I WASN’T sure what to expect when I was invited recently to spend two days and one night at Ban Laem Homestay in Nakhon Si Thammarat. But within minutes of arriving, I knew it was going to be an experience I would treasure for a long time. Warmly welcomed by the amiable villagers, the atmosphere was like being at a friend’s home – a place where you can kick back and relax without judgement.

Fishermen at work in the Golden Bay. /Courtesy of Local Alike.

Located in the Golden Bay area of Tha Sala district, this hamlet is luring visitors with cosy accommodation, tantalising seafood meals and several fun activities that allow guests to experience the lifestyles of this Muslim fishing community and learn more about marine ecosystems.

Ban Laem Homestay is being promoted as a model of sustainable community with an enhanced standard of hospitality. It is part of the “Happy Home Happy Stay” project, a collaboration between The Erawan Group and Local Alike.

“The Erawan Group operates more than 60 properties both in Thailand and the Philippines. In 2016, we initiated the ‘Happy Home Happy Stay’ project, aiming to share our hospitality and management experience to develop communities. We travelled around the country looking for the type of strong communities we could help grow sustainably,” says Petch Krainukul, the group’s president.

“Ban Laem Homestay is a pilot project. We picked this village because it has beautiful nature, a unique mud spa and striking Southern-style houses that identify its character. We educate villagers about hygiene and help renovate public areas, bathrooms and landscapes because cleanliness is the heart of any hospitality service. A team from Hop Inn teaches villagers how to greet guests and how to use the QR code system for check-in. We also plan to expand our project to other communities around the country,” he adds.

Bang Flittary’s House offers tourists comfortable accommodation. 

A mere 20 kilometres from downtown Nakhon Si Thammarat, this land was once home to a pristine beach with boutique resorts and seafood restaurants and 40 years ago was a popular holiday escape for local residents and Malaysian tourists. Then so-called “progress” set in, with the mangrove forest destroyed to make way for shrimps farms that before too long were also abandoned.

In 2014, Bang Taksin Minman joined with his neighbours to open their houses and welcome guests for overnight stays in the hope they could bring their home back to life and promote tourism.

“Eight years ago, hundreds of local students came here to reforest the area but they also turned our home into a garbage dump. We started by providing a catering service to reduce the number of plastic bags and foam containers in the area then we created a fun activity programme that included a mud battle that made our village widely known,” says Bang Santi Himma, secretary of the Community Enterprise of Ban Laem Homestay Mangrove Forest Conservation.

“The idea for launching a homestay programme came when we met an 18-year-old foreign biker who was cycling around the world. With a budget of just Bt100 as day, he was delighted to stay with us for a month and helped us create a fanpage on Facebook to promote our village.”

Popular with Thai families and tourists from the UK and Malaysia, the village has now four families ready to accommodate guests in their home for a two-day, one night programme. For just Bt1,750, tourists can enjoy three meals, an eco-cultural tour and cooking classes and for an extra Bt200 also get an airport transfer to the village thrown in – though this is limited to four people.

“I have long dreamt of improving the quality of our lives. In the past, our village had a drug problem and residents lived in poverty and were always exploited by loan sharks,” says Bang Taksin, another leader of the Community Enterprise .

Fishermen at work in the Golden Bay. /Courtesy of Local Alike. 

“Now, our village can accommodate around 50 guests and we plan to expand services to 10 houses. Thanks to our focus on sustainable living, we can earn Bt40,000 a year and we’ve learnt how to save. This project belongs to everyone and will be handed down to the young generation.

Surrounded by tropical plants and towering coconut trees, I spend one night in Bang Fittary’s house. Built of hardwood, it boasts a living area on the lower level, a private balcony and a bathroom with separate shower and toilet.

The airy bedroom has everything the urban traveller needs. There are four clean mattresses, towels, a television, three fans, mosquito nets and plenty of plugs. A fully-stocked mini bar corner is available in the house though there’s no refrigerator.

In the afternoon, we ride a modified motor-tricycle for a village tour and Bang Santi takes us to the headquarters of the Hang Uan Weaving Group. Jinda Laohawiwat, 60, and her members are happy to demonstrate the traditional techniques used to weave a 15-inch bolt of hang uan as young palm leaves are known in the southern dialect.

“In the past, fishermen used hang uan to interlace with their nets. With their soft texture and durability, they are ideal for fashion accessories and home furnishings such as shoulder bags, hats, coasters and place mats and are now available at many resorts in southern provinces and handicraft shops in Bangkok,” says Jinda.

