Behind the scenes with the Rebel Heart

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Gina Brooke

Gina Brooke

For her “Rebel Heart” tour, Madonna wanted to look “strong and fierce, but feminine at the same time”, says her makeup artist, Gina Brooke, who’s spent 10 years on and off the road with the American superstar.

“The look comes from a process of collaboration among Madonna, myself, the hairdresser and the other stylists,” Brooke said before Tuesday’s concert.

“Of course she has to have beautiful, glowing skin and a ‘full mouth’ because we felt that’s what really signifies a woman’s strength, as well as strong lashes and brows. She had to look like a rebel ready to stand up for what she believes in – love.”

Brooke has worked with Madonna on five world tours and numerous videos. “I don’t do the whole tour, but I train the makeup artists and set the looks. I come in for different countries and make sure everything is working.”

Brooke has decided she likes the final segment of the current show best. “It’s like the 1930s, because she wears a sort of flapper dress. So I made eye shadow out of real gold for her and apply it to her lips as well, with a bit of eight-hour cream on top to make it glossy. I love that era and she wears it very well.”

Brooke confirms that a concert tour is anything but glamorous. “It is very hard work, very demanding. Madonna is one of the hardest-working artists I’ve ever worked for. There is really no one like her. She’s very structured. She likes things a specific way, all the time, the same thing.

“She doesn’t meet people before show. She has the regimen she follows very rigidly. You really have to be professional – when she asks a question, you want to make sure you give her the answer right away, because if you take a minute away from her, it could cause you your job.

“Most artists show up just before the show and just perform,” Brooke said. “Madonna shows up hours before show time, checks the lights, goes through all the songs, makes sure the sound is working and so on. And what’s always amazed me is that, after all that and just before the show, she’ll sit with the head of each department, all of them with a notepad and pen. And she’ll say, ‘When I sing this song, this or that went wrong.’ She can remember every single detail of what happened at that moment and knows how it needs to be fixed. She’s a real perfectionist.”

There’s a big of magic involved in the quick costume changes, Brooke reveals.

“Underneath the stage is a small changing room, with two stylists, the makeup artist and the hairstylist, some chairs, a clothes rack and a mirror.” And every speedy change is practice-perfect. “We have to choreograph our movements for three or four weeks,” she laughs.

No Strings attached for the AEC

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http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/No-Strings-attached-for-the-AEC-30279006.html

THEATRE

Dallae's story/Photo courtesy of Art Stage SAN

Dallae’s story/Photo courtesy of Art Stage SAN

Two South Korean puppet companies bring history to a tour of Jakarta, Bangkok and Hanoi.

While we’re all familiar with South Korean music, television and film not to mention its cuisine and cosmetics, the same cannot be said for contemporary Korean theatre – and that’s despite the presence of non-verbal comedy “Cookin’ Nanta” performing nightly here in Bangkok, albeit mostly to tourists.

Now, thanks to South Korea’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism’s Korea Arts Management Service (KAMS), that’s about to change with the arrival in the Asean Economic Community (AEC) of two puppet theatre performances. Art Stage San’s “Dallae’s Story” and Performance Group Tuida’s “The Tale of Haruk” kick off their tour tomorrow at the Ice Palace in the Indonesian capital.

“Travelling Korean Arts is a new initiative to introduce Korean arts abroad in cooperation with Korean Cultural Centres (KCC). We now have 28 Korean Cultural Centres in 24 countries [including one here in Bangkok] and KAMS is supporting the presentation of performing arts and visual arts programmes of quality in cooperation with its local partners, be they venues, museums or festivals,” says Eunhee Kim, manager of KAMS’s International Business Development Office.

“It can be customised depending on region, genre and target. This upcoming Travelling Korean Arts Family is a targeted event focused on children’s theatre.

“For the Travelling Korean Arts initiative, we’ve set up a pool of programmes to represent Korean arts abroad from dance, music to children’s theatre. Indeed, we’ve received requests for children’s theatre from the KCCs in the AEC region. ‘Dallae’s story’ and ‘The Tale of Haruk’ have been highly acclaimed both at home and abroad. We believe these two works are a good starting point to introduce Korean children theatre to local audiences and artists.”

Based on the story of the Korean War in the 1950s, Art Stage San’s contemporary puppet theatre “Dallae’s Story” is not directly about the war itself, but shows the earnest attempts of a family to overcome all kinds of hardships.

Portrayed through a puppet, it shows how the title character used to admire the spring blossoms in the spring, go fishing with her father in summer, chased dragonflies and picked apples in autumn, and made a snowman in winter. Her life changes completely when the war breaks out and her dad enlists.

Korean traditional music, simple but effective sets, and a uniquely vivid combination of human performers and puppets have been combined into a wordless yet exciting performance that both children and their parents can equally enjoy.

