In Jakarta, Muslim wear goes modern

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/In-Jakarta-Muslim-wear-goes-modern-30281743.html

FASHION

Indonesia Fashion Week finds designers pursuing dreams of international acclaim

NINE FASHION designers presented their latest women’s collections during the recent Indonesia Fashion Week, dazzling a young audience dressed up for the event.

For the “Muslim Wear” show, designer Yoha Friska Mei Fanny offered the grunge-style Yoha line dominated by black and white geometrical designs and a hijab style inspired by the Eastern European practice of tying a triangular scarf under the chin.

Zakia Bamahri’s Zaq collection had a masculine touch with tunic, vest and asymmetrical shirts in checks or vertical stripes. To accentuate the design, the hijab covered only the hair and neck.

The Hava line also presented dynamic designs suitable for teenagers. The layering of outerwear over cotton shirts, crop tops and the use of see-through materials and sneakers rendered the outfits suitable for any occasion.

//

West Nusa Tenggara motifs were celebrated in Shahia’s collection, while Lia Afif played with Palembang songket, adorned with accessories usually used by brides. Lia also arranged the hijab in the style of rural South Sumatra women.

Hanny Lovelly and Janeeta used luxurious fabrics in their designs, while Si.Se.Sa designers showed the classical cut of sharia Muslim wear, with flowing gowns and two-pieces in pastels adorned with pearls.

Japanese designer Chiharu Horiuchi made her debut at the fashion week by using kimono fabric to create loose two-pieces, jackets and outerwear. She emulated Japanese bridal headwear in a hijab in some designs.

“It’s unintentional, but the designs are indeed embodied in my culture,” she said through a translator.

Online boutique Hijup.com also made its debut, on the second day of the event, bringing out ethnic-inspired Muslim fashions. “We’re proud to expose the rich cultural diversity and multiethnic acculturation through modest fashion designs,” said chief executive Diajeng Lestari.

Zaskia is among the Indonesian designers active in popularising local Muslim style by taking part in overseas shows, including the recent New York and London fashion weeks.

“We’ll continue pursuing our dream of getting Indonesia recognised as a ‘pole’ of world Muslim fashion,” Diajeng said.

Senior designer and event coordinator Musa Widyatmodjo said the designers had to determine a character unique to Indonesia to achieve the dream.

“We don’t have the technology to emulate Paris’ high fashion or China’s mass production. Our strength lies in ethnic crafts, such as woven cloth and embroidery. Aside from that, a well-organised industry for Muslim fashion is a must.”

Ending on Sunday, Indonesia Fashion Week is expected to draw 120,000 visitors.

 

Boys in pink, girls in blue

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Boys-in-pink-girls-in-blue-30281741.html

FASHION

“Genderless” fashion hits the big time in Japan

NO STRANGER to barrettes, bows and beauty products, Japanese Instagram icon and model Genking is a proud flag bearer for “genderless” fashion in which young men adopt unequivocally feminine styles and challenge traditional norms.

Although women around the world have taken to menswear in droves – sporting trousers since the 1930s when French fashion legend Coco Chanel put her equestrian clients in pants – the sight of a man in a skirt still raises eyebrows in the West.

In much of Asia, however, unisex clothing – whether in the form of a traditional shalwar kameez, sarong or kimono – boasts a long history, while popular theatrical traditions regularly feature gender bending performances.

Genking’s long bleached blond locks, curled eyelashes and fondness for both womenswear and menswear testify to a self-professed identity as a “genderless” person.

Born Genki Tanaka, Genking fell in love with fashion at an early age, dreaming of Chanel purses and pastel pink accessories.

“My mother was pretty tolerant…. But in those days, I still didn’t want to admit my feminine side and I was kind of trying to hide it,” Genking said.

“When I turned 20, I quit pretending.”

Genking set up an Instagram account where selfies showcase a style that has attracted nearly 850,000 followers, kicking off a television career and culminating in a catwalk appearance at the packed Tokyo Girls Collection show last year.

In Japan, men play every role during traditional kabuki – all-male theatre – performances, while the century-old Takarazuka Revue – an all-female musical theatre troupe – sees women slick back their hair and don tuxedos to the delight of adoring female fans.

“Gender role play through fashion and performance has always been a big part of Japanese culture,” says Tokyo-based style blogger and TV host, Misha Janette.

Local retailers have long catered to a fashion-hungry menswear market with slick tailoring, leather clutches and luxury skincare products.

Few young men, however, would have made the leap from watching male actors play women on stage to adopting “girly” accessories and wearing makeup themselves, were it not for the overwhelming influence of Korean pop music and Japanese anime movies.

“When K-pop became big in Japan, many young men adopted that style, trying to copy the effeminate facial features of male band members,” Janette says.

Meanwhile, as anime’s popularity rose, young boys turned to makeup in a bid to resemble their favourite cartoon characters.

“Genderless” trailblazers like singer Yohdi Kondo and style star Ryucheru regularly don schoolgirl braids, swipe on blush and dress in pink fluffy sweaters, adopting “kawaii”, or cute, styles usually reserved for young women.

But while Japanese fashion seeks to overturn convention, commentators say it will take more than men dressed in skirts to transform traditional gender dynamics in the conservative country.

