flowing South, Northern craftspeople replenish the national heritage

THE STORY has often been told of Her Majesty the Queen’s first encounter with the ethnic hilltribes of the Thai North five decades ago, and how she was immediately enamoured of their intricately woven traditional clothing and colourful ornamentation.

She saw too how the hill people struggled in their daily lives, and soon after welcomed them into the arms of the Foundation of the Promotion or Supplementary Occupation and Related Techniques, or the Support Foundation she’d established in the Northeast. The foundation has ever since provided them with additional sustenance in return for their skills.

Now the story is to be retold once again, more movingly than ever, in the exhibition “From the Hands of the Hills … To the Hands of the Queen”, taking place from August 1 to October 11 at the Queen’s Gallery.

The exhibition – which will cover all five floors of the gallery and include multimedia presentations on the hilltribes’ living conditions – commemorates both His Majesty the King’s 70th anniversary on the throne and Her Majesty’s seventh-cycle birthday next month.

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Thanpuying Charungjit Teekara, the Queen’s deputy private secretary, says six groups of “Thai mountain people” will be represented in the show – the Karen, Hmong, Yao (Mien), Lisu, Akha and Musser (Lahu). All persevered through the destruction of their homelands during the 1950s and ’60s and were often left with little choice but to participate in “slash-and-burn” agricultural practices that led to forests being cleared and watersheds damaged.

The first-floor exhibits will address this aspect of their history specifically and show how Their Majesties sought to improve the hill people’s lot, including the introduction of sustainable farming methods by which the tribes could resume living in full harmony with their surroundings.

On the second and third floors will be displays of royal kindness towards the hill people, such as the creation of the Support Foundation. The palace encouraged them to honour their traditions and maintain their unique identities, as reflected in their textiles, silverwork and other arts and crafts. Several of the groups will participate in the exhibition in person, demonstrating their remarkable weaving techniques.

Their Majesties formal long-term initiatives and how they evolved over the generations will be examined on the fourth floor. And the fifth floor will be a “learning centre” where visitors can make their own hilltribe-style fabrics, buy handicrafts and have their photos taken wearing authentic outfits.

Cultural heritage, Thanpuying Charungjit points out, is a priceless treasure that must be preserved. Her Majesty showed great foresight in setting up programmes that not only gave the ethnic peoples alternative sources of income but also improved their environment and strengthened their sense of identity. They were able to find better employment or, if they chose, continue doing craftwork, with the full backing of the palace. The result, she says, was a revival of interest in their traditional arts and the emergence of innovations that added value to their skills as artisans. And no longer did they have to migrate with the seasons to sustain their livelihoods.

“Their Majesties have always been concerned about these mountain people because they rely so much on the natural water sources in their surroundings,” Thanpuying Charungjit says. “We don’t have melting snow to replenish the rivers, and the forests where they live are the hearts of the watersheds – they keep the whole country supplied with water.

“In the past Their Majesties often visited the mountains. Looking down from their helicopter they could see the vast opium fields, and sometimes they’d walk through those fields too. That’s why His Majesty initiated his Royal Project to introduce alternative forms of agriculture, and Her Majesty supplemented this with her handicrafts programmes, getting the hill people involved with the Support Foundation she’d started in the Northeast.

“Every time Her Majesty visited the North, the local people would dress in their decorative costumes. And every time, she would ask about their living conditions, what they grew and what they were eating, where their water came from, how

far from their homes they’d have to travel to get the water, and whether it was available year round.

“Her Majesty would always remind them that cultural heritage, such as their craftsmanship, had to be preserved, and that they should help the environment and conserve the forests by, for example, not using chemicals in their planting, since they lived at the sources of the whole country’s water supply.

“She also urged them to think about future generations – what they would think if their forebears were to ruin the environment.”

Thanpuying Charungjit says the Queen “has a keen perception” of artistic creativity. She’s an adapt observer of details in the hand-woven clothes of Karen women with their colourful seams, the rich embroidery of the Hmong, the appliqu้ and coloured yarn of the Lisu, and the Akhas’ silver decorations and beading.

“Her Majesty would always ask them to do more, and they’d present her with their finest work. She’d buy the pieces and then recreate them in her own style of clothing, or on a pillowcase or blanket. The hilltribes came to realise that their handiwork had greater value than they’d realised and became prouder of it, especially seeing their fabrics being worn by the Queen. The fact that everything is made by hand makes it far more beautiful and valuable than anything done by machines.”

Thanpuying Charungjit says the Support Foundation receives a steady stream of hand-woven cloth and handicrafts and has experts evaluate the items and offer the makers a fair price, which varies according to refinement and overall quality. “They don’t know the source of any given piece, so they can judge them without bias. Only the accountant knows exactly where the most beautiful pieces come from.

“For the most exceptional works, at Her Majesty’s advice, we give the makers a bonus to boost their spirits. She always stresses that the beauty of art comes from the artist being happy.”

Years ago the Queen established the Support Training Centre (now called the Sirikit Institute Training Centre) in the grounds of Chitralada Palace, the royal residence in Bangkok, and insisted there be no limitations on who could attend, in terms of age, skill level or formal education.

“She likes it when the member of the family considered ‘least useful’ at home comes and works for her so they aren’t a burden on their family,” Thanpuying Charungjit says. “She believes learning comes through collaborating with others. Hill people who are especially good at creating silver decorative work will teach the skills to others, and they train the artisans who made pieces for the royal court that are shown in the ‘Art of the Kingdom’ exhibition in the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall.

“We’re always proud to see the children raised at the centre growing up and being able to draw such beautiful curved lines freehand and create such amazing artwork.”

One of the most cheering parts in the show is sure to be the sight of some of these youngsters – the children of the hill forest and the foremost beneficiaries of the Support Foundation – drawing pictures to illustrate their appreciation for all the good the King and Queen have bestowed on them.

A ROYAL

APPRECIATION

– The exhibition “From the Hands of the Hills … To the Hands of the Queen” will be on view at the Queen’s Gallery on Rajdamnoen Klang Road in Bangkok from August 1 to October 11, daily except Wednesdays from 10am to 7pm.