The top prize winner at the Tolosa International Puppetry Festival in Titirijai, Spain, the show was highly praised by the festival co-director Miguel Arreche, who commented: “Art Stage San intelligently directs a production in which the charm and magic of puppets are combined with beautiful choreography. In my opinion, we’re facing one of the universal puppet theatre masterpieces of the last 10 years.”

Part of the French-Korean Year 2015-2016, “Dallae’s Story” was staged last month at Theatre de la ville, Paris and won rave reviews.

Performance Group Tuida, meanwhile, uses traditional Korean puppets made of paper, unique native masks and percussion instruments made of such eco-friendly materials as Korean paper, straw and hemp and even trash in telling “The Tale of Haruk” in a contemporary style. This lyrical and beautiful story of Haruk who ate everything he saw breaks down barriers of region, race, religion and rebirth to become an everyman’s tale with which anyone can sympathise.

Acclaimed the Best Production at the Seoul Children’s Theatre Awards when it premiered, the work later won both Best Production and Young Critics prizes for the first time in Russia’s International Theatre Kingfestival’s history.

Looking to the future, Kim cites a recent example of Korea-Thai collaboration, “‘Something Missing’ by Korea’s Theatre Momggol and Thailand’s B-Floor Theatre as already paving the way for collaboration in performing arts between the countries. The show actually became one of the winning productions at the Bangkok Theatre Festival awards last November.

“We hope exchanges and collaborations in the arts between Korea and AEC countries will become more active and fruitful. The ‘Travelling Korean Arts Family’ can be an opportunity to learn more about each other.”

The writer thanks KAMS’ Caiya Kang for all assistance.

BEYOND K-POP

  • Art Stage San’s “Dallae’s Story” (non-verbal) will be performed at 7.30pm on Monday and Tuesday.
  • Performance Group Tuida’s “The Tale of Haruk”, in Korean with English and Thai surtitles, is at 7.30pm on February 18 and 19.
  • Both are part of World Performances@Drama Chula at the Sodsai Pantoomkomol Centre for Dramatic Arts on Henri Dunant road, a 10-minute walk from BTS Siam, exit 6.
  • Admission is free but reservations are necessary. Call (081) 559 7252 or (02) 651 0165-8 or check http://www.Facebook.com/dramaartschula and http://www.Facebook.com/koreanculturalcenterTH.

Calvin Klein and the New York capsule

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http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Calvin-Klein-and-the-New-York-capsule-30279004.html

Handsome hunks and celebrities turn out to catch the design house’s eveningwear colllection

One of the major menswear brands to opt for not bringing its full collection to the recent CFDA New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Calvin Klein nonetheless compromised by showcasing Italo Zucchelli’s autumn 2016 eveningwear capsule during a special presentation.

The collection’s runway show, which debuted during Milan Men’s Fashion Week last month, offered formal men’s eveningwear that maintained the spirit and messaging of the brand.

The capsule consisted of tuxedos and outerwear exquisitely tailored and rendered in rich fabrics, sumptuous textures and unexpected accents. The lustrous silver, gold and rose gold metal foil that infused the runway collection with such a vibrant energy was also incorporated throughout the capsule, as well as in the presentation’s set. Calf-framed derby shoes were worn with each look, while earrings and necklaces mirrored after bolts and screws amplified the sense of masculine sensuality that permeates the season.

Notable guests in attendance and wardrobed in Calvin Klein Collection included independent hip-hop recording artist Joey Bada$$, who is currently featured in the Spring 2016 Calvin Klein global advertising campaign; actor Ben Walker; New York Jets’ Eric Decker; DJ Brendan Fallis and musician Mack Wilds, as well as men’s ambassadors New York Giants’ Victor Cruz and Johannes Huebel.

A newer, younger you

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http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/A-newer-younger-you-30279002.html

French skincare brand Sisley releases an updated and improved version of its famed anti-ageing treatment

One of the world leaders in luxury cosmetics, French skincare brand Sisley recently introduced its new Sisleya L’Integral Anti-Age treatment that promises spectacular results.

“It is almost impossible for a brand to stop producing its best-selling product and our Global Anti-Age treatment, which we launched in 1999, has been our key success. Now thanks to our research into epigenetics, we have found something better,” Nicolas Chesnier, Sisley’s regional managing director for Asia Pacific, told XP during the recent launch at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, which was attended by several of the brand’s loyal customers.

“Our extensive research has proved that behavioural ageing such as stress and the choices we make like smoking, overexposure to the sun or poor dietary habits mark the face even more than genetic ageing and are responsible for the majority of ageing overall.”