“The genderless trend is really a fashion moment, it’s not necessarily about sexuality or any social agenda.. I don’t think a trend like this changes anything for women, it’s not empowering (for them),” Janette says.

Japanese activists have staged a long battle to scrap sexist, discriminatory laws while female participation rates in the workforce and political sphere are among the lowest in developed nations.

Nevertheless, proponents of “genderless” fashion are optimistic, pointing to the rising visibility of LGBT icons like Caitlyn Jenner, the transgender Olympic champion formerly known as Bruce.

Designer Tsukasa Mikami opened Tokyo fashion week Monday with a show featuring male and female models in floral silkscreen-printed garments and combat boots.

Mikami, whose previous collections have showcased men and women wearing the same garments, said creating unisex clothing came naturally.

“I don’t make any distinction between the sexes,” he says..

Hot new unisex label “ilk” offers a selection of dresses and belted tunics aimed at “customers of all ages, genders and sexualities”, according to designer Koji Ota.

Meanwhile, in a nod to the trend’s growing reach, retail giant Zara last week launched a unisex line of sweatshirts, tank tops and sneakers called “Ungendered”.

“The LGBT movement is a global |movement that we cannot separate from fashion… I think this free way of thinking is suited to modern society and (its) fashion,” Ota says.

For “genderless” fashionista Genking, the playful style heralds the dawn of a new age.

“The gender boundary is disappearing… Japan is still conservative, but I think we will see more men open up to genderless culture,” Genking says.

“How you dress is how you live.”

The definition of “in Vogue”, Somchai looks back

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/The-definition-of-in-Vogue-Somchai-looks-back-30281578.html

SOOPSIP

Somchai/Photo courtesy of Vogue Thailand Magazine

Somchai/Photo courtesy of Vogue Thailand Magazine

Vogue Thailand has dragged clothing designer Somchai Kaewtong out of his sustained low profile with a 12-page spread in its current edition. It includes a rare interview and some truly stunning photos of the latest haute couture collection from his boutique, Kai.

Although Somchai has remained aloof from the runway, his beautiful togs are often seen draped on celebrities at public events. As recently as Saturday night, actress Kanokwan Dan-udom was clad in Kai, a gorgeous golden evening gown, when she received lifetime-achievement honours at the televised Golden Television Awards.

The surprise behind Somchai’s success is that he never graduated from any fashion school. At the beginning, he says, he couldn’t even make a basic pattern. In the subsequent five decades, though, he became the country’s most respected couturier as he pushed Thai fashion onto the world stage. Even members of the royal family wear his elegant creations.

All this and much more is covered in the Vogue interview – the rural high-schooler from Yala carrying his art studies at the Poh Chang Institute on to Silpakorn University. He didn’t stay there long, quitting to become a dressmaker, opening his own business at age 22, upstairs at the Siam Theatre in Siam Square. That was 1969, the first step on the road to fame, and now he’s 69.

“It’s been up and down ever since, but my brand is still alive,” Somchai says. “I still don’t know much about the fashion business. The only reason I’ve survived is because I have my dreams. I always dream of new things and make them happen.”

Most in demand for the fabulous wedding gowns that truly are dreams come true, he makes everything by hand, and the imagination and effort are evident in the prices. Even the most basic wedding dress costs many thousand baht, and once bejewelled with gems it can run to Bt1 million.

Back in the early days, Somchai says, there were few fashion magazines in Thailand. He drew his inspiration mostly from the movies. Long before Leonardo DiCaprio came along, Robert Redford did a film of “The Great Gatsby”, and Somchai came out with a line of clothes for his first fashion show, “1920s Look”, with our own movie stars and hi-so figures doing the modelling – including Kanokwan.

He’s grateful to her and to another veteran actress, Patravadi “Khru Lek” Meejudon, who he credits with cementing his place in the Thai fashion scene. “She’d just graduated overseas and was very trendy, the hottest lady around. She ran a fashion magazine called Femina and opened a boutique with Patsri Bunnag at the Ploenchit Centre.”

There’s a reason, it turns out, why many of Kai’s cocktail dresses resemble ballet costumes. At age eight he wanted to be up on his toes onstage. By age 15 he was learning the steps from one of Thailand’s great early ballerinas, Khunying Varaporn Pramoj.

Somchai is also keen to credit French designer Pierre Balmain, whose marvellous dresses made for Her Majesty the Queen gave him added inspiration, and to Vogue Thailand editor Kullawit “Ford” Laosuksri, who trained with him 28 years ago. Ford went on to a fashion institute in France and then joined the Thai edition of Elle , eventually becoming its editor and, in 1999, initiating Elle Fashion Week.

The annual event united Thai fashion, Somchai says, and kept him on the runway for 15 years, despite constant fretting about competition from the younger generation. It proved to him, he says, “that I can survive”.