We continue to Ban Suan Wanlee, home to a large organic mulberry garden. It’s the brainchild of former accountant Prasat Wanlee, who got his first mulberry tree from Chiang Mai and used pruning techniques to propagate.

Visitors can pick and eat mulberries at Ban Suan Wanlee.

“Now I have more than 500 mulberry trees in my garden and can harvest around 30 kilograms of fruit a day. I use chicken manure as fertiliser. The black fruits are sweet and light red ones are sour. The peak of the harvest season is March and April. As part of the homestay programme, I invite tourists to pick and eat the fruit fresh from the bushes and feed them crackers topped with mulberry jam that contains no gelatine and refreshing mulberry soda,” Prasat says.

We also join a cooking class led by local housewives and learn how to make several southern curry pastes like red curry, yellow curry and tai pla curry. The main ingredients are chilli, curcuma, garlic, galangal, shallot and salt and all the ingredients are found in their backyards.

And we also get to taste kanom pa da. Made from rice flour mixed with sweet nam wa banana, it looks like a doughnut but is filled with spicy curry and mangrove leaves before being fried.

We’re up before the birds the next morning, climbing into a fishing boat at 5.45am for a three-hour cruise through the mangrove swamp. We stop at the mouth of the Golden Bay to watch the sunrise and enjoy a breakfast served by Bang Santi of hot coffee and Ovaltine, deep-fried dough sticks, kaoman gaeng massaman (rice cooked with coconut milk and with massaman curry) and roasted sticky rice stuffed with taro.

Bang Santi serves hot coffee.  

“The Golden Bay occupies 3,000 rai and offers a beautiful view of Nakhon Si Thammarat’s mountain ranges. Local fishermen have transformed seven rai into a marine life sanctuary where schools of small fish live to conserve the ecosystem. We are now in seabass season, which runs from January to March,” he tells us.

A few fishermen are already out and we watch them for a while before planting a mangrove tree. On the way back to the shore, Bang Santi invites to jump into the water and enjoy a mud spa that nourishes the skins and the hair. The mud here has a blue tinge and is rich in more than 40 kinds of minerals. It’s even certified by the Pikunthong Royal Development Study Centre and Thailand’s Institute of Nuclear Technology.

The trip ends with a lunch of khaoman talay khlon (rice cooked with coconut milk and squid gallbladder) served with deep-fried mangrove leaves with shrimps and other seasonal seafood dishes.

“Our slogan is ‘Ban Laem Homestay has nothing but the heart’. Coming here, tourists can experience the ways of a Muslim community. We’re friendly and nothing like the negative portrayal of us that’s given out on the news. We always treat visitors as our friends,” says Bang Taksin.

IF YOU GO

>> Ban Laem Homestay is in Tha Sala district, Nakhon Si Thammarat.

>> Booking can be made by calling (065) 513 7273, (088) 768 9036.

>> Check out the programme at the BanLaemHomestay page on Facebook.

The good people of Lampang are tired of travellers whizzing across their province on the way to Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Nakhon Elsewhere. They’ve got plenty of interesting things to see and do and would really like to share them with outsiders if they can just get them to stop for a day or overnight or longer.

So, in order to get off the list of 16 northern “secondary cities” that tourists ignore, the province and its capital of the same name are promoting “Lampang … Plai Thang Fun” (Dream Destination).

“Lampang is a destination for dream hunters,” says Songpol Sawasditham, its governor since 2017. He’s keen to chime in with the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s campaign somewhat clumsily translated as “Over the Dream of Million Inspirations”, which focuses on the North.

“The idea is to make Lampang a destination rather than a secondary city,” Songpol says, “but it goes deeper, making Lampang a destination for every dream, appealing to travellers from every walk of life and every category.

“It’s a place not only for those interested in the slower life, but also for those who like taking pictures and sharing them on social media. It’s a great place for adventurers seeking to discover new places, such as Baan Paa Miang, for example. And we want people to see Lampang as a romantic small town with activities such as ‘Fun Tam Roy Phaphayon’.”

Here he’s referring to a tour of the locations selected as settings for a string of films, including the 2015 Hollywood feature “No Escape”, shot in part at the airport, and the Thai TV series “Rak Nakara”, shot at the Burmese-style Wat Sri Rong Muang.

“We’re always ready to accommodate senior citizens and retirees, whether just for sightseeing or to hold their group meetings,” Songpol says. “We’re very proud of places like the Kew Fin and Chae Son hotsprings.

“For art lovers there is the Lampang Arts Centre and lots of street art to enjoy, and more at Baan Paa Miang.