Combined with previously identified environmental factors such as UVA-UVB rays, pollution and free radicals, these factors deregulate the lifecycle of cells by modifying “cellular rhythm”, in which the cells protect themselves during the day, and repair themselves at night. Also affected are “cellular energy” which enables cells to function and renew correctly and “cellular longevity” which is determined by the length of the telomeres, the protective extremity of each chromosome, the length of which correlates with cellular life expectancy and preserves the integrity of the DNA. In a young person, this lifecycle is well organised and functional. However, in a more mature person or a person who has undergone various behavioural stresses, this cycle becomes “jammed,” and if only one of the three factors is affected, the whole cycle is disturbed. The consequences on the skin are premature visible signs of ageing including wrinkles, loss of radiance and firmness.

Among the many active ingredients added to the initial Sisleya formula, three major new ingredients now optimise the functioning of this lifecycle to protect the skin from the visible signs of behavioural ageing. These active ingredients target the three parts of the cells’ lifecycle to help compensate for their being weakened. Lindera extract helps to resynchronise the skin’s biorhythms, restoring the ideal rhythm of activity for younger skin to the cellular metabolism. Persian acacia extract promotes optimal energy production at the level of the cells (mitochondria) to protect against and repair skin damage caused by cellular fatigue while yeast and soya protein complex helps protect telomeres. It also helps to maintain the integrity of cellular DNA against behavioural stresses, for optimised cellular longevity.

Eight different clinical tests have been carried out with more than 300 women and the results show an improvement in the quality of the collagen network and the dermo-epidermal junction. This was examined using in vivo microscopy, which enables all of the layers of the skin to be viewed from the epidermis to the dermis so that all of major constituent parts can be measured and the quality of their structure characterised.

A canvas for calm

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onty P Satiadarma, the first certified Indonesian art therapist in clinical psychology/ANN

onty P Satiadarma, the first certified Indonesian art therapist in clinical psychology/ANN

Indonesia’s first certified art therapist says painting can help the mentally ill

Mentally illness has affected countless artists over the centuries – Vincent van Gogh and Salvador Dali, to name just two – and all have used their art as their channel to reach out to society.

This therapeutic method was first used to expedite the recovery of trauma victims after World War II in hospitals in Britain, a method that was later adopted by the Americans because of its success.

In the US, this therapy was expanded by two art educators, Edith Kramer and Margareth Naumburg, and integrated with medical treatment in the Veteran Affairs New York Harbour Healthcare System.

Scientific studies on expressive therapy were soon initiated to examine the psychological nature of art.

“There have been questions as to how art could cut the time for healing. It was later found out that being in hospital added stress to the patient as a result of being away from family, work and the thought of paying the hospital bills. Art helped in relieving the tension,” says Monty P Satiadarma, the first certified Indonesian art therapist in clinical psychology, whose mentor was Robert E Ault, holder of a master of fine arts degree and co-founder of the American Art Therapy Association.

Satiadarma was educated in the leading speciality psychiatric hospital of the Menninger Foundation in Topeka, Kansas, which developed inventive therapeutic methods.

The foundation has since moved to Dallas.

He explains that neuroscience has found evidence of a relationship between art and the human limbic system, the brain. “When we draw or visualise something, we actually recollect memories and re-experience emotions that connect to the hypothalamus.”

The hypothalamus is an important area of the brain that links the endocrines and the nervous system, helping to control the pituitary gland particularly in response to stress.

According to Satiadarma, art, especially the visual arts, trigger the association process between memories and emotions and the values the person believes in.

As a result art helps to release pleasant, calming serotonin and oxytocin hormones.

Even if the artistic results appear horrifying for others to look at, the therapist says they have the same metabolic effect on the painter, relieving the tension as the person shares memories and emotions.

But as the results rely on the kind of association coming out, can art always be therapeutic?

“Not always without clinical psychology intervention,” Satiadarma admits.

This is where art therapists step in to diagnose mental conditions and to alternate the way the person channels their emotions.

“If a patient tends to paint flames, an art therapist could suggest the patient paint candlelight instead,” says Satiadarma, explaining that different painting techniques also have different psychological effects.

“You cannot allow someone with an anxiety disorder to colour an object repetitively because it may increase stress.”

The professor of Tarumanegara University in Jakarta leads the teaching of art therapy in the postgraduate programme of psychology studies, in which students are required to master arts and to take on clinical patients.

The Tarumanegara Art Therapy Community is currently holding a series of exhibitions and seminars on different topics through to April at the Oasis Heritage Restaurant on Jl Raden Saleh, Central Jakarta.

The art therapists exhibited their works in January side-by-side with the works of their patients and of the community of Bipolar Care Indonesia.

Two paintings in particular on display, done by a patient in the early period of treatment, depicted his imagination of hell.

The painter was a Balinese who had adult schizoid personality disorder and was living at Panti Sosial in Kedoya, West Jakarta, the Jakarta administration’s official rehabilitation home for the homeless and other less fortunate people.

