SHOE AND LEATHER goods designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal is a very busy lady. In Bangkok recently for the very first time, the founder of the luxury brand Charlotte Olympia, made the first of her pit stops at the Emporium Shopping Complex where she introduced her spring and summer 2016 collection over afternoon tea.

Dubbed “I Married Adventure”, the collection shares its title with a memoir written by Osa Johnson, recounting the expeditions she shared with her husband in the early part of the twentieth century.

The result is a collection bursting with animal prints, exotic textures and rustic materials offset by watercolour maps and broguing detail.

A golden tan insole and contrasting leopard print lining feature throughout offering wearers a walk on the eccentric side.

You can journey back to adventurous times with the nappa “Bon Voyage” passport pouch and travel “Around the World” with a perspex inspired suitcase. Pair them with “Destination” printed wedges showcasing a design of vintage travel stickers. Decorative rattan heels and platforms adorn classic silhouettes for the glamorous first-class globe trotter.

Or escape into the wild with zebra-print block heels accented with silver piping and Ferocious sandals in aristocratic red raffia embellished with gold sequins. The Fierce Handbag, in ostrich-effect stamped leather, is embroidered with a leopard rug design, which also lays across the African Queen T-bar sandals.

Leopard-skin peep-toe platforms and Snappy crocodile cut-outs will arouse your animal instinct while Panthera sandals, featuring a hand-painted enamel leopard-shaped wedge, will keep you fiercely feline.

Make like an explorer with leather accessories embossed in animal prints and Expedition sling-backs folded in crisp ivory and khaki linens. The perspex Columbus globe clutch bag pairs with Well Travelled flats mapped out in suede applique.

Dellal’s passion for design was sparked by her love of fashion and nostalgia for the bygone era of old Hollywood glamour.

She took that passion to Cordwainers, the world-renowned college for footwear and accessories in London where she explored her interests alongside technical training in the craftsmanship of beautiful shoes.

Soon after graduating, she launched her London- based brand. That was in January 2008 and she’s never looked back.

During her short stay in Bangkok, Dellal met with her official distributor; Duangkaew Bhakdibhumi and Nalinee Worawongwasu of 24 Luxury, as well as several of her A-list fans including ML Piyapas Bhirombhakdi, Poruethai Narongdej, Orawan Ingkhasit and Rawiwan Tanaka.

Duangkaew and Nalinee also hosted a small soiree from the designer at The Siam Hotel, which was attended by several big names from the fashion and art world including Intira Thanavisuth, Vatanika Patamasigh na Ayudhya, Kornvipa Jotikasathira, Alisa Asavabhokhin, the Sretsis siblings Klyduan, Pimdao and Matina Sukhahuta, and actress Araya Alberta Hargate.

Dellal is also collaborating |with MAC cosmetics on a line of makeup that features three |different red lipsticks to match different skin tones, an almost-black, deep-brown liquid liner |and nail polish.

 

With the Songkran Festival less than two weeks away, fashionistas are already packing their bags with outfits, accessories and cosmetics that will ensure they look good while staying cool during the long holiday.

Triumph lost no time in suggesting swimwear for beach bunnies, organising a fashion show dubbed “Find Your Summer” and showcasing images of beautiful babes snapped by leading fashion photographer Amat “Yai” Nimitpark on the beach in front of Movenpick Pattaya. Made from high-quality fabrics and covered with summery plants and flowers, the swimwear is tailored to flatter every body. Tops in bandeau, halter or strap style provide the necessary lift while bottoms show off or hide the thighs as low-rise, shorts, and skirts. There are also one-piece suits designed to compliment a woman’s curves.

Prominent French swimming and beachwear brand, Vilebrequin introduces its new “Water Reactive” technology that allows those unable to choose between plain and printed to enjoy the best of both worlds. Astonish fellow pool users by going into the water with plain swim shorts and emerging with trunks bearing an attractive print. Dry off and the swimwear returns to its original plain colour. The magical Vilebrequin shorts are made from an innovative spinnaker cloth that reacts with water to reveal a cool all-over printed pattern.

For daywear, Tory Burch suggests a peasant blouse and swish skirt in crisp cotton made even prettier with a spray of embroidered floral and delicate smocking. The off-the-shoulder Eliza top brings a fresh, romantic flourish to the summer and boasts a white stretch-cotton poplin background sprayed with colourful flowers. A ruffled neckline and short, fluttery sleeves finish the look. Accessorise with a flat sling-backs and a little satchel.