Crazy, talented and Asian

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Crazy-talented-and-Asian-30281367.html

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

Singaporean-born novelist Kevin Kwan pens two best-selling novels – 'Crazy Rich Asians' and 'China Rich Girlfriend'. The Nation/Sukol Kerdnaimongkol

Singaporean-born novelist Kevin Kwan pens two best-selling novels – ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ and ‘China Rich Girlfriend’. The Nation/Sukol Kerdnaimongkol

Cover of 'Crazy Rich Asians' Photo courtesy of Asia Books

Cover of ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ Photo courtesy of Asia Books

Cover of 'China Rich Girlfriend' Photo courtesy of Asia Books

Cover of ‘China Rich Girlfriend’ Photo courtesy of Asia Books

Kevin Kwan is staying sane as he encounters fame and acclaim for his books “Crazy Rich Asians” and “China Rich Girlfriend”

With its huge publishing industry and a potential Asian-American readership well in excess of 10 million people, the US sounds like an ideal place for an Asian novelist to live off his laurels. But it’s also a path strewn with difficulties and even best-selling authors find it near impossible to enjoy financial freedom without a second career.

That said, the ride has so far been smooth for Singaporean-born novelist Kevin Kwan whose two novels – “Crazy Rich Asians” and “China Rich Girlfriend” – have become international best-sellers and are now slated for screen adaptations.

“I consider myself lucky as so many of my friends who are choreographers and content creators have a hard time. There’s so much content on the Internet these days that competition is fierce. Content creators are not being valued the way they used to be,” he says.

In Thailand recently to give a talk at the Bangkok Edge Festival, Kwan took time out to give interviews to the local press, conceding that international speaking engagements and chats with the press are just two of the ways his novels have changed his life.

//

Born and raised in Singapore, where he attended Anglo-Chinese School in the mornings and spent his afternoons chasing after neighbourhood dogs on his bike, Kwan was 11 when the family moved to the US.

“My father had always wanted to live in the West. He loved the lifestyle there, and he had no choice but to emigrate,” he says.

Dad was an engineer and mum a pianist. Neither were bookworms. “My dad didn’t read for pleasure. He read books for reference.”

Instead Kwan credits his aunt, a librarian in Singapore, for instilling a love of reading in him and giving him books to read from age seven. “I can recall the first book I read, cover to cover by myself. It was ‘The Wishing-Chair’ by Enid Blyton. It was like the early Harry Potter books, with a fantasy world, magic, fairies and special people. Looking back, I think my mother thought I was reading too much and would have preferred to see me outside playing football,” he says with a fond smile.

In the US, Kwan attended Clear Lake High School in Houston, Texas, home to Space Centre Houston, NASA Mission Control and International Space Station Mission Control. His school pals were the children of astronauts.

“I had this wonderful English teacher. She was the first to give me creative writing assignments. The first thing I wrote for her was an essay about Marilyn Monroe. She liked it so much that she tried to get it published. That’s when I realised I had a talent for writing.’

Kwan believes he benefitted from the US education which, unlike Singapore where the emphasis is on mathematics and science, encourages students to follow their interests.

“Life was interesting because for the first time, I was learning for the love of learning. The philosophy in the US is that education should be fun, which is very different from Singapore. In Singapore, teachers will say these are the things you have to learn, things to memorise, and these are the tests you have to pass. In the US, if you enjoy writing, you take writing classes,” he explains.

Kwan went to the University of Houston where he opted for a degree in creative writing. His confidence grew and he quickly became a regular contributor to the university’s paper.

“Personally I was much more interested in poetry. So I wrote a lot of experimental poetry. For me, poetry is like a jewel. You have to keep chipping away [at it] to find the perfection. My poetry teacher said a poem is never finished, only abandoned. And he was right.”

Kwan later moved to New York where he pursued a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree at Parsons School of Design. His early years in the city were spent working for Martha Stewart Living, Andy Warhol’s Interview magazine, and M&Co, the design firm founded by Tibor Kalman. In 2000, he set up his own creative studio, where he specialised in producing high profile visual projects for clients such as the New York Times, the Museum of Modern Art and Rockwell Group.

In his free time, he wrote poetry and attempted to complete the manuscript of his first novel, “a hobby,” he says of the tome.

“I wasn’t really doing it for money because I was making a good living as a consultant,” he says.

His debut novel, “Crazy Rich Asians”, published in 2013, tells the story of three super-rich, pedigreed Chinese families and scheming that occurs when Nick, the heir to one of the most massive fortunes in Asia, brings home his ABC (American-born Chinese) girlfriend, Rachel, to the dismay of the whole clan.

“I grew up in a privileged professional family. The characters in my book are the people with whom I came into contact. So I thought I would write about what I knew best. And people are fascinated by the very rich and powerful,” he says.

“But I don’t belong to that world. I’m just a visitor to that world occasionally. I was lucky in the sense that no one was writing about contemporary Asian wealth in fiction form,” Kwan says.

The book looks set to change the usual stereotypical image of Asians in the West, who are often seen as penny-pinching immigrants. The protagonist Nick is an Oxbridge-educated New York University history professor with a family home in Singapore that looks like a palace. Rachel, 29, is a professor of economics at NYU and was educated at two of the top U universities: Stanford and Northwestern. The other characters include cigar-puffing Asian tycoons who get around in private jets, male Hong Kong fashionistas, Chuppies (Chinese yuppies) and Henwees (high-net worth individuals).

“Of course there are Asian stereotypes in the US. There they tend to only see immigrants who came in poor but built business empires. They don’t see the world of old money and the sophistication that exists in Asia as depicted in the book.

