THE LIFESTYLE of travellers and explorers over the last 160 years is being narrated in a new exhibition showing at Parc Paragon in downtown Bangkok.

“Time Capsule Bangkok” digs deep into the archives of Louis Vuitton for this showcase of rare and celebrated objects dating back to its establishment in 1854 while demonstrating the ways in which Louis Vuitton has anticipated the needs and desires of a changing world over the decades.

Running through September 25, “Time Capsule” has also brought French artisans to Bangkok to demonstrate traditional leatherwork skills that remain as relevant today as they were in the past century. The exhibition follows a visual timeline of landmark moments in the Louis Vuitton story and focuses on five key aspects of that journey: The Codes of the House, Journeys around the World, Elegance and Beauty in motion, Icons of the House, and A Celebration of Louis Vuitton’s Past and Present Links with Thailand.

Highlighting the ongoing technical innovations that Louis Vuitton has employed in responding to the needs of its customers, the exhibition blends antique creations with more contemporary pieces, all the time highlighting the brand’s determination to create and reinvent objects that anticipate the evolution of lifestyle needs and desires.

Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana made a private visit to the exhibition on the opening day and was warmly welcomed by Louis Vuitton executives Anthony Ledru, Christopher Kilaniotis and Laurent Barrere.

Several distinguished guests and celebrities also turned out for the opening, among them Chadatip Chutrakul, Supaluck Umpujh, ML Piyapas Bhirombhakdi, Nualphan Lamsam, MR Srikhumrung Yukol, Noppadol Baholyodhin, Thananya Thanakitamnuay and Kongpat Jiramaneekul. Celebrities spotted in the crowd included Urassaya Sperbund, Natapohn Tameeruks, Mario Maurer, Pachara Chirathivat, Guun Svasti and Naphat Siangsomboon.

Despite growing into a global concern, the brand has remained faithful to the spirit of its founder, Louis Vuitton and his “Art of Travel”. This is evidenced as much by the craftsmen who do so much of the work by hand as a section of the exhibition devoted to the innovative trunks and the hardware that went their marking. This includes the wood used for the hard-sided luggage, the metal components that protect the corners of each trunk, the multi-tumbler lock, and the metal straps reinforcing the frame. Also on show are the durable coated canvas and refined leathers unique to Louis Vuitton and the inimitable patterns that decorated them such as the Grey Traianon, the beige and red stripes, the Damier and the Monogram, as well as the Malletage.

The Journeys section, meanwhile, displays the evolution of travel modes through a rail travel trunk, car trunk, roof trunk, and the Driver’s bag as well as the Steamer Bag, and the Cabin Trunk for air travel.

“Elegance in Motion” presents the brand’s expertise in the art of packing and crafted custom-made items to hold bottles of whiskey, perfume, board games, make-up, jewellery, and grooming tools.

Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with noted artists including Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, Yayoi Kusama and Jeff Koons is also showcased, as are its past and present links with Thailand including the special order “Boite Flacon” in Yellow Epi produced in 2006 to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s accession to the Throne and the special order Watch Trunks designed by HRH Princess Sirivannavari in collaboration with Louis Vuitton to raise fund for the Chaipattana Foundation in 2008.

The last room is reserved for the Magic Malle, an immersive environment that takes the visitor on a visual journey from the first trunk produced through the invention and evolution of the coated canvas to the opening of the Foundation Louis Vuitton.

But no matter in which room the visitor chooses to linger, all the carefully created products pay testament to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to fine craftsmanship and explain why it remains a favourite haunt of travellers worldwide.

n Find out more about the Louis Vuitton Time Capsule exhibition in Bangkok at http://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/articles/time-capsule-exhibition-in-bangkok and eu.louisvuitton.com

TOM FORD opened New York Fashion Week in throwback ‘90s sequin glory, kicking off the spring/summer 2018 season and looking to silence criticism that the bi-annual style fest is losing its mojo.

More than 230,000 people flood America’s cultural capital to attend the September and February editions, where hundreds of shows, deals and parties contribute nearly $900 million a year to the city.

Ford, the 56-year-old, Texan-born, movie-making designer transformed Manhattan’s Park Avenue Armory into an intimate, pink runway that hosted A-list guests such as Kim Kardashian, actress Julianne Moore, and 1990s supermodels Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen.

Ford sent down the runway models in blush sequin tops, cropped micro hemlines, sharply tailored jackets and body suits with plunging necklines and hip-high cut outs. Colours were neutrals and hot pink.

The show segued immediately into pumping after party to launch his new fragrance “F***ing Fabulous” with buff, shirtless waiters in sports shorts handing out drinks and burgers.