 

Daring to dream

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THAI THEATRE

Now showing at Thong Lor Art Space, 'The Place of Hidden Painting' is an adaptation of popular novels 'Khanglang Phap' and 'Ban Saithong'. Photo/Nutpajee Praparat

Now showing at Thong Lor Art Space, ‘The Place of Hidden Painting’ is an adaptation of popular novels ‘Khanglang Phap’ and ‘Ban Saithong’. Photo/Nutpajee Praparat

Absurdist Japanese theatre '1969 A Space Odyssey? Oddity!' was staged in May. Photo/TLAS

Absurdist Japanese theatre ‘1969 A Space Odyssey? Oddity!’ was staged in May. Photo/TLAS

Thanks to special attention and monitoring by the government, all performances of B-Floor's “Bang Lamerd” were completely sold out last year. Photo/Cheeranat Chiarakul

Thanks to special attention and monitoring by the government, all performances of B-Floor’s “Bang Lamerd” were completely sold out last year. Photo/Cheeranat Chiarakul

Damkerng Thitapiyasak’s Thai adaptation of 'Boeing Boeing', 'Fly with Me Free Breakfast', was staged at the art space last year. Photo/TLAS

Damkerng Thitapiyasak’s Thai adaptation of ‘Boeing Boeing’, ‘Fly with Me Free Breakfast’, was staged at the art space last year. Photo/TLAS

Surachai Petsangrot's interdisciplinary work 'Lone Man and the Flowers' took up all floors of Thong Lor Art Space in late February. Photo/Plampark Phapho

Surachai Petsangrot’s interdisciplinary work ‘Lone Man and the Flowers’ took up all floors of Thong Lor Art Space in late February. Photo/Plampark Phapho

The recently ended 'Stick Figures' was performed by two different casts in both English and Thai. Photo/Tatisara Changmane

The recently ended ‘Stick Figures’ was performed by two different casts in both English and Thai. Photo/Tatisara Changmane

Producer and curator Leon is one of the three core members of TLAS. Photo/Plampark Phapho

Producer and curator Leon is one of the three core members of TLAS. Photo/Plampark Phapho

7

Now two years young, Thong Lor Art Space is living up to its name, offering a variety of programmes all year round

With the Thai Thai and English-language productions of Josh Ginsburg’s “Stick Figures” ending a 34-performance run on June 30 and New Theatre Society’s new comedy “The Place of the Hidden Painting” opening seven days later at Thong Lor Art Space (TLAS), theatre fans from all over Bangkok are spending a considerable amount of time in Sukhumvit 55, or Thonglor as it also known.

And even though, its Facebook page hasn’t revealed much of what’s coming in the next month, this small art centre, converted from a guesthouse and a three-minute walk from a BTS station, already has programmes lined up past the end of this year.

“Running the space is a combination of what we anticipated and what we didn’t expect at all,” says producer and curator Wasurat “Leon” Unaprom, who was part of Democrazy Studio, before he co-founded TLAS.

“By that I mean we’re a production team with the aim of presenting works all year round and our programming has already tapped into other genres of arts, like short film screenings and [visual arts] exhibitions. We’re art entrepreneurs, the way we set out to be from the start.

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“But we hadn’t expected it to be so difficult or exhausting. This is mainly due to finances. We have a staff of 10 full-time members, so we’re like a small company. Dealing with artists is also an issue. It was difficult as well for the three of us – managing director Chrisada Sambandaraksa, PR and marketing director Pasachol Niwatwong and myself – to adjust to this new business model and to learn from one another. Drawing the attention, and of course the attendance, of the audience is another major task. We originally decided that each production would run for 15 performances, and now we’ve moved up to 20-25, and ‘Stick Figures’ ran for 34. So, where are our audiences?

“It’s very unpredictable. Some regulars stopped attending after a few productions – perhaps they watched a work that didn’t match their taste or maybe they are having to keep a closer watch on their money. For example, those who used to be able to allocate Bt 1,000 a month for theatre tickets, might have only half of that now during this economic slowdown, and are thus limited to only one production. At the same time, they may have switched to watching films and TV at home and prefer to save their cash for a good meal out. But we do have some die-hard fans, many of them older people and expats,” he says.

Filled with diversity in both content and form, TLAS’s programming is the opposite of predictable and, unlike most companies and venues here, never settles on one successful formula.

“We seriously discussed this issue from the beginning. We’re an art space, not a theatre. We’re also part of the French Embassy’s Galleries’ Night this year and we’re renovating our fourth floor space into a gallery, although I have to admit that we’re not yet in the visual arts circle. We’ve also screened some movies but the best space for that is our ground floor, a main venue for performing arts, which needs to be booked months in advance.

“Anything can take place in this small art complex. Our PR and marketing team works very hard to communicate with the audience – after all, it’s the audience who decide whether or not each work is their cup of tea. We’ve settled for now on just two big productions a year, with a larger cast and stronger appeal for the general public. Last year, we staged ‘Fly with Me, Free Breakfast’ and ‘Lady of Siam: The Musical’ and this year, we’ve had ‘Stick Figures’. For the audience, these are like the first door. Experimental works, imported works, international collaborations and works by up-and-coming artists also have doors through which audiences can enter when they trust in the TLAS brand.”

In early May, for example, absurdist Japanese theatre “1969: Space Odyssey? Oddity!” ran for 10 performances. Unlike most performances, it was not proposed by the company nor did it come on a recommendation from a cultural institute, but was picked by Leon after he saw it at the Tokyo Performing Arts Market (TPAM).

“I saw a lot of new faces in the audience but at the same time many regulars stayed away. With the unorthodox style of the work, we were expecting to draw new audiences, and they showed up. It was a risk of course, and the Japanese artists willingly shared this risk. To be more specific, they took care of their flights, and we provided their accommodation, transportation, meals and a minimal artistic fee, which was all we could afford. In the end, we had a positive response from the audience and critics, the artists were happy and the marketing team was okay with it,” he says.

It was slightly different for the recently ended “Stick Figures”. “We had people coming to TLAS for the first time because of what their friends wrote and shared on social media as well as the coverage on TV. Also, the subject matter [coping with the loss of a loved one] is more approachable, and both cast and crew were top notch. It was another risk as it’s an unknown play and was personally recommended to Chrisada. Then our guest director Pattarasuda Anuman Rajadhon proposed two different casts performing it in two languages and we went with it, In the end, we had 17 performances in English, and 17 in Thai. The American playwright was very happy with it as well.”