“Asian wealth has had a profound effect on the luxury economy, so much so that the international high-end brands are now catering primarily to the Asian market.

While Kwan admits to being “comfortable”, he is quick to explain that he is nothing like the super-rich in his books. Writing is still a financially precarious career, he says, adding that he knows quite a few best-selling authors who need to supplement their incomes by holding down university teaching jobs.

“That’s the sad truth of creative life in the US. That’s the case in Asia too. They can’t make a living as a writer,” he said.

Being an Asian writer in the US is a struggle, too, in the sense that he has to contend with losing a big share of the market by writing a book about something that’s exotic. “It’s a struggle for any writers of

colour to get their work noticed, whether you are Asian, African-American or native American. You’re not going to sell as many books as Danielle Steel. If I wrote about crazy rich blondes, those privileged Park Avenue princesses, I think I would capture a larger audience,” he says.

But there are advantages to being a best-selling writer and Kwan admits that his books have changed his life profoundly. A film adaptation of “Crazy Rich Asians” is being made by Ivanhoe Pictures, and the author is executive producer.

“I also do a lot more travelling that I used to and am much more in the public eye. There’s a general perception that I must have made millions of dollars. That’s far from the truth given the economics of the publishing world,” he says with a grin.

On the shelf

“Crazy Rich Asians” has been translated into Thai by Sasi Pin under the title “Liam Botan” and is published by Gallery Publishing. It’s available at Asia Books, Hardcover, Candide, B2S, Kinokuniya, Nai-in and other leading bookshops and costs Bt495. The English versions of Kwan’s novels can be found at Asia Books and other leading bookstores.

 

The amazing fishing cats of Surat Thani

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/The-amazing-fishing-cats-of-Surat-Thani-30281366.html

SOOPSIP

Wason Duangmanee's cats are the starts of the 'ferntongpubtongmuang' page on facebook.

Wason Duangmanee’s cats are the starts of the ‘ferntongpubtongmuang’ page on facebook.

Nearly 28,000 Facebook users are glued to Wason Duangmanee’s page, watching the continuing adventures of his dozen-or-so cats.

As lovingly documented in the photos and videos he posts, they do all the typical stuff – lie around luxuriously, get stuck in a tree, annoy the birds – but, amazingly enough, they also get in a boat and go fishing.

Wason, who lives on a bank of the Tapi River in southern Surat Thani, is a hobbyist fisherman. Most mornings he poles his small sampan into the current and casts out a net, then returns home to give the fish plenty of time to make their fateful decision.

Then, when the evening comes, it’s showtime.

Wason’s two ginger Persian cats, Thong Phap and Thong Muan, jump in the boat as he heads out to see what’s on the menu as the catch of the day. Sometimes the whole gang comes along. When the net’s hauled in and there’s a fish flopping around, everybody gets very excited. The cats, of course, have to be physically restrained from having a sashimi dinner on the spot.

Wason’s images of these antics are a huge hit online, every post drawing dozens of comments along the lines of “Happy cat!” and “Wish my cat would do that!” Cats are huge on the Web anyway, of course. YouTube would be half its size if it weren’t for cute cat videos. Feline voyeurism deals mainly in footage of cats falling into full bathtubs and otherwise being uncharacteristically clumsy, but there’s nothing that’s not to love.

A Bangkok woman identifying herself as Bao has had huge success in the furry end of the publicity business. She has Facebook page called “Kingdom of Tigers” that’s accumulated more than three million “likes”, as well as an Instagram feed, has written two books about her cats and earns a lot of money attending pet events.

Our inner cynic wonders if her own pets might be getting a little stressed-out by all the attention and public activity. For his part, fisherman Wason has been on Thai Rath TV due to his popularity on the social media, but he’s not hoping his pals will become the next viral superstars like Grumpy Cat or Lil Bub. At most he’s out to convince people that cats make good fishing partners.

Chinese fishermen train cormorant birds to dive in the water and catch fish for them (with a rope around their neck to stop them swallowing the fish). Well, you’re not going to get the average cat to jump in the river for you, no matter how you tie the rope. Thong Phap and Thong Muan are special, however.

“Cats always know where the fish are,” Wason says. “When they leap onto the gunwale, that’s the tip-off that there are fish nearby waiting to be caught.”

The shape of terrible memories

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/The-shape-of-terrible-memories-30281364.html

CONTEMPORARY ART

Angkrit Ajchariyasophon's abstract oils are inspired by the artist’s visit to Rikuzentakata, a Japanese town wiped out by the March 11, 2011 disasters. Photo courtesy of Numthong Gallery

Angkrit Ajchariyasophon’s abstract oils are inspired by the artist’s visit to Rikuzentakata, a Japanese town wiped out by the March 11, 2011 disasters. Photo courtesy of Numthong Gallery

Photographer Tawatchai Pattanaporn took pictures of residents and superimposed elements from nature on them. Photo courtesy of Numthong Gallery

Photographer Tawatchai Pattanaporn took pictures of residents and superimposed elements from nature on them. Photo courtesy of Numthong Gallery

Two Thai artists map the “Contour” of a Japanese town levelled by the 2011 tsunami

As Japan marked the fifth anniversary last Friday of the devastating Tohuku earthquake – which with the tsunami it triggered left 18,500 people dead or missing – the Bangkok art community paused to reflect at the opening of the exhibition “Contour”.