“Our goal in promoting tourism isn’t just helping to stimulate the national economy but also to spread prosperity locally and thus reduce inequality, so the focus is on secondary tourism and community tourism.”

One eye-popping attraction is the charmingly named Hug You, which really ought to be called Hug Ewe because it’s a sheep farm where you can cuddle a Lampang lamb.

Cameras are essential because of the photogenic Harvest Moon Farm & Café, Rai Sub Muen San with its windmill landmark and lots of gaily painted signage, as well as a beautiful vineyard and strawberry fields. And don’t knock the resident livestock’s wool coats. As standup comedian Udom “Note” Taepanich once sarcastically remarked, “Lampang nao mak!” It can indeed get very cold.

For more adventurous tourism, Songpol recommends Baan Paa Miang in Muang Pan district, home to the hot springs and waterfalls of Chae Son National Park.

You can haul around a tent or you can arrange to stay with a family in the village of Mae Chaem. It’s a winding road up the mountain to the homestay-friendly “agrotourism” community. You move in with the clan in a house alongside a stream, sample some khai paam, which is an omelette cooked in a banana-leaf krathong, and plan your excursions off into the wild.

There’s a learning centre focused on community health where they show you how miang leaves are used to make tea and stuff pillows for the head and neck.

Next door the householders are advertising foodstuffs like nam phrik phao (chilli paste) made from mushrooms, though you have to order in advance. A stroll around the village takes you to Wat Paa Miang, then Baan Paa Miang School, whose walls are decorated with paintings of cats, chickens and cows. And finally you reach the Paa Miang Coffee and settle in for a lovely iced lemonade with wild honey and a spectacular view of a temple in the valley.

Early-morning risers are rewarded with a gorgeous sunrise at Kew Fin, a lookout 1,517 metres above sea level.

Governor Songpol isn’t done pitching attractions yet.

“Another outstanding event is the Dok Siew Festival in Baan Paa Miang every February and March, and you must see the love bridge that the street-art team from Silpakorn University painted with a dok siew pattern,” he says.

He’s got another promotional campaign underway, “Nakhon Hathasil Thin Utsahakram Sangsan” (Craftsmanship City, Creative Industries) that centres on Baan Luk Tai, a community skilled engravers, and the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum.

The word “luk” in the village’s name refers to a turbine-driven bailer locally invented to draw water from a stream to irrigate crops. As if that weren’t enough, the residents are so talented at carving that they’re nationally famous. They can whip a chunk of mai chamcha (raintree wood) into a nifty pestle and mortar or, if it’s a big enough block, a life-size elephant and rhinoceros like the ones the kids can clamber on.

For now most of the carvings are sent to the Baan Tawai Handcraft Village in Chiang Mai to hawk to tourists, but that trade is expected to shift back to the source soon.

Songpol, who had success boosting tourism in Songkhla while he was governor there, says Lampang gets 900,000 a year now and he wants that number up to two million within two years.

Lampang is also renowned for its ceramics, including the ubiquitous and ultra-handy “chicken bowl”, and the Dhanabadee Museum traces that history. You can examine two ancient kilns, visit a showroom of impressive modern designs, and see “the world’s thinnest chicken bowl”, another one smaller than a grain of rice and another coated in gold, plus a ceramic flute that was made for National Artist Thanis Sriklindee.

The horse-drawn carriages that never fail to delight visitors to urban Lampang are well worth a try. They ply the well-treed old part of town, cross the Tha Ma-O community and stop by at the wonderful colonialera home of master tradesman Louis Leonowens, son of Anna, tutor to the children of King Rama IV.

Dropped off amid a jangle of street-art colour on the Wang River, you can meander along Thanon Talad Gao, a walking street each evening, to the Ratsadaphisek Bridge and past venerable Burmese-style houses.

Kad Kong Ta sells a huge variety of goods and foods including khai namrae Chae Son, a spicy salad with eggs hardboiled in a hot spring.

Stay just a little longer

Bangkok residents still not convinced about the appeal of Lampang should visit the Lampang Open House Fair at CentralWorld from February 19-21.

It will have glimpses of all the top sights and samples of all the main cultural and gastronomic highlights.

The company suggests Thailand, as one of the most popular hosts for global travellers, should capitalise from this trend by offering authentic and unique experience to travellers.

The research commissioned by Booking.com and was independently conducted among a sample of 53,492 respondents across 31 markets. In order to participate in this survey, respondents had to be 18 years of age or older, had to have travelled at least once in the past 12 months and be either the primary decision maker or involved in the decision making of their travel. The survey was taken online and took place between October 16 and November 12.