“I took him on as a patient and he now lives as a painter back home in Bali,” said Annisa Prameswari, who was completing her postgraduate degree.

Unlike other patients who hide their identity in their works, Anindhita Lakshmi Ardhanarishvara, 27, enjoyed seeing her works included in the exhibition.

While making the abstract series of paintings, titled “Cotton Candy and Flower Bursts”, she said she let go of the baggage she had carried.

“I didn’t plan the paintings to be like these. I splashed paints on the canvas and I felt calm afterward,” said the student of interior design and who has been diagnosed as bipolar.

For most clinical cases, the patients are required to take regular medication.

“Art therapy is not a curative method but it promotes the improvement of well-being and personal development,” Satiadarma says.

Just hop on down

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Children play during the official reopening of the 'Nijntje Museum' (Miffy Museum) in Utrecht. Miffy is a small female rabbit character created by Dutch author and illustrator Dick Bruna. The museum has replaced the closed Dick Bruna House. / AFP

Children play during the official reopening of the ‘Nijntje Museum’ (Miffy Museum) in Utrecht. Miffy is a small female rabbit character created by Dutch author and illustrator Dick Bruna. The museum has replaced the closed Dick Bruna House. / AFP

Miffy the rabbit gets her own museums

To some she’s just a plain white bunny, to others she’s a prime example of minimalist art. But for six decades Miffy has been delighting young kids around the world, and now she’s getting a museum of her own.

After a two-year renovation project, what was formerly known as the Dick Bruna Huis (house) in the Centraal Museum of the Dutch city of Utrecht, is reopening this weekend as a bright, playful space dedicated to Miffy herself and carefully re-imagined as a hands-on experience for her young fans.

The original space devoted to Miffy’s creator – Dutch artist, author and graphic designer, Dick Bruna, who was born in Utrecht – opened in 2006 and drew some 50,000 visitors a year from all over the Netherlands, but also largely from Japan where she is a huge star.

But it was primarily more of an adult museum, packed full of a permanent collection of Bruna’s original drawings. And the question on every child’s lips was “where’s Miffy?” says curator Yolanda van den Berg.

So now children are getting an invitation to visit Miffy’s house – divided into 10 rooms designed specifically with kids in mind, where they can play and learn, and find out a little more about the man who created their idol.

Although she celebrated her 60th birthday in 2015, Miffy has changed very little down the years. Bruna wrote more than 120 picture books of which 32 are devoted just to Miffy.

Small and square, designed to fit little hands, each book tells a simple tale such as a outing to the zoo, a day at school or playing in the snow. They have sold more than 85 million copies and been translated into more than 52 languages, including Russian in 2011.

It is her endearing simplicity, along with her friends like Poppy the kind pig lady and Snuffy the dog, which has cemented the books’ universal appeal to pre-schoolers down the decades.

Miffy is a white girl bunny drawn with thick black outlines, pointy ears (although in her early days they were slightly more floppy), two dots for eyes, and an X for her mouth. She is always drawn against a background of bold primary colours, especially mixed for Bruna, mainly blue, green, yellow and what is known as “Bruna red”.

“What he wanted to do with his books was to create a safe world in which children can explore by themselves,” says Van den Berg. “And that’s what we’ve tried to do in the museum as well.”

Absent from the museum though are the computer animations and games seen in many exhibits today. “If it’s not a real experience, but a virtual one, it’s different,” says Van den Berg.

Bruna, 88, was born in Utrecht in 1927, and had been expected to follow his father’s footsteps and join the family publishing company, which was once the largest in the Netherlands.

But drawing and art were his first love, and during a long study tour in Paris in the 1940s he became heavily influenced by the works of French painters Henri Matisse and Fernand Leger.

Returning to Utrecht, he started drawing book covers for the novels published by the Bruna company.

It was during a family holiday in 1955 on the North Sea coast that he spotted a white rabbit hopping around the garden, and turned it into a drawing for his young son Sierk. Thus Miffy was born.

The simple pictograms in the Miffy books “have room for imagination and fantasy. They’re very clear lines,” says Evaline Reeskamp, education officer with the museum.

Bruna himself retired in 2011, and now the Utrecht museum has faithfully preserved his fastidiously neat, light-filled top floor studio where he worked for 30 years, and opened it up to the public to visit.

In celebration of South Asian art

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ANN

ANN

The third Dhaka art summit is declared a success

A sampling of South Asia’s most avant-garde arts went on display last week as the Bangladeshi capital played host to the third Dhaka Art Summit (DAS), which is billed as the biggest event for contemporary arts in South Asia.

As the largest non-commercial and research-based exhibition platform for South Asian Art, DAS offered a cornucopia of diverse arts including paintings, video, installation, photography, performance, architecture, film, critical writing and panel discussion.