It was a bold start to a fashion week that officially kicked off last Thursday, under a cloud of stellar designers fleeing to Europe, debate about its relevancy and confusion even about what time of year it is.

American dream met American nightmare as Belgian Raf Simons, formerly of Christian Dior, soaked up the love for his second outing at Calvin Klein, the iconic label he’s revamping to adulation.

In a nod to past and present, Cindy Crawford’s 16-year-old daughter Kaia Gerber, treading in the footsteps of her supermodel mother, made her runway debut for the 2018 collection, watched from the front row by Brooke Shields, the label’s most famous teen model in the 1980s.

Also watching was Paris Jackson, only daughter of Michael, and Oscar-winning actor Mahershala Ali, best known for Hollywood movie “Moonlight” about an African-American gay man growing up in Miami.

“It’s about American horror and American beauty,” said Simons, whom the label hired last year and in June became the first person since Klein himself to be honoired by the Council of Fashion Designers of America as best women’s and menswear designer in one year.

“Fashion tries to hide the horror and embrace only beauty. But they are both a part of life. This collection is a celebration of that: a celebration of American life,” he added.

Considered one of the finest designers of his generation, the 49-year-old has the rare skill of preserving the unique DNA of Calvin Klein – its androgynous-style suiting in particular – and yet making it fresh.

The room at Calvin Klein’s headquarters in the Garment District was again decked out in artwork by Ruby Sterling this time entitled “Sophomore” conjuring up the idea of Americana through jack-o-lanterns, pick axes and cheerleading pom-poms dangling from the ceiling.

It was naughty and nice; sexy and demure; dramatic and innocent; feminine and androgynous while remaining minimalist and urban.

Full-skirted, 1950s-style silhouettes were reimagined in nylon, rubber from Ohio and hand-painted leather.

There were nods to the label’s history of transgressive sexuality, plenty of orange, yellow, black and red, and a selection of prints from that most famous of American 20th century artists: Andy Warhol.

There were red patent leather cowboy boots, and matching pants and shirts worn together that created an elongated, seamless silhouette.

A red and white coat almost appeared almost blood-stained, a prom dress was fashioned in the black bin liner look and demure tight pencil skirts were sexed up with long burgundy latex gloves.

For the evening there were cheerleader’s pom pom-style tassel dresses that flounced with abandon as the model slinked down the catwalk, and exaggerated pom-pom style drooping bags.

Simons, who also has his own label, was previously best known for breathing life into Dior after John Galliano was fired in 2012 following an outcry over anti-Semitic insults he made in a Paris bar.

A silhouette of Shields, who modelled for Calvin Klein in the 1980s and famously uttered: “You wanna know what comes between me and my Calvin’s? Nothing” is stamped on the back of the label’s new jeans.

Tory Burch took over the catwalks on Friday with an upbeat collection of bold color and geometric print hoping to off-set troubled political times with a little escapism.

The doyenne of preppy chic worked to create an English garden in the grounds of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, a bucolic backdrop for a fresh and buoyant collection.

British-American actress Emily Blunt was guest of honour and the 2018 spring/summer clothes situated Burch’s signature uptown luxe in the insouciant atmosphere of a garden party or weekend away.

“We need that,” the designer and former Hillary Clinton donor said after the show, admitting herself to be as inwardly “not upbeat.”

“I have to compartmentalise because I care deeply about what’s happening in our country but I also need to find joy in the way we live our life,” Burch added.

“Certainly I feel our collection is about joy and happiness. Not disregarding the sadness of what’s happening around, but how do we all come together not be divisive.”

The inspiration came from late English interior designer David Hicks, who made carpets for Windsor Castle and decorated the Prince of Wales’ first apartment at Buckingham Palace, before working in New York.

“What I wanted to do is to reference him but not be referential. I wanted to put a modern take on it,” she said, adding that she was also coming round more and more to the idea of “less is more” and experimenting.

“I think women kind of want to experiment with colour. It’s hard in print but how do you do it in a way that gives people a chance to do that, not always wear black.”

On Sunday Victoria Beckham put her once-beloved black firmly in the shade, swapping it for the colours of Play-Doh and for sparkly slippers named after her daughter.

“It’s Play-Doh, it’s ice cream but it’s not too saccharine,” she said of the new colours. It’s not too sweet at all. It’s just the right amount.”

Guests were welcomed on the beautiful late summer morning with tall, chilled glasses of ginger-and-peppermint iced tea, before being ushered to their seats.

“It feels fresh and happy. I love the sparkly shoes; I’m obsessed with the Harper slipper,” the 43-year-old former Spice Girl said, wearing high-waisted jeans and a white T-shirt.

“I’m a bit of a magpie. I love a little bit of sparkle,” she added when a reporter asked whether dressing her daughter had changed how she designed.