Get elegant for the evening with Asava’s distinctive look that sees elements of the 60’s and 70′ reinterpreted through one-shoulder and cape blouses. You can also slip into a little black dress inspired by “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” or add a touch of masculine class to a night out with a tuxedo jacket and pyjamas matched with a custom-made lace dress.

Embrace the spirit of Aloha with Christian Louboutin’s new Hawaii Kawai collection. Spanning women’s and men’s shoes and leather goods, as well as two limited edition Nail Colour Coffrets, the collection is inspired by the mood and style of 1950’s Hawaii, harking back to the golden days of Elvis Presley’s “Girls, Girls, Girls”. An exotic hibiscus flower print, available in black and white iterations, can be seen throughout the collection on grained calf and linen toile, and in key mixed material styles.

The print also serves as a standout trim enhancing the curvaceous lines of the Houla Hot and mirage heel sandal Olala.

Brazilian flip-flop brand Havaianas looks to Latin America’s iconic beaches for its spring and summer 2016 collection, inviting celebrities during a recent party to create their own styles by matching the sole, the strap, and the pin.

For summery totes, look no further than Coccinelle’s Perine chic shopping bag. Its minimal volumes are dressed with shiny-opaque contrasts, surface patchwork, |lace-effect fretwork and gold brilliance.

Finish the look with a pair of shades from Marvel Vision’s “Retrosuperfuture” collection. |The 100-per-cent handmade sunglasses boast top-notch Zeiss lenses and frames and arms carved out of a single sheet of material. They’re available black, deep blue mirror, silver, all-gold, red, and green.

Finally, keep your beach make-up simple and sexy with Sisley’s Phyto Lip Twist and Eye Twist. Water resistant, both come in a jumbo twist pencil form that make them super easy to apply. Poppy red adds passion to the lips while emerald green and deep amethyst give a sultry hint to the eyes .

And after a day in sun, don’t forget to de-stress your face |with La Mer’s Brilliance White Essence line.

SUMMER HAS arrived in Bangkok and with temperatures well into the mid-30s Celsius, what girl wouldn’t be delighted to slip on an outfit designed for the heat by one of leading local brands? Shown at a variety of venues all over town in recent days, the collections boast floral inspirations, candy colours and positive attitudes.

SRETSIS

For the last 14 years, Sretsis, founded by sisters Kly, Pim and Matina Sukhahuta, has been turning fantasy into reality for women here and elsewhere in the world. A regular at the Mercedes-Benz Tokyo Fashion Week, the brand recently showcased its “Happiness Is…” collection in Bangkok.

Pimdao, creative director and founder, was inspired by her trip to Bhutan, a country where wealth is not measured by money but the level of happiness of the people and features touches of Bhutanese folkloric art in her classic cotton voile blouses with embroidered flowers. Tora the tiger, the brand’s mascot is emblazoned on a light jacket and dresses in printed silk chiffon boast petal appliques.

In designing her jewellery collection, Matina was also influenced by the natural shape of flowers, offering a new ear cuff adorned with crystals, stones and pearl that looks like a flower worn behind the ear and rings worn as if the real flower stems were wrapped around the fingers.

WEE

Supawadee Sirirattanapol, founder and designer of the brand, goes wild for hydrangeas in her summer collection, aptly named “Enchanting Hydrangea”. It features a selection of comfortable clothes to mix and match in pastel pink, blue, mauve and white. The style blends designs from the late ’60s with classic skirts and ’70’s trousers. The detail on the fabric and the use of thin chiffon add dimension to the clothes while crystal, lace and big ribbons give them a luxurious look.

CANITT

Inspired by the paintings of the so-called Botanicals Artists, Canitt’s collection by creative director Khanidtha Daroonnat, is called “Shades of Meaning” and underlines the attraction between women and blooms. Her Lady Luxe print is accentuated with curves to enhance the female form while floral embroidery and flowers add to the summery look.

Layering is evident in her jumpsuit and printed blouse and she effortlessly blends such fabrics as organdie, satin and lace. Party girls are guaranteed to wow in classic black and white enhanced by flower prints. Sunrise orange and pine green make for interesting additions to the pastel theme.

LA BOUTIQUE

The graceful walk of the former first lady, Jackie Kennedy inspired Patcharawat Trakalsantikul, La Boutique’s creative director, in designing his new collection, which he has named “The First Lady”.

Full of praise for Kennedy’s sophistication, intelligence and positive attitude in life, he brings back to life her elegant style in dressing both for formal occasion and leisure activities.