The event, which ran from February 5 through Monday, saw more than 600 global art connoisseurs, curators, researchers, critics and enthusiasts turn out for the event along with 300 leading artists, curators, and writers from across South Asia.

“To develop DAS as a research platform, we invited curators from different institutions like Tate Modern, Centre Pompidou, the Guggenheim, and the Kunsthalle Zurich to extend their work deeper into South Asia. Works from the National Gallery archive, the National Museum of Bangladesh, and various private collections are also on display at the exhibition,” said Nadia Samdani, president of the co-organiser, Samdani Art Foundation.

“Many enigmatic things happen around us and we don’t know the reasons for them. Some images simply evoke pure joy and a sense of beauty in our hearts,” said actor, entertainer and politician Asaduzzaman Noor,

“This inexplicable yet easily communicable feeling helps us understand art. We are proud to be a part of the world’s largest display of South Asian art in Bangladesh thanks to the noble initiative of the SAF. The DAS offers a unique opportunity for artistic exchange and interaction between our artists and the artists of the world. I think, this exchange will help our arts and artists reach beyond border,” he added.

The six curated exhibitions at DAS included 17 “Solo Projects”, curated by the SAF’s artistic director Diana Campbell Betancourt; “Rewind” (highlighting 12 South-Asian master artists active before the 1980s); “The Missing One”, curated by Nada Raza; “Mining Warm Data” curated by Diana Campbell Betancourt; “Architecture in Bangladesh”, curated by Aurlien Lemonier; “Performance Pavilion: Shifting Sands Sifting Hands”, curated by Nikhil Chopra, Madhavi Gore and Jana Prepeluh; and “Soul Searching”, curated by Md Muniruzzaman.

There were also durational performances, films, panel discussions, book launches, a children’s workshop and a critical writing ensemble held in collaboration with the Office of Contemporary Art Norway and Pro Helvetia-Swiss Arts Council.

“Through the showcase of art and its diverse facets in this platform, Bangladeshi art reaches the international arena, augmenting country’s image. I hope the number of foreign tourists will double at the 2018 summit,” said Civil Aviation and Tourism Minister Rashed Khan Menon.

DAS was organised in conjunction with Unesco’s celebration of February 21 as the International Mother Language Day, which was initiated in 1999. This year, a sculpture based on the Language Movement by Mrinal Haque is on a month-long display in front of the United Nations in New York.

“This is the best and the largest art summit of Asia and we take great pride in it. We will continue to support it all the way,” said Ama Muhit, the Bangladeshi finance minister who is also an art connoisseur.

Doing laps with the Lahu

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FASHION

Kim Jones, centre, with models wearing his latest collection for Louis Vitton. It is inspired in part by clothing of the indigenous people of northern Thailand. Nation/Tanachai Pramarnpanich

Kim Jones, centre, with models wearing his latest collection for Louis Vitton. It is inspired in part by clothing of the indigenous people of northern Thailand. Nation/Tanachai Pramarnpanich

The track-suit jacket is inspired by the clothing of the Lahu people in northern Thailand. Nation/Tanachai Pramarnpanich

The track-suit jacket is inspired by the clothing of the Lahu people in northern Thailand. Nation/Tanachai Pramarnpanich

The black pattern motif on a limited-edition jacket. Nation/Tanachai Pramarnpanich

The black pattern motif on a limited-edition jacket. Nation/Tanachai Pramarnpanich

Hilltribe clothing lends its influence to the latest line of men’s wear from Louis Vuitton

Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director in charge of men’s ready-to-wear, has been to Thailand six times, including a visit to Chiang Rai, and it shows in his spring-summer collection, which bears some inspiration from the Lahu hilltribe.

One sporty red-white-and-blue shirt in particular is named the Embroidered Lahu Blouson.

Jones was in Bangkok last week to open a pop-up store at Siam Paragon, which will pop back down again this Sunday, so you have to hurry.

“This collection takes in all of Southeast Asia, and Thailand is a key area,” he said. Jones was quite taken with the outfits worn by the Lahu of the northern hills and by how “modern” they seemed for an ethnic group so steeped in the traditions of the past.

A keen traveller – ably matching the spirit of Louis Vuitton, with its retail base in luggage – Jones has been with the firm since 2011 and, in the year before conceiving this collection, made his way through 15 countries.

The British-born designer was only three months old when he first ventured abroad – when his family visited Ecuador. There were childhood stays in Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania and Botswana, as well as the Caribbean, between residences in London.

By age 14, Jones had decided he wanted a “creative” career and considered graphic art and photography before discovering he could “build a world around” fashion. He earned a master’s degree in men’s wear at London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.

He’s been developing clothing lines geared to travel ever since. “But rather than looking at one destination, this season I decided to look at travelling all round the world,” Jones said.