And after these experiments, or risks as Leon prefers to call them, in programming, TLAS is now back in the mainstream, aiming to draw the masses with “The Place of Hidden Painting”. Being staged without English surtitles, this screwball comedy is an adaptation of popular novels “Khanglang Phap” and “Ban Saithong”.

TLAS’s persistent productivity and creativity have paid off, Leon says, opening many doors of opportunity.

“It’s truly surprising to us that in just two years, instead of the five years we originally projected, we’ve already had the chance to both attend festivals overseas and also make formal presentations of what we’re doing and how we can work together with them.”

That, Leon adds, has encouraged the partners to create more platforms for TLAS, for example, the annual Low Fat Art Fest. Inaugurated last November, it featured artist-in-residency programmes and collaboration between Thai and international artists that hopefully will lead to international tours of their works.

“Rather than just being seen as a venue, our art fest has become a major player on the international performing arts market. Last year, all Low Fat Art Fest works were international collaborations. We believe in diversity and we value networking opportunities for Thai and international artists. This year the festival will present further progress in some of these collaborations as well as selected foreign works. It will be held in November again at both TLAS and the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), in co-operation with Bangkok Theatre Festival (BTF). We’ll also present film screenings and performance arts.”

And now that the programme for the remainder of this year has already been set, the TLAS team is looking forward to 2017.

“Next year, we’re adding another festival to our calendar. This will be on top of the Low Fat Art Fest and 12 productions in the regular programme on which our 10 staff members are already working. It’s not a completely new festival but what we’re picking up from Sun Dance Theatre’s Bangkok Queer Theatre Festival. [Artistic director of Sun Dance Theatre] Sun Tawalwongsri is a good friend of mine and his lease of the Silom venue was terminated last year. We discussed this co-operation at TPAM earlier this year and we plan to focus more on lesbian works. We hope to organise this in May, with about three international works from South Korea, Taiwan and Cambodia in addition to local pieces.”

And there’s yet another new initiative.

“We’re planning a large production of [adaptation of popular novel] ‘Plai Thien’ and we’re thinking about staging it at a larger venue so that the ticket sales can cover the production cost in a shorter run.”

“And we hope to turn our rooftop into a bar.”

AND ELSEWHERE

-Other small and independent venues with frequent programmes include Creative Industries and Blue Box, both at M Theatre, B-Floor Room and Crescent Moon Space, both at Pridi Banomyong Institute in addition to BACC’s 4th floor studio, whose performing arts programmes now fill up almost eight months, and of course Democrazy Studio.

 

Fun for all the family

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STAGE REVIEW

Kaiji Moriyama's 'Live Bone' introduced the human anatomy to young audiences. Photo/Christian Hogue

Kaiji Moriyama’s ‘Live Bone’ introduced the human anatomy to young audiences. Photo/Christian Hogue

'AliBaBach' by Companhia de Musica Teatral (Portugal) delighted toddlers and parents alike. Photo/Christian Hogue

‘AliBaBach’ by Companhia de Musica Teatral (Portugal) delighted toddlers and parents alike. Photo/Christian Hogue

'The Old Man's Books' by Indonesia's Papermoon Puppet Theatre was joined by a local puppeteer. Photo/Christian Hogue

‘The Old Man’s Books’ by Indonesia’s Papermoon Puppet Theatre was joined by a local puppeteer. Photo/Christian Hogue

Theatre Rites from the UK demonstrated some fun recycling ideas in 'Recycled Rubbish'. Photo/Christian Hogue

Theatre Rites from the UK demonstrated some fun recycling ideas in ‘Recycled Rubbish’. Photo/Christian Hogue

4

Staged over the last two weekends, the first BICT left more than just fond

Ask Bangkok kids the one stage performance they look forward to watching in a calendar year and most will answer “Disney on Ice”. Ask the more than 1,000 youngsters who attended the 1st Bangkok International Children’s Theatre Festival (BICT Fest) from June 21 to July 3 at Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) and the chances are the answers will be very different.

In a sprawling metropolis like Bangkok where the choices for children’s weekend activities tend to be limited to department stores where tutoring centres and music and dance schools are also conveniently located, BICT Fest, organised by Arts on Location and Democrazy Studio, was a welcome addition to our performing arts calendar and met with much enthusiasm. Many performances, local and international, were sold out and some productions needed to add a few extra shows to meet the demand.

Delights and surprises were abundant. At the fourth floor studio, UK’s Theatre Rites, performing in a non-English speaking country for the first time and limiting their spoken language here, ingeniously taught us how to recycle garbage properly by showing us the many different creative ways in which garbage can have a second life. Later on the same afternoon, Indonesia’s Paper Moon not only made use of puppets created by local participants in their week-long workshops but also incorporated, seamlessly, a local puppeteer in “The Old Man’s Books”, showing that regional collaboration is clearly a possible direction for future BICT Fests.

The following weekend, the studio was transformed into a theatre-in-the-round and veteran Japanese contemporary dance artist Kaiji Moriyama proved with his solo performance “Live Bone” that contemporary dance could be understood and enjoyed by children too.

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“When All Was Green” by Israel’s Key Theatre was another lesson in environmental conservation, keenly told without words, successfully crossing cultural boundaries, and with a simple set made with used leaves of books..

An international festival wouldn’t be complete without local works and BICT Fest provided an international stage, or at least more exposure, to the storytelling masters Kid Jam for their “Little Cat”, a tuneful retelling of a Japanese tale on death. A week later, also in the kid’s room of BACC library, young members of B-Floor Theatre staged “The Adventure of Yoo Dee”, completely free of political commentary. Although their skills and vision in shadow puppetry and object theatre are still in development, this work was a nice addition to the company’s repertoire. Veteran Chiang Mai all-female shadow puppet troupe The Wandering Moon and Endless Journey Performing Group gave a delightful performance but their 15-minute “Yellow O” was too brief to make any real impact.

My unforgettable BICT experience was attending Portuguese company Companhia de Musica Teatral’s “AliBaBach”, along with many toddlers in arms, most of whom were watching their first stage performance and some of whom responded to and communicated with the two performers in their own language.

In addition to the performances, all foreign companies conducted a variety of workshops, both at BACC and the nearby Sodsai Pantoomkomol Centre for Dramatic Arts. Lectures and discussion forums with foreign and local artists and scholars were also held. All these extra activities made BICT a complete festival that left not only fond memories but also provided important knowledge for artists and audiences.