The prominent silhouette from the ’60s has been redesigned as a modern style and retains the brand’s ostrich feather signature. The trousers are well cut to enhance the flexibility of the modern women and a strapless jumpsuit reveals just enough skin for a truly sexy look. Lace and chiffon silk dominate daywear in romantic tones of soft pink, aqua-green, and warm tan. Midnight blue and the classic black and white heat up the night and reflect the definition of luxury.

VATANIKA

Welcoming the summer with sleek and sophisticated apparel, Vatanika can be relied upon to make fashionistas look cool even in the hottest weather. Designer Vatanika Patamasingh presents a new collection that conjures up the urban Californian lady, who is self-confident, decisive and a leader in everything she does, She travels the world in style and “street glamour” is her spontaneous ideal.

Quality materials such as signature Guipure lace, velvet and silks are incorporated in designs that redefine the silhouette and enhanced with mesh stripes, oversized metallic sequins, embellished ribbons, beads, and ostrich feathers. Floral prints are adapted to make the most of bright summery colours with white, gold, beige, and black serving to highlight the bolder hues. Pale pink and olive green lighten up the collection.

ANCHAVIKA

Anchavika takes its cue from the Lionesses, the first woman military group in American history to be sent into ground battle in Iraq, for its new “Strong Girl” collection. Designer and founder Anchalee Vikasidnakhakun gives the soldiery green tone and camouflage a feminine style with intricate colourful embroidery. Her jumpsuits come in dark velvet and her oversized jackets boast a decorated zip inspired by the military uniform.

 

NINE FASHION designers presented their latest women’s collections during the recent Indonesia Fashion Week, dazzling a young audience dressed up for the event.

For the “Muslim Wear” show, designer Yoha Friska Mei Fanny offered the grunge-style Yoha line dominated by black and white geometrical designs and a hijab style inspired by the Eastern European practice of tying a triangular scarf under the chin.

Zakia Bamahri’s Zaq collection had a masculine touch with tunic, vest and asymmetrical shirts in checks or vertical stripes. To accentuate the design, the hijab covered only the hair and neck.

The Hava line also presented dynamic designs suitable for teenagers. The layering of outerwear over cotton shirts, crop tops and the use of see-through materials and sneakers rendered the outfits suitable for any occasion.

West Nusa Tenggara motifs were celebrated in Shahia’s collection, while Lia Afif played with Palembang songket, adorned with accessories usually used by brides. Lia also arranged the hijab in the style of rural South Sumatra women.

Hanny Lovelly and Janeeta used luxurious fabrics in their designs, while Si.Se.Sa designers showed the classical cut of sharia Muslim wear, with flowing gowns and two-pieces in pastels adorned with pearls.

Japanese designer Chiharu Horiuchi made her debut at the fashion week by using kimono fabric to create loose two-pieces, jackets and outerwear. She emulated Japanese bridal headwear in a hijab in some designs.

“It’s unintentional, but the designs are indeed embodied in my culture,” she said through a translator.

Online boutique Hijup.com also made its debut, on the second day of the event, bringing out ethnic-inspired Muslim fashions. “We’re proud to expose the rich cultural diversity and multiethnic acculturation through modest fashion designs,” said chief executive Diajeng Lestari.

Zaskia is among the Indonesian designers active in popularising local Muslim style by taking part in overseas shows, including the recent New York and London fashion weeks.

“We’ll continue pursuing our dream of getting Indonesia recognised as a ‘pole’ of world Muslim fashion,” Diajeng said.

Senior designer and event coordinator Musa Widyatmodjo said the designers had to determine a character unique to Indonesia to achieve the dream.

“We don’t have the technology to emulate Paris’ high fashion or China’s mass production. Our strength lies in ethnic crafts, such as woven cloth and embroidery. Aside from that, a well-organised industry for Muslim fashion is a must.”

Ending on Sunday, Indonesia Fashion Week is expected to draw 120,000 visitors.

 

NO STRANGER to barrettes, bows and beauty products, Japanese Instagram icon and model Genking is a proud flag bearer for “genderless” fashion in which young men adopt unequivocally feminine styles and challenge traditional norms.

Although women around the world have taken to menswear in droves – sporting trousers since the 1930s when French fashion legend Coco Chanel put her equestrian clients in pants – the sight of a man in a skirt still raises eyebrows in the West.

In much of Asia, however, unisex clothing – whether in the form of a traditional shalwar kameez, sarong or kimono – boasts a long history, while popular theatrical traditions regularly feature gender bending performances.

Genking’s long bleached blond locks, curled eyelashes and fondness for both womenswear and menswear testify to a self-professed identity as a “genderless” person.

Born Genki Tanaka, Genking fell in love with fashion at an early age, dreaming of Chanel purses and pastel pink accessories.