“The world traveller these days picks things up wherever he goes and makes them his own. In this collection we’re using many ideas and techniques from Southeast Asia – from Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. At the same time we wanted to look at how these styles are actually shared globally.

“Traditional Lahu clothing looks a lot like contemporary sportswear. Fashion is a language that reflects different cultures and ‘tribes’ globally, from New York, Tokyo and Bangkok to Paris, and Louis Vuitton is really a part of that.

“The key idea,” Jones said, “is using silk for men and things like animal prints, just giving a little bit of a youthful feel, but in a sophisticated way.”

The results include a pyjama shirt in printed silk, a slim scarf bearing a red crane or a blue panther, and match-up sneakers. There’s a satin T-shirt with a baseball motif that looks great with micro-textured slacks, and indigo-dyed cotton jeans and blended-twill trousers.

Wildlife prints adorn a satin “souvenir jacket” – embroidered cranes, birds of paradise, monkeys – and the blouson has embroidered stripes resembling the stitched and woven geometric patterns of Lahu clothing.

The collection, Jones emphasised, celebrates global similarities in style rather than differences. Traditional and contemporary ideas are transposed and transformed, from the mountains of Thailand to America’s Ivy League.

Jones looked at the ways people around the world identify themselves, from the jackets a tourist chooses as souvenirs to timeless luxury items. Vuitton strives to extend the “clothing remix”, he said.

Traditional, intricately striped Thai embroidery echoes contemporary sportswear along with the personalised stripes of the LV Monogram. In silhouette, the national costumes of Southeast Asia reflect the large volume of the American baseball jersey. Track pants are rendered in embroidered silk.

Light, organza-bonded leatherwear features taped seams, echoing utilitarian waterproofed clothing of the past, and it’s even reversible. Indigo provides the global, unifying colour in everything from the hand-dyed and sun-dried Kobe leather used in American flight jackets to silk-mix denims and printed silk parkas printed with “brushstroke” camouflage patterns.

Even the pearl accessories have been lavishly treated with indigo – while the pearl was still forming in the shell.

The Vuitton Monogram bag becomes lighter than ever thanks to new ultra-supple canvas. Textured Epi leather is used in footwear this season, as well as in the usual, structured maroquinerie. And Taiga leather has been reintroduced both for footwear and bags, adding another layer of texture.

The souvenir jacket incorporates a black leopard print, and Jones designed another one in a limited edition – five pieces exclusively made for sale in Thailand for Bt130,000 each – and they were all quickly sold.

Style means “knowing who you are”, he said. “It’s everything when you’re building identity. A designer is telling a story, right? He’s providing people with very special information – how I want to be seen, where I want to be right now, who I am.”

Jones pointed out that Vuitton is one of the biggest brands of its kind in the world, “looking at things that any man from 20 to 60 can wear. We do a lot of different collections in 12 years.

“The challenge is keeping your eye on what’s going on in the digital world and finding out how you can improve on that. Trends happen, after all, because journalists pick out certain things in different collections. The themes are concurrent with the seasons, because people have the same feelings and moods.

“I plan one season at a time. Continuity is very important to our customers, but at the same time they expect something fresh each season. I’ve been working for Louis Vuitton for five years and the way men shop today is very different from what it was then, which is cool!”

 

If you can’t meditate, you can always litigate

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Sangthong Phensrisai

Sangthong Phensrisai

Technically speaking, Buddhist monks really shouldn’t be suing people in court

Several British newspapers have nevertheless scented enough Buddhism (and monkishness) in the story to be covering the hearings in Scotland.

Santhong, born in Thailand and now living in Edinburgh, is suing Anong Yukitan, born in Thailand and now living in London, because she was driving a bunch of monks from her city to Santhong’s city on Christmas Eve 2012 and had a crash.

Anong admits being liable for losing control of the car but doesn’t think she should have to pay Santhong 250,000 pounds (Bt12.9 million). Santhong thinks she does because now he can’t sit down to do sitting meditation anymore. And that means he can’t teach people to do sitting meditation anymore, so he’s losing income.

The small matter of the three monks riding in the back seat being killed seems to have no bearing on their dispute. Nor does the 25 years Santhong spent as a monk, during which he patently failed to learn the wisdom of non-attachment.

Santhong – who shed the robes to further his academic studies – says he was asleep at the time of the crash and just kept on sleeping until he woke up in hospital with various fractures and head injuries.

He says the accident disrupted his PhD studies and – since he’s unable to sit, stand or walk for long and can’t bend or lift heavy items – he’s lost earnings as a translator and interpreter and for work in the prison service. He taught meditation to prisoners. He was used to sitting for up to three hours at a time.

Somewhere the Buddha is wincing along with him, but for other reasons.