With strong support from foreign cultural partners like the Japan Foundation, the British Council, the Embassy of Israel, the Portuguese Cultural Centre and Fundacao Oriente on top of that offered by the well-equipped city-centre venue, one has to wonder why this new initiative in contemporary arts, which has high potential to continue way into the future, is supported by neither the Ministry of Culture’s Office of Contemporary Art and Culture (OCAC) nor the Thai Health Foundation. The former seems to prefer organise its own one-off festivals; the latter is, otherwise, known for their continuous support for children’s theatre. With more local support, BICT could lower its ticket prices. Current ones for foreign shows, Bt450 for adults and Bt150 for children, might have prevented many families from watching more than one work, or even resulted in dads having to wait for mother and child at a cafe.

The plan is for BICT to be a biannual event, but judging from the audience’s reaction to Bangkok’s first-ever full-scale festival of children’s theatre, it certainly warrants being an annual event.

In the meantime, I’m using some kind of Disney magic to turn my overweight 20-month-old four-legged “son” into a lighter two-legged version, so we can enjoy this quality family time together at the next BICT.

 

Seoul architects’ ship comes in

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http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Seoul-architects-ship-comes-in-30290124.html

CONTEMPORARY ART

‘Temp’L’ by Shinslab Architecture on display in the courtyard of the MMCA in Seoul. Photo/Shinslab Architecture/MMCA

‘Temp’L’ by Shinslab Architecture on display in the courtyard of the MMCA in Seoul. Photo/Shinslab Architecture/MMCA

A retired freighter that transported cargo between Mokpo and Jejudo Island for 35 years. Photo/Shinslab Architecture/MMCA

A retired freighter that transported cargo between Mokpo and Jejudo Island for 35 years. Photo/Shinslab Architecture/MMCA

An old cargo freighter becomes art – and a rest spot for museum visitors

A retired cargo ship that operated between Mokpo and Jejudo Island off South Korea for 35 years has become an architectural installation doubling as a summertime shelter in the courtyard of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Seoul.

The installation “Temp’L” by Shin Hyung-chul and Claire Shin’s Shinslab Architecture is the winning design in this year’s Young Architects Programme.

The Korean edition of the programme, launched by the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 1998, has since 2014 selected the best architectural designs that are then installed in the museum courtyard.

“It felt like a treasure hunt finding the retired ship,” says Shin Hyung-chul, who travelled to Pakistan, Bangladesh, India and China scouting out candidates. Getting one transported to South Korea would have proved problematic, but he found a suitable vessel that was about to be dismantled in the southwestern port city of Mokpo.

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“I discovered aesthetics on its rusty surface and scars and in the colours created from more than 20 layers of paint,” he says. “I realised that an industrial object can be a work of art!”

The architects dismantled the 60-tonne cargo ship and added flourishes including Marcel Duchamp’s infamous urinal and Le Corbusier’s “An Eye that Cannot See”. More concepts and ideas that Shin borrowed from modern architecture are on view at Gallery 8, along with models made by finalists in the Young Architects Programme.

“‘Temp’L’ commences with an analysis,” says Sean Anderson, associate curator of architecture at MoMA in New York City, who was one of the judges. “Artists and architects tested boundaries of modernism including Marcel Duchamp, and in so doing, reconfigured these pieces of our daily life that we overlook and disregard, including environmental issues.”

Shin likens the redesigned ship to the ready-made urinal titled “Fountain” that Duchamp mockingly proclaimed to be art and displayed in a 1917 exhibition, shattering forever the notion that art had to be made by artists.

“Fountain” comprised “two popular concepts in contemporary art and architecture – presenting objects themselves as art and recycling materials”, says Park Geun-tae, curator of the project.

Le Corbusier greatly influenced Shin’s idea to transform a ship into an art installation. The French architect “presented the idea of finding beauty in industrial architecture, such as ships and aeroplanes”, Shin says, and once showed a photograph of Paris landmarks lined up, “with their shadows forming the shape of a huge ocean liner. He titled it ‘An Eye that Cannot See’.”

Shin turned his ship upside down and planted trees inside it to create a garden. In contrast to the sturdy exterior, the inside is filled with green leaves, a place passers-by can rest. He cut several holes in the hull to let in the breeze.

“Le Corbusier said, ‘Architecture is a machine for living,'” Shin says. “I think architecture should be alive.”

 

Life on the high wire

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SUB-CULTURE

Artist Aaron LiHill’s graffiti on the building that will house the Urban Nation museum for urban contemporary art, in Berlin. The museum, the first of its kind exclusively dedicated to street art, is expected to open next year. Photo/AFP

Artist Aaron LiHill’s graffiti on the building that will house the Urban Nation museum for urban contemporary art, in Berlin. The museum, the first of its kind exclusively dedicated to street art, is expected to open next year. Photo/AFP

The former power stationcum nightclub Tresor in Berlin has been converted into a new museum dedicated to techno music and sub-culture. Photo/AFP

The former power stationcum nightclub Tresor in Berlin has been converted into a new museum dedicated to techno music and sub-culture. Photo/AFP

Street art and techno museums aim bottle
Berlin’s cultural lightning

Berlin, the cash-strapped capital of Europe’s top economy, has long tried to turn alternative culture into gold, but ambitious new bids to present underground art in museum settings could break new ground.

Street art and techno music took root across the city in the hothouse environment of post-Wall Berlin, drawing young creative types from around the world with cheap rents and disused industrial spaces ripe for the taking.

But as the city’s trademark brand of gritty coolness became globally renowned and then gradually more mainstream, Berlin has tried to capture lightning in a bottle: capitalising on the best of its art and nightlife scene without losing the spark that made it so unique in the first place.

A prime example of that high-wire act is the legendary nightclub Tresor.

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A former underground safe room for a pre-war department store that later languished in the Wall’s no-man’s land, Tresor in 1991 quickly became the top dance club in Berlin’s budding techno scene.

Now celebrating its 25th birthday, it still attracts an international crowd of electronic music fans but has long since been supplanted by younger rivals such as Berghain, a hedonist temple frequently named the world’s best club.