“My mother was pretty tolerant…. But in those days, I still didn’t want to admit my feminine side and I was kind of trying to hide it,” Genking said.

“When I turned 20, I quit pretending.”

Genking set up an Instagram account where selfies showcase a style that has attracted nearly 850,000 followers, kicking off a television career and culminating in a catwalk appearance at the packed Tokyo Girls Collection show last year.

In Japan, men play every role during traditional kabuki – all-male theatre – performances, while the century-old Takarazuka Revue – an all-female musical theatre troupe – sees women slick back their hair and don tuxedos to the delight of adoring female fans.

“Gender role play through fashion and performance has always been a big part of Japanese culture,” says Tokyo-based style blogger and TV host, Misha Janette.

Local retailers have long catered to a fashion-hungry menswear market with slick tailoring, leather clutches and luxury skincare products.

Few young men, however, would have made the leap from watching male actors play women on stage to adopting “girly” accessories and wearing makeup themselves, were it not for the overwhelming influence of Korean pop music and Japanese anime movies.

“When K-pop became big in Japan, many young men adopted that style, trying to copy the effeminate facial features of male band members,” Janette says.

Meanwhile, as anime’s popularity rose, young boys turned to makeup in a bid to resemble their favourite cartoon characters.

“Genderless” trailblazers like singer Yohdi Kondo and style star Ryucheru regularly don schoolgirl braids, swipe on blush and dress in pink fluffy sweaters, adopting “kawaii”, or cute, styles usually reserved for young women.

But while Japanese fashion seeks to overturn convention, commentators say it will take more than men dressed in skirts to transform traditional gender dynamics in the conservative country.

“The genderless trend is really a fashion moment, it’s not necessarily about sexuality or any social agenda.. I don’t think a trend like this changes anything for women, it’s not empowering (for them),” Janette says.

Japanese activists have staged a long battle to scrap sexist, discriminatory laws while female participation rates in the workforce and political sphere are among the lowest in developed nations.

Nevertheless, proponents of “genderless” fashion are optimistic, pointing to the rising visibility of LGBT icons like Caitlyn Jenner, the transgender Olympic champion formerly known as Bruce.

Designer Tsukasa Mikami opened Tokyo fashion week Monday with a show featuring male and female models in floral silkscreen-printed garments and combat boots.

Mikami, whose previous collections have showcased men and women wearing the same garments, said creating unisex clothing came naturally.

“I don’t make any distinction between the sexes,” he says..

Hot new unisex label “ilk” offers a selection of dresses and belted tunics aimed at “customers of all ages, genders and sexualities”, according to designer Koji Ota.

Meanwhile, in a nod to the trend’s growing reach, retail giant Zara last week launched a unisex line of sweatshirts, tank tops and sneakers called “Ungendered”.

“The LGBT movement is a global |movement that we cannot separate from fashion… I think this free way of thinking is suited to modern society and (its) fashion,” Ota says.

For “genderless” fashionista Genking, the playful style heralds the dawn of a new age.

“The gender boundary is disappearing… Japan is still conservative, but I think we will see more men open up to genderless culture,” Genking says.

“How you dress is how you live.”

THERE WERE FIVE memorable looks from the autumn-winter women’s wear shows that wrapped up Monday in Milan, Italy.

KARL’S KINKY BOOTS

The most eye-catching element of Karl Lagerfeld’s acclaimed wave-theme collection for Fendi was a series of thigh-high boots in materials so supple they wrinkled like woolly tights. US model and TV star Kendall Jenner sported a ruched leather pair.

PRADA’S KEYS

Many of the models showing a collection that Prada badly needed to be a hit were sporting bundles of oversized gold keys. The unlikely accessories were intended to signal that these were women with responsibilities but mixed reviews suggested they might not unlock a revival in the fortunes of the flagging brand.

Prada’s answer to stagnating sales was unveiled on Thursday with a handbag-heavy seasonal line that the company’s executives hopes will spark a revival in the fashion heavyweight’s flagging fortunes.

Miuccia Prada’s latest offering had a post-war feel about it, with sailor- or nurse-style white caps abounding alongside cape-shaped coats and pencil skirts designed to emphasise the slender waists of more austere times.

Leather coats and jackets, which came with fur trimmings, tweed overcoats, argyle-patterned tights and elbow-touching woolly gloves also harked back to a less centrally heated era.

Prada could do with this collection being a major hit after two consecutive years of stagnating sales and no sign of an end to the slowdown in China that is hitting it particularly hard.