Royal baby adds to GNH

Bhutan’s queen – Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema – gave birth to a son on Friday, presumably much to the delight of her husband, King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, who’s so much admired in Thailand. And the infant boy has already contributed to the country’s famed “Gross National Happiness” index in more ways than one.

Presumably the queen chose to do so with the aid of an epidural injection and presumably she appreciated the painless method because now epidurals are being offered to all expectant mums in Bhutan for free. We say “presumably” a lot because the Bhutan newspaper Kuensel is unclear on the details, presumably out of deference to the monarchy.

What is clear is that two doctors and two nurses from Bhutan are now in Bangkok being trained to administer epidural labour analgesia, which relieves pain during delivery. Basically it’s a shot in the lower spine that deadens the nerves long enough for baby to slip out without infuriating the mum right off the bat.

Thimphu National Referral Hospital medical superintendent Dr Gosar Pemba says the epidural analgesia is “a gift from Queen Jetsun Pema”, according to Kuensel, and “its introduction in the country may coincide with the birth of the royal couple’s firstborn”.

Epidural analgesia isn’t actually new to Bhutan, but until now it’s only been administered on request and in cases where childbirth was proving unusually difficult.

Stars, migrant crisis in focus at Berlin film fest

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Stars-migrant-crisis-in-focus-at-Berlin-film-fest-30278800.html

BERLIN FILM FEST 2016

The director of the Berlinale film festival Dieter Kosslick  Photo/AFP

The director of the Berlinale film festival Dieter Kosslick Photo/AFP

Movies starring Colin Firth, Kirsten Dunst and Emma Thompson will vie for gold at the 66th Berlin film festival starting Thursday, with Meryl Streep as jury president and a spotlight on Europe’s refugee crisis.

The 11-day event, Europe’s first major cinema showcase of the year, will start with a gala screening of “Hail, Caesar!” with US directors Joel and Ethan Coen and stars George Clooney, Channing Tatum and Tilda Swinton expected on the red carpet in the wintry German capital.

The competition will kick off the following day, with 18 films from around the world gunning for the Golden Bear top prize, which Streep’s seven-member panel will award on February 20.

Last year, top honours went to Iranian dissident director Jafar Pahahi, whose innovative “Taxi” had to be filmed in secret in a Tehran cab.

Among the most-anticipated pictures this year is “Genius”, the feature debut by British theatre director Michael Grandage starring Oscar winner Firth as literary editor Max Perkins, who published some of the 20th century’s greatest American writers.

Jude Law plays writer Thomas Wolfe, Nicole Kidman his lover and muse Aline Bernstein, with Dominic West portraying Ernest Hemingway and Guy Pearce as F. Scott Fitzgerald.

Also generating buzz ahead of the festival is a new adaptation of the international bestseller “Alone in Berlin”, Hans Fallada’s 1947 novel which is based on a true story.

The Nazi-era thriller sees Thompson and Irish actor Brendan Gleeson play a working-class German couple who mount a daring resistance campaign after losing their only son in the war.

Another first feature, “Hedi” by Tunisian filmmaker Mohamed Ben Attia, tells a love story set in the aftermath of the Arab Spring. It will be the first film made entirely in the Arab world to appear in competition in Berlin in two decades.

“The overarching theme this year is the right to happiness – the right to a home, to love, to self-determination, to life and to survival,” festival director Dieter Kosslick told reporters.

US director Jeff Nichols, who built a reputation with independent hits such as “Mud” and “Take Shelter”, will present the sci-fi thriller “Midnight Special” with his frequent star Michael Shannon, Dunst and Adam Driver of “Star Wars: The Force Awakens”.

It tells the story of a man racing to protect his gifted young son from a religious cult leader and government agents.

French veteran Andre Techine will present a new drama, “Being 17”, while Oscar-winning Bosnian director Danis Tanovic will premiere “Death in Sarajevo” based on a play by French philosopher Bernard-Henri Levy.

Also in the main line-up are two documentaries, Alex Gibney’s “Zero Days” about the threat posed by cybersecurity breaches, and “Fire at Sea” by Italian director Gianfranco Rosi, winner of the Venice film festival’s 2013 Golden Lion.

Rosi spent months on the Mediterranean island of Lampedusa to tell the story of a community on the front line of Europe’s largest influx of migrants since World War II.

Meanwhile, a more than eight-hour-long Filipino movie, “A Lullaby to the Sorrowful Mystery”, promises to test the stamina of even hard-core movie buffs.

Refugees will play a major role on screen and off at the Berlinale, which began as a Cold War-era window on the world for embattled West Berlin.

“Since 1951, the Berlinale has been doing its bit to promote peace among peoples and this year is no different,” Kosslick said.

More than a dozen films in the festival’s sprawling sidebar sections will focus on people fleeing war and repression, while organisers have planned a range of initiatives to help asylum seekers, 1.1 million of whom arrived in Germany last year.