The show, continuing into next month at the Numthong Gallery, is the fruit of Angkrit Ajchariyasophon and Tawatchai Pattanaporn’s residency at Rikuzentakata in Japan, which had the support of the Japan Foundation’s Thai office.

That town, whose current population is just 20,000, was “wiped off the map” by the tsunami.

The “contour” of the exhibition’s title refers to both the geological vectors on a map and the rough outline an artist makes to set the scale for an undertaking.

//

Just as important in the context of the exhibition, Angkrit, in his abstract paintings, and Tawatchai, in his photographs, map out “spiritual” contours that echo a landscape – of geography and of the soul – that was irrevocably changed by the 2011 disaster.

Angkrit, 45 and based in Chiang Rai, spent his time in Rikuzentakata last year working with local counterparts on a project called “1000 Rainbows”, which had at its core a message of hope for those who’d lost so much in the catastrophe.

Back home, he noted the way colours has been commandeered to represent political ideals and turned in the opposite direction. His next set of abstracts was inspired, he says, by Russian Kazimir Malevich painting “White on White”, but there were also the rainbow hues of American Ellsworth Kelly’s “Spectrum V”.

Angkrit says his intent was to record incidents and changes occurring in Thailand during that crucial time.

Tawatchai’s images from Rikuzentakata similarly record changes, in this case the stirring transformation from utter ruin and abandonment to rebuilding and resettlement. He first visited the town in 2012, not long after the earthquake and tsunami, and then returned in 2014 for his residence and again last year, marvelling at its rebirth.

His photos show how nature supplied the materials for reconstruction, from the surrounding forests and mountains.

On his second and third visits Thawatchai “felt like a stranger”, having to familiarise himself with all the sights again. Even the people who’d lived there a long time would probably feel the same, he suspected. In his pictures he’s attempted to reconstruct his memories – and theirs.

Some of the photos from this series were exhibited at Cloud Space last September, as part of the Photo Bangkok Festival. At least that much might be familiar.

HORROR AND HOPE

– “Contours” runs until April 9 at the Numthong Gallery, 72/3 Soi Aree 5 North, off Phahonyothin Road (BTS Aree, Exit 3).

– For details, call (02) 617 2794 or check http://www.Facebook.com/NumthongGalleryAtAree.

 

It takes four to tango

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/It-takes-four-to-tango-30281353.html

STAGE PREVIEW

'Monos' will be performed at 7.30pm from Friday to Sunday in the fourth floor studio of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Photo/Daniel Karlas

‘Monos’ will be performed at 7.30pm from Friday to Sunday in the fourth floor studio of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Photo/Daniel Karlas

Photo/Daniel Karlas

Photo/Daniel Karlas

Jitti Chompee works khon movements into jazz music in his new show

At the Tokyo Performing Arts Market (TPAM) in 2012, Thai choreographer and artistic director of 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre Jitti Chompee met the Argentinean director of Teatro San Martin. They kept in touch and last September, the Thai company made its South American debut with “Monos”, in which three 18 Monkeys dancers, using the techniques and styles of classical Thai masked dance khon, collaborated with the Grammy Award-nominated jazz band Escalandrum, founded by a descendent of Tango legend Astor Piazzolla.

“It was a success. The Piazzolla family members liked this collaboration very much and have invited us to go back,” Jitti says.

“There’s also interest from the Hague. The problem is that one of the three dancers Anucha Sumaman has a full-time job at the National Theatre and his schedule may not allow for frequent tours. I was looking for a double cast and Pichet Klunchun suggested [one of his company members] Porramet Maneerat. But then I realised that each dancer has a different personality and technique so I should just recreate this work for four dancers.

“BACC has been interested in this work from the beginning and I’ve been trying to bring the full band, with seven musicians, from Buenos Aires to Bangkok. For now at least, that’s not possible. Escalandrum has granted us the right to perform with their music, which is strongly based on tango roots. But without them sharing the stage with the dancers and the stage being smaller here, it’s not the same so I decided to create a new choreography. The structure remains the same though – we’re using all four character types of khon, namely phra (the male lead), nang (the female lead), yak (demon) and ling (monkey),” Jitti explains.

//

“While Escalandrum’s music was the origin of this interdisciplinary and intercultural work, many parts of the new choreography are inspired by paintings, like those of the Himavanta forest, and photographs from magazines that I like. I shared these images with my four dancers and they’ve been very quick in pitching in ideas and co-creating choreography.”

In addition to Anucha and Sumaman, the cast includes long-time member of 18 Monkeys Krittin Kiatmetha and Benjamin Tardif, a Canadian dancer who not only has been trained in khon’s monkey character but also finished his master’s in the teaching of performing arts from the Ministry of Culture’s Bunditpatanasilpa Institute.

Jitti is now hoping to run a small theatre studio with a monthly programme.

“Classical Thai literature is a great resource and contemporary dance works can be new interpretations of the stories with which most of us are already familiar. This would also create job opportunities for new dance graduates,” he says/

Buenos Aires to Bangkok

“Monos” is at the 4th floor studio of BACC (BTS: National Stadium) from Friday to Sunday at 7:30pm.