However Tresor’s founder Dmitri Hegemann, 60, is ready to take his project to the next level with a museum dedicated to techno housed in the disused power station where the club moved in 2007.

He says such spontaneity and knack for reinvention have served Berlin well.

“None of the plans laid for the future of the city after the fall of the Wall worked out,” Hegemann says.

“An ‘economy of niches’ ended up in its place: open a club or a gallery, a restaurant, a bar, etc. That economy of niches dictated what to do next, and it’s what has made Berlin so attractive.”

Hegemann noted that there were 30 million overnight stays in Berlin last year and he estimates that “50 to 60 per cent” of the visitors were attracted by subculture.

“Today 80 per cent of our clientele doesn’t speak German. But what all these people have in common is that they have been marked by this ‘culture of renewal’ that took shape here, which became a movement and has transformed Berlin up until today.”

Hegemann, for his part, says “techno was the impetus” for all that upheaval and ferment.

Meanwhile Berlin’s prolific street artists have long gone from being spray-can wielding outlaws to an accepted and even treasured part of the Berlin cityscape.

Perhaps the ultimate example is the Wall itself, which for those on the free, western side became a giant canvas for graffiti, angry political slogans and yes, museum-quality art.

The longest remaining stretch, the East Side Gallery, attracts smartphone-wielding crowds with its murals, which were painted in 1990 and recently restored.

Abandoned lots, often the remains of residential buildings bombed out during World War II, also provide walls for artist murals although rapid gentrification is quickly eating up such spaces.

Enter the Urban Nation foundation run by former gallery owner Yasha Young, who at the end of May launched work on a museum devoted to “contemporary urban art” set to open next year.

Young, like Hegemann, is aware that showcasing alternative culture in a museum runs the risk of sapping some of its vitality but says it is one worth taking.

“I’m not trying to press the planet ‘street art’ through a keyhole into a house – that would be defying the purpose,” she says.

“It’s named a museum because it will also do what a museum does: collect, research, archive and support (artists).”

The project will include an interactive library and vast exhibition spaces along the Buelowstrasse, a traffic-clogged avenue running through an unfashionable stretch of western Berlin.

The complex also plans to have a cafe, artist residences and studio space.

“We hope that this will be an art mile and it will become a truly living hub,” she said, adding that she plans to make the museum free to the public.

The city government, which provided the property, is enthusiastic about Young’s vision.

“The project is delirious and mad at the same time which is why it’s perfect for Berlin,” the city’s top culture official, Tim Renner, says.

Hegemann is also a bit ambivalent about calling his techno treasure trove a museum, which he says conjures images of “something that belongs to the past”. He prefers the term “Living Archives of Techno”.

So what will it look like? Hegemann says he of course wants to tell visitors about what techno is, how its influence spread, but also to “convey the feeling” to those who missed out on those heady days in dank Berlin cellars throbbing with bodies and music.

“I think of a place where visitors will come inside: suddenly, it gets dark, the fog machine gets going, a DJ appears in the distance, a bar rises up from the ground, the bass resonates and then the party’s started. A museum of the senses for those who don’t go to the club.”

 

Favourite fairytales updated

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http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Favourite-fairytales-updated-30289935.html

STAGE REVIEW

Shrek used a skunk as his body spray. Photo courtesy of BEC Tero-Scenario

Shrek used a skunk as his body spray. Photo courtesy of BEC Tero-Scenario

Princess Fiona (Lindsay Estelle Dunn) got to tell her story, as much as Shrek did. Photo courtesy of BEC Tero-Scenario

Princess Fiona (Lindsay Estelle Dunn) got to tell her story, as much as Shrek did. Photo courtesy of BEC Tero-Scenario

Pinocchio (Tony Johnson) confronted Lord Farquaad’s soldiers, as the fairytale characters refuse to be evicted from their land.Photo courtesy of BEC Tero-Scenario

Pinocchio (Tony Johnson) confronted Lord Farquaad’s soldiers, as the fairytale characters refuse to be evicted from their land.Photo courtesy of BEC Tero-Scenario

“Shrek: The Musical” delivered its messages on its Bangkok stop, just like the film did 15 years ago

During the intermission of “Shrek: The Musical” last Sunday at Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre, two young boys in front of me were asked by their aunt whether they preferred this show to “Disney on Ice”. The kids didn’t answer and I found it impossible to interpret their silence.

Stage musical adaptations of popular animated films are a major trend in commercial theatre – we’re now awaiting Disney’s “Frozen” which is slated to hit Broadway in the spring of 2018.

There are hits and misses of course, but producers are always confident that the audience will likely come in groups of three or more – a demographic almost always made up of two adults and one or more children.

Among the few challenges faced by the production creative team is to prove that this live experience is more than just the same old familiar story told in a different medium and also to make sure that it can also be enjoyed almost equally by the accompanying adults. Visionary director Julie Taymor set the bar so high with Disney’s “The Lion King” that it’s difficult for anyone to topple her record.

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And while Dreamworks is pulling the market share from Disney, Dreamworks Theatricals, with this musical being the only production, cannot quite catch up with Disney Theatrical Productions.

With a running time of two hours and 10 minutes as opposed to 90 minutes for the 2001 film, Pulitzer Prize winning playwright and lyricist David Lindsay-Abaire masterfully added background story to both Shrek and Princess Fiona. In the end, all members of the audience agree that fairytales must be updated and not all people can simply be stereotyped as hero, heroine and villain like in the traditional Disney animated films.

The American playwright also poked fun at popular musicals like “Les Miserables” and “Wicked” although most audience members here couldn’t catch these jokes.

The international touring production put together by NET Works and brought here for five days in between its tour dates in Singapore and Macau by BEC-Tero Scenario featured a commendable American cast.

Understudy Jack O’Brien in the title role never sounded nor looked like an understudy and he carried the show with charm and sincerity that could be felt through the thick make-up and heavy costume.

He was, though, slightly upstaged by Lindsay Estelle Dunn as Princess Fiona – thanks in part to Lindsay-Abaire’s addition for this role – who had no trouble switching back and forth between the stereotypical helpless heroine and kick-ass woman determined to get whatever she wants. Another delight was Christian Marriner whose character Lord Farquaad was two feet shorter than him and delivered all the comedic punches. Standing out from the ensemble of fairytale characters was Tony Johnson whose Pinocchio balanced both cartoonish and human characteristics.