Against that backdrop, it was perhaps significant that almost every model who strutted down the catwalk at Prada’s Milan HQ Thursday was carrying, in a variety of ways, one of the company’s pricey handbags, the accessory which more than any other has powered its growth over the years.

And in another telling sign of the times, two of those bags are to be made available to buy starting today rather than being held back from release when the collection goes on sale in four months time

D&G’S FAIRYTALE FINALE

Dolce and Gabbana applied the princess principle and turned the glitter factor up to 11 for the finale of their fairytale-theme collection, sending out a spangled squadron of models in mini-dresses for what was definitely the most sparkling moment of the week.

The idea was “to evoke a dream-like feeling in every woman”, the designers said.

“Every woman wants to be a princess deep inside, albeit a modern one, a princess that instead of waiting in her castle for her prince to come and give her the kiss of true love, is independent and looks for her prince herself.”

In developing their vision of a new generation of princesses, D&G said they had been particularly inspired by Disney’s 2013 hit “Frozen”, a film in which the main character Elsa’s magical powers are rejected in a way some have interpreted as an allegory for society’s treatment of homosexuals.

“The new girls are not only independent, but have a personal point of view: First of all, they consider themselves as individuals; what makes them different is their attitude,” the designers said.

The show culminated in a glittering finale of 95 models dressed in mid-thigh mini-dresses covered in fuchsia, silver and pink sequins and crystals.

Italy’s debate over civil unions has proved bruising for two men, who, particularly because of Dolce’s roots in socially conservative Sicily, have been pioneers as prominent gay men in Italian public life.

Dolce caused a furore last year by saying he didn’t like the idea of gay couples seeking to have children through surrogate mothers and that he felt every child should have a mother and a father.

Gabbana disagreed, but defended his former life partner’s right to his opinion, leading to accusations of betrayal from the gay community and brand-damaging criticism from the likes of Elton John and Victoria Beckham.

The duo last month unveiled a line of handbags and T-shirts celebrating diverse family models in what some interpreted as an attempt to undo the impact of last year’s spat.

As things have turned out, Dolce and Gabbana’s different perspectives on gay parenthood were mirrored by broader Italian society’s reservations about allowing gays to adopt the biological children of their partners.

The bill which got through the Senate and now has to be approved by the Chamber of Deputies approves legal partnerships but does not ensure equal adoption rights for homosexuals.

Recent polls suggest 70 per cent of Italians think the parliamentary fudge was the right outcome.

ARMANI’S DARK SIDE

Black was the dominant non-colour in both the Emporio and Giorgio Armani collections, the latter being largely restricted to one material: velvet. The Milanese maestro, 81 going on 29, said he wanted to “wipe the slate clean” and address the prevailing confusion he spies elsewhere.

Giorgio Armani showed his velvet touch on Monday as he brought down the curtain on a Milan fashion week heralded as marking a revival of the suit-based women’s wear he pioneered in the 1980s.

Velvet has always been one of the Milanese maestro’s favourite materials and it is ubiquitous in his autumn-winter collection: black as the darkest night and, as he put it in his collection notes, dense, tactile and mysterious.

Having treated his fans to an unusually extravagant range of colours in his spring and summer collections six months ago, this marked a return to business as usual for Armani.

The first two models to emerge from backstage set the tone – the first in a tightly-tailored three-quarter-length black velvet coat over predominately pink slacks, the second in a cropped, pink suit jacket worn atop black velvet trousers.

A geometric-patterned shawl was a rare break in the sea of black. Many coats were verging on the cape spectrum while a charcoal grey quilted jacket was given a hoodless parka cut.

Floral print slacks had a pyjama feel about them, while black cropped jackets were adorned by glittery sun dial-style back patches or bibs.

There were also stylised flowers and black-tie detailing: a decorative lacquer collar with a long tie nonchalantly thrown over dresses and jackets, as well as nude fishnet ankle boots accented with black toe caps.

Even a handful of beige and checked suits came with black velvet trimmings.

Armani tends to eschew most catwalk trends, but here he embraced the one that has seen male models appear increasingly in women’s wear shows. He sent out a posse that, with their chunky fur-style jackets, looked as if they were auditioning for a part alongside Oscar winner Leonardo DiCaprio in “The Revenant” or in Quentin Tarantino’s “The Hateful Eight”.

At the age of 81, Armani is still trying to “look at reality with a new eye”, the collection notes said, in this case a “dreamy and emotional” one.

BAG BUGS MADE REAL

The most unlikely occupants of the front row were Piro-chan and Bug-kun, life-size versions of Fendi’s bag bugs, as inspired by Japan’s kigurumi (costume characters). The cuddly pink and blue mascots are here to stay.