Tickets are Bt800 (Bt400 for students) at (081) 814 3304.

Find out more at http://www.18MonkeysDanceTheatre.com and at the “18 Monkeys Dance Theatre” page on Facebook.

 

London gawks at Eastern treasures

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/London-gawks-at-Eastern-treasures-30281344.html

ART

Anita Delgado's peacock brooch in gold, diamonds and enamel. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Anita Delgado’s peacock brooch in gold, diamonds and enamel. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Bejewelled sword from Hyderabad. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Bejewelled sword from Hyderabad. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Diamond turban jewel made for the Maharaja of Nawanagar. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Diamond turban jewel made for the Maharaja of Nawanagar. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Spinels on a necklace of cultured pearls belonging to Queen Elizabeth. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Spinels on a necklace of cultured pearls belonging to Queen Elizabeth. Photos courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A Museum shares a Mughal horde, some of it purloined in colonial times

London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A) is treating visitors to an Aladdin’s cave of jewels, dating back to the Indian Mughal era that gave us the Koh-i-Noor diamond and the glorious Taj Mahal.

Continuing into April, the exhibition “Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection” gathers 100 objects, from the Timur Ruby to a 70-carat Golconda diamond, from jewel-encrusted swords to turban ornaments.

Sheikh Hamad Bin Abdullah Al-Thani of the Qatari royal family owns most of the pieces, and Queen Elizabeth has loaned three others, including the fabled Timur Ruby – a set of huge chunks of spinel (a red stone mined in Badakhshan in central Asia) on a necklace of pearls. The pink hue of the spinels radiates off the pearls beautifully.

Timur, the great Turkish-Mongol conqueror of the 15th century, never owned it, and the stones are not ruby, but they are nonetheless spectacular. The set was taken from the Mughal treasury amid the British invasion. One of the spinels bears a tiny inscription to the Mughal emperor Akbar.

//

Also from the Mughal treasury are nephrite jade objects, including a golden dagger and scabbard set with rubies and emeralds from the late 16th century, and a wine cup made in 1607. The cup is decorated with fine Persian calligraphy. Pale nephrite jade came from Khotan on the Silk Road. Exhibition curator Susan Stronge described this as “arguably one of the best jade collections in the world”.

Turban decorations in enamelled gold with diamonds and spinels and an aigrette with fine, fluffy feathers in platinum studded with diamonds and sapphires attest to the opulence of the Indian emperors and the superiority of the imperial craftsmen.

A video demonstration of the ancient kundan technique – employed by the Indian goldsmiths of the imperial courts to set gemstones with highly refined gold – is inspiring enough to make viewers sign up for a jewellery course. The goldsmiths combined this technique with European-style enamelling to create exquisite pieces, like the turban with its front adorned with gemstones in kundan settings and the back of intricate enamel work. This dual technique is still used today in Jaipur and Bikaner.

The 70.21-carat Arcot II diamond from India’s Golconda mines – given to Queen Charlotte (consort to George III) in 1767 by the Nawab of Arcot – draws gasps.

India influenced jewellery design in Europe in the 1920s and ’30s, like those from Cartier and designers such as Paul Iribe. Traditional Indian forms became Art Deco. The appeal of “Bejewelled Treasures” thus becomes not just aesthetic but also historical, even the love stories behind some of the pieces. The display earning the biggest queues has a peacock brooch and hair ornament from French jewellery house Mellerio dits meller.

Jagjit Singh, Maharaja of Kapurthala, bought it in Paris in 1905 while en route to a royal wedding in Madrid. There, like in a fairytale, he fell in love with a 16-year-old dancer named Anita Delgado and presented it to her at their own wedding. It’s an exquisite gold, diamond and enamel peacock with blue, green and yellow enamelling for the upper body and long, delicate strands of gold feathers studded with diamonds. Delgado returned to India as the Sikh ruler’s fifth wife.

An emerald brooch began life as a decoration for one of the Kapurthala royal elephants. Delgado admired it and the maharaja promised it to her if she learned to speak Urdu. She earned it as a gift for her 19th birthday. The emerald was later set as a brooch in Paris, but Delgado often wore it as a bracelet, necklace or hair ornament.

Some of the treasures on view were spoils of war, looted by East India Company soldiers from imperial treasuries that changed ownership several times. One of them, a golden tiger’s-head finial from the throne of Tipu Sultan, Maharaja of Mysore in the southern state Karnataka, ended up in Windsor Castle.

Tipu Sultan was a thorn in the side of the British intent on seizing Mysore and its mineral riches. He was used to opulence and was known to fight with a sword encrusted with rare gems. A tough general who defeated the East India Company on five occasions, Tipu said he would rather live a day as a tiger than spend a lifetime as a sheep, and had the tiger as his emblem.

Tipu was killed defending his kingdom in the siege of Seringapaham in 1799. His hexagonal throne, bedecked in gold and gemstones, was broken up and stolen by the British soldiers. Surgeon-Major Pulteney Mein, an eyewitness to the plunder, wrote, “This gorgeous throne was barbarously knocked to pieces with a sledgehammer.”