“We are seeing a clear trend among travellers to try out unique types of accommodations and we understand that the perfect stay may look different for each of them. So, whether it’s an icy igloo, a cosy cabin or luxury villa you’re after, Booking.com offers more than 5.8 million instantly bookable homes, apartments and other unique places to make sure that your next special experience is just a few clicks away,” says Olivier Gremillon, Vice President at Booking.com.

“According to the research results, 37 per cent of travellers globally desire to be different. In 2019 travellers are looking for new experiences and unique accommodation like a Thai traditional house, boat or treehouse. Meanwhile they’re looking to live like a local by staying at alternative accommodation types such as villas, holiday homes and apartments. Almost half of global travellers agree that staying in a home-type accommodation lets them see areas of a city or parts of a country that they wouldn’t have explored otherwise, Parichat Haehnen, Regional Manager for Thailand and Indochina at Booking.com says.

Aside from allowing travellers to explore destinations like locals, alternative types of accommodation can also offer the opportunity for more affordable travel. And with so much of the world waiting to be discovered, this is one major incentive that almost half of global travellers agree with, stating that staying in a home-type accommodation allows them to feel that they are getting the most value for their money.

“Thailand is in a good position to capitalise from this travel trend as it has charming uniqueness. Thai property managers should ensure they meet traveller’s preference by including local or cultural elements with their offerings and providing good quality photos of their place, which reflects its Thai character on booking platforms,” Parichat adds

LONG RECOGNISED by foreigners as a haven for cosmetic surgery and dental care at prices far lower than in their home countries, Thailand is now turning its health expertise to top-quality medical treatment, in-vitro fertilisation and rehabilitation as well as holistic wellness programmes tailored for the greying population.

Meditation is part of the addiction treatment programme at The Cabin.

A recent report compiled by Visa and Oxford Economics reveals that the world’s medical tourism industry is generating some US$100 billion (Bt3.3 trillion) and more than 10 million tourists are travelling abroad to get health-related treatments.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has conducted research into medical tourism and discovered that in 2016 Thailand welcomed 66,492 medical tourists from China, England, the United Arab Emirates, Singapore, India, Germany, Australia, Vietnam, the US and Qatar.

That has continued to increase, with the growth rate of 13.9 per cent valued at Bt26.4 million.

Famous for specialised treatments and anti-ageing programmes, Thailand ranks among the top 10 medical tourism destinations, along with Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan, Turkey, Mexico, Israel, Costa Rica, India and Turkey, according to Patients Beyond Borders. It’s home to 64 hospitals accredited by Joint Commission International, which assures visitors safety and high-quality standards – the highest number in Asean and the fourth in the world.

“In Thailand, we’ve seen that regenerative and anti-ageing programmes, rehabilitation, in-vitro fertilisation (IVF) and wellness centres are gaining in popularity. Our hospitals and health centres offer a diversity of affordable, quality treatments that cost customers 50 to 70 per cent less than the rates in the US,” says Thapanee Kiatphaibool, executive director of the TAT’s product promotion department.

Medical tourists now pay more attention to quality, standards, experienced specialists, effective treatments, aftercare and translation services, so a cheap price is no longer a powerful magnet.

“Most medical tourists are professionals like entrepreneurs, lawyers and doctors aged between 35 to 45. They come through word-of-mouth recommendations, while some choose to consult a health-related travel agency or the Thai Embassy and also visit the hospitals’ websites. And of course they use social media to search for information rather than believe in advertorial reviews,” Thapanee adds.

“Living expenses in Thailand are relatively low, so medical tourists can spend their free time shopping, sightseeing, having a spa treatment or spending time at the beach.

“Three-star hotels and serviced apartments are the best choice for the middle class planning a longer stay, while the elite prefer to take advantage of five-star accommodation and hospitality.

Well-known for its natural attractions, Chiang Mai is today a popular hub for luxury rehabilitation resorts, among them The Cabin, which offers specially tailored treatment programmes for general addiction, youngsters, LGBT and women.

Opened in 2010, this resort has expanded from nine to 120 rooms, complete with swimming pools, well-equipped fitness centres and executive lounges, plus a hospital.

Health-conscious travellers are seeking better treatments for sustainable living.

“Thailand is a popular holiday destination with beautiful scenery and excellent hospitality, making it perfect for rehabilitation. The key idea is that we need to move addicts from their familiar surroundings to reduce the impulse,” says Andy Leach, clinical leader and counsellor of The Cabin.