They include invitations to attend screenings in the company of local volunteers to foster cultural exchange, internships with the Berlinale management, a street food van staffed by refugees and donation drives at the festival’s gala events.

“We believe we need to engage with the reality around us and not just have a laugh on the red carpet,” Kosslick said.

Critic Jan Schulz-Ojala, who has covered the festival for two decades for Berlin’s daily Tagesspiegel, said he thought the high-profile event was coming at just the right time, with Europe bitterly divided over the refugee question.

“You’re seeing a rollback in Germany of the welcome mat for refugees and a rise of far-right groups,” he told AFP.

“The Berlinale has a chance to look at this issue from a different perspective than you see in the news, and the art of cinema can help fight against knee-jerk reactions.”

Main line-up at 66th Berlin film festival

The 66th Berlinale, Europe’s first major film festival of the year, starts Thursday with 23 international productions screening in the main showcase.

Eighteen pictures will vie for the Golden Bear top prize at the event which runs from February 11 to 21, with a jury led by three-time Oscar winner Meryl Streep selecting the best film. Nineteen of the main features are world premieres and two are directors’ feature debuts.

The Berlinale Special sidebar section features other notable films that are given gala screenings.

Here is the complete list including the English title, director, well-known stars and countries where the films were produced:

“24 Wochen” (24 Weeks), Anne Zohra Berrached, Germany

“Alone in Berlin”, Vincent Perez starring Emma Thompson and Brendan Gleeson, Germany/France/Britain

“Boris sans Beatrice” (Boris without Beatrice), Denis Cote, Canada

“Cartas da guerra” (Letters from War), Ivo M. Ferreira, Portugal

“Chang Jiang Tu” (Crosscurrent), Yang Chao, China

“Chi-Raq”, Spike Lee starring Jennifer Hudson and Angela Bassett, US (out of competition)

“Des nouvelles de la planete Mars” (News from Planet Mars), Dominik Moll, France/Belgium (out of competition)

“Ejhdeha Vared Mishavad!” (A Dragon Arrives!), Mani Haghighi, Iran

“Fuocoammare” (Fire at Sea), Gianfranco Rosi, Italy/France (documentary)

“Genius”, Michael Grandage starring Colin Firth, Jude Law, Nicole Kidman, Laura Linney and Guy Pearce, Britain/US (debut film)

“Hail, Caesar!” Joel and Ethan Coen starring Josh Brolin, George Clooney, Ralph Fiennes, Jonah Hill, Scarlett Johansson, Frances McDormand, Tilda Swinton and Channing Tatum, US/Britain (out of competition)

“Hele Sa Hiwagang Hapis” (A Lullaby to the Sorrowful Mystery), Lav Diaz, Philippines/Singapore

“Inhebbek Hedi” (Hedi), Mohamed Ben Attia, Tunisia/Belgium/France (debut film)

“Kollektivet” (The Commune), Thomas Vinterberg, Denmark/Sweden/Netherlands

“L’avenir” (Things to Come), Mia Hansen-Love starring Isabelle Huppert, France/Germany

“Mahana” (The Patriarch), Lee Tamahori, New Zealand (out of competition)

“Midnight Special”, Jeff Nichols starring Michael Shannon, Joel Edgerton, Kirsten Dunst and Adam Driver, US

“Quand on a 17 ans” (Being 17), Andre Techine starring Sandrine Kiberlain, France

“Saint Amour”, Benoit Delepine and Gustave Kervern starring Gerard Depardieu, France/Belgium (out of competition)

“Smrt u Sarajevu” (Death in Sarajevo), Danis Tanovic, France/Bosnia

“Soy Nero”, Rafi Pitts, Germany/France/Mexico

“Zero Days”, Alex Gibney, US (documentary)

“Zjednoczone Stany Milosci” (United States of Love), Tomasz Wasilewski, Poland/Sweden

BERLINALE SPECIAL HIGHLIGHTS

“A Quiet Passion”, Terence Davies starring Cynthia Nixon as reclusive poet Emily Dickinson, Britain/Belgium

“Creepy”, Kiyoshi Kurosawa, Japan

“Den allvarsamma leken” (A Serious Game), Pernilla August, Sweden/Denmark/Norway

“Miles Ahead”, Don Cheadle starring Cheadle as Miles Davis and co-starring Ewan McGregor, US

“National Bird”, Sonia Kennebeck, US

“The Music of Strangers: Yo-Yo Ma and the Silk Road Ensemble”, Morgan Neville, US (documentary)

“The Seasons in Quincy: Four Portraits of John Berger”, Colin MacCabe, Christopher Roth, Bartek Dziadosz and Tilda Swinton, Britain (documentary)

“Where To Invade Next”, Michael Moore, US (documentary)