Of the eight gold tiger-head finials decorating the throne, only three remain, one of which was auctioned in London in 2010 for 434,400 pounds (Bt26.1 million at today’s rate). Queen Elizabeth owns another and has loaned it for this exhibition.

Yet another stunning piece given to Queen Charlotte is a canopy decoration from Tipu’s throne, a depiction of the Huma bird of Persian lore with a long, upright tail like a peacock’s made of gold and decorated with precious stones. The neck is emeralds and the body diamonds and rubies.

For drooling purposes

“Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection” is part of the Victoria and Albert Museum’s India Festival ending on April 10.

Find out more at http://www.VAM.ac.uk.

 

An education in India

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/An-education-in-India-30281183.html

Mattana Pongsopon

Mattana Pongsopon

Cheaper fees and English-language curriculum make the subcontinent a popular schooling choice for Thais

One of the world’s fastest growing economies, India is justifiably proud of its education system, which today boasts more than 17,000 colleges, some 700 universities and well over a million schools spread across the subcontinent.

Fees are also very reasonable – about 30 per cent of those charged by international schools in Thailand and infinitely cheaper than the West – and India is thus attracting an increasingly high number of Thai students, all of them eager to improve their English-language skills while remaining in easy travel distance from home.

“Just as elsewhere in the world, parents in Thailand are keen to give their children the best education possible. For that reason, we are seeing a rising number of Thai students studying in international residential schools, colleges and universities in India. There is a real demand for an Indian education,” says Sanjeev Bolia, organiser of the Great India Education Fair, the ninth edition of which was held recently in Bangkok.

“An Indian education has long been seen as respectable and valuable; empowering students for future success and enabling them to gain a foothold on the competitive, global job market with well-paid career opportunities ahead.”

//

Chayarnithsarr Khanijor, an educational consultant for Thai students going to India, says she has sent thousands of Thai children and adolescents to India over the past 20 years.

“Most Thai students prefer to study in boarding schools in cities like Bengaluru, Chandigarh, Dehradun or Mussoorie. At the university level, the most popular subjects are computer science and IT, business management and engineering,” she says.

Indeed, several Thai students were more than happy to share their experiences of studying in India at the fair. While all admitted that living in India can be challenging, they also acknowledged that Indian education was a rewarding experience.

Prangthong Jitcharoenkul, received a scholarship to study at SBRR Mahajana First Grade College, which is affiliated with the University of Mysore in the south of India. She holds a Bachelor of Arts degree in History, Economics and Sociology.

“I’d always wanted to go to India though not necessarily for my education. When I was accepted by the university, I saw it as a good chance to improve my English because I think if I stayed in Thailand, my English would not be as good as it is now,” she says.

Prangthong shares her experiences and offers advice and tips to fellow Thais who are thinking of studying in India at her Facebook page “onlychildcansurviveinIndia”. She is also in the process of writing a book about Thais who have studied in India.

One of the biggest challenges she faced was understanding the Indian accent.

“It took a while to tune in but afterwards I had few problems. And if you can understand the Indian accent, then understanding other accents around the world becomes so much easier,” she says.

“Eating was also another challenge not because Indian food isn’t delicious – quite the contrary – but because it’s heavier than Thai cuisine. I put on a lot of weight during my first year but later managed to control my diet and avoid eating those late and sinfully rich dinners!”

There are, she says, major differences between the Indian and Thai education systems. “Exams are very subjective-oriented, requiring lots of writing, unlike the multiple choice questions and objective style exams in Thailand.

“If you are unable to write, be prepared to fail. I struggled with writing and it took about two years before I saw an improvement. By the time I reached my final year, I could speak English more naturally and scored the highest marks in some papers, graduating with a first class classification.

“Debates in the classroom were also highly encouraged. Initially I was afraid to confront people on issues I did not agree with as this tends to be frowned upon in Thai classrooms. However, India taught me that it’s fine to express different points of view. My teachers would get the whole class debating a given topic. At times it seemed that the students were going to kill each other as the debates were always loud and heated but once the bell rang, the students laughed and went for lunch together. In Thailand, it is not easy to express different opinions and some confrontations can lead to a physical fight!”

Prangthong’s words are echoed by Nathatai Klamkham, currently a stewardess for an international airline, who spent five years at an Indian boarding school.

“The Indian education is more focused on the student and how he or she will apply his/her knowledge to real life situations, unlike the Thai education system, which relies totally on rote learning. What I liked best about the Indian education system was being able to raise my hand and ask questions when I didn’t understand. That’s not done in Thai schools.”

School fees and the country’s proximity to Thailand were also major factors in Nathatai’s choice of India.

Mattana Pongsopon, currently an Academic Service and Research Assistant at Ramathibodi Hospital’s Advanced Diagnostic Imaging Centre, was sent to Kolkata for both her primary and secondary education and holds a BSc in Biotechnology from Presidency College in Bengaluru.

“My father sent me to India because he wanted me to study in an affordable, English-medium school in a safe environment. He also wanted me to be able to take care of myself and grow up to be tough,” she says.

“The Indian education system is more intensive and has a higher number of compulsory subjects like algebra, biology, chemistry and physics, while in Thailand, you only get to study these if you opt for the sciences. Even though there is a fair amount of rote and book learning, the focus is on understanding while in Thailand, it’s mostly about memorising,” Mattana adds.