Her statement shoes were sequinned silver-and-green sparkly heels paired with daywear, and silver sparkly flat sandals with more monochrome dresses better suited to evening.

Beckham prides herself on making clothes that are wearable; she said she had concentrated on lightness and layering for high-end customers who travel a lot.

There were tailored skinny pants, ruffles at the throat on filmy silk shirts, the most delicate of inlaid prints, long hemlines, low-slung skirts and dresses so filmy they were near see-through.

The pistachio, peach-rose and pale purple colours freshened up her more customary black and white, with splashes of red. There was also liberal use of very fine, delicate check.

“It reminds me of being at school, doing a maths exam,” she said of the check. “It feels like graph paper, that was the inspiration, a little bit of a menswear feel.”

“I used to wear so much black, and I really enjoy wearing colour – it makes me feel really happy,” she said.

The store offers the autumn-winter collection that was inspired by actress Katharine Hepburn’s fearless, irreverent character in “The Philadelphia Story”. Outdoorsy looks take on glamorous accents in outfits exuding confident femininity but also a distinct masculinity.

There’s a blouse with an exaggerated bow top and a sporty bomber paired with a pleated skirt. Sweaters and cardigans have a nostalgic appeal. Jumpsuits and long-sleeved gowns epitomise tomboy chic.

Winter white and black complement a warm palette of gold, camel, rust, port, grassland green and bold blue.

Old-school checks and plaids balance chintz-style floral patterns and a whimsical ballerina print references the paintings of Edgar Degas.

Classic materials are updated with an unexpected twist. A plaid is interpreted in different ways, from wool to shearling to silk threaded with Lurex yarn.

Floral appliques, corduroy straps, pearl buttons and oversized monograms inspired by Burch’s father, Buddy, bring rich texture to traditional materials, like tweed, silk and velvet.

Prints and fabricated materials carry through to accessories. Elegant heels take on mannish details such as loafer-like fringes and broguing. An unstructured briefcase is printed with the first stanza of CP Cavafy’s poem “Ithaka” in homage to Burch’s family history.

Delicate earrings and industrial rings round out the collection.

The logo has been redesigned in a graphic version or enriched with trims and patches. Cut-out effects and new cuts personalise the shape with a mix of activewear and more sophisticated styles.

The bomber and blazer sizes are bold. Jumpers with sparkling textures are worn with ripped skinny jeans and thick shoes.

Multiple solutions of outerwear are key, from faux-shearling jackets to quilted down and waterproof cape jackets, and from padded parkas to maxi coats.

The colour palette includes neutral and dusty tones juxtaposed with red, blossom pink, amber green, royal blue, burgundy red, blue and ever-present black and white.

The strong wish to break rules drives a style that is constantly reflecting freedom and individuality.

The new collection is available at A|X Armani Exchange boutiques at Siam Center, the EmQuartier, Central Festival Pattaya Beach and Central Festival Phuket.

The silhouette is a deconstruction of unique shapes, resulting in a final piece that embraces new perspectives such as the one-shoulder, off-shoulder or cape blouse, all of which define the main identity of Asava. The integration of layering into sleeveless tops further creates a distinctive dimension. More interesting looks include Tulip line, fit and flare, and asymmetrical.

The primary fabric used in the collection is the soft and lightweight moss crepe with satin polyester enhancing the stylish sway. Also highlighted are cotton lace and organza, bringing a touch of femininity to every outfit. The colour palette is typically Asava with white, black, beige, grey and ivory contrasted with zephyr blue and red.

Pleated skirts and scarf collars add sophistication to classic shapes both for day and evening wear.

The brand was founded in 2004 by Dennis Chan, a talented jewellery designer from Hong Kong who’s fascinated by China’s art and culture and its magnificent history, and who draws on the stories of good luck charms in Chinese legends as the main concept for his designs. Qeelin is one of the brands under the Paris-based Kering Group, which also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Boucheron and more.

The first collection “Xi Xi” features the Chinese lion and symbolises joy, glory and wealth.  Inspired by the Tang Dynasty and Qianlong Emperor, it boasts a Rose Gold body embellished with diamond, pink sapphires, and onyx. The second collection is “Bo Bo” featuring the panda, a symbol of peace and friendship, and makes the perfect gift during special festivals. Its white gold body is embellished with shimmering diamonds and precious gems.

The “Yu Yi” collection has a minimal yet elegant design, inspired by the ancient Chinese accessory of the cloud-shaped lock representing longevity peace and, love. Also available is Qeelin’s sought after “Wu Lu” collection, designed in a form of bottle gourd that looks similar to number 8 , the Chinese lucky number that brings luck and fortune.  Two designs are available: Couture Wu Lu, a pair of single fine-cut diamond earrings with a white gold body and Solid Wulu, a 38-inch long necklace embellished with diamonds in the bottle gourd shape, and red agate in a zigzag pattern on a rose gold body.