As the curtain went down on this colourful production, my feeling was exactly the same as when I watched it in West End a few years ago. Back home, I put “Shrek” into my DVD player and started dreaming that BEC Tero Scenario will soon bring here – though not necessarily in this order-“The Lion King”, “Once” and “Hamilton”.

Another restage

– From August 4, Takokiet Viravan restages his jukebook musical “Lom Haichai” based on Boyd Kosiyabong’s songbook with new cast members, including pianist and crooner Saksit “Tor+” Vejsupaporn, at Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre.

– Tickets are from Bt500 to Bt3,000 at Thai Ticket Major.

– For more, check out http://www.Rachadalai.com.

 

When ‘Helmeted’ doesn’t mean secure

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/When-Helmeted-doesnt-mean-secure-30289979.html

FEATURE

Almost extinct in Indonesia and Malaysia, the Helmeted Hornbill is still thriving in Thailand’s south, but for how long?

THE ICONIC helmeted hornbill (rhinoplax vigil), one of the most gigantic and spectacular of Asia’s 30 species of hornbills, is in grave danger of extinction according to BirdLife International and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) who upgraded its threat status to critically endangered last November.

All hornbills are charismatic, mainly frugivorous (fruit-eating) forest birds of tropical forests, who take their name from the large ornamental casques on their bills, which differ in size and shape among species. The helmeted hornbill (known as Nok Chon Hin in Thai) is special, though, because unlike the other hornbills, the casque is not hollow but solid and bony.

Casques of the helmeted hornbill have long been sought after by Chinese craftsmen, who carve this so-called “hornbill ivory” or “red ivory” into elaborate ornaments and snuff-boxes. Even as long as 2,000 years ago native peoples of Borneo were already fashioning helmeted hornbill casques into ear-pendants and toggles. But Japan and China are the major consumers of helmeted hornbills casques, demand for which has suddenly and inexplicably escalated, threatening the future of this unique species.

“In 2013 about 500 adult helmeted hornbills were killed each month, or some 6,000 birds in one year, and that was only in West Kalimantan,” laments Yokyok Hadiprakarsa of the Indonesian Hornbill Conservation Society.

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According to Hadiprakarsa, who also works with the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) in West Kalimantan, and who has interviewed many villagers, foresters and officials, only 1,111 helmeted hornbill heads were confiscated by the Indonesian authorities between 2012-2014, and eight Chinese traders, along with two Indonesian citizens, arrested.

The helmeted hornbill heads were being smuggled to major ports in Sumatra, Java and onwards to Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Such a high level of exploitation is clearly unsustainable and, if left unchecked, will quickly drive remaining helmeted hornbill populations to extinction.

Dr Nigel J Collar of BirdLife International is an expert on these larger hornbills, noting that they have specific nesting requirements, choosing the largest living trees with nest holes topped with a perch for the male to use while provisioning the female.

During the breeding cycle, the female remains incarcerated in the nest cavity for 160 days, when both she and the nestling are dependent solely on food delivered by the male. Hunting during the breeding season therefore has an especially severe impact, causing the death of the nestling and compromising the survival of the female too.

Rates of forest loss in the Sundaic lowlands of Malaysia and Indonesia remain extremely high, owing partly to the escalation of illegal logging and conversion of forest land to rubber and oil-palm. Such habitat loss has already caused a massive reduction in hornbill numbers. Even inside protected areas, the best remaining stands of valuable timber may be targeted for logging.

Forest fires have also had a damaging effect.The helmeted hornbill has apparently almost disappeared from habitats where it was previously abundant in Sumatra, Indonesia, and is equally threatened in both the Indonesian and Malaysian parts of Borneo. It is still widespread in protected areas in Thailand’s southern provinces, which together support six of the country’s 13 species including the helmeted hornbill.

But even here populations of the helmeted hornbill are small and fragmented as so little of their ancestral forest habitat remains as national park and wildlife sanctuary, and all hornbills remain vulnerable to hunting, and theft of chicks for the illegal pet trade.

The Hornbill Research Foundation of Mahidol University, Thailand, led by Prof Pilai Poonswad and her team, has done much to raise the profile of hornbills in this country, conducting long-term term ecological studies

while monitoring populations of all hornbills in Thailand since 1978.

The foundation has studied the breeding ecology of the helmeted hornbill at Budo-Sungai Padi National Park and worked with villagers in the provinces of Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat to organise a Hornbill Family Adoption Programme, under which for US$150 (Bt5,250) per year the same villagers who formerly collected hornbill chicks are employed instead as nest-guardians.

Records sent to Bird Conservation Society of Thailand (BCST), the Thai partner of BirdLife International, by birdwatchers over the past few decades show that helmeted hornbills survive today only in the largest areas already protected as National Parks or Wildlife Sanctuaries.

It will take all the resources of the government’s Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plants Conservation (DNP) to keep these safe from poachers. A Helmeted Hornbill Task Force established through international cooperation among SE Asian BirdLife Partners – BCST-Birdlife Thailand; the Biodiversity and Nature Conservation Association of Myanmar; the Malaysian Nature Society, Nature Society (Singapore) and Burung Indonesia – to alert, and provide technical support for, government agencies in their respective countries could help coordinate action to safeguard helmeted hornbill.

Because of its relatively advanced capacity and knowledge, and good public awareness, Thailand is perhaps well placed to lead the way with its own a national action plan for the helmeted hornbill. The key government agencies, besides DNP, include the Customs Department, the Thai secretariat of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (Cites) and the Office of Natural Resources and Environmental Policy and Planning (Onep).

With timely and appropriate action, there is every hope that Thai populations of the helmeted hornbill in southern Thailand will not follow the Gurneys Pitta into extinction, but will be sustained, and even recover, as have populations of some other endangered vertebrates, such as gaur and banteng in a few, favoured protected areas of the western forest complex.

A DISAPPEARING FOREST GIANT

– The Helmeted hornbill is among the largest of Asian hornbills, about 110-120 cm long with a wingspan up to 2 metres Its plumage is patterned blackish- brown and white, with elongate white central tail feathers bearing a black band. The skin of the bare neck is red in the male, and pale turquoise in the female Its distinctive high red casque, yellow at the front and weighing about 300g, is the “helmet” of the common name.