Furs abounded, as so often with Fendi, but here they were jazzed up with vibrant dashes of colour. The collection also drew inspiration from Japan, generally in its fluidity and particularly in the form of the flowers on a baby doll dress that were modelled on an 18th-century Japanese wallpaper print.

But the nod to Japan that delighted Fendi fans most was the presence of Piro-chan and her male counterpart Bug-kun – mascots modelled on the furry handbag charms which have become cult items in Japan, a key market for the Rome-based house.

 

BRITISH FASHION giant Burberry Prorsum put the sparkle into London Fashion Week Monday, before Scottish designer Christopher Kane took his star-studded audience on a journey into the bizarre.

Burberry chief executive Christopher Bailey said the collection, which will be drip fed into stores from June, was inspired by a “patchwork” of influences.

Recurring themes included cashmere overcoats with military style epaulettes and brass buttons, brushed mohair checked coats and dazzling mini-dresses with hand-stitched sequins in floral patterns and psychedelic swirls.

“The collection is all the things that I love, a patchwork of all different things from the Mitford sisters to the military and a little bit of glam-rock,” Bailey told reporters back stage after the show, referring to six sisters who fascinated and scandalised British society of the 1930s.

Shares in the luxury label have fallen by 30 per cent from their peak, hit by falling demand in China.

Bailey said he hoped the latest collection, which is designed for wear all year-round, will tap into other emerging international markets.

“This is a collection of clothes that will be delivered in stores in very hot climates and very cold climates,” he said. “You’ve got big, heavy cashmere coats and you’ve also got very light dresses.”

The collection is already available on pre-order and the one shown at the next London Fashion Week in September can be bought immediately following the show and will combine menswear and womenswear.

“It feels like the fashion industry is supposed to embrace change and this format shows you can evolve and change,” Bailey said.

Among other items on show before an audience which included Naomi Campbell and “X-Men” actor Nicholas Hoult were pleated skirts, green glossy python coats, fur-trimmed leather jackets and iridescent lami dresses.

The show was soundtracked by a live performance from British singer/songwriter Jake Bugg, and the indie look inspired the menswear section as the label prepares to merge its collections.

Bailey delivered tracksuit tops with exaggerated full-zipper collars, and combined tracksuit trousers with blazers and skinny ties.

While Burberry trumpeted |innovation from the boardroom, Scottish designer Christopher Kane delivered innovation on the catwalk during his show at the cavernous Turbine Hall in London’s Tate Modern Museum.

Samantha Cameron, wife of prime minister David Cameron, had a front-row seat as Kane, renowned for his use of unusual materials, produced a collection based on the “notion of lost and found”.

Items included camel-coloured coats made from corrugated cardboard, rain bonnets resembling discarded plastic carrier bags, decaying woolly jumpers barely held together with metal pins and dresses that trailed into individual, fraying strips.

Earthy tones, deep reds and greys dominated the palette, harshly interrupted by one shocking orange creation.

“The unconventional, transformative journey of the Christopher Kane girl continues… in a collection that celebrates the lost and found,” Kane wrote in his introduction to the collection.

“The discarded detritus of glamour is accumulated and elevated to new heights,” added the designer, who won Britain’s “dress of the year” in 2013.

Sunday, meanwhile, saw the return of iconic fashion label Alexander McQueen to the London Fashion Week catwalk on Sunday for the first time in 14 years with a collection by British designer Sarah Burton.

Models on a labyrinthine catwalk presented flowing embroidered dresses with vivid butterfly motifs, glittery hairpieces and striking |winter jackets.

The event at Lawrence Hall, a 1920s exhibition venue in central London, attracted some of the biggest names in fashion, including Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of US Vogue.

The label’s founder McQueen, who committed suicide in 2010, was honoured last year with a retrospective at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and became its most visited exhibition.

Burton joined his company in 1996 and was made head of womenswear design in 2000.

Burton worked alongside McQueen for more than 14 years and was appointed creative director of the brand in May 2010.

The label, which usually shows in Paris, broadcast its one-off return to London on Sunday evening live on Twitter.

Once a relatively small event on the international fashion circuit, London has built a reputation for invention and creativity, buoyed by Britain’s growing fashion industry which now supports almost 800,000 jobs.

Many of this year’s shows have been streamed live across Britain on 60 outdoor screens, including a giant one in London’s Piccadilly Circus. Organisers say they could reach a potential audience of |35 million,

The event follows on the heels |of the New York version, with the fashion world shifting to Milan and then Paris next month.

 

LADY GAGA walked the runway for American design legend Marc Jacobs in a triumphant finale to New York Fashion Week following collections from Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.