The brand has been brought to Thailand by Dr Thitiporn Sanguanpiyapan of Sette Peccati and is available only at the Sette Peccati boutique at Siam Paragon.

“Qeelin means kylin, a dragon-headed unicorn which is a creature of luck in Chinese mythology. I personally like jewellery and accessories that are deemed to bring luck. When I had an opportunity to see the craftsmanship of the brand, I felt it would be perfect for Thai ladies who like to wearing jewellery with symbolic meaning,” Thitiporn explained.

The All Hours Primer (Bt2,500) is a flawless base that withstands intense scrutiny, up close and personal, and guarantees a matte, crease-free complexion around the clock.

All Hours Foundation (Bt2,500), best applied with the new applicator “Eponge Teint” (Bt790), is YSL Beaute’s first night-proof foundation that stays put all hours. Waterproof and transfer-resistant, it’s as flawless at the end of the night as it was when you first applied it in the morning, with no need for touch-ups.

With 22 shade options from light to dark, the oil-free formula keeps the complexion shine-free and with a matte finish, minimising the appearance of pores and leaving skin looking porcelain smooth.

The US doyenne of preppy chic confected an English garden in the grounds of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, a bucolic backdrop for a fresh and buoyant collection.

With British-American actress Emily Blunt as guest of honor, the 2018 spring/summer clothes situated Burch’s signature uptown luxe in the insouciant atmosphere of a garden party or weekend away.

“We need that,” the designer and former Hillary Clinton donor told AFP after the show, admitting herself to be inwardly “not upbeat.”

“I have to compartmentalize because I care deeply about what’s happening in our country but I also need to find joy in the way we live our life,” Burch added.

“Certainly I feel our collection is about joy and happiness. Not disregarding the sadness of what’s happening around, but how do we all come together not be divisive.”

Not only has the New York design firmament been up in arms over Donald Trump, but fashion week comes as millions of Americans prepared to evacuate Florida to escape the barrelling onslaught of Hurricane Irma.

Burch’s inspiration came from late English interior designer David Hicks, who made carpets for Windsor Castle and once decorated for the Prince of Wales at Buckingham Palace, before working in New York.

Here is a look at some of the other designers who exhibited Friday:

Inclusivity

Continuing the theme of trouble and division, young designer Matthew Adams Dolan — best known for dressing Barbadian superstar Rihanna — said his collection meditated “on what it has meant to be American in the past and what it will mean to be American in the future.”

He blended elements of both a picturesque United States and what he called “something more sinister” beneath the polished veneer, with nods, among others to the movies “American Psycho” and “Cruel Intentions.”

In times of “relentless civil unrest and widening political divides,” his program notes told the audience he wanted to “reimagine a modern American working wardrobe for an inclusive and celebratory generation.”

Petal sleeves

Indian-born Bibhu Mohapatra, who has dressed Michelle Obama, delivered spring/summer with a Japanese-twist, wowing his loyal admirers with stunning tops and skirts named after classical Kabuki theater.

Making plentiful use of stripes, embroidery and beautiful tailoring, he showcased modest looks that clothed models neck to toe, a hint of sexiness in long, partially see-through lace sleeves.

For evening, it was all glamor with a sensational silk Mikado dress with origami petal sleeves, opening from the bust like a flower.

He summed up his woman as “an intrepid spirit that craved for cultural knowledge and courageous adventure that transcended continents.”

Oysters

Deborah Lloyd, president and chief creative officer of Kate Spade summed its look as a “little bit more unbuttoned, a little easier” at a presentation at the landmark Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.

It came just four months after handbag maker Coach announced it had reached a deal to buy Kate Spade for $2.4 billion as it seeks to move into the label’s popularity among the millennial market.

New Orleans was the theme with romantic and airy clothes, liberal use of florals and pastels combined with smart and sober jeans, university-style jackets.

Italian job

Top-flight US talent such as Altuzarra, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler may have fled to Europe, but New York is still the dream for at least one up-and-coming Italian designer.

GCDS — aka “God Can’t Destroy Streetwear” — unveiled a fun, flirty fantasy inspired by Truman Capote’s novel “The Swans of Fifth Avenue” in making his New York runway debut.

Giuliano Calza, 28, founded the luxury, made-in-Italy brand only two years ago in his garage but has already found famous fans such as Kendall Jenner and Hailey Baldwin.

“Milan is fun, it’s my town… but still New York is the dream,” Calza told AFP before a show that showcased low-slung sweat pants, plenty of under-boob, high-waisted knickers and sophisticated cropped knits.