– Helmeted hornbills are confined to lowland forests, from southern Myanmar, southern Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei and Indonesia – the Sunda Region. They inhabit mature evergreen lowland forest, and though recorded up to 1,500 metres above sea level, are mostly confined to lower elevations.

– The call of helmeted hornbill is utterly unique -once heard never forgotten. It is a series of loud, intermittent barbet-like hoots, sometimes double-toned and over two dozen in number, which gradually accelerates to culminate in a cackle reminiscent of laughter. Its unique casque is used in rarely seen aerial jousts in which two male birds fly from a treetop in opposite directions, circle round and swoop at each other, cracking their casques together in mid-air in a spectacular contest for supremacy.

– Hornbills are important bio-indicators of good quality forest and, indeed, help maintain plant diversity and forest cover through their role as seed dispersers. They are the largest fruit-eating birds in the forest canopy, consuming the fruits of more than 200 tree species, including not only figs but lipid-rich fruits, regurgitating and defecating their seeds far and wide, at great distances from the parent tree. Their role in maintaining the forest ecosystem is so immense that they are regarded as farmers of the forest and one hornbill may plant more than 500,000 trees in its lifetime. They are also predators of small animals including squirrels, snakes, and other birds including even the chicks of their own or other hornbill species, and can live more than 30 years.

Bright ideas in the Grey Zone

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Bright-ideas-in-the-Grey-Zone-30289976.html

HEALTH

Community day care centres would be a boon to Thai seniors, but more state funding is needed

AS HE wheels his 77-year-old aunt away from Bangkok’s first day centre for the elderly, Nakhon Thianprasert reflects on the familial duties that oblige him to juggle night-shift work and care for his ageing relative.

It is an increasingly common predicament in rapidly greying Thailand, where a demographic shift is straining social mores and threatening upheaval for the economy.

“She raised me when I was little, so now I’ll take care of her when she’s old – it’s our culture,” says Nakhon, who’s 35.

It’s common for Thais to take care of their ageing parents – the duty is drummed into them at an early age. But it’s getting tougher with the population of Thais over 65 expected to surge from seven million to 17 million over the next three decades, shrinking the workforce and burdening the welfare and medical systems.

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While other Asian countries with elderly populations, such as Japan and Singapore, have the money to plan for welfare, middle-income Thailand is getting old before it gets rich.

The warm climate and abundant luxury retirement homes makes it a top destination for Western retirees, but the concept is taboo locally.

Nakhon’s community in northeast Bangkok is working towards a compromise solution. Using donations, they run a small centre where children can drop off their parents during the day while they go to work or run errands.

Earlier this year the middle-class neighbourhood flipped an unused building into a brightly painted room equipped with a few beds, several rows of plastic chairs and simple exercise equipment.

Nurses and volunteers offer activities like sewing, painting and singing, plus a much-needed opportunity to socialise.

“It’s much better than staying home, where I just watch TV and do nothing,” says Nakhon’s aunt, Boonrod Khamhomkul, who suffers from diabetes and is unable to walk on her own.

The centre’s head nurse, Larita Chobpradith, goes door to door to around the neighbourhood to check on older residents and introduce them to the daycare concept. “Elderly people who have health problems don’t need to be bed-bound any more,” she says. “This way their relatives can also do their own thing and they won’t be stressed.”

Thailand’s rapid economic development, coupled with a successful contraceptive campaign in the 1970s, set the country on the path to ageing – a demographic transition that has taken some other developed countries up to 100 years.

But Thailand has only had a few decades to prepare for that shift. Some 20 million Thais – a quarter of the population – have no retirement savings and can only count on a paltry state pension.

While the Kingdom does have universal healthcare, many elderly people, especially in rural areas, struggle for access to it, says Sutayut Osornprasop, author of a recent World Bank report on ageing in Thailand.

He says more state support for community care programmes would help ensure that everyone gets the needed care. “In communities that are interested in elderly issues, we see very good results,” he says. “We need to think about the approach of community-based healthcare.”

A shrinking work force also threatens to weigh down the country’s already slumping economy. Neighbouring nations like Myanmar and Cambodia, whose populations are relatively young, are positioned to become increasingly appealing options to foreign investors looking for cheap labour.

One solution, says Kirida Bhaopichitr, a researcher at a Thai think-tank, is to shift the country’s economy away from agriculture towards services, giving elderly people opportunities to remain in the workforce. “As Thailand ages, the service sector could be a future engine of growth,” she says.

The country is also considering raising the retirement age and creating tax incentives for businesses to hire older workers.

Community leader Tanapol Petchmali, 64, was behind the first elderly daycare centre, but says more changes are needed.

“One day while I was working, I walked out here and saw an old woman carrying a bag and crying,” he says. The grandmother had been kicked out of her home and had nowhere to go.

“That was the starting moment that made me feel that, if we kept letting this happen in society, it would be trouble for sure.”

 

Affirming Haute Couture

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Affirming-Haute-Couture-30289973.html

FASHION

Dior

Dior

Chanel

Chanel

Dior goes back to basics, Van Herpen opts for hi-tech and Chanel brings its “petits mains” to the Paris catwalk

WITH ITALIAN DESIGNER Maria Grazia Chiuri expected to take the reins at Christian Dior within days, the French fashion house went back to its eminently wearable roots in its Paris haute couture show Monday.

Swiss pair Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, who have been holding the fort since the shock departure of Belgian designer Raf Simon last October, did not try to reinvent the wheel before handing over to Valentino’s Chiuri.

Instead they returned to one of founder Christian Dior’s favourite visual tricks – contrasting black and white.

Apart from a few sprinkles of gold leaf, the typically feminine collection – shown before a celebrity-studded audience that included singer Celine Dion and actress Marion Cotillard – comprised only the two colours.

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The pair, who won warm applause at the end, quoted the master himself who said, “White is simple, pure and goes with everything… while I could write a whole book about black.”

While they paid tribute to the expertise of the famous Dior couture studios, speculation grew that Chiuri’s appointment was imminent.

A well-placed source said last week that the 52-year-old Italian had been anointed to take over the luxury French brand.

Chiuri has turned around the fortunes of Valentino with her long-time creative partner Pierpaolo Piccioli, making it one of the hottest and most profitable houses in Europe.

Neither Dior nor Valentino would comment on her possible appointment, nor whether Piccioli would be joining her.