Jacobs, the darling of the US fashion scene, prides himself on closing out the twice yearly Big Apple fashion bonanza by putting on extravagant spectaculars – and last Thursday was no exception.

It was a collection of Gothic fantasy filled with oversized outfits in which models sported incredible lace-up platform boots that added to their height as large clothes obscured their slender frames.

The pop diva took her place among professional models just days after donning a Jacobs costume in her flamboyant tribute performance to the late David Bowie at the Grammy Awards in Los Angeles on Monday.

She wore a pale green pussy bow blouse with a giant, oversized black coat with huge fur patches on the sleeves. Her blonde hair was crimped in rigid waves.

Actress Maggie Gyllenhaal was among those in the audience, which sat in a round leaving a giant circle as a catwalk. Ralph Lauren kicked off the last day before the autumn/winter 2016 womenswear shows move to Europe with a collection blending country gentleman and cowboy dandy styles, crowned by liquid gold evening wear.

British actress Sienna Miller was guest of honour, dressed in black, sitting next to Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and Lauren’s family for what is always one of the most popular shows of the week.

The 76-year-old self-taught designer, who has done so much to define contemporary American elegance, sent down the runway a tweedy, masculine look for daywear – a meditation on taupe, truffle and mocha.

He made extensive use of plaid and checks with signature suiting that included loose-cut pants, blazers and trench coats finished off with men’s ties at the throat.

The suiting was lightened when styled with delicate cashmere knits, pleated silk crepe pants and silk shirts.

To the chic countryside look he added quintessential American cowboy-style belts, boot-cut jeans and sturdy footwear.

Lauren’s evening wear had its roots in a Victorian-era elegance, with frothy high-lace collars and black velvet, and a Prussian pigment printed coat that looked like a Romantic-era smoking jacket.

There was a stunning black velvet evening dress finished with oversized pleated white cuffs and a white ruffle at the neck worn by supermodel Karlie Kloss.

A black velvet cocktail dress was made similarly exquisite – embellished with tightly pleated black leather ruffle sleeves and a collar that defied gravity and made the outfit look like sculpture.

Lauren broke new ground by finishing the show with a mikado evening dress, its billowing skirts in his trademark style, but giving off the overall effect of liquid, glistening gold.

It was Lauren’s first collection since stepping down last November as chief executive of his global empire, although the self-made billionaire remains chief creative officer.

Francisco Costa, the Brazilian creative director at Calvin Klein, used a sun-drenched Tribeca loft to showcase New York cool – the look that defines the label and pioneers contemporary, urban fashion.

“It’s the night before the morning after,” Costa said backstage, summing up the theme of the collection. It marked a return to tailored suiting for the brand, as well as novel use of fur for Calvin Klein.

Costa said he took brand innovation even further by “pushing it into crazy, very fun prints as well, which is all photographic, is all very new to us.”

Added to the ubiquitous black were checks in white, blue and black with a smattering of dusty pink.

Sharp suits were worn with low-cut V-neck slip blouses in silk and he followed a trend also seen on the catwalk at Vera Wang and Alexander Wang by using buckle and strap accessories. There were large fur collars, another key trend of the season, and leather panels cut into skirts to create movement.

Plaids were mixed and matched – with different check patterns used on the two sleeves of a dress, a third plaid on the front and yet another on the back. Fur coats were chunky with textured panels.

In a slight break with the usual Calvin Klein look, Costa incorporated oversized tribal-style pendant necklaces and sewed large jewels onto the front of silk dresses. The models wore sensible loafers.

There was also animal print in white and yellow, a tiger effect, as well as a leopard or dalmatian print style dress paired with a coat in a larger black and white animal print.

 

“A GOOD GEM does not have to be big. If it comes with a tasteful design and the stone is of good quality, that piece of jewellery can be passed down from generation to generation,” says Polpat Asavaprapha, designer of Asava.

Polpat recently teamed up with diamond expert Pitchaya Lopiti, a member of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and Sethawut Naruemityarn, a tastemaker at Siam Paragon, to offer tips on mixing and matching outfits as well as jewellery pieces.

Part of Siam Paragon’s “Colour of Love” promotion to mark the month of love, fine jewellery from leading boutiques is being offered as part of a special promotional campaign at the Hall of Mirrors through Monday.

Twenty leading jewellery boutiques at the shopping centre are taking part in the promotion, namely Bijoux de Louise, Blue River, DER MOND, Gems Pavilion, Karat, Le Beau, Mikimoto, P&P Jewelry, Pannarai Jewellers, Premiera, Prima Gems, Sette, Siam Tiara, Sirinapa Diamond, Sirus Tanya, ST Diamond Design, Tang’s by Chua Lee, Trez Jewellery, Xavier by Uthai Jewellery, and Charms Fine Jewellery.