“The main core of treatment is to work with a family to continue such treatment when clients return their home. We educate their families about addiction. This is a disease, generally caused by a state of low dopamine in the midbrain, which results in the positive feeling of reward [happiness] being hijacked.”

Ranging from $14,900 to $15,900, the intensive, all-inclusive treatment packages take at least 28 days and includes general health checks, daily talk therapy both one on one and group, personal fitness training, massage treatments, art therapy, excursions, relapse prevention plan and online aftercare coaching.

“We have already welcomed some 2,000 customers, 70 per cent male and 30 per cent female, aged from 16 to 60. They mostly came from Australia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, the UK, Netherlands, Denmark and United Arab Emirates as well as from the expatriate community in Thailand. The top three addictions are methamphetamine, alcohol and marijuana,” says Reeya Chaicharas, PR manager of The Cabin Addiction Services Group.

Another addiction the resort has been increasingly treating in recent years is online gaming and in 2017, the resort designed the activity-based Edge programme for young people that includes muay thai and triathlon training to improve meditative skills and muscle tone.

Rehab and health centres have also sprung up in Chon Buri, Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chiang Rai and Chantaburi and all appear to be attracting a steady stream of patients.

TAT research has also shown that Chinese couples are actively seeking out the best IVF treatment programmes since China launched the second child policy. In Bangkok, Samitivej Hospital Sukhumvit is drawing European expats both resident in Thailand and living in Myanmar and Laos with its advanced technology and experienced experts in obstetrics and gynaecology.

IVF is often the best only option for couples who marry later in life.

“My patients are mostly specialised in engineering and computers and take advantage their company’s welfare schemes. We see a lot of males aged 50 to 60, now in a second marriage, and with a low sperm count associated with their age, while the females aged 38 and up have a low ovarian reserve. Around 70 to 80 per cent of our patients choose to get IVF treatments though the success depends on age and female fertility,” says Dr Obstetrician and Gynaecologist Boonsaeng Wutthiphan.

“The couple wants a specialist who understands their problem. Here at the centre we have combined innovations and medical technologies from several countries to provide effective treatment programmes.”

Thailand’s advanced anti-ageing and wellness treatment programmes have become popular with tourists from China, the UK, UAE, Singapore and India.

Samitivej Hospital’s Life Centre offers a wide selection of specially designed rejuvenation and ageing treatments to help balance body and soul.

“The number of the well-heeled Chinese patients aged 50 to 60 has increased over the last year. They mostly have high cholesterol, diabetes and heart disease and want to improve their health. China is known the world over for its traditional medicine but people today are more inclined to seek out modern technology,” says Dr Panuwat Putthacharoen, a special in anti-ageing and regenerative medicine at Samitivej Hospital Sukhumvit.

“The programme starts with a hormone test, nutritional examination and blood analysis. We design treatment programmes to restore balance, based on the individual’s health.

Here too, much of the treatment is natural, with the hospital combining several herbs, vitamins and fruit extracts as well as research from around the world to help their patients. For example, South African berries are used to slow down cellular degeneration while imported ginseng from the US, Africa and Asia is a main ingredient in improving hormonal balance, and guarana from South Africa enhances metabolism.

“Younger patients both in Thailand and from Myanmar and Vietnam are learning to prepare themselves for getting older. They want to decrease their disease risk, stay fit all the time and maintain their health,” Dr Panuwat says.

“We have a detox treatment course lasting three to seven days, which eliminates toxins and is perfect for those facing PM2.5 pollution and those living in industrial areas.”

An organic spa treatment at Panpuri Wellness uses only products made from natural ingredients.

And today it seems that women now wish to be beautiful from the inside out rather than going under the knife. Last year, Panpuri Wellness launched its organic spa and says that 75 per cent of its customers come from China, Japan and South Korea. Focusing on insomnia, stress, fatigue and pollution, the centre offers an organic massage treatment, onsen bath, exercise classes and healthy food.

“There is a noticeable trend in beauty products made from natural ingredients. This industry is valued at $11 billion and expected to double in 2024 with a growth rate of eight per cent per year, according to research conducted by Euromonitor and the Department of Tourism,” says Vorravit Siripark, chief executive officer of Panpuri.

“Our treatments, which are designed with a preventive approach, help to relieve the stress of urban living and balance body and mind,” says Vorravit Siripark, chief executive officer of Panpuri.

“We collaborated with Naturopathic Physician, Dr Aaron J Bullington to create the Wellness Signature Massage that combines Eastern and Western style massage techniques to relieve fatigue.”