If Dior may have lacked invention, the brilliant Dutch designer Iris van Herpen made up for it in spades.

In what was the most poetic and subtly suggestive show of the season thus far, she created a line of exquisite high tech dresses inspired by the Japanese concept of “seijaku”, of “finding serenity amidst life’s chaos”.

Three dresses in particular stood out amongst creations presented like art installations in a baroque church to the sound of Zen bowl music played live by Japanese musician Kazuya Nagaya.

The first, an almost transparent bubble dress, was made from more than “one thousand hand-blown glass bubbles in transparent silicone that create a bioluminescent prism around the body,” the designer said.

Another sheer creation used a similar technique to coat “tens of thousands of Swarovski water drop crystals” to give the idea of “wet skin covered in dew drops”.

The third exuded a subversive sensuality with pearl-coated cotton and tulle cut to resemble opening oysters.

Van Herpen, however, said it was inspired by the study of “cymatics, which visualises sound waves”.

“For me it is very important to show that fashion can do different things. Innovation is needed, craftmanship, showing that there is a different way of making a garment. We have to move on,” she said.

“I was very inspired by my visits to Japan, it is a beautiful culture,” she added.

In contrast, Schiaparelli paid homage to its famous “Circus” collection of 1938, when its founder Elsa Schiaparelli roped in surrealist artists including Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau to help her design her fabrics.

Chanel pulled the curtain back on its Paris haute couture show Tuesday to reveal the secret life of its studios, where a small army of tailors, embroiderers and plumers turn out some of the world’s most expensive clothes.

Veteran designer Karl Lagerfeld transported 80 of his so-called “petites mains” (little hands), who can spend hundreds of hours on a single dress, onto the set of his catwalk show.

With American actors Jessica Chastain, Will Smith and his daughter Willow looking on, seamstresses laboured over impossibly detailed creations while models walked between tailors’ dummies and bolts of silk and taffeta.

The message of this minutious recreation of Chanel’s famous rue Cambon ateliers was clear – haute couture was timeless.

After the knowing rebels at hip brand Vetements had attempted to steal the traditional houses’ thunder with their cheekily commercial show in which they recut existing designer and streetwear clothes, the “Kaiser” was reasserting that real couture was painstakingly handmade.

Like Dior and Schiaparelli, Lagerfeld insisted that couture was unique, mounting a spirited defence of its values.

“If there were not these women,” he said pointing to his staff bent over their Singer sewing machines, “haute couture would not exist,” he added.

“We are dealing with great luxury, and this is how it is done, just as it was 100 years ago,” he added.

There was more than a whiff of Victoriana too about the plumed peacock dresses Lagerfeld sent down the runway, many in black and white, another echo of the Dior show.

There was also lots of the riffs on the classic Chanel box jacket and bolero – often in the palest of pearl pinks – before the show-stopping finale of English model Edie Campbell as a bride who |can both wear the trousers and have a frou-frou train of pink plumes.

“Next time I will have a bride who is over 40, and I will be put her in navy,” said the designer, who even at 82 shows no signs of hanging up his starched collar.

 

Shanghai Tang shows its Chinese DNA

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Shanghai-Tang-shows-its-Chinese-DNA-30289971.html

FASHION

Dior

Dior

The much-loved Hong Kong brand draws on Mongolian nomads for its new winter collection

FOR MANY fashion-conscious women in the country, China-inspired fashion is a go-to choice for special occasions, but can it fit in an everyday wardrobe?

Shanghai Tang, a Hong Kong-based brand, is trying to provide the answer, and recently held a preview of its 2016 autumn-winter collection in Beijing, the first by its new creative director Raffaele Borriello. Borriello’s collection was inspired by the Mongolian nomadic mood as well as the area’s colours and textiles.

While Shanghai Tang is best known for its elaborate qipao (cheongsam), Borriello reinterpreted the garment using new materials and more body-conscious cutting.

His collection also includes a versatile daywear line that highlights Mongolian embroidery and prints.

“When you see the architecture and fabrics the Mongolians use, it’s incredibly inspiring – specially the very rich and strong visual elements. So, it was easy for me to get ideas,” Borriello explains.

Raphael le Masne de Chermont, executive chairman of Shanghai Tang, says he hopes Borriello will “take the brand to the next level of sophistication and fashion”.

“We need to inject some true international flair into the brand … People might think that we make only traditional qipao, but that’s not what we do. We want to show people who we are today,” he says.

“Shanghai Tang, for many years, was very touristy as it targeted a Western audience. But today, it is truly a fashion brand that is based in China and sells to the global market.”

Founded in Hong Kong in 1994, Shanghai Tang is now owned by Swiss luxury giant Richemont. In its early days, most of its customers were Westerners. But now, about 60 per cent of its clientele is Chinese.

“The designs in the early days were a bit cliched with dragons everywhere,” Le Masne de Chermont admits.

He joined the brand in 2002 and quickly began to transform it into a Chinese lifestyle label with an international outlook.

“It was a very conscious decision. Our DNA is Chinese. But we are talking to global citizens with a modern interpretation of China.”

Having lived in Hong Kong for 21 years, he says he wants to make Shanghai Tang a Chinese luxury brand that the Chinese are proud of.

“Shanghai Tang belongs to China. There are a lot of cliches about China in the Western world. People don’t understand China. But we are ambassadors of a positive, dynamic China and we want to show it to the world.”

The brand is not the only one to capitalise on its Chinese origins. Emerging Chinese designers like Guo Pei are also making their presence felt in the global fashion world.

But Le Masne de Chermont says he does not see other Chinese luxury brands as competition. Instead, he considers them as allies who can help him open doors to the rest of the world.

Shanghai Tang, which celebrated its 20th anniversary last year with collections created in collaboration with Chinese designers Wang Peiyi and Masha Ma, now has about 50 stores worldwide, most of which are in Asia.

It also has one store in London and another in Miami and is now looking for a location in Paris. Despite a noticeable slowing in the luxury industry, Le Masne de Chermont says Shanghai Tang is keeping well afloat thanks to Chinese customers who just keep buying.

Dresses are the best-selling items for the brand worldwide, especially those with signature elements like embroidery and jade buttons.

Shanghai Tang now has 25 boutiques in China. It plans to open four more in Beijing and some second-tier cities in the near future.