During the talk, Pitchaya spoke at length about how to choose diamonds and the trends for 2016.

“The rule of thumb for inspecting diamonds and precious stones is the 4 Cs: Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat Weight. The trend for this year is for light colours, such as pale pink and blue, which give a feeling of relaxation, reduce stress, and look modern. You can also choose jewellery based on the month of birth to bring luck, love, and wealth. Garnet and rose quartz are January stones. Amethyst is for February; aquamarine for March; diamond for April; emerald for May; pearl for June; ruby for July; peridot for August; sapphire for September; opal for October; topaz for November; and turquoise for December.

While agreeing with his colleague about the trends for this year, Polpat points out that picking a jewellery item is really more about personal taste and style.

“Personally, I recommend jewellery that has a classic design because it is timeless and can be easily matched with clothes. The quality of the jewellery is also more important than its size.”

For those looking to buy diamonds and precious stones as gifts, Sethawut stresses this doesn’t have to be a ring. “There are other attractive pieces that also say ‘I love you’, such as coloured gemstone bracelets and bangles. If children are buying a gift for their mother, a coloured gemstone pin or a pin that can be turned into a pendant are an interesting choice,” he says.

 

THE MUSIC WORLD’S top stars rocked the Grammys red carpet Monday in Los Angeles, oozing sex appeal on the industry’s biggest night.

Here are a few key takeaways from the A-list fashion parade:

Girls’ night out

Taylor Swift and Selena Gomez have had their share of high-profile romances gone bad. So for the 58th Grammys ceremony at the Staples Centre, they made it a girls’ night out – and arrived together on the red carpet.

T-Swizzle, already a double winner on seven nominations, earned quick rave reviews on Twitter for her fierce two-piece Versace ensemble – a red bandeau top and a bright pink full ball skirt, slit all the way up the front to her waist.

Gomez, her long brown hair curly and loose down her back, looked sultry in a sleek sparkly sapphire blue Calvin Klein gown with a plunging neckline, side cut-outs and spaghetti straps.

The pair posed together for pictures – more proof that Swift’s “girl squad” is as strong as ever.

Lady Gaga meanwhile is a squad all her own.

She stunned in a long royal blue coat from Marc Jacobs embellished with silvery swirls – a Ziggy Stardust get-up that was clearly part of the build-up to her tribute to late rock legend David Bowie. She even went for the fiery red hair and heavy blue eye shadow.

British singer Ellie Goulding, a nominee in the best pop solo performance category for her “Love Me Like You Do,” looked sweet in a simple pink Stella McCartney slip gown with a train.

But who says girls should have all the fun?

Sam Hunt, a onetime American football player turned songwriter who is taking country music by storm, also showed up in head-to-toe pink – a blush-coloured Dolce and Gabbana suit.

The 31-year-old Hunt, who is nominated for the coveted best |new artist award as well as best country album, performed |with another country star, |Carrie Underwood.

British superstar Adele wore perhaps the most demure gown of the night – a romantic long-sleeved black Givenchy gown with crystal accents and the slimmest of cutouts at the shoulders. It earned mixed reviews from the Twitter fashionistas.

Underwood was a vision of old-school glamour in a strapless black Nicolas Jebran gown tied in a knot at the waist, creating a sexy thigh-high slit.

Shock rocker Alice Cooper – one-third of the band Hollywood Vampires with Aerosmith’s Joe Perry and triple Oscar nominee Johnny Depp – brought the most interesting accessory to the Grammys: a riding crop.

He even used it to smack Depp on the red carpet where the trio – dressed all in black, of course – talked about their evening tribute to late Motorhead frontman Lemmy, real name Ian Kilmister, who died of cancer in December.

The Grammys red carpet has often been a place to make a statement – and show off as much skin as possible. Jennifer Lopez’s plunging barely-there green Versace gown in 2000 is still a fierce benchmark.

R&B singer Ciara smouldered in a backless gown with one black panel and another encrusted with silver accents – all of it tied in a bow at the waist, showing off some serious leg. But sometimes, the skin sweepstakes can go wrong. Very wrong.

Singer Joy Villa arrived on the red carpet wearing what could hardly be described as a dress – strips of metallic material that looked like dinosaur bones and revealed most of her assets… and all that with a giant train and a headdress.

Manika looked more like a burlesque dancer than a singer, in a see-through gown with silver beading to cover the most private parts.