Prangthong says India taught her that there are no shortcuts to success.

“I worked hard throughout three-year course. I made mistakes and it was my failures that led me to where I am today. India also taught me about life and people and not to give up.”

“Life is the most valuable thing I learnt from India,” says Mattana, adding,” India has all forms and shapes of life. I am who I am today because of India, which I am both proud and thankful for. I have learnt about helplessness, but not hopelessness. India has taught me that it doesn’t matter if you have a big heart; what’s important is to open up and reach out regardless of what you have.”

Prangthong says students heading to India must be open-minded. “I would recommend India to those who can accept the differences in people. Young people who are narrow minded and not ready to face new challenges or simply unable to adjust to a new atmosphere would do better to stay home.”

And, she says, prospective students and their parents should not be put off by the stories of rape that have headlined the international news over the past couple of years.

“Such attacks can happen anywhere,” Prangthong says. “One has to take precautions. In India, women should dress modestly, avoid going to unlit and quiet streets and travel with large group of friends.”

LEARN MORE

    • The Great India Education Fair is held annually at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. It has booths from more than 70 institutions across India including boarding schools, all-girls, all-boys, universities and colleges
    • For details on scholarships, check with the Indian Council for Cultural Relations (ICCBangkok.org) or the Indian Embassy (IndianEmbassy.in.th).
    • Find out more at Facebook.com/|TheGreatIndiaEducationFairThailand.

 

Building up the Breuer

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/life/Building-up-the-Breuer-30281175.html

People look at works as part of the exhibition “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” during the press preview of the Met Breuer museum in New York./AFP

People look at works as part of the exhibition “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” during the press preview of the Met Breuer museum in New York./AFP

New York’s MET adds a third branch, moving works into “A Masterpiece of Mid-century architecture”

New York is adding to its glittering portfolio of art museums with a new gallery dedicated to modern and contemporary art – The Met Breuer, which opens with a retrospective of a little known Indian artist.

The gallery is housed in the modernist icon that Hungarian-born Bauhaus architect Marcel Breuer built in 1966 on Madison Avenue for the Whitney Museum of American Art, which last year moved downtown to a new site.

When the Breuer opens to the public on March 18, it will become the third site for the famed Metropolitan Museum of Art – the city’s most frequented museum. Last year it welcomed a record 6.3 million visitors to its Fifth Avenue address and Cloisters celebrating Medieval art in northern Manhattan.

“This is a masterpiece of mid-century architecture and we are going to be reactivating it with a new curatorial spirit,” Met director Thomas Campbell told reporters, calling it a “significant moment for the city.”

The project is the brainchild of billionaire philanthropist Leonard Lauder, the son of cosmetics legend Estee who has endowed the Met with millions of dollars to further its modern and contemporary art and scholarship.

His gifts plug a gap in the Met’s otherwise rich 5,000 year history of art, even if America’s cultural capital is already heaving with contemporary and modern art. Besides the Whitney and a host of smaller galleries, the Museum of Modern Art and the Guggenheim have some of the finest collections in the world.

The Met says the Breuer will compliment, rather than compete with, what’s already on offer by linking the present to its almost unparalleled historical archives.

“What our peers do is show modern and contemporary art in the context of the modern and contemporary. What the Met does, uniquely, is that we have the historical traditions that modern and contemporary artists are either embracing or reacting against,” Campbell says. It’s “a different experience,” he adds.

That history is on display in one of two inaugural exhibitions: “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” which showcases more than 190 works from the Renaissance to the present that have been seemingly or deliberately unfinished.

Nearly 40 per cent of the works come from the Met’s own collection and the rest is on loan from more than 100 lenders, including a Vincent van Gogh canvas from Helsinki and a Titian from the Czech Republic.

“I think people will come away from this exhibition very stimulated by the idea that they have been immersed in the world of making art,” says Andrea Bayer, curator in the department of European paintings.

The exhibition, which unites greats such as Rembrandt, Turner and Cezanne with abstract artists such as Jackson Pollock, draws keen parallels between the Old Masters, and the modern and contemporary world.

“They sometimes go off in a different, more conceptual direction but artists are still asking exactly the same questions,” Bayer says.

The other exhibition is the first retrospective in a US museum of Indian artist Nasreen Mohamedi, looking back on her delicate, meditative art from the beginning of her career in the 1960s until her death in 1990. Born in Karachi, which is today in modern-day Pakistan, she grew up and worked in India, but remained obscure throughout her lifetime.

“It’s a giant step for us,” says Kiran Nadar, a prominent Indian art collector who owns several Mohamedi works in the exhibition and who six years ago opened the Kiran Nadar Museum of Art New Delhi.

“Indian art is perceived as very figurative, so to see abstraction in the purest sense coming out of India is going to be an eye opener for people here,” she adds. “I think it’s going to start a new recognition of Indian art.”

Brinda Kumar, a research assistant at the Met, says there was a need to embrace movements of modernism beyond the Western canon.

“I think exhibitions like this really help in doing that,” she says. “I think people are curious to know, ‘well what was going on there? What is going